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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • snugglbondsnugglbond Member Posts: 4
    We have a 95 SHO 3.2L v6 which has been in the shop most of the time since mid-March. It turns off at any speed, highway or side street or just idling. They have replaced 3 ignition control modules, the water pump, the fuel pump and fuel injector system, including all other related parts, the crank and cam sensors, and the EGR valve system. No luck yet. The dealer working on it can't figure it out, nor can the engineers. The car isn't even at 100,000mi yet. Suggestions???
    Thanks!
    Tracey
  • 20432043 Member Posts: 2
    My Mercury Sable had similar problem. First dealership insisted problem could not be fixed. Second dealership (Aero Ford, Cobleskill, NY) had bright young man Heath Link who fixed the problem in 10 seconds by performing WDS Diagnostic and reprogramming the neutral spin cycle.
  • shadetree33shadetree33 Member Posts: 6
    Hello all,

    Need help in diagnosing a bad vibration in the frontend. It seems to happen when you apply the brakes while slowing down from a long distance. I've only had the car for a year (92 Taurus LX w/89k and yes the infamous 3.8L engine that hasn't blown the head gaskets yet) Anyhow, I've recently bought two new tires for the front had them balanced twice and installed new rotors and pads. I looked at the suspension and it looked okay, no broken or loose parts? Also, lately the brake pedal seems to stick, any news on this problem as well as the vibration would help.

    Thanks
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    I am not a mechanic but here is my guess.
    If the vibration occurs only when braking then it could it be a sticking caliper piston or the caliper assembly does not slide smoothly on the guide pins. The sticking brake pedal may be a symptom of the caliper malfunction or it needs lubrication or maybe master cylinder acting up.
    Is the floor mat restriction the brake pedal movement? Did you flush and bleed the brake system with new fluid?
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    Worn wheel bearings and bad ball joints can make vibrations also.
  • shadetree33shadetree33 Member Posts: 6
    Well Bobs5,

    I really appreciate the info, the problems with the vibration are tolerable. I didn't mention the fact that I just had the tranny rebuilt less than a year ago. Therefore, money is tight tight and more tight. I should take it to a professional shop but can't afford it right now. The Taurus was supposed to be my wife's car, but it had so many intermittent problems that she hated driving it to work. So it became my car. I've always been a ford truck man. A few Rangers and an Aerostar. They've always been good vehicles for me. The Taurus was the first and last front wheel drive Ford I will ever own. I'd sell it, but have too much money tied up in the Trans to just give it away. Besides the word is out about these early models Taurus' and the trouble they bring, i.e. bad trannys, head gaskets and A/C systems. So, who want's one?

    Anyhow, I'll stop whining. Thanks for the advice and I'll check a few things on your list that I haven't already checked. I'm hoping that someone else out there has the same symptoms with their Taurus and can save me a lot of grief trying to trouble shoot this thing without spending a lot of money.

    Thanks
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    I know how you feel, cars can be a big money pit.
    I have owned a few fords before too. all used vehicles.

    1963 falcon - In my opinion the best ford I owned.
    My first car, and had a 73 maverick 6 cly engine in it. routine maintenance.
    No problems at all. Until the accident...darn it.

    1983 ranger - 2.0l 4 cyl engine, 4 speed manual. I think a dozen hampsters would have been a stronger power plant.
    Repairs.. Radiator, Rear wheel bearing , vacuum brake booster, timing belt broke in the winter of course -5 degrees(huh- whats a timing belt?) at least i was still in driveway, a year after timing belt the belt tensioner blew apart. left me stranded. And a bunch of other annoying things going bad. Nickle and dime me to death.
    Gave up when it failed inspection for smoke.
    Fix Or Repair Daily!!!!!!!
    overall...not very impressed at all.

    1983 ltd station wagon - annoying serpentine belt that always squeals, tranny that seemed to constantly search for gears, v6 engine seemed to run rough even with full tune-up. a/c needed recharge. Accident totalled it.
    overall... not toooo bad, could be better.

