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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • rayqrayq Member Posts: 2
    Car runs fine for about 10 minutes then when I come to a stop it labors to get in gear then once it does car runs fine.Someone told me it could be the torque converter and if it is, does this mean I would need a new transmission.If not how big a job would a torque converter be,(Car has 108k). Thank You
  • steelers_chicksteelers_chick Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I just wanted to write real quick because my 99 Taurus is having the exact same problem! It started one morning, the heat was working fine....then all of a sudden, it got really cold. I noticed at that time that my car started to get really hot, then cool down. It did that a couple times, and it's never done it since. But instead of getting hot, when i start my car, it will get warm where it's suppose to be, but when i give it gas to take off, it gets cold. The heat doesn't work, only from the vent. And on top of that, somehow I'm losing power steering fluid and it squeeks when I turn my wheel to the left. I've tried changing the thermostat, flushing the radiator, but I don't know what else to do other than the heater core, and I've heard that's a job! Have you figured out what it was yet?? If you have, please let me know. And I'll do the same for you! Thank you.
  • clindclind Member Posts: 2
    Code po 460 - Which indicated that Fuel level sensor. This was replaced, but the problem is still happening.
    I was told that it may now be the "Flex Fuel Sensor"??? Does this seem right?
  • marc14marc14 Member Posts: 1
    MY wipers no longer function properly. I diagnosed that the problem is not the wiper motor but it is the pivot part attached to the motor and transmission arms. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to remove this pivot from the wiper motor. I removed every screw that I could possibly found on the pivot and it still will not come off. Iff anyone can help it would GREAT. Please email me ASAP. I can't drive without wipers especially with the snow coming.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    did it with my exploder a year or so back, no big deal. you do need to get the right cleaner, throttle body cleaner... there is probably a coating inside the throttle body to smooth it, and carb cleaner can dissolve it. scafre up a little WD-40 or other light silicone, too. get lots of T-shirt rags and maybe a pipe cleaner or two.

    you need to remove the plastic cover from the throttle cables, remove the intake hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, and remove the IAC valve from on top the throttle body.

    REALIZE that this car is not going to start for a while, nor run well, when you have finished, because of all the low-volatility cleaner that will drool into the intake.

    that said... only one other caution. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WHATEVER, absolutely by gollies DO NOT MONKEY with the THROTTLE PLATE! you will wreck it. no pressure on that plate. open it by pulling on the throttle, where the cables attach.

    now, the procedure. shoot a little throttle body cleaner into the IAC channels atop the throttle body, open the throttle, and shoot a little cleaner in there and on the plate, coat it moderately well. go back to the IAC channels and spray again, then use pipe cleaners to get the goo dislodged, and spray it away. open the throttle again, spray some more cleaner, and use folded-over T-shirt rags (so no strings get caught on stuff) and light finger pressure to gently rub the grunge out of the throttle and off the throttle plate on both sides. I said LIGHT pressure, like you were smoothing over a baby's eyes.

    keep it up with solvent until the rags come away clean. put it all together again. you're working with aluminum here, don't overtighten things... finger-tight and a quarter-turn extra MAX when putting the IAC valve back on. be sure to reconnect its electrical connector.

    now, the starting. what I did with mine, I cranked 15-20 seconds, listened to a song all the way through on the ol' CD player, then cranked again. eventually the truck started, and your car should, too. it will run rough and smoky for a couple minutes, then you've gotten rid of all the solvent, and all should be well.
  • grungrun Member Posts: 2
    99 taurus. 3.0 OHV. Very little heat inside car. Put in a flush tee,took opposite end of hose off heater core and flushed water through.. had good flow.. replaced thermostat,radiator cap, and the water pump..,d say heat works 10% better. What is the next step? The air is not very powerful blowing out of the vents,defrost,or heat vents... also the hose going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
  • jkrakejkrake Member Posts: 3
    maybe if i drive it off the cliff!!!
  • jkrakejkrake Member Posts: 3
    my daytime driving lights flash on and off as fast as a police cars headlights flash but work fine as soon as the headlight switch is turned on???
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Tauri do not have "daytime driving lights", at least not US versions. Canadian versions probably do have daytime running lights. Do you have your emergency flasher activated by accident and that is what is flashing?
  • jkrakejkrake Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 taurus that is equipped with daytime running lights.My owners manual talks a little about it but of course doesn't talk about troubleshooting.My four way flashers are not on and all i need to know is why they are flashing.When i first start the car they dont flash but as soon as they warm up they start to flash rapidly. :shades:
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    the wife has a US-market taurus with DRLs. I think they put 'em on all the fleet orders. if you bought a "program car", it was probably a fleet vehicle, and would have the DRL module.

