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I have a '98 Escort and the leads like to corrode rather quickly. I have to clean them (negative lead especially) every couple of months or else it will occasionally do as you described. As long as the leads are clean, though, I have no problems with it. :sick:
When you turn the car's ignition from the "off" position to "accessory," does the radio come on? Do you have lights? How about the "on" position?
Did you find out what the reason for you problem was?
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
If the latter, it may simply be a connection issue, such as excess corrosion on the battery cable, a loose/dirty connection, etc. Try cleaning the negative terminal and cable connections, then reattach and try again. If that makes no difference, try tapping on your starter with a mallet or hammer a couple of times, then attempt to start......
Anything?
My car got jumped a while back and things got connected backwards so had to replace the 100amp fuse and get a new battery. The harness issue and the Dead radio are the only unresolved issues, may be related some how?
I'm including a picture so you can see the harness I'm talking about, though the pic isn't of mine. It's just for identification.
Thanks in advance for any time and replies.
How long does the battery take to drain out?
Can a missing defroster fuse be the cause? It's the only thing "off" I can find.
So, things not being connected would not cause this. Something is on and not turning off when it should. You could start pulling fuses and see when it stops; that should help narrow it down. Start with the main fuse, then go from there. A multimeter would be very helpful here.
When you say multimeter. I have a little gadget that clips on to a grounding spot and the pen like meter lights up if there's power. How would I use that to test certain fuses?
A multimeter is a testing device with a dial on the front that lets you select a variety of options, from resistance (measures ohms), direct current, alternating current, etc. Hence the name. It uses prongs like the tester you have, but has either a needle gauge if analog or a digital readout. You can go spendy to very cheap ($20-25), but either type should do the trick for your purposes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter
Lou
Disconnected my jumper cables and had a look at my fuses. They all seem in tact, other than a little corrosion on the top. Tried turning my headlights on to see if they would be dim, indicating a low battery or a cabling problem, but they were fine.
Tried starting the car again for the hell of it. As usual, no sound. Was planning to start it with the headlights on to see if they went out. As soon as I turned the headlights back on, my service engine soon light started fluttering and there was a loud clicking from the vicinity of the fuse box in the engine compartment. Turned the lights back off. Pulled the fuses for the headlamps, which were both in tact. Replaced the fuse for the right side and tried turning them on again. This time no sound.
Not sure what is going on here.
It sounds to me like your starter is seized up. Mine (1998 Escort LX w/ 2L) did a similar thing over time. I was convinced it was something in the battery or cables, but no, it was the starter.
The clicking/fluttering of lights, etc., that you experienced sounds, to me, like a low amperage situation that is probably due to the excessive draw from the starter trying (unsuccessfully) to turn over. You wouldn't get that with just having the power on for the car, but could get that when trying to actually start it.
I would suggest trying to tap on the starter body with a hammer while having someone holding the key in the "start" position, but the starters on these cars are tucked away well enough that you likely would not be able to get a hammer on it (nor have the space to actually tap it).
The starter is a $100+ part, so it would really be worth your time to have the issue confirmed by a shop. Replacing the starter is simple enough, but quite challenging due to clearances. You'll need to take the battery and tray out of the car, as well as work very carefully from the passenger side to snake your arm in behind the engine (under the intake manifold) to access the starter and one bolt.
Once I replaced mine, though, I could not remember a time when the car started so easily! I'm sure my battery was thankful, too!
"Hello All,
I have a 94 Ford Escort Wagon, 1.9L Automatic with the strangest problems. When I turn off the car and remove the key, the heater (A/C) blower and the windshield wipers will continue to operate. Also, the A/C button will light if pushed while fan is blowing, as when the car is running. These issues are not major; we just have to remember to turn everything off whenever we park the car.
I have checked the fuses and have even replaced the ignition switch with no luck. Has anyone seen anything like this or know where to start looking? I can’t see a common component or relay that would cause this issue. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.
