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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • pablosolispablosolis Member Posts: 1
    I own an 88 Taurus LX , 3.8L. The doors lock but don't unlock from the driver's or passenger bottoms. The driver's door locks and unlock from the keyless key pad.

    It seems to be a fault relay but I can't find where control module is located.

    Any help will be welcome.
  • seige553seige553 Member Posts: 1
    i just wondering if anyone knew approximately (just a ballpark) at how much it would cost to repair about a 2x2 inch chip of paint on my rear bumper - no dent or scratch just a chip of paint???? any information would be greatly appreciated
  • johnathanjjohnathanj Member Posts: 1
    I just got the same Message with my 98 Mercury Sable. Have you had your Tausus fixed yet? What did you do?
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Hi, everyone!

    I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES w/95,400 miles with the Vulcan engine. My check engine light come on and I had Advanced Auto Parts read the code - PO442 which means "EVAP Emissions Control System Leak (Small)".

    Seven weeks earlier the light came on, only it was a large leak code and I disconnected the battery to turn the check engine light off.

    What could it be? I've already tried the gas cap. The cars runs just the same, which is great!

    THANKS!
    - Alex
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The most common cause of this DTC is the cam sensor wiped out. The sensor housing bushings wear, allowing the shaft to wobble and hit the sensor. Easy to check, just remove the 2 screws holding the sensor onto it's housing and look for damage on the underside.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d801af831.gif

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d801af832.gif
  • mlmyersmlmyers Member Posts: 2
    I ran across an article indicating that perhaps the coolant sensor is not responding correctly. Has anyone replaced this sensor with success in correcting their emissions problems?

    Thanks
  • ohio7ohio7 Member Posts: 67
    I, too, have a 2000 SEL and in August the check engine light came on. Drove immediately to my mechanic and he ran the codes and told me to get it done free at my dealer (very honest man). Went to dealer and, with exactly 30,000 on the odometer, got the sensor done free.

    The letter I got (went to my file and retrieved it) said that it extended the warrenty two more years. I was about a month past the date on the extension but whined and complained loudly about Ford's reputation going South and "good will" of the dealer for wanting me to buy another Ford from them (my 2nd purchase from them). The advisor went to the service manager and agreed to give it to me. Grovelling sometimes works.

    I still love the car even with all of the recalls on top of recalls. It is a nuisance to keep dropping it off and not having a car but I guess those things happen. I bookmark a lot of all of your comments just in case I have issues with that problem. I am the original owner and only put 5000+ miles on a year. Drive only 6 miles a day and very little on weekends.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sometimes you can find people who come to your location and air brush out small defects in bumpers or blend in paint chips....auto dealers use these guys all the time...a complete repaint of the bumper to the point where you'd be proud to look at it, would be $300 easy.
  • jgrossman1jgrossman1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my '96 and replaced the internal switch.
    Looks like a pc. of junk and it was stuck/broken.

    Does anyone know where the window washer sprayer motor/pump is located?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Recalls on top of recalls? I only have had three recalls on my 2000 SES Duratech:

    Wiper Motor
    Brake light switch
    Protection covers on front springs (front springs and DPFE Sensor are under Ford issued extended warranty)

    Other warranty repairs I have had are:

    Wiper notor (yes, the recall replacement one failed under warranty)

    Coolant overflow tank/sensor assembly replaced.

    All these warranty/recalls were minor and fixed quickly and efficiently. Perfect? No, but close enough so I am happy.

    No other warranty or nonwarranty failure issues to date.

    Routine oil changes, one transmission flush, new tires last fall, new front brakes last fall, two alignments, a couple of flat repairs, one new battery a couple years ago. That is about it to date. A very good car and solid as it was new.
  • sable2002sable2002 Member Posts: 5
    I recently replaced the resistor and the blower motor on my 2002 Mercury Sable. I know very little about auto mechanics but was able to do it with no problem. In a phone call wherein I described the problem, the dealer said it would take $360 to replace a switch. The problem was that the fan didn't always come on, and if it did come on, it had only two speeds - off or high.