    which is probably bad in the flash-o-matic above. get out your wallet, they are in the $300 range, roughly speaking.

    somebody had a post a year or a half year ago, that there was a patch-out connector module that allowed removal of DRLs in something or other. ask your parts man at the dealer about this, it's a darn sight cheaper.
  • mattock4mattock4 Member Posts: 2
    Note post #2065, maybe the same as your problem. No engine codes were recoverable. I ran several cans of gas treatment through as well as injector cleaner. And I had the mystified Ford dealer change out the fuel filter. I've had no stalling since, about 3 weeks and 2000 miles.
  • jazeeladeejazeeladee Member Posts: 2
    All of a sudden the air will not flow through the vents for a/c or heat. What could the problem be? I checked everything and do not see where the problem is.
  • alexhzalexhz Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 2001 Sable, with a weird problem, when the outside temperature falls below 55 deg. aprox. and I start the engine in the morning, the check engine light turns on and a misfire code is stored on the computer, the car feels bumpy too. After I drive it for a while and the engine warms up it runs smooth again, I already tuned it up and changed the coils module to try to deal with the misfire code, nevertheless I still have the problem. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    try the 'stalk' that controls brights/turn signals.
    mine was so bad that lights would only come on when I wiggled it.
    should cost about $80 if I remember correctly.
  • dragonking9dragonking9 Member Posts: 1
    i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor and my speed sensor. can anyone tell me how to do it, the needed tools, how long to set aside, etc.... i ahve a bosch premium O2 sensor and a wells speed sensor. from what it looks like i jsut need to unscrew and then attach the new parts. a visual guide would be great but i ahven't been able to find any
  • jrod1234jrod1234 Member Posts: 1
    My name is Joe and I also have a 97 Taurus. I have the same problem, exactly as you described. Do you have any info on the problem? If so please responde
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor"

    Which oxygen sensor are you referring to? There are 4 of them:
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801af707.gif

    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
    Vehicle Speed Sensor
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    4. Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
    5. Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
    6. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
    7. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
    8. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.

    To install:

    9. Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
    10. Install the driven gear and the retainer.
    11. Place the VSS into the transaxle.
    12. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
    13. Install the VSS protective heat shield.
    14. Attach the VSS electrical connector.
    15. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    16. Lower the vehicle.
    17. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • quickfixquickfix Member Posts: 1
    how do i get the parking brake out of the left side rear caliper of my 95 ford taurus
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    By overhauling the caliper IF you can find rebuild parts for it. Easier to replace the caliper with a remanufactured one.
  • acadiarushacadiarush Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this?
  • acadiarushacadiarush Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this? This was an intermittant issue for which I took the car to a dealer during the warranty period. They said it worked fine. Now, it doesn't work at all.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    My wife explains problem. Says she drives along and then speedometer jumps downward and car acts like tranny slipping. Last part understandable if car doesn't know how fast it is going and thus don't know what gear the electrically controlled tranny should be in. Of course, first suspicion is VSS, but chilton's says a bad VSS will give check engine and set code. Neither occur.
    Vehicle is 97 Sable Wagon 3.0.

    I seldom drive car and likely my luck if I drive a distance it will act up.

    Wife took it to place I told her to stay away from because I felt it needed full scan anyway, and I know they rip people. Was told they replaced VSS because they were pretty sure that was problem and if didn't fix they'd credit toward transmission. (Do you see the scam in this)

    I guess I need to know if chiltons was correct on the code thing.

