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I can put a jumper to the fuel pump and it starts and runs fine. I have electricity going through the fuel relay. Is there someithing I need to reset? Is there some sensors between the fuel relay and the fuel pump?
There's a couple thoughts come to mind though. I have seen in a number of vehicles where the fuel pump is controlled (turned on or off) by the engine computer. Since you replaced your battery, I'm wondering if somehow you lost the brains to the computer and you need the dealership to reload/reprogram it. The thing that leaves me a little suspicious that his couldn't be the case however, is your statement that the vehicle will run if you provide power to the fuel pump. I guess if it runs poorly this still might be the problem, but if it runs fine then it probably is not the problem.
The second thing that comes to mind is that many vehicles have a relay which turns the fuel pump off if the car has been in an accident or rolls over, to prevent a fuel leak from a broken gas line with the electric fuel pump just pumping away. I know all of my vehicles have this feature in one way or the other (some by circuitry in the engine computer, others with a standalone function board), but they are newer than a 98 so I don't know when mfg's started putting this in vehicles. Owners manuals usually will have a writeup which explains how to reset this, if the relay is triggered. Perhaps if your vehicle has this function as well, that somehow the battery reset triggered this to occur.
The last thing that comes to mind is to check ALL of the other fuses with an ohmmeter, to make sure there isn't some other fuse that blew while the battery was being jumped or replaced.
Sorry I can't help you with any specific Grand Prix info.
Hope you don't smoke. Did you ever think that a gasoline smell could be gasoline fumes, or unburned gasoline?
Try taking your car to the dealership, or a competent garage who work on Honda's. They will check the engine computer and read the error codes. That will give them an idea of what to fix. You may have ruined your catalytic converter because you didn't get it fixed when the error light first came on.
Don't know where you live that there isn't a Honda dealership, but worst case there are certainly mechanic / auto vehicle repair shops that work on Honda's.
It has been said, when the CEL goes on, it reflects a problem with the emission system so now I don't give it any importance.
First of all, you have to say the year, make, model, engine size, and mileage so that people can get an idea of the type of car we are dealing with. Second, fuel injection cleaning is a waste of money. The best thing to clean your fuel injectors is to go down to your local auto parts store [Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Napa, etc..] and buy yourself a bottle of a STP Fuel Injector cleaner. Do this once or twice a year.
Third, why did you do a tune-up? And what parts were changed? I am willing to bet that the mechanic that sold you the "fuel injection cleaning" ruined your O2 sensor [also known as an oxygen sensor]. I can also tell you that you "may" have needed a tune-up [the key word is may] and you did "not need" the fuel injection cleaning service. I will try to help you if you want. You can e-mail me with as much info as you can.
Don't take your car back to the shop or mechanic that did your fuel injection cleaning. Take your car down to Pep Boys or AutoZone and they wil connect a special scanner to your car for free. They will tell you the code number and which part is bad. The special scanner is also known as a "code reader". Also if you want you can buy one of these code readers for about $70-90. You can buy the cheapest one, you do not need the most expense one. The code readers can be used on both imports and domestic cars from 1995-2005. :shades:
Disconnect the Negative battery cable from the battery and reconnect it the next morning. This has been known, on some cars, to reset the computer.
There is an algorithm in the cars computer, which will continue to track all of the sensors, and after so many starts and miles driven without any error conditions it will turn the light off. A month should have been plenty of time to reset itself.
If the error doesn't clear, it can stop you from passing inspection if that is one of your state requirements.
Take it back now. If you wait much longer they will treat it as a 'new' problem, and charge you for diagnosis time.
Will get code checked soon. Have you seen this before? Thank you.
Though, misses at idle may mean the engine is dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust, and hence into the cat. I think that can kill a cat pretty quickly.
As you look at the engine, the cylinders are:
6 5
4 3
2 1
# 1 cylinder on the distributor cap is the middle one on the right side of the cap.
Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2
2008 chevy malibu LS with 78000 miles 3.5L V6 engine...any advice
Smog shop said O2 sensors ok and to replace the left and right Cat's which I did but now The codes have reappeared the next day
PLEASE HELP....!
Any ideas? Got me to work, but it's a 20 mile drive back home.
Are you by any chance in the San Francisco area? I could send you somewhere.
Do you remember the number of the code you read? Just because the code refers to the 02 sensor that doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad--it only means the 02 sensor is reacting to some irregularity--you could for instance have a catalytic converter problem or a wiring problem.