    For safety, I completed all of these activities with the ground wire to the battery disconnected. To remove the radio and test the knob for the fan, I had to buy DIN tools to remove the radio ($4 at an auto parts store, including instructions). I bought a 9 volt transistor battery, some wires, alligator clamps, and a test light. (Auto parts store and Radio Shack, total about $10). I totally disconnected the knob and tested to see how it directed the current in each position. The prong of the knob that connected to the orange wire "fed" each of the black, yellow and green wires in turn, as I switched from high to lower to lower. In the lowest position, none of the prongs were connected to any other.

    It turned out that this is exactly what the knob was supposed to do, so the dealer would have been wrong if he replaced the knob (for $360).

    Next, I followed the wires from the knob down to below the glove box (on the passenger side) to where they connected to the resistor. To get to the resistor, I had to remove a large plastic panel that was below the glove box, above the area for the passenger's feet. It pulled away from below the dashboard easily (and later re-attached easily, via a couple of plastic prongs).

    From below, the resistor is a blue rectangle, two and a half inches by one and a half inches, with four wires attached via a single connector. I disconnected the connector to the resistor and used my test light, wires and 9 volt transistor battery to determine that the yellow, green and orange wires from the knob in the radio enter into the resistor. I don't know where the black one went. The resistor has its own black wire. I suppose this all makes sense to an electrician, but not to me. But as they say in college, it is all intuitively obvious and correct.

    I removed the resistor from the vehicle with a socket wrench. It was attached by two hex bolts. In the resistor there is a small heat sensitive circuit/switch that was always closed. I determined that it was always closed by using my wires, alligator clamps, small battery, and test light to try to send a current through it. I determined that it was a heat sensitive switch because the replacement resistor was printed with 128 degrees C. I found a replacement for the resistor on the web at about $12 plus shipping. Not wanting to wait for shipment, I went to the dealer and got one for about $20. When I hooked it up, I found the the knob now controlled the fan speed, like it should. There were four speeds from slow to fast. There was no "off" speed - One of the other controls in the system is used to turn the entire system off, including the fan.

    However, I found that the fan sometimes did not come on at all. On some mornings, I found that the fan would have a sluggish start, and througout the day it was unpredictable as to whether it would start at all after it was turned off. I again disconnected the negative wire to the car battery. There are pictures of the replacement fan (blower motor) on the internet, so I looked at those to determine what I would be looking for in the car. The fan/blower motor is located next to the resistor, nearer to the passenger door. It is important to note that none of the repairs required removal of the dash board at all.

    The blower motor is attached to the car by three bolts the same size as the two connecting the resistor. I removed the 3 and then the entire housing, motor and squirrel cage fell out easily in one piece. The dealer wanted about $170 for a replacement motor. And probably would have wanted a few hundred more for the labor to install it. At an auto parts store, I found a replacement motor and housing by Four Seasons for $40. I had to remove the squirrel cage from the original motor and put it on the replacement. The people in the auto parts store helped - and told me it is called a squirrel cage. To keep the squirrel cage locked on the motor's axle, I got a replacement clamp in Home Depot for $1, made exactly the right size. I assume the axle is a standard size as the old and new clamps were exactly the same diameter. I suppose I could have re-used the old clamp, but I bent it a little when I removed it to remove the squirrel cage. I reattached the new housing/motor to the car, using the 3 bolts and a couple of guiding posts that remained in the car. I reconnected the wiring harness to the motor and re-attached the plastic panel.

    The entire system now works fine.

    The original motor/housing has a "gutter" designed to deliver air to the motor to keep it cool. Unfortunately, as water appears in the system from time to time, whether from the weather or from air conditioning condensation, the "gutter" delivers water to the motor instead of the intended air. You can see evidence of the water as stains on the inside of the housing and as rust on the metal motor. The Four Seasons motor/housing design is superior compared to the original. It has separate holes on the inside and outside of the motor to deliver the cooling air. Plus it has a separate hole, nowhere near the motor, for allowing any unwanted moisture to exit the system. The only drawback in this superior design is that you will hear a little more of the motor noise due to the fact that some of the holes open into the passenger compartment. On the original motor/housing the motor was completely sealed away from the passenger compartment via the plastic housing. The added noise is, I think, a small price to pay for a motor that will work. The noise is audible only at the two slow fan speeds, as the air drowns out the noise at higher speeds. And with the CD playing and road noise, it is not much of a factor at all.

