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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • tcdodgetcdodge Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem now and i was wondering was it the eec.
  • bambigilionbambigilion Member Posts: 1
    Hi there. I`m trying to replace my front headlights on my 2001 Taurus SES with Silverstar Ultra`s. Does any one know how to do this as I don`t have a manual? I don`t know whether to take the whole thing out or attack it from the back.(Batteries in the way on drivers side.)Any help would be appreciated,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks.
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    I'm in England and brought my first Taurus some years ago and still own them now, my firsts Taurus was an 86 SW with a 2.5 engine. I only sold it as it was under powered but in that time never had a single problem with sold it wit 75.000 miles on the clock, then brought a 19888 LX 3.8 with 45.000 miles, only problem I had with this was a broken engine mount (brought with the broken mount)replaced it twice which broke again again I put this down to three problems . One mount made in Isrial, one in India not quality. This problem could have been over come with a shock fitted across the top of the engine due to the amount of pull from the engine lurching forward when D is selected.
    I then brought from fords an engine mount fitted to the Ford Transit commercial panel van which was almost identical, no more problems, I sold the carwith 95.000 mile and had no problems other than the mount, I also did a lot of towing with it with no averse affects. I then brought a 1992 SW wagon 3.0 55.000 mile and again did a a lot of towing (caravan 18 cwt) recently sold it with 97.000 mile up and not a single problem with it. I have now just brought a 1998 3.0 sedan which drive great though I can't seem to get the heater to work. Pipes in and out of the matrix are very hot and the fan switch only blows on maximum and I think the heater control is not working (any help there will be appreciated). I like the Taurus, maybe I have just been lucky and to get repairs and parts in England can be very expensive.
    warhorse1
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    My son in law brought a Taurus which had the same symtoms and slowly got worse, that was indeed the pump, what happens is the pump overheats due to a fault but as it is in the tank it is a built in saftey measure to prevent it getting to hot and causing a fire / explosion so the pump shuts down. Pain in the neck to do if you have a lot of fuel in the tank as the tank has to be dropped and the unit taken out from the top of the tank. Access could have been made in the trunk floor by Fords to make this easy to remove it with out taking the tank out. You only need to change the pump unit but these aren't cheap, your looking at $200 + your side, If you don't sort it you will find it will just keep cutting out on highway driving and it takes longer to start and becomes more frequent. Before you pull out the tank just check your vacume pipes, spilt in one will have a similar effect but restarting isn't a problem. I shipped one in from your side of the pond and no more problems. hope this helps.
    warhorse1 U.K.
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    Dave
    Lee in England, yes I did my son in laws 88 Taurus heater core, I didn't follow all of Haynes guidlines, as I remember undo all the top screws below the wind screen, bolts at the bottom of the passengers side of the dash, you will find it easier if you drop the steering colum, feel your way around what needs to be freed to pull the dash out enough to get to the core, remember its in its own casing it can be fiddly but can be done in a morning if you don't mind becoming a rubber man to get in the right position, not the best of jobs but not so bad, putting back is easy making sure you don't pull any wires of and those you do go
    back, good luck. I did this one some six years ago so can't remember all of how I did it.
    Lee
    warhorse1
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    I'm having the same problem, haven't had time to look further as its garaged, you could try sprinkling Talcom powder all around the rubber seal then checking next time it rains, if the seal is leaking the water will wash of the powder where the water is getting in, let me know if you find.
    Lee U.K.
  • shelleybeanshelleybean Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 ford taurus wagon. I'm having the same problem with my coolant light. after driving it for about 20 min. the low coolant light comes on, i've got plenty of coolant. It's done it since I bought it about a year ago. Though after reading the forums about it, it seems all I need is a 30$ resovoir. I've mentioned this problem to my mechanic many times and he says not to worry about it, that its just a sensor. but if it were a silly 30$ part why wouldn't he just recommend I replace it? Is it something I can ignore? also, I just spent 647$ replacing my entire brake line system! Fun!