    If problem goes away and chilton is correct, then I guess that means computer has a problem. Still likely to need full scan I guess.
  • dad53dad53 Member Posts: 1
    My 1989 Taurus 3.0L with 130,000 miles get an oil light after 20 minutes of driving. I checked the oil pressure with a gage at 50psi before replacing the oil pressure switch, although i did not wait the 20 minutes for the oil light came on first. When the oil light comes on the engine starts making a little more noise and seems to loose power. I have not run it long after the oil light come on but later I can start the car and for the first 20 minutes it is OK again. I don't know what the repair would be or if it's worth it and I hate to just let the repair shop at it because I don't want to spend alot for them to tell me I can't afford it.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    If it didn't do it prior to previous oil change, try this. Let car sit and then change oil. It is possible that debris is in the oil and it takes about that long for enough of it to plug the screen on the oil pump. Look for signs of debris in drained oil. You might want to use cheap oil, no filter on this attempt. Or you could go straight for dropping pan to get at oil pump screen. You'd likely want to ensure it is totally clean, not partially blocked. And replace the silicone pan gasket at the same time, if not already done. Especially if mis-shaped at front end. They had a tendancy to eventually get a little brittle if old and often push out at the front end of motor. You can inspect this without any removal and should.
    If it doesn't go out completely which will show sudden oil loss, it will act like a funnel to the oil pan and water will weep into the oil. Also it is located such that if the water pump is weeping coolant, same problem. I had one that I converted to the orange coolant. Seemed to use a little over a quart between changes. And might need about a pint of coolant in same time. I had noticed that the oil filler cap was accumulating an orangish varnish like coating, but didn't realise this was the source. Vehicle milage on one about the same as yours. Other failed totally at about 170K.
  • coveyduckcoveyduck Member Posts: 2
    We have a 1997 Mercury Sable wagon, which we bought used, and it has been a GREAT car! Not one bit of trouble (we of course bought the extended warranty, which means nothing will go wrong with it during the warranty period!) :D

    My question: just noticed that one of the lamps in the "third" brake light on the tailgate is burned out. Can't find info in the owner's manual about how to remove the assembly to change the lamp. Is this a do-it-yourself kind of thing? But how?? Thanks to anyone who could help... :confuse:
  • granny2granny2 Member Posts: 1
    just replaced engine in 1997 taurus. car was registering hot. replaced the thermostat, saw the fans were not working, replaced the fan sencor, now they work but still registering hot. what to do next :confuse:
  • pato2pato2 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone heip me. i have a 93 merc sable 3.0liter sedan.cruise control wont engage just stopped working.
    was working sometimes but now nothing. replaced the fuse
    but the old one was not bad. there is one hot wire on the 6 wire connector prong. is there a sensor somewhere? also can i remove the steering wheel with air bag if i disconnect the battery first?
  • tszabadostszabados Member Posts: 3
    same problem here wife says no heat most days but some times it will heat up then fade to cold. never had any problems until this. I think it is probably a vacum line or switch but would like to know if you ever got this figured out. I have a 97 gl wagon over 270K one fuel pump brakes every year new cam pos ,oxy,timing sensors its been good for the most part
  • wgreenwgreen Member Posts: 17
    How is the flow through your radiator?
  • jazeeladeejazeeladee Member Posts: 2
    We found out it is the fan motor than needs to be replaced. The part costs approximately $200 then we will have to pay for the labor. It's bad for us cause the car is fairly new. :cry::cry::cry::cry: :mad:" alt="image" />
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    I have a 95 Taurus that is giving me tranny problems. The problems started about 2-3 years ago. Originally, there were two distinct symptoms: first, on medium to heavy acceleration (especially on inclines) the car would squeal and not go anywhere. You would have to back off the gas to allow (the tranny) to grab and then keep playing with it until you picked up some speed. Second: the car would buck / shudder on first acceleration, being the worst when cold (either car or weather). A couple of fluid//filter changes and a complete flush helped for a while. On the final trans fluid/filter changes I noticed a large (about 1.5" x 1/2"), curved piece of metal in the pan - not good, I thought; however, since I lost that piece, the first problem is gone. The second problem persists; however. What is strange to me is that I always though that tranny slippage gets worst as the fluid temp heats up; my problem happens when it's cold. Also, I have no problems when cruising on the highway, even under hard acceleration. I would appreciate any help or advise. Thanks. Nick
  • jhuberjhuber Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Mercury Sable and have the same problem. The lights stay on all the time when I use the auto-mode lights. Recently, they have been flashing off for a second and then back on. I believe it is the sensor but have not had it checked.
  • alexhzalexhz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Sable, with a weird problem, when the outside temperature falls below 55 deg. aprox. and I start the engine in the morning, the engine misses badly, the check engine light is turned on. After I drive it for a while and the engine warms up it runs smooth again, I already tuned it up and changed the coils module to try to deal with a misfire code, nevertheless I still have the problem.

