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Comments
There was a recall on Taurus'/Sables that required the installation of some kind of shield above or around the front springs. I believe it was a corrosion issue and was designed to keep the spring from puncturing a front tire should it break. Don't know if 1999 was included in that recall. I had to have the same shields installed on a Contour and Mystique that I owned due to a similar recall. There were a number of complaints about the noise if they were not installed correctly. Some of them appeared here in the Forum. I experienced the problem on the Mystique and got it corrected. I have not had the shields installed on my Sable because I had the springs and struts replaced at 140,000, and didn't want the aggravation. (Eventually I will have them done due to it being a safety issue.) If you've had them installed on your Taurus, you might have them checked. I don't think it is the cause of the popping noises when applying the brakes, but it may be the cause during turning.
I've also had front & rear stabilizer and stabilzer link repairs done. Those can make popping noises too, but it looks like you had stabilizer bars done. Front or rear, or both?
Good luck.
I'm fixing a car for one of my buddies, he drive a '92 mercury sable with 200 something miles on it. He told me the other day that it shut down on him while he was driving and he pulled over on the road. When he got it back to his house, he couldnt get it to turn over, now it the ignition wont even start. He said he fixed the Fuel filter, i assume it's the EEC, but i don't know. If you guys have any ideas lemme know--schools out in a few weeks and he has to drive it home. Thanks!
Here's another challenge for you. Under the hood there is a rattling noise, one mechanic said that it is the AC compressor. However, the strangest thing happens. I can crank the car and leave it in park and the car won't make the noise. I put it in gear, leave the AC off and it will make the noise. Put it back in park and the noise will stop. Okay....I can turn the AC on while in park and it will make the noise. It also makes the noise while in gear with the AC on. In short, it will make the noise when the AC is on and when the car is in gear.
Also, the check engine light is on. We had a mechanic use a computer to find out why, said we needed a new EGR valve. We replaced the EGR valve per instructions and then reset the light by unhooking the battery. Lo and behold, it's back on!
I know...I need a new car, but I really need this car to last another year and a half. I'll graduate from college then and have more money to spend.
The things that push the hood up are worn out and don't work. What I do to get my hood open is, pull the hood release like you did, and then on the vehile grab the hood at the top (where the windshild wipers are located), slip your hand under the hood and pull up, then go to the front and do the normal relase at the center.
Mary
Las Vegas, Nevada
It sounds like you have been to more than one mechanic with the problems you have mentioned. An honest mechanic that you can put complete faith in is worth his weight in gold! I have someone like that, and he now does everything for me. I am finished with car dealerships and big chain repair shops that advertise "low price specials" on mufflers to brakes, to anything else, and then hit you with all the extras you need that weren't included in that low price! When my mechanic says I need something, I know it needs it.
Back to your problems. You will have to hook up again to the car's computer to find out what code has been tripped with this latest "check engine lite". (I'm not a mechanic, but I thought clearing the codes took more than just disconnecting the battery. I may be wrong there.)
You mentioned the passenger side strut had been repaired along with a turn plate. Were these replaced or just repaired in some way? Struts and springs don't last forever. If yours are original at 150K miles, they could be making some noise when turning, maybe even during braking. Hard to say from where I sit. When it's time to replace them though, I would replace them in pairs; front or back, not one side without the other. I did springs and struts at 140K, along with lower ball joints. Total cost was around $900 if I remember right. A lot of money, but I'm planning on keeping the car for several more yrs. Don't bother putting that kind of money into it unless they're broken or absolutely need replacing.
I would search out that "honest" mechanic if you don't have one. Ask around and see if you can get a good referal from someone; maybe a teacher. They are permanent residents in the community.
Sorry I could not be of more help.
I have a 2001 SES w/almost 113K on it, and my serpentine belt is starting to crack a little. I usually go to Auto Zone and have (3) choices on a belt:
1. Valucraft - $19.99
2. Duralast - $26.99
3. Goodyear Gatorback (special rib design) - $33.99
Which one should I get? This car runs FABULOUS and plan on keeping it for at least another 80,000 miles (when the tires wear out), and have taken care of this car meticulously. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks!
