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Looking to purchase 2015 Honda CR-V EX
hondaready
Member Posts: 3
I am looking to purchase a 2015 CRV EX CVT and would appreciate any and all suggestions/comments from those who are considering one or recently purchased.
Price you paid, color selection, etc.
Price you paid, color selection, etc.
0
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http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/30664/honda/cr-v/2015-honda-cr-v-prices-paid-and-buying-experiences#latest
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
So do I start trying to get them to come down off that price? To get the color I want they want me to put a $500 deposit down to get it from another dealership...Is that normal? Is the Nav system worth it? I use Google maps on my phone and it works just fine...Heard the Nav system doesn't even work using Google maps...
Oh, last question...I have a 2006 Honda Pilot to get rid of...Do you mention that AFTER you negotiate the deal for the new car? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
It's generally better to get quotes from multiple dealers. Can't tell, maybe you have.
Deposits are mostly intended to make you think you have a deal, and thus you quit shopping the competing dealers. With that understanding, it's okay to put a deposit down, so long as it's refundable (and you have a piece of paper saying so). But really, the only time a dealer should demand a deposit is when you are ordering a car that will be hard to sell if you back out of the deal (like a purple convertible in Bangor). A CR-V will be easy to sell to someone else if you back out.
Nav systems are overpriced (still) compared to Garmins and map apps. So no, not really worth it, but an in dash system is still kind of nice to have. I doubt that having one will help the resale much. But it may be bundled with other stuff you want.
Some people like to hide the trade until the last minute, but I like to go ahead and mention it and just treat it as a separate transaction. If the dealer won't give me my price, I'm okay with selling it myself. Most people want to avoid that hassle though, in which case you just walk and keep shopping until you get your numbers.
You can get a price for the Pilot from CarMax and use that number as your baseline for the trade-in. Then if you otherwise like the deal you hammer out, you can buy the new car and simply sell the Pilot to CarMax.
If you are financing, it can help to get pre-approved at your bank or credit union. Dealers make money packaging financing and most will be able to beat your rate (getting pre-approved keeps them honest).
So I think I'm gonna try and negotiate the new car first, but great idea about looking at Car Max for base prices. My 2006 Honda Pilot has 215k (which is why I'm buying another Honda..Haha!), so I hate to sell it to someone privately...I have no idea what is coming down the pike in repairs..
Thanks Again for your help
And yeah, there's all kinds of places in a deal that the dealer can make money, including low-balling a trade-in. That's why you need to keep the trade-in transaction separate from the new car price, and be willing to walk out and look for a better deal. That's your biggest advantage - you're the one with the money.
OTD is a "magic" number because when you ask for the OTD price, you're telling the dealer you want to know the bottom line number. You can figure out your trade value, a good price for the CR-V, and the taxes and registration. Once you have your OTD number you can negotiate that one number with the dealer, instead of arguing over the line items like doc fees or specious junk like nitrogen, pin stripping, etching, paint protection, etc.
If the OTD number changes when you go to pay, walk out. You may even be able to get to that point without walking in, just by working the phones and emails. The dealer will want to see your trade-in at some point though, and some dealers still haven't learned how to do business that way. More reason to get multiple quotes and ignore the unresponsive dealers.
Oh, different prices at different dealers. Who knows, some are hungrier than others. Some may have met sales quota so don't need to discount cars to make that extra profit. That quota/bonus system is one reason why you'll see cars selling for under invoice btw. Some dealers are so "wealthy" they can afford to buy their inventory outright and not have to pay interest - they get to keep the manufacturer's holdback that way.
Please keep us posted on how it goes!