Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
does anybody know what this leaking could be. It is for sure not oil, it is more like water. The fluid spot is located on the right side of the car, close to the wheel. Any idea if this could be coolant fluid or windshield washer fluid. Just by smelling at it, I can't distinguish :-(
Regards
Lukas
If it's by the front passenger tire, it could be your coolant since the overflow reservoir is on this side.
This past Sunday, driving the car, have about a half tank of gas and gauge is working properly. After shopping and getting back in the car, start it up and the gauge reads 3/4. Fill the tank up and now the gas gauge needle is 1/8 past Full. My wife's driven the car 135 miles thus far and the gauge is still reading "F".
Did the float get stuck? Anyone have a quick fix to this or should I continue to rely on watching the odometer to know when to fill the car up. I had this problem a few years back and then the gauge started working correctly again.
Weird stuff. Thanks.
nice hint, I will try it. It is on the front passenger tire, and the level of the coolant reservoir is pretty low.... But I couldn't find the leak so far.... Do you know about some potential places or hot spots where it always leaks?
Regards
Lukas
I actually had the dealer check it out for me and NOTHING IS WRONG! Three different people checked it out and they said I have no leaks and everything looks great! Nice and tight!
They told me it could just be a characteristic, then they proceeded to tell me that they could pull up a $60K lincoln and find something they don't like. They also mentioned that Taurus/Sables have well-built struts and CV's. Much better actually than Toyota or Honda. (Toyota I knew from experience with a '98 Camry having poor struts and the numerous Honda owners I hear of having CV replacements).
To tell you the truth, it doesn't really bother me and as far as I am concerned, these tires make the car ride firm and handle great! I can take curves 5-10 MPH faster than my previous tires.
Not to mention, I only paid $309.44 for (4) 215/60/16 GT Radial Champiro 128 H-rated performance all-season tires. That includes lifetime rotation, lifetime balancing, lifetime free flat repair, and road hazard. Comparing everywhere else, that was a good price for type of tire.
So, nothing wrong. YAY!
Thanks!
- Alex
I bought my 2002 Mercury Sable used. Everything went fine for the first few months, then the transaxle light came on while I was on the highway. When I stopped and shut the car off and restarted it, the light was gone. But next time on the highway it was back again. After this it didn't happen again until about 2 months later. The same thing happened twice, both times on the highway at about 72 MPH. I really don't feel like sticking a bunch of money into this, but love the car. Any ideas?
Need help with '95 Sable with 4 wheel ABS disk brakes. I replaced the rear calipers since I could not move the pistons back to reload the pads. Bled them, no problem, and all seemed to be fine.
But, when I drive the car the rear disks now heat up significantly so I believe the calipers are dragging. (I am pretty sure they dragged at some point in the past but never really investigated). I say heat up significantly because the rears get hotter than the front and on a front wheel drive car that seems odd to me, what with most of the weight up front.
I searched this forum looking for answers and have ruled out the MC as the fronts work great, and with the crossover plumbing, I assume one of those would be dragging. (Both rears drag)
That leaves.... the proportioning valve and the load sensitive valve on the rear linkage. Correct? I've read others talking about deteriorating brake lines causing rear brakes to drag.... How, exactly, does that happen? Anyway, is there any other culprit lurking that could cause this problem?
Any help is greatly appreciated otherwise the next stop is the dealer.... (shudder)
My comment is that brakes get hot, really hot, and that's how you should expect them to be after the car is driven.
Are you sure that the brakes are actually dragging ? Can you rotate the wheel when it is off the ground ? Do they smoke or something ? what evidence do you have that the brakes are dragging ?
Also, You haven't set the parking brake too tight have you ?
Ok sorry for the sarcasm, but in addition to the brakes getting hot (trust me, they're HOT)
1) The right rear wheel "sings" at highway speeds (>50mph). Not all of the time, but often, and it stops when I tap the brake.
2) When cold, I can rotate the rear wheels, but not as freely as the fronts
3) No smoking but one can easily smell them
4) As for the parking brake, the left side was sticking so I disco'd the cable while I await a replacement. The right side operates freely.