    I currently have a 1986 plymouth reliant, 2.2l 4cly, 5 speed manual tranny. Bought it in 1990 with 55k on the odometer for $1000. It has 145k now.
    No "major" problems, never left me stranded (unlike the ranger).
    Minimal maintenance performed. I thought this was going to be a "temporary" car when i got it. It replaced the LTD which was totalled in accident.
    Repairs...Leaky radiator, heater core(this was worst problem),rear coil springs(sagging), windshield (big limb came down while driving...ouch!) Takes a lickin and keeps on tickin. The rust monster has a hold of it now, will replace during this coming year.
    Overall..EASY to work on, great gas mileage, small repairs.

    All cars had routine items like exhaust system, tires, brakes, battery, etc.

    Go for another ford??? I don't know, very leery to try.

    Enough whining for now.
    Good luck with your taurus
  • whullingerwhullinger Member Posts: 2
    Dirty connectors on the MAF sensor can cause stalling. To check, disconnect (and clean if necessary) the MAF sensor connection when the car stalls. If the car starts back up, that's probably the problem. Extreme cases may require replacement of the connectors.
    Aftermarket chip connection Another cause of stalling if the car is equipped with an aftermarket chip, is faulty or deteriorated connections between the chip and the card in the computer. This can be fixed by removing the chip, cleaning the contacts, and reinstalling the chip.
    MAF Connector and/or Speed Sensor Lee Hassig was experiencing this kind of stalling:
  • hazeltonhazelton Member Posts: 1
    I have been looking for a new car for the past month and have narrowed it down to the Taurus or Century. The Century has almost 4,000 miles on it and was a Driver Ed car so I'm a little hesitant. For the same price I can get a Taurus SES with 27 miles. I like them both but now am hesitant from the negative remarks on the Taurus in particular. Are there any positive remarks out there or do we only respond when its something negative?
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Hello Linda,

    Well, this is the Maintenance and Repair conference, so it is natural that a Taurus topic here would be focused on Taurus problems.

    If you use the Topic Search feature on the left side of this page for Taurus and again for Century you should be able to find topics in our Sedans (or other) conferences that will probably give you a more balanced perspective.

    Also, I was wondering if you had discovered the Our Turn conference? It is devoted exclusively to women's automotive issues of all kinds. Town Hall is fortunate to have an automotive technician co-hosting it. She might have an opinion on one or both of these vehicles that I'm sure would be happy to share with you. If you'd like to check it out, you can click on that highlighted link to go there.

    Welcome to Town Hall! Good luck in your search and your purchase.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • johnnybravo2johnnybravo2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Taurus SE and with no major proplems....yet, I Have noticed that with the fuel gage when I start to get low on fuel about 1/4 a tank left the gage will drop almost instantly all the way to empty, the gas dummy light will come on then as you keep driving the gage will start to rise back up to where it should be. I don't think that it is a faulty gas gage because it works normal unless the fuel gets that low... Any similar experiences out there or has anybody heard of something like that.. Not very important but I am just wondering. Thank You.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    I recently sued Ford in small claims court for the 3.8 head gaskets in my 93 T-bird. The judge hasn't given a judgement yet (I am expecting it around Labor day). I'll post under topic 212 "Ford 3.8 head gasket..." when I find out how he rules. Should I win, I'll be glad to share the information I used in court.
  • rushing1rushing1 Member Posts: 5
    I have noticed the same issue with my fuel
    gauge. It sometimes (not every time) goes
    from 1/4 tank to empty with the dummy light on
    within 5 miles. Later the gauge comes back
    up to nearly 1/4 tank. At that time I add
    12 - 13 gal. to a 16 gal. tank.

    I have not become annoyed enough to take it
    to the dealer under warranty.
  • zslickzslick Member Posts: 11
    I have noticed similar occurances with our 98 Taurus SE. When the needle dips down, it happens almost always when the car is going uphill. When it returns to normal, the car is either level or going downhill. It sometimes happens at half full and drops almost to a quarter. I suspect the angle of the float hinge is the culprit.
  • johnnybravo2johnnybravo2 Member Posts: 4
    I appreciate all the info.
  • johnnybravo2johnnybravo2 Member Posts: 4
    Hello again, I have another question. I have a Red 99 Taurus SE and I have noticed the the paint on the front bumper and side mirrors is starting to come off. When I looked even closer I saw bubbles in the paint, fish eyes, and dirt, and also found areas where chips of paint had come off. I took it into the ford dealer, and they said that paint is not a ford problem, I said what are you talking about you are ford, I asked him if they don't stand behind their products, and he said that they do but they don't stand behind paint because it is a used car, (I bought it when is wasn't even a year old) he said that if I would have bought it when it was new that it would have been a different story. I said so if I would have bought the car new and the paint started coming off now like it is you would fix it, and he said that that is correct. I know that he is full of it, so I contacted sales person that sold me the car and he said that there is nothing that he can do. He said that ford can not afford to paint my bumper. (I just kind of laughed at him and left)
    So now.... has anybody been through this, or do you know what I should do? Thank You.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    You probably already figured it out, but on Fords, they have a safety circuit that cuts power to the fuel pump when jarred severely to prevent gas from pumping out in an accident.