I have this p0732 code. just recently got the oil pan and seal replaced due to severel leak. How can I clear this code?
Something more serious with the transmission if you're not.
A couple months ago, I was travelling & the hybrid drive warning light came on - I would be passing by the dealer, so I called to see if I could stop in & have them read the code. They read it & said that it was a possible problem with the CVT drive, but since it was intermittent, wondered if it was just a sensor problem. They already had two other FEH's in the shop waiting on parts, so they didn't want to schedule anything immediately.
Fast forward to mid-January. The hybrid drive warning light had intermittently come on & gone off for the last couple months, but this time, while I was driving (city stop & go) around town, the hybrid drive warning light came on, shortly followed by an alternating complete loss of power to a surge in acceleration. I tried to hobble the vehicle back to my office (this is a work vehicle), and the "Master Vehicle Electrical Hazard Warning" light came on, followed by my vehicle completely shutting down.
The vehicle was towed to the dealer, they checked the codes & replaced the throttle body & reprogrammed the PCM; called me & told me it was ready to pick up. I arranged for a ride down & before I left the parking lot, it was doing THE EXACT SAME THING! Now the dealer is telling me that they need to replace the Shifter Lever Assembly, based on the "new" trouble code (which they charged me $75 for).
The dealer claims that the only code they initially found (when it was towed to them) was one indicating the throttle body problem. They claim no other codes were present. Now the code is for the shift lever assembly. Same symptoms, two completely different root causes?
On to the question: How long does computer hold error codes? I have a hard time believing that they didn't pick up the "old" CVT error code when they were initially assessing the code that led them to replacing the throttle body. I have expressed my extreme dissatisfaction with the service manager, but he stands by his claim that: "the only code present was the throttle body code". Am I being screwed?
Thanks!
That "depends" on what code is setting, and the frequency of the failure events can play a role. Most codes will self clear from the long term memory after fifty re-starts if the problem doesn't occur again. Some codes never clear until they are commanded to. The real fun starts when some tests that would generate another code are blocked from running because of a code already in the system memory.
I have a hard time believing that they didn't pick up the "old" CVT error code when they were initially assessing the code that led them to replacing the throttle body
While it may not seem likely at first, another possible explanation explanation may have to do with the re-flash. There could be a criteria change for the shifter code generation and that may have gotten it to set easier. The throttle body problem is a common issue and yes, the car acts exactly as you described. Then again with the random failure, the code for the shifter may have self cleared.
I have expressed my extreme dissatisfaction with the service manager, but he stands by his claim that: "the only code present was the throttle body code". Am I being screwed
Probably not, but by now the tech is. When we diagnose a vehicle and the data and trouble codes only reveal one problem,( in this case the throttle body). And then for the period of time that the tech has the car, it gives him/her no other symptoms, what would any reasonable person do? Why they would fix what they found wrong, and STOP. Imagine the tech saying something like "The shifters cause a similar symptom, so I should just replace it right now too."
It's a pretty safe bet you'd be thinking that would be a rip-off, right?
When I work with any of these cars, I pull all of the codes from every computer on the car with the push of a single button. Then I open paint and paste the screen shot and store it in a folder under the customers name. While not every tech does this, I do it because these kinds of questions have arisen in the past, and when I can pull the screen shot up I have proof of exactly what was there when I started.
I often talk about consumers having a car that has a problem, but its not real bad so they keep driving it. Then a second problem occurs and it still isn't bad enough to get them to fix it. And then there is a third, and a fourth etc until one day when the car is so bad that they don't have a choice so they finally bring the car into a shop. The question now becomes, which problem is the one that got the car into the shop? How likely is the customer to be satisfied with the repair attempt if all of the problems are not found and solved? (in some cases, the customer doesn't even want all of the problems solved, that usually ends badly too when they come back with it still doing "the same thing") There are many times that the tech has to cut down some of the trees to see the forest.
The computer is constantly rechecking the car.
This has happened 3-4 times now.Has this happened to anyone else and I am guessing that it is not as significant as a constantly on check engine light.
This is for an 2000 Sienna XLE.Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this?
It would be interesting for you to log when the light goes on--that is, what are you and your car doing at the time?
Probably you'd want to have the computer scanned anyway---if this is a misfire, it's going to get worse over time I'd guess.
Bad battery right off the shelf (not charged up)
Shift lever not actually in Park or Neutral
Neutral safety switch is defective (switch that prevents a car from starting in Drive)
Bad battery cables, from positive to starter motor, or negative to ground
Bad starter motor or starter motor relay