-Bill"
I realize this is an old post but I thought I'd ask anyway whether you were able to resolve this? I have a 1995 Escort with the same issue (wipers and blower motor still have power after key is turned off; nothing else has power, radio, etc.)
Thanks.
You should be able to get it started on a roll, though. If pushing it doesn't work, try pulling it (w/ another car) at up to 15-20 mph. Quick clutch pops should spin the engine enough to get it to fire, assuming you have the key in the "run" position! :P
So, yes your battery is dead. Now. But, that doesn't mean the battery is the problem (e.g., it might be okay once recharged). Charge the battery, start the car, run some simple diagnostics on it (use a multi-meter to check the voltage and current while off and while running). Your volts should be ~12.5 while off (with full battery) and ~14 while running. If it is not near 14 or is at or lower than in the off state, your alternator isn't charging it. That's when it's time to pull the alternator and have an auto supply store bench test it.
Checking the current draw while off and while running is useful for determining how much demand is being put on the battery while off and on the alternator while running. That information *may* be useful when determining what alternator to buy (assuming you will need to replace it).
fixing it.
To check fuses, there is a panel in the driver footwell area, just above the "dead pedal" on the left side, that includes most, if not all, of your interior functions. It is most likely a smaller one, like a 10A, but I don't know what it is called (and don't have the Haynes manual for it anymore, as I gave that to the new owner when I sold the car). If the abbreviated identifications on the panel don't give it away, you can pull each individually and look to see that it is good.
If it is blown bulbs, they are fairly easy to replace, but do require that you remove the bezel from around the steering column and instrument panel in order to access the panel to pull it out. If you can keep it attached to its cabling, all the better. The lights are connected to little "caps" in the back, and I think there are five of them. Just turn each a quarter turn for it to pop out, place a new bulb in it, then re-insert.
I have a '95 escort that I've been driving for the past few years, that's starting to have some electrical problems. I'll list the symptoms I know about and the timeline as best as I can remember.
Sometime a year or two ago the high beams stopped working. I can hold the flasher in and they work, but setting the column switch stick to high beam causes the lights to go off.
I've had sporadic issues the past 2 years with getting the car to start. Sometimes I would turn the key and it would crank to no avail. It always would eventually start. It usually needed 2-3 minutes of "rest" before I would try again and succeed.
Within the past 6 months or so I've had intermittent issue with the heater and wipers not turning on when the car starts, or just completely stopping while the car is running. They always either function or not function together.
About 3 months ago my car just died going down the road. It was like the entire car just lost power. Pulled it off and started it back up and it ran fine.
I've probably had the car die will driving happen 2-3 times since the first incident, but it's always started back up. Hell sometimes it would coast for a few 100 feet and then it would power back up. When the car dies, all the lights,radio,wipers, etc still work, just like the engine itself momentarily lost power.
This morning it died again while driving. I coasted off the road and started it up again. I got a little further down the road when it did it again. Managed to coast to a safe spot to try and start it again. Except this time it wouldn't start back. I tried it 5-10 times over 10 minutes and it never started. Sounded like it was going to a few times, but never did. After the 10 minutes or so, now it would even crank or click when I turn the ignition. Heater,wipers, radio, etc all work, but nothing from the starter, just silence.
My very novice thought (with some help talking with more experienced friends) is there is a short in my steering column and/or the ignition. But with it not even trying to start this morning, I'm not sure now.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I doubt there's much anyone can do from afar. And, even close up it can often be more trouble than its worth. The only vehicle I ever scrapped while it was in generally good order was a vehicle that had electrical gremlins. It was either get rid of it, or drive the damned thing off a cliff! LOL
The shutting down, and now the no-start won't crank will have to be figured out in the order of get the engine to crank again, whether you simply depleted the battery, or maybe even damaged the starter trying to get this to fire up. Then someone can work to figure out why it quit. Everything is in play with that part at this point since there hasn't been any testing done.
somehow that makes me more frustrated.