    On a 86-95 Ford, check the left side of the trunk wall for an access to the safety switch. Press it back down and it reconnects the fuel pump.
  • agrilabsagrilabs Member Posts: 1
    I am probably going to buy a '99 Taurus program car with 20-25K miles on it. I will be driving it approx. 30K per year and am wondering if I should purchase an extended warranty from Ford for it to take me to 100K. Any comments are welcome.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    We have a whole conference that can be of assistance to you with this question. Just use the Conference scroll down choice on the left side of the page for "Warranty" and take a look at the topics there for an appropriate place to ask for assistance.

    Good luck.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • grdgrd Member Posts: 4
    Has anybody ever got money back from FORD for head gasket repair on 92 Tarus with 68000 mi.
  • mr_almr_al Member Posts: 9
    Hi Everyone, I bought a 93 Taurus GL w/ the 3.8L V6 engine and 108K miles on it. Owned it for 9 months now. I have invested some money in it for typical maintenance, (brakes, etc) I constantly had a problem with both the Engine light coming on and off and the oil lamp light coming on and off. I replaced the Oil Pressure switch and that cured one thing. The guy I bought the car from said that the Engine light was from the OXY sensors and not to worry about it. Said fine, well enough headaches with that, I shipped the car to Hawaii and found out that the rear sway bar wasn't even connected. In addition, I decided to have an engine diagnostics on the car, and they got such bad readings that changed, they feel that the computer may be going bad. I am starting to worry now. I know it has a clean title (thanks for carfax) but when I decided to "fix" the light for the "Check Engine" by removing the terminals on the bulb so it wont come on, I noticed that it wasn't the first time that the dashboard was apart. I am wondering if I got a car that was pretty banged up but salvaged and not totaled? It runs great w/ 118K miles on it, but am concerned about dumping anymore money into it. I know have to find out how to put these sway bars on (I am not a mechanic) Just asking you all. Should I keep it, or dump it? Thanks Al
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I'd say dump it. I bought a '90 Sable new, just sold it 2 months ago with 135,000 miles. I would have been ahead by selling it at 60k -75k, but I hung on, pouring more money into it -- transmission, brakes, struts, cv joint boots, a/c, on and on (luckily I had the 3.0 liter - no engine problems).
  • talisman4youtalisman4you Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Ford Taurus GL, and have a problem the following problem:
    The Turn signals & Hazard flashers do not work.
    The fuses appear to be fine
    Any thoughts?

    Thanx
    geo
  • hughiem38hughiem38 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 98 Taurus SE with the 24V Durotec engine. After engine warmup and at about 1000 rpm and under light acceleration I have a shrill whistling noise coming from the engine, firewall area or dash, can't really tell. It goes away after about 1700 rpm. On slowing down it comes back when almost stopped and while idling you can press the accelerator just barely and it whistles.The fuel press. regulator and IAC valve have been replaced with no luck. Of course the shop can't duplicate the problem. Other than that I love the car. Plenty of pep and good gas milage.The noise is there with the A/C on and off so not that. Anyone else had a similar problem??
  • charlutcharlut Member Posts: 1
    I don't know anything about the problems you were having with your Taurus(gas smell). However, I need your advise. I am considering buying a l992 Taurus LX for my daughter. Would recommend a Taurus. It has 93,000 mi. 3.8 engine, and all the options for $3300. They said they've never had any problems (we know them and trust them), but my mechanic and another friend warned me about buying it, saying that they are prone to alot of problems, engine (esp. 3.8), A/C, trans., head gaskets, etc. Please advise ASAP. I also found a 92 Taurus with 70,000 mi. that's not quite so loaded for $3000. Both are in great condition in and out.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    Look at NHTSA database for 92 Taurus - big problems with head gaskets and transmissions. Listen to your mechanic on this one.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    From my post 233:
    I bought a '90 Sable (Mercury equivalent of Ford Taurus) new, just sold it 2 months ago with 135,000 miles. I would have been ahead by selling it at 60k -75k, but I hung on, pouring more money into it -- transmission, brakes, struts, cv joint boots, a/c, on and on (luckily I had the 3.0 liter - no engine problems).