    Happy Motoring to you all. And keep your repairs safe by always disconnecting the car's battery!
  • bevcbevc Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for the Tip!!! I tried it and appears to solve the problem. Was just getting ready to go to the Dealer!
  • bevcbevc Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Mercury Sable and have been plagued with similar "maoning, rubbing, hummy sound. Problem is it only seams to happen in the Morning or wet weather and then stops. I've complianed for years only to get a strange look as I can never get it to do it for diagnosis! Any tips advise directions would be appreciateD
  • bevcbevc Member Posts: 3
    There MUST be an answer for this!
    I have my car since new! I have always been plagued with a strange humming groaning noise when turning left or right, usually out of parking in AM. Seams to come from the front, others have heard it says rear? Mostly happens when vehicle first is started or wet weather... then after driving it stops! Every Dealer I have spoken to is very
    aloof with the matter as I usually cant get the car to make the noise for diagnosis. Other than the noise... I love my Car!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome!
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    My wife's Taurus has about 65k on it, mostly trouble free amazingly enough, but I realized that just about every car I ever owned has been a 4-banger that needed a timing belt change around now. I looked through the documentation and see nothing about a timing belt, but then again, my 95 Escort had a "lifetime" timing belt that left me stranded at 84k miles (thank goodness for positive clearance!)

    Getting back to the Taurus, it's an 03 with the 3 liter V6. Nothin' special, just the plain jane stock engine. That doesn't have a timing belt, right?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Right. It has a chain.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Beauty. Thanks.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    Does a 2002 Ford Taurus SES sedan with Vulcan engine have struts at all 4 wheels or just front struts and rear shocks?
    There seems to be a debate on this. Different answers from different people.

    What is typical life expectancy before need of replacement?
    Should they be replaced for "wear" or only for failure?
    Are aftermarket replacements such as Monroe from Sears or Firestone better or worse than the standard OEM struts/shocks?
  • tricon7tricon7 Member Posts: 1
    I've never changed the fuel filter in my 1997 Mercury Sable, but it's sure in need now. Where is it located and if I've never done it, is it something I could tackle or best left to a shop? I'm not terribly mechanically inclinded, though I'll try it if I think I can do it. I can't drive the vehicle to a place, as it really isn't getting power above 10 mph. I need to pick up the part if possible.

    Any ideas?
  • nonmechanicnonmechanic Member Posts: 1
    My son's 1995 Ford Taurus will not shut off! Last night, I had to pull a fuse to get it to shut off. Even at that, the engine died, but the radio and other lights were on, so I pulled a battery wire off as well. As it is running, you can move the key back to the off position and pull the key out, and the car keeps running. When I put the fuse back and hook the battery up, I can start it again, but then it won't stop again. I replaced the ignition lock mechanism (where the key goes into), but still the same problem. It'll run without the key!
    :confuse:
  • jaw3jaw3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a code 171 and 174 (system too lean, bank 1 and 2). I replaced the fuel filter as a friend told me. I reset the code by taking the battery loose. I drove about 50 miles, highway and in town, starting and stopping the engine several times. When it sat overnight the sensor light came on again this morning, any ideas?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Here you go, easy job. Click on any of the diagrams for a full screen picture:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- a/e5/9b/0900823d801ae59b.jsp
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Time to find out why it's running lean. First, check fuel pressure with a proper fuel pressure gauge. If it's ok, start looking for vacuum leaks. The PCV valve grommet is a usual suspect. If it's ok, check for any split, cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses. Also make sure there are no cracks in the air ducting from the mass airflow sensor to the throttle body, and the ducting is fully seated at both ends. If nothing is found, might have leaking intake manifold gaskets. Bet bet for diagnosing that is a shop with a smoke machine.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    It has struts at all four wheels.

    My experience is they will usually be good for at least 100K miles and maybe much more.

    Usually you can tell when they are getting bad on any car when the car starts to wallow and continue to bounce a while after going over dips and road undulations. The exception may be on most Buicks of older than current design, and larger Toyotas-Camries and Avalons, where the suspension is quite underdamped by intent to produce that soft mushmobile ride.
  • manning01manning01 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Ford taurus is blinking a 4 followed by a 2 code several times than stays on. So assume it's code 42 I checked the horn and cruise and they work so I can assume the slider connection "clock spring is okay". Does anyone have an idea what is causing this fault. I don't have access to the code discription and no work has been done on the car since I got it 2 years ago "no problems untill now". Any help would be greately appreciated.... :confuse:
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    There was some cupping on a tire and the tire shop said that is a sign one of the shocks is bad.
    Car had about 40,000 miles at first sign of tire cupping and tire only had about 10,000 miles. The tire is noisy at about 40mph and there is a very slight thumping vibration felt in the steering wheel at that speed. Feels almost like driving with a small pebble stuck on the tire.