5) Mileage is down
Other than that, I generally feel the car, after having been driven a while ( I have a 37 mile commute through a major city ) accelerates poorly, not that it ever did accelerate great....... but you get my point.
I have three problems if you can help:
1. After recently changing the fuel pump due to (high speed) stalling, there is a noticeable loss in power. The car idles at a what seems like a lower rpm and the car accelerates much slower from stop. I've checked the fuel pressure and it's at 42 psi so that's not the problem.
2. A kick is felt as the gear changes from what I guess is 2nd to 3rd when turning a corner. This may be related to the slow acceleration from stop (see 1) too . I'm guessing that the transmission is going again and maybe the air-bypass valve needs a clean/replacement. If the transmission is going, is there anything that can be done prior to total meltdown to prevent a complete rebuild?
3. The Antilock light is stuck on. Initially, it would go on during a drive around and then reset to off when the engine was switched off. It would come on again during the next drive around etc. Eventually it stayed on.
I've heard that the antilock light can indicate that the charging circuit is dying (people have reported that sometimes the antilock light coming on preceeds the check engine/battery light coming on by weeks/months). My alternator failed recently and was replaced, so I wonder if the antilock light problem has been fixed, but the computer hasn't reset. Anyone know how to reset it (not the OBDI but the Antilock brakes computer)? Also, anyone know how to get the codes off from the antilock computer and (importantly) where to find a list of what ABS codes mean?
Thanks in advance for your help
P.S. I know the quick solution is buy another car, but I can't afford much above $2000. My Taurus is pretty much at that value right now.
I have a 1999 Ford Taurus SE and right now it has mechanical climate controls (you know the dials). I got a new unit on e-bay that has automatic electronic climate controls and I want to install it in my car. Of course the hookups are not the same, which is my problem. The only cable that will hookup to it is the one that also controls the audio functions. The controls will power up but they will not ACTUALLY control the climate control system because there is supposed to be another wire that goes to it.
I called up the Ford people and they said nothing can be done, but im adventerous and dont really care if I have to tear some stuff apart to install this thing. So if anyone has every done this before or heard of this thing before that would be very helpful. Thanks!!!
Did you try using the tool required to rotate the piston back down the parking brake jackscrew built into the caliper? Did you verify that the slots in the pistons lined up with the pins on the back of the inboard pads when installing?
"I've read others talking about deteriorating brake lines causing rear brakes to drag.... How, exactly, does that happen?
The flex hoses deteriorate internally, causing a flap of rubber to separate and form a one way check valve in the hose. Pretty common on that era Taurus. Easy to diagnose, raise the vehicle, apply and release the brake pedal, check for free rotation of the wheel. If tight to turn, crack open the bleeder screw to releive any residual pressure. If the wheel now turns freely, suspect a bad hose.
Any idieas?
The next thing we are wondering is if there could be a hidden fuse someplace or if the master control in the door could be dead.
Anyone had any experience with this?
But as you can imagine, I was right in the middle of the street at that point, stuck, in park! Couldn't go anywhere. Had to wait for a tow truck, which had to draggggg me onto the flatbed and take me to the dealer.
Check tire pressure for one thing and pump 'em up a few pounds.
Also, if you use AC you will lose at least 10% fuel mileage.
Also "count your shifts"---make sure the transmission is shifting into overdrive...
The engine has a slight miss at idle but cuts out off and on at high speed. It is like the engine dies and restarts in an instant. The "check engine" light comes on after about 5 minutes of highway travel but clears when engine is turned off.
I need to know why the check light is coming to hopefully troubleshoot. Any ideas?
How can I determine why th eligh tis coming on?
All hoses appear to be on and I can't find any loose connections
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Hello, I am having the same problem with my 1995 Mercury Sable as of this morning. I would like to know what is the cause for this problem? And is this a expensive repair also? Please update me about this situation.
dpookie37@yahoo.com
Thanks
Automatic Transaxle Assembly
Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
To remove:
1. Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
2. Remove the battery and battery tray. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
3. Detach the transaxle harness and the Transmission Range (TR) sensor connectors.
4. Remove the shift cable actuator fitting (cable retaining clip) and one retaining nut and disconnect the shift cable from the shift cable bracket on the transaxle.
5. Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines.