    Also starter, alternator, water pump.

    Run, don't walk, away from those '92 Tauruses!
  • macsofficemacsoffice Member Posts: 1
    Never, never buy on older Taurus, especially with the 3.8L v6. This is one of the most under-engineered cars ever manufactured. My '93, notwithstanding the blown head gasket, failed power-steering pumps (2), broken motor mounts, broken rear suspension parts, failed accessory switches, failed cruise control, failed air-conditioning pump, front brake pads that never went 40K miles, failed front suspension members, well, it did fit in the garage nicely.
    Ford Motor Company, you should be embarrased by this pile of trash that you produced.
    Hello, & thanks Honda, for the car that I now own.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I had to replace the engine mounts also, and the main power steering lines, and twice for the wiper switch.

    Our vehicles are all imports now -- Toyota, Nissan, and Volvo.
  • mpw430mpw430 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 95 taurus with a front end squeak. it seems to squeak when i turn at very low speeds. is it from the chasis or is it a boot. all boots are intact. anybody else have this problem.
  • olegphilolegphil Member Posts: 30
    I've had to dump my '89 Taurus 4 years ago because of front wheel bearing. It had been replaced twice and needed replacement after 3K miles again. It was squeaking at low speeds and then just seized and started smoking on a highway.
  • myersedmyersed Member Posts: 102
    Just obtained a 96 Taurus with 65000 miles (2 months ago) after my daughter totaled our 98. It appears I may be in for some unanticipated maintenance. Brief responses to the following questions would be appreciated, and should steer me into the right direction. I have performed similar maintenance on older vehicles but the new ones have me scratching my head slightly. I plan to pick up a Haynes manual today- didn't need it for the 98 (it was flawless!!!)

    1) When Checking on belts I was posed with a question I could not answer. How can I positively ID if the 3.0 Liter is OH Cam or OH Valve. It shows both in the NAPA catalog

    2) Should Timing belt be replaced now? How difficult in this engine?

    3)Platinum Plugs- should they be replaced with exact replacement? Heard they are $8.00 each!!!

    4)Tranny fluid- When removing pan to replace filter can the converter be drained as well? I was informed that one needed to have the entire system purged with a special designed pump- at Cost of $80.00 (Plus the cost of Pan/Gasket and filter change).

    Thanks Ed
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I once had a '90 Sable, and we used to have a '96 Taurus at work, so I know something about them.
    1. If the eighth digit of the car's VIN (serial number) is "U", then you have the 3.0-liter overhead valve "Vulcan" engine. If it's some other letter or number, then you have the 3.0-liter overhead cam "Duratec" engine.

    2. The Vulcan engine has a timing chain, not a belt, and no maintenance is required. I think, but am not sure, that the Duratec engine also has a chain.

    3. I'd stick with the platinum plugs - they'll last for 60K miles. I paid about $2 each, not $8.

    4. I think you can get by without purging the tranny. On most cars, you can only get about 1/2 the total capacity out, so purging supposedly makes it possible to get ALL of the old fluid out. I get around this by simply changing the fluid more often.
  • myersedmyersed Member Posts: 102
    Thanks for the feedback . I checked the VIN- it is a "U" so it must be the OHV Vulcan. At least I won't have to worry about the chain for a while!

    I am not sure where the individual got the $8.00 fee from either. I happened to be in Wal Mart today and noticed platinum plugs in the $2-3 range. I will take your advice.

    Also, I picked up my Haynes Manual- looks like it will help with most tasks I will undertake.

    DO you have any advice on computer code readers for the Taurus?