- Alex
P.S. A relative or friend will install the belt for me.
Thanks, Dave
Here's a company that does disk brake conversions...
Call em' up they probably have something that would work with your car.
Stainless Steel Brakes, Dept. MF
(716) 759-8666
(800) 448-7722
(716) 759-8688 Fax
www.ssbrakes.com
:confuse:
Is the starter going in this model common? Could it be something else. The car dash lights turn on, but the car does not turn over. Comments or suggestions are appreciated.
Kevin
Regarding batteries, my dad and I have both owned Ford products for yrs, and the original batteries consistently last only 2 to 3 yrs. I live in the mid-west; he lives down south. If yours is still the original battery, have it checked along with your entire charging system so you get the right parts replaced.
Again, thanks.
Kevin
As long as you do not go over temperature any more, everything sounds like it is behaving as designed.
Before I look at it -- I wanted to get opinions on the vehicle from people who have owned the car. How is the reliability? Have there been common problems or complaints? What should I look out for?
On the surface I know it would be a safe car, and it is in her price range. But she is heading off to college and I dont want her to have a vehicle that is going to be a maintenance beast! At least I would like her to have a car that would last 3-4 years until a 100,000 miles or so.
I am open to other suggestions for other vehicles as well -- I'd like her to get a Honda or Toyota -- but for $3000 or so, all I see are cars with 150K miles.
My thanks in advance for all your help and opinions?
The major problems with the Taurus of that vintage is transmission trouble and engine head gasket failure. Ask the Grandma that you are buying the car from if either the head gaskets have been replaced or if transmission work has been done.
Nobody on this forum can advise you as to whether or not that particular car is a good one or not. Used cars are a bit of a gamble. Maybe you'll get a good one. Or maybe you'll have repair after repair. If you or your daughter are not willing to do some of the work yourself then that $3k car may cost you quite a bit more.
On the other hand, young drivers tend to have little fender benders. Maybe a cheap car won't hurt so much when it gets its' inevitable dents.
Transmissions? Maybe somewhat of a weak point, but I know of a lot of people with well over 100K miles with no problems. Get the fluid changed and you will probably be OK for at least another 30K miles.
You can't buy much for $3K these days. If it is in good shape and driven by a Grandma, go for it. It likely was not abused and may even have been overmaintained, depending on Grandma's personality!
That said,96-99 Taurus are a bargain. Both available engines will give almost 30mpg on the highway. Drivelines are stout and parts are readily available. There are many of these cars out there with well over 100000 mi.
My 93 has over three times as many miles-still drives me to work everyday. Everything works too. One of the most economical cars I have ever owned.
I am now looking for other possible causes.
Less than 2000.....if everything works???? How can you go wrong. Have the car checked out.
My old 93 still runs strong. 30+ mpg too.
If it's in good condition now and is only going to be driven low additional mileage by your daughter, it should be fine for some time.
Exterior appearances can be deceiving. Years of neglect can be covered up or hidden with a professional detailing and an engine cleaning. (I know. I'm very good at that.) Interiors are another matter tho. Stains, carpet & upholstery wear, and just overall appearance can tell you a lot about the previous owner. Most of these things can not be covered up, short of re-upholstering or putting new carpeting in, but who does that?
My 2000 Sable will turn 170K in a couple of weeks. I'm told by everyone who rides in it that it still smells like new! Not sure why that is, but I know it still looks like new because I've taken the steps needed to keep it that way, and that will be obvious to the next owner. When it comes time to sell, I will also be able to provide a complete maintenance record from the day it was new along w/ any receipt they would like to see. When I tell them the transmission fluid was changed every 35,000 miles and have the receipts to prove it, they can buy the car with a little more peace of mind than something they have found on a used car lot with similar miles. Can my transmission go out the day they drive it away? Sure. But it's less likely.
I am actually planning on giving the car to my daughter in a couple of yrs, knowing I would never be able to find a comparable car for the $1000 or $2000 I could afford to spend. That would be my advice to you if you can do it. Give her a car you've had in the family and know the history of, and get something new for yourself.