    The car does not drift right or left, so it seems wheel alignment is fine.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    One thing I've learned about Fords (and really, cars in general) is that it pays to balance and rotate the tires regularly. If you've been doing that, then perhaps there is a suspension problem.

    If you haven't rotated or balanced, you may have just let a small imbalance propagate to the point where it ruined the tire and may need to replace some tires. But if you have rotated and balanced, then yeah, it could be a suspension part such as a strut.

    My wife's 03 Taurus has 65,000 miles on the original tires and aside from a little more road noise (which may be from the tires or perhaps the wheel bearings), they are still in amazing condition. No wobbles, no bumps, and still decent tread (5/32"). I've never seen original equipment tires last so long.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    The tires are balanced and rotated every 5,000 miles, so that wasn't the problem.
    The factory tires were pretty evenly worn out by 30,000 miles and were too slick on wet roads, so I replaced them at that point.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Probably suspension wear then.
  • 1jeff1jeff Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Taurus that has been a GREAT car until now. Now it has 149000 miles on the original motor and tranny and has an electrical issue. The car can be off and the headlights will turn on by their self. I first thought that it was a problem with the aftermarket remote start and keyless entry that I had put on the car 5 yrs. ago but now I am not sure. The only way to get the lights to go off is to disconnect the battery. I am thinking about installing a cut off switch and not spending the money to have a dealership or mechanic trouble shoot the problem. Any thoughts?
  • 1jeff1jeff Member Posts: 2
    Just an FYI for anyone else that runs into this problem. I found out that my car was from Canada and then started looking for the daytime running light fuse and found it. Upon removal the lights went off so that is the fix for me and it was free.
  • optiknurveoptiknurve Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the oil in my taurus, and notice that the fuel filter needs changed. Now the car barely starts, runs fine once it is started. But starts really sluggish. Could that be associated with the fuel filter or injector? thanks :sick:
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    How did you "notice" that the fuel filter needs changing?

    I don't quite understand your post. Did you change the fuel filter and now it barely starts? Changing the fuel filter should not affect how the car starts, assuming you put the new one in with the fuel flow direction arrow pointing the right direction and there are no leaks at the connectors.
  • bcamarobcamaro Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone,
    I have a 1987 Ford Taurus GL 3.0 with A/C. My heater stopped working and is making an alarming clanging noise when I go over bumps or around corners. Normally, I would not care about such things, but considering that I live in Seattle where it's about forty degrees, I care quite a bit. My car generates enough heat at freeway spped to keep the windows from fogging up, but when I sit in traffic I can't avoid it. My question is this.....I can get the heater core diagonosed for about 100 bucks, which will tell me if it's the motor or relay. Or, I can buy the motor and install it myself for about 50 bucks, but it seems like a difficult process, considering I need to go in through the glovebox. Or I can take it some place to have the repairs done, but since my car is only worth about 600 bucks, is it really worth it? Has anyone had similar problems? What did you do to resolve it? Any help or advice would be great.
    Thanks.
  • colec06colec06 Member Posts: 1
    i hit a curb the other day with front driver tire, ended up crackin rim nd buying a whole new set of tires and rims. well when i put the new rims and tires on my car both front tires were faceing in is it the alignment or could it be something more serious
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If you can visually see that your front wheels are "facing in", you must have done serious structural damage to the front suspension. I would guess you have a problem that is going to required replacement of suspension components as you bent a lot of them.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Is your heater fan not working? If it is just the fan, you should be able to replace the fan fairly inexpensively, though I have never had to replace one on my Tauri, so I am not sure how tough it is to access it.

    The heater core if it failed it is either plugged or leaking. I am puzzled about what is "clanging", it normally wouldn't be a sign of the heater core failing! Maybe it is the squirrel cage on your fan that is loose, indicating the fan is worn out?
  • bill_hbill_h Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've EXACTLY the same problem with my '98 Taurus and like you say, at night, it's a pain. I suspect the problem is in the LF switch, but I haven't yet addressed it.