    Thanks again- Ed
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Unfortunately I don't know anything about computer code readers.
  • KysuHoangKysuHoang Member Posts: 1
    RE. post #177 & 178. A Judge in California ordered Ford to recall Ford vehicle with problem of stalling in hot weather. Please see the link

    http://cnnfn.cnn.com/2000/10/11/recalls/wires/fordrecall_wg/
  • mrsmontymrsmonty Member Posts: 1
    We brought our car into the garage today because we have been having problems with the transmission jerking/sticking from the stop position or when traveling in bumper to bumper traffic-especially on offramps. We want to know if anyone else knows of any problems that 1999 Taurus are having regarding this? Of course when it was at the garage "there was nothing wrong", but we were told if it happens again to let them know and bring it back in. Thanks...
  • ocdocd Member Posts: 7
    Well after two months of shopping I finally received the correct price. My wife and I love this car! We traded in our 1999 Explorer due to safety/gas issues. Anyone else recently take home a 2001 model? I am interested in you recent experiences with your new car. Thanks!
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Congratulations!

    Probably the best place in Town Hall to find others who have recently purchased that model would be over in our Sedans conference. Here is a link to the current topic over there:

    Ford Taurus Two (Topic #3419)

    Enjoy your new car!

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • joeopticsjoeoptics Member Posts: 4
    I am new to this group and looking for a new car. This looks like place to relate why I will never buy a Ford again. We purchased a 93 Ford Taurus 3.8 liter wagon from the dealer brand new. I have been driving since 1968 and have never had a car with more problems or less dealer support. It was dealer maintained for the first 5 years. Head gasket blew at 53K miles. Complained to Ford and they told me to take a hike. Air conditioner has had all kinds of problems and repairs. Engine was finally replaced recently at my expense, definitely a mistake on my part, but it seemed cheaper than a replacement car. We do NOT drive cars real fast or accelerate fast. Ford has ignored my complaints about the engine, yet I know anecdotally that the 3.8 liter engine has all kinds of trouble. I know Ford had a recall on the newer 3.8 liter engines, but they have ignored those with older versions that have the same defects. I am leaving out of this note all the assorted more standard problems such as brakes and electrical problems.

    The cars I am starting to look at now are Honda Accord and Toyota Camry. Ford has lost me forever as a customer; there shoddy quality and repairs, plus TOTAL lack of corporate attention to defects over the years far outway any initial cost savings.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    I took Ford to court for the head gaskets on my 93 Thunderbird failing. I won my case (still waiting on my check from Ford - I'm supposed to have it by 10/20). There's a good chance you would win a small claims case. If you'd like, e-mail me at P_J_Young@yahoo.com. I might have some things to help you should you decide to file a small claims case. You'll never know unless you try.
  • cjd4cjd4 Member Posts: 1
    Question for #118. Probably way to late for this but I'm new to this site. I have a 93 taurus that has the check engine light coming on after about 5-10 miles of driving. It then goes off after 1 or 2 min and may stay off or flash on and off. Two mechanics have not found a problem. One says the reading is showing fuel pump failure but hesitates to put in a new one as long as there seems to be no other problems i.e. cutting out etc. If (Ideal 50) can supply the information that she mentioned, or if anyone else has any idea what the problem may be I would certainly appreciate it if you could let me know. Thanks
  • moxie4moxie4 Member Posts: 1
    We once had a car with a sore [non-permissible content removed]
    The repair bills really did floor us
    We have since learned
    If you don’t want to get burned
    Stay away from Ford and from Taurus

    Problems included CV joints, brake rotors, engine mounts, front axles, tie rods, speedometer cable, transmission, head gasket and more that I don’t care to remember. Spent over $6000 Canadian in repairs over the 2 ½ years that this car owned us. The car was two years old when we bought it for $10000 Canadian. Ended up giving it away. Head gasket blew while I was having it looked at for trade in value on a Mazda. It saved the best for last – nice big smoke show right there at the Mazda dealership. I brought my concerns to the attention of Ford, whose only proposed fix was to sell me another Ford – not!. I will never ever buy another Ford. You couldn’t give me one if it came with cash in the glove box. I won’t take it. The 1995 Taurus Wagon was the junkiest car I ever owned. I am still paying off both the repair bills and the money I borrowed to buy it, and thinking about it and writing about it makes me feel ill. Keep away!
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    I've got a 92 Taurus with 95,000 miles, and it has not been too bad of a car. Considering I paid only $8,500 for it with 33,000 miles (How much would a comparable 4 year old Accord with 33,000 miles would have cost?), it has been cheap to keep as well, other than an expensive air conditioner compressor repair. The factory tires went 82,000 miles, and only one set of brake pads so far. Have replaced rear struts and water pump as well, all at around 75-80k miles. Not perfect, but parts are cheap, and I don't think it seems that unreasonable.

