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Comments
I was told that it may now be the "Flex Fuel Sensor"??? Does this seem right?
you need to remove the plastic cover from the throttle cables, remove the intake hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, and remove the IAC valve from on top the throttle body.
REALIZE that this car is not going to start for a while, nor run well, when you have finished, because of all the low-volatility cleaner that will drool into the intake.
that said... only one other caution. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WHATEVER, absolutely by gollies DO NOT MONKEY with the THROTTLE PLATE! you will wreck it. no pressure on that plate. open it by pulling on the throttle, where the cables attach.
now, the procedure. shoot a little throttle body cleaner into the IAC channels atop the throttle body, open the throttle, and shoot a little cleaner in there and on the plate, coat it moderately well. go back to the IAC channels and spray again, then use pipe cleaners to get the goo dislodged, and spray it away. open the throttle again, spray some more cleaner, and use folded-over T-shirt rags (so no strings get caught on stuff) and light finger pressure to gently rub the grunge out of the throttle and off the throttle plate on both sides. I said LIGHT pressure, like you were smoothing over a baby's eyes.
keep it up with solvent until the rags come away clean. put it all together again. you're working with aluminum here, don't overtighten things... finger-tight and a quarter-turn extra MAX when putting the IAC valve back on. be sure to reconnect its electrical connector.
now, the starting. what I did with mine, I cranked 15-20 seconds, listened to a song all the way through on the ol' CD player, then cranked again. eventually the truck started, and your car should, too. it will run rough and smoky for a couple minutes, then you've gotten rid of all the solvent, and all should be well.
which is probably bad in the flash-o-matic above. get out your wallet, they are in the $300 range, roughly speaking.
somebody had a post a year or a half year ago, that there was a patch-out connector module that allowed removal of DRLs in something or other. ask your parts man at the dealer about this, it's a darn sight cheaper.
mine was so bad that lights would only come on when I wiggled it.
should cost about $80 if I remember correctly.
Which oxygen sensor are you referring to? There are 4 of them:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801af707.gif
Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
Vehicle Speed Sensor
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
4. Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
5. Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
6. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
7. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
8. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.
To install:
9. Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
10. Install the driven gear and the retainer.
11. Place the VSS into the transaxle.
12. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
13. Install the VSS protective heat shield.
14. Attach the VSS electrical connector.
15. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
Vehicle is 97 Sable Wagon 3.0.
I seldom drive car and likely my luck if I drive a distance it will act up.
Wife took it to place I told her to stay away from because I felt it needed full scan anyway, and I know they rip people. Was told they replaced VSS because they were pretty sure that was problem and if didn't fix they'd credit toward transmission. (Do you see the scam in this)
I guess I need to know if chiltons was correct on the code thing.
If problem goes away and chilton is correct, then I guess that means computer has a problem. Still likely to need full scan I guess.
If it doesn't go out completely which will show sudden oil loss, it will act like a funnel to the oil pan and water will weep into the oil. Also it is located such that if the water pump is weeping coolant, same problem. I had one that I converted to the orange coolant. Seemed to use a little over a quart between changes. And might need about a pint of coolant in same time. I had noticed that the oil filler cap was accumulating an orangish varnish like coating, but didn't realise this was the source. Vehicle milage on one about the same as yours. Other failed totally at about 170K.
My question: just noticed that one of the lamps in the "third" brake light on the tailgate is burned out. Can't find info in the owner's manual about how to remove the assembly to change the lamp. Is this a do-it-yourself kind of thing? But how?? Thanks to anyone who could help... :confuse:
was working sometimes but now nothing. replaced the fuse
but the old one was not bad. there is one hot wire on the 6 wire connector prong. is there a sensor somewhere? also can i remove the steering wheel with air bag if i disconnect the battery first?
I have a 95 Taurus that is giving me tranny problems. The problems started about 2-3 years ago. Originally, there were two distinct symptoms: first, on medium to heavy acceleration (especially on inclines) the car would squeal and not go anywhere. You would have to back off the gas to allow (the tranny) to grab and then keep playing with it until you picked up some speed. Second: the car would buck / shudder on first acceleration, being the worst when cold (either car or weather). A couple of fluid//filter changes and a complete flush helped for a while. On the final trans fluid/filter changes I noticed a large (about 1.5" x 1/2"), curved piece of metal in the pan - not good, I thought; however, since I lost that piece, the first problem is gone. The second problem persists; however. What is strange to me is that I always though that tranny slippage gets worst as the fluid temp heats up; my problem happens when it's cold. Also, I have no problems when cruising on the highway, even under hard acceleration. I would appreciate any help or advise. Thanks. Nick
I got the following codes from the computer:
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P1131 HO2S 11 Indicates Lean (Ford)
P1151 Lack Of HO2S-21 Switch Indicates Lean (Ford)
Since I already checked all the ignition components, my question is: Is it possible that a defective oxygen sensor could trigger a misfire code? In that case if I replace both oxygen sensors for bank 1 and 2, Would the problem in my car be solved?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Amount of curve, as in arc?
First guess would be a piece of the low gear band. Ford's were known for slow engagement when cold in older transmissions.
Maybe start with making sure temp sensor is in range.
Misfire likely due to leanness of fuel mix.
Try looking for a vacuum leak as well.
This is my wife car low miles only 24K...3.5yrs old out of warranty. I was wonderingdoes anybody have this problem multiple times?
supposedly you can tip the high brake light assembly forward and snap it out of the back deck, but do that once too many times, or once in the cold, and the tabs will break. it's fast and easy going through the trunk.
the proper bulbs to get at the parts store should be listed in your owners manual, back around page 170 or 180 where nobody ever reads, and you might be surprised to see the new bulb packages usually hold two.
http://www.federalmogul.com/aftermarket/us/Bulletins/25470.pdf
should i keep it or get rid of it?
i had this car since 42,000 on it and this is the first big problem to go wrong with it
:mad:
1996 taurus gl
ohv 3.0
137,000 mi
But when I turn on the heat in the car it noticebly smells like coolant (the air coming out is still hot)
What should I check, heater core? I heard DIY install on that is terrible and very expensive at a shop.
Radiator fluid was just flushed again and I added some stop leak stuff this time. But car is running fine other than that, anyone have any possible suggestions?
is blown, what I would like to know is I found a
2003 set of air bags + modules an I change mind
over to these if I change everthing?