    How has your fix using WD40 worked out?
  • savethelandsavetheland Member Posts: 671
    Hi, I own '02 Sable Premium with Duratec. It has 60K freeway miles. Not problems so far and only one recall (something related to wires for brake lights) that was performed during 30K service. And also during this service they fixed engine "tapping" noise per tech bulletin under warranty (required re-torque one of camshafts). So I did not have any inconveniences or problems with this car for 3.5 years. At 30K service they gave me loaner and at 60K service I got rental with discount (Ford Mustang convertible for $30 and I loved it!) because I performed some of services by myself and they give loaner only if they perform all services. Yeah, and all Conties are still in perfect shape – may last probably another 30K. I cannot say that they brake perfectly under wet conditions, but stock tires are always cost saving long serving tires. Brake pads and rotors look like they can last another 60K. Car more than worth the price I paid for it.

    Now why I still write to this forum? I perform some services myself and couldn’t find PCV. I have pictures where it should be located (under throttle body) but surprised not be able to find it. Pictures are from older Taurus Duratec (may be ’98). Did they change a PCV location on 2000+ models? Thank you.
  • samsonl310samsonl310 Member Posts: 1
    Its located underneath the passenger side back door... almost directly underneath... if you have already purchased the part.. just look underneath, and you'll see pretty much the same piece underneath..
    as far as chaning it.. its one of the fastest, easiest things to do... but can become a little messy.. :P
    youll have two connectors to it... just unfasten the clamps at both ends, and pull the two apart.. then connect your new one on the same way you took the old one off... simple as that... trust me it will be alot easier to see and do, then to have it explained in to much detail... but if you have ever changed your oil filter, its even easier and faster than that...:) good luck
  • afw1957afw1957 Member Posts: 1
    I have a sable 2001 with 96,000 miles on it, its now started to feel like that I'm on a wash board road or that I have driven over something in the road, going to take it to the shop but dont want to get ripped of either. Thanks for your time
  • paperpusher1paperpusher1 Member Posts: 1
    I hope I'm posting in the proper thread.

    My 2002 Ford Taurus wagon has a 200 milli amp electrical leak that won't quit. I've pulled each of the fuses and the leak is still there. At first, I thought my problem was the OEM battery, but a new, recharged battery quickly wore down. That's when I discovered the leak. I clearly need help.
  • rbean20rbean20 Member Posts: 1
    I've been having a similar (but more specific) problem with my stereo system in my 98 Taurus. The radio's audio will cut out, but the display will stay on. Then, after a while, the entire radio will cut out, display and all. It appears to be fairly intermittent, with the radio returning to 'normal' for a day or so, and then the cycle repeats. I've replaced the radio, but the problem still occurs. I'm guessing that it's something in the electrical system outside the radio itself, or perhaps the Taurus radio has a problem? Any help would be appreciated!
  • fordtaurus93fordtaurus93 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Taurus Wagon GL, 3.0 V6.

    Is what I am observing on my temperature gauge normal or symptomatic of a problem?

    1) From a cold start the temperature on the gauge will rise to between the MA of NORMAL and then quickly fall to the N and then rise again.
    2) Once warmed up, On highway, it will read between the NO of normal.
    3) In city, I have seen it go has high as A then drop to the middle. In city I have also seen it not exceed the R.

    Is this normal or symptomatic of an underlying problem.

    Some notes: The radiator was replaced as well as the thermostat.

    Thanks to all for a prompt response.
  • igggieigggie Member Posts: 1
    help i need the location of the egr valve on a ford taurus 1990
  • ants56ants56 Member Posts: 1
    Hey,

    I've got the same problem with my car. Were you able to resolve it? Any advice?
  • leosinsleosins Member Posts: 1
    :cry: I have a 1999 Mercury Sable Wagon and found out my only working brake light is the high one on the gate. I was looking for access to check bulbs but could not find any. It puzzles me that Ford makes such simple task like bulb change a dealer issue. Anyway, if anybody knows how to get to lower bulbs, I would appreciate info.

    Thanks Leo
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Open the liftgate, remove the 2 screws from the inboard side of the light housing, and remove it.
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