6. For the 3.0L OHV engines, remove the four upper transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts and one transaxle-to-engine stud.
7. For the 3.0L and 3.4L (DOHC) engines, remove five transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts.
8. Install two engine lifting brackets on the engine assembly.
9. Install a suitable engine support device.
10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
11. Loosen the transaxle oil pan retaining bolts and drain the transaxle fluid into a suitable container.
12. Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
13. Remove both halfshafts.
14. Detach the four Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
15. Remove three bolts and seven nuts securing the converter Y-pipe assembly and remove from the vehicle.
16. Detach the two starter motor connectors, then remove the starter.
17. Remove one bolt and one stud securing the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the transaxle.
18. For the OHV engine, remove one bolt and the transaxle housing cover.
19. Support the rack and pinion assembly using wire attached to the strut and spring assembly to hold it in position. Remove two rack and pinion assembly retaining nuts from the subframe.
20. Remove two lower control arm-to-ball joint retaining nuts and separate the lower control arms from the steering knuckles and ball joints.
21. Remove the retaining nuts from the front engine support insulators (mounts) at the subframe.
22. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link retaining nuts at each end of the sway bar and separate the links from the sway bar.
23. Remove the engine and transaxle support insulator through-bolts from the subframe.
24. Place a suitable transmission jack, using a suitable subframe adapter under the subframe and support the subframe.
25. Remove the four subframe-to-body retaining bolts. Carefully lower the subframe and set aside.
26. Place a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent, under the transaxle and support the transaxle assembly. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
27. For the OHV engine, remove one lower engine-to-transaxle bolt.
28. For the DOHC engine, remove the four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts.
29. Remove the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
30. Remove three bolts and two nuts securing the rear engine support to the transaxle and remove the rear engine support.
31. Remove one bolt from the right engine mount brace, then slowly lower the transaxle from the vehicle.
To install:
Flush the transaxle cooler lines thoroughly before installing the transaxle assembly.
32. If removed, place the transaxle assembly on a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
33. Slowly raise the transaxle assembly into place. Align the torque converter studs with the appropriate holes in the flywheel and engage the transaxle housing to the engine dowel pins.
34. Install one bolt in the right engine mount brace and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
35. Install the rear engine support to the transaxle and install three bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
36. Install the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts and tighten to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).
37. For the OHV engine, install one lower transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
38. For the DOHC engine, install the four lower transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
39. Place the subframe on High Lift Transmission Jack 014-00210 or equivalent, using a suitable subframe adapter and raise the subframe into position.
40. Install the subframe insulators, if removed and loosely install four subframe-to-body bolts.
41. Install a 3/4 inch (19mm) outside diameter pipe or similar tool into the front left subframe and body alignment holes and align the holes. Slightly tighten the front left subframe-to-body bolt.
42. Repeat the subframe alignment procedure on the front right subframe and body alignment holes. Slightly tighten the right subframe-to-body bolt.
43. Check the left alignment holes again and adjust if necessary.
44. After the subframe alignment is complete, tighten all four subframe-to-body bolts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm).
45. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the following:
* Engine and transaxle support insulator-to-subframe bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)
* Sway bar link-to-sway bushings and nuts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm)
* Rack and pinion-to-subframe nuts to 84-113 ft. lbs. (113-133 Nm)
* Front engine support insulator-to-subframe nuts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm)
* Ball joint-to-lower control arm nuts to 51-67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm), using new nuts
* For the OHV engine: transaxle housing cover bolt to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm)
* Starter motor bolt and stud to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm)
* Converter Y-pipe three bolts and seven nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm)
* For the OHV engine: four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and one upper transaxle-to-engine stud to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
* For the DOHC engine: five transaxle-to-engine bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
* Shift actuator cable fitting nut to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm)
46. Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.
47. If the transaxle is empty of transaxle fluid, add several quarts of MERCON or equivalent transaxle fluid to the transaxle.
48. Start the engine and continue to fill the transaxle until the correct level is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation.
Whenever the vehicles subframe is removed or lowered, the wheel alignment should be checked.
49. Check the front end alignment.
50. Road test the vehicle and check the transaxle for proper operation.
Please help. Has this happened to anyone else?