    Occasionally, either after driving for a few hours, the check engine light will come on, and after a minute or two, go off, not to come back on. I am thinking to Oxygen sensor may transmit a problem. If the car runs fine, and your mechanic doesn't see a problem, I would not worry about it. Most likely it is just an emissions issue. I have been thinking about replacing the Oxygen sensor, as my mileage has dropped lately from around 24 mpg to about 22 mpg.

    I have never had to do any transmission work, or engine repairs. One reason may be I flush both the transmission and coolant system every 30,000 miles.

    All I can say is in my family's experiences with an 89, 92, & 93 Taurus, all have been fairly cheap to own. The 3.0 engine has a better reputation, but if I can get to 120,000 miles, I will be satisfied, as that would work out to paying $8,500 and getting 85,000 miles out of it.
  • mpaulmpaul Member Posts: 9
    Hello all,
    I am changing the heater core in this beast on the weekend and would very much appreciate any help as my service manual is pretty vauge.
    I understand its a big undertaking but it has to be done. This car has A/C but it hasn't worked in a few years and I have no intentions of having it repaired so thats not a big concern.
    Does any one know if I need any special tools.
    I was told that the steering column had to be removed, is this true? (Hope not!!)
    Anyone one have any tips?
    I would be greatful for any help.
  • copytechcopytech Member Posts: 71
    it could be caused by a lazy o2 sensor. They're not too expensive, and easy to change. They switch from rich to lean and rich to lean at about 80 to 100 milliseconds. At around 200 and above, they are considered "lazy." The mpg will increase because it will get the engine closer to the 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio.

    You are lucky with those trannys. The "axods" trans have a rear sun/planet that gets starved for fluid, so they are not good cars to take on long trips. I am not saying that because I am not a Ford fan. They have a poor design (the newer ones are a little better) and the fluid gets hot and cannot properly lube the sun and planets on the rear of the tranny. You can tell if you need the radiator fluid changed. Take a multimeter and ground the neg lead. Take the pos lead and stick it into the antifreeze. If it's higher than .3 volts, time to thange it. Usually about every year or so is a good idea to keep the components properly lubed.
  • copytechcopytech Member Posts: 71
    Sometimes the books say to practically remove the dash to get out the heater core. Maybe that's where the steering column comes in. I have never taken out a steering column to change a heater core. If I remember correctly you don't need any special tools for that job. It probably will leak so be prepared for some fluid loss. Be careful of two things, watch exactly on how you disconnect your heater selector lines. Second thing, under the hood. The heater core lines are WAFER THIN. On reconnection of the lines, put a little vaseline on the hoses to slide back on. Leave the heater exchanger on hot when adding radiator fluid and running the vehicle. Heater cores aren't usually difficult, just time consuming.
  • mpaulmpaul Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply. Good tips
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    I had to remove the dash on my '91 sable sedan (BTW, 3.8L, 173k and NO HG, cooling, out-of-the-ordinary problems) to replace a blend door controller for the auto climate control. The controller mounted on the core. You do have to drop the steering column, but if I remember right, it is 4 nuts. I didn't have to remove the dash completly, thankfully, but I believe you would to remove the core. It took me most of the weekend to do this. It is a HUGE job, but with average mechanical skills and regular hand tools, you should be able to do this.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Its a big job. You said your AC doesn't work and if your not going to fix it you should probably just cut the pipe where it goes into the evaporator (through the firewall). I'm assuming that there's no freon charge left in the system. If there is then it has to be evacuated before cutting. If you want to reconnect the line to the evaporator you will need the special tool to release the spring clamp on the line. BTW, Ford recommends replacing the receiver/dryer anytime it is removed for service, but here again if your not going to recharge and use the AC it doesn't matter.
    If memory serves me you will need to remove the dash and remove the entire climate housing to get the core out. I do remember having to unbolt and swing the column out of the way, but it wasn't hard to do that part. As I remember it was a difficult and time consuming job.
    Let us know how it went.
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