    I got the following codes from the computer:
    P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
    P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
    P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
    P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
    P1131 HO2S 11 Indicates Lean (Ford)
    P1151 Lack Of HO2S-21 Switch Indicates Lean (Ford)

    Since I already checked all the ignition components, my question is: Is it possible that a defective oxygen sensor could trigger a misfire code? In that case if I replace both oxygen sensors for bank 1 and 2, Would the problem in my car be solved?
    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • steve12887steve12887 Member Posts: 5
    where is this sensor located on the car? any information you can give me would be great.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Do you have any idea of the source of the metal? Thickness?
    Amount of curve, as in arc?
    First guess would be a piece of the low gear band. Ford's were known for slow engagement when cold in older transmissions.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sensor 2 would likely be the ones after the converter. Also unlikely both would go simultaneously unless something was really afoul with the fuel.
    Maybe start with making sure temp sensor is in range.
    Misfire likely due to leanness of fuel mix.
    Try looking for a vacuum leak as well.
  • drlockdrlock Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 SEL 24V loaded and and my sway bar link is gone again! this will be the third time this will be replaced

    This is my wife car low miles only 24K...3.5yrs old out of warranty. I was wonderingdoes anybody have this problem multiple times?
  • stevewwwstevewww Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Taurus does the same thing, along with a wildly fluctuating temp guage. I have found through my research that the impeller on the water pumps are weak and the coolant eats away the "fan" portion of the pump. If you go to the alt.autos.ford newsgroup, a guy named "backyard mechanic" posted some pictures of a bad pump. I have yet to tear in to mine to see, but that is where I am going.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    depends on how you want to do it. I went through the trunk. center just back of the trunk hatch, there are two black twist connectors, and surprise! -- each holds a large wedge bulb from the high brake light. I replace them both any time one goes out in the wife's car, so there is an assured brake-pedal interlock action between neutral and drive until I can get the other bulb fixed.

    supposedly you can tip the high brake light assembly forward and snap it out of the back deck, but do that once too many times, or once in the cold, and the tabs will break. it's fast and easy going through the trunk.

    the proper bulbs to get at the parts store should be listed in your owners manual, back around page 170 or 180 where nobody ever reads, and you might be surprised to see the new bulb packages usually hold two.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check for vacuum leaks, the PCV valve grommet can be a problem. Check fuel pressure. When was the fuel filter last changed?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    OEM from Ford tend not last very long. Decent aftermarket parts such as Moog are a better solution:

    http://www.federalmogul.com/aftermarket/us/Bulletins/25470.pdf
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    The piece that came out was about 1/32" thick, grey color, curved (arched) as if curved around a ball. Also, if you look at it widthwise, it was also curved (like an apostrope). When these ford trannys get old and start to have these problems, are they on the way out or can they last for a while longer? Thanks
  • delsoler30delsoler30 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Mercury Sable that has recently had the Airbag warning light come on continuously. I took it to the local Auto-Zone and they told me they could not use the analyzer to determine why the light came on. Is this something I need to go to the dealer for or is there another way to check this out. Thanks. The car was involved in a front end accident some months back , but don't think it has anything to do with it.. The airbags did not deploy.Thanks for any help.
  • msandreamsandrea Member Posts: 1
    when i start the car it sounds fine but after about 15-20 mins of running it starts making a ticking noise and the oil light comes on do you know what could be wrong???
    should i keep it or get rid of it?
    i had this car since 42,000 on it and this is the first big problem to go wrong with it
    :mad:
    1996 taurus gl
    ohv 3.0
    137,000 mi
  • fordy1fordy1 Member Posts: 30
    :confuse: It seems that everything is fine when starting off in the am however while driving the heater stops blowing warm and goes to cold. And it will not recover. The system is full, no leaks, and temp guage works fine.Whats up?
  • bates3bates3 Member Posts: 4
    Any suggestions other than trade. 2000 Taurus; runs great but stalls and quits at stops. Rough idle, 97,000 miles. Has been a great car. Engine light is now on and codes at autoparts store says ERG too rich and ERG too lean. will this cause it to complete stall out? Has anyone had problems with Idle intake air control pump/valve? Guy at parts store said could be the problem.
  • ledesordreledesordre Member Posts: 1
    Car runs fine, doesn't overheat or anything or appear to be burning through coolant...

    But when I turn on the heat in the car it noticebly smells like coolant (the air coming out is still hot)

    What should I check, heater core? I heard DIY install on that is terrible and very expensive at a shop.

    Radiator fluid was just flushed again and I added some stop leak stuff this time. But car is running fine other than that, anyone have any possible suggestions?
  • mersablemersable Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sable and My driver side air bag
    is blown, what I would like to know is I found a
    2003 set of air bags + modules an I change mind
    over to these if I change everthing?
  • coveyduckcoveyduck Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much! We were stumped! Happy Holidays from Kansas. :)
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