    p.s. My retractable antenna is stuck. It won't retract anymore. when I turn the car off, I can hear the little motor whurring, but the antenna stays put. the radio still works, is it worth fixing?
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    My guess is the nylon cord inside the antenna is broken, this is attached to the top of the antenna on the inside and the motor coils it up on retraction, whether you can replace it I don't know, my guess is a new antenna.
    Lee U.K.
  • cindycarsoncindycarson Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 99 SHO with the low collant light on all the time. I'll order a new resovoir per your feedback. Thanks.
  • cindycarsoncindycarson Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Taurus SHO with a dead battery, the keys in the car and with a dead battery the keyless entry doesnt work. Any idea how I can get the hood open from outside the car? Then I could charge the battery. Thanks!
  • smitty24smitty24 Member Posts: 7
    Where are the high and low AC pressure connectors to add freon located on a 95 Taurus?
  • smitty24smitty24 Member Posts: 7
    After my 95 Taurus has warmed up, shifting from first to second I get a hard thump. The rest of the shifting is smooth. It does not do this at the beginning, I guess when the oil is cold. Once it warms up, I get this hard shifting from 1st to 2nd. Any suggestions? Thanks...
  • mamtaurusmamtaurus Member Posts: 3
    The low pressure connector is near the firewall on the passenger side near the accumulator. High pressure is up front near the rad on same side.
  • smitty24smitty24 Member Posts: 7
    mamtuarus, thanks for the reply. Can anyone tell me where the a/c low pressure switch is located on the 95 Taurus? Thanks...
  • nbpt100nbpt100 Member Posts: 7
    Have the transmission fluid changed if you have not recently and add a bottle of Lubeguard to the tranny. It may smooth it out.
  • nbpt100nbpt100 Member Posts: 7
    One common source is the rear window seal leaking. In this case you will likely have to go to a glass shop to get the gasket replaced or window resealed.

    Another place to look is behind the tail light fixtures. Seals and seams may have some cracks or openings.

    If you have a garden hose carefully spray one area at a time and check the trunk. You will have to remove the liner to completly inspect.

    If you have a friend that trusts you.... this friend could get in the trunk with a flash light and observe as you spray the outside with water.
    Don't
  • nbpt100nbpt100 Member Posts: 7
    This car has 4 total O2 sensors. Double check to make sure you replaced the correct sensors. I know they are hard to reach and expensive. You could flip them around and see if the problem goes away. Also, If you still have the old ones ,the Ford fuel injection manual explains how to test them with a multimeter.

    Also, you could add a bottle of Guaranteed to PASS (available at most good parts stores) to the gas tank. Follow the instructions and reset the codes.

    Good Luck
  • nbpt100nbpt100 Member Posts: 7
    Make sure you use distilled water in the mixing. Don't use tap water.

    You can now buy it already with a 50/50 mixture as a convenience. You pay more but you may find it worth it.

    It can be tricky to get all of the air out of the system. Squeeze the upper rad hose as it is running with the cap off. Make sure you check it frequently for a few day after to make sure. Top off as required.
  • riickriick Member Posts: 1
    I had an '87 LS, :cry:
    When lites blew out, just got some sockets & bulbs (old style, brass base bulbs) for backup lights from PepBoys - maybe $2-$4/socket today.

    Reamed out plastic where lites fit-in, (actually used soldering iron to elarge the holes - quicker) wired-in new sockets in place of old, slip into place....voila!

    Cost - 30-min - 1 hr time, $20+/- (?). Not quite as bright since OEM bulb is halogen (?) but still just fine. :D:D
  • gtuplingtuplin Member Posts: 4
    What happened with your transmission? Mine is doing the same thing (started on Nov 19). 95 Mercury Sable, 3.0 litre. Transmission AX4N. I changed the transmission fluid and is a bit smoother but a mechanic said it will eventually fail.
  • mr_almr_al Member Posts: 9
    I think I am having a similar or almost the same feature on my car. (I have a 2000 LS Premium Sedan). The Auto sensor seems to be working as everything comes on BUT the headlights. I have to turn the light on at night manually. After driving this car for 6 years, this is going to be an old habit to break as I do not want to drive down the roads here in VA thinking the headlights are on as everything else (brakes, inside cluster/interior; side lights, etc). Just no headlights. I am unable to get a straight answer from two dealers and cannot find a manual to track the electrical. Anyone have any ideas? Car just hit 70K miles on it. Have learned that these cars suck for keeping alignments. New 6OK miles tires one is shot. Appreciate any help if anyone has found a solution to this. I am confident I will NOT buy another revised model year(this case, 2000 changed from the 96-99) and my 96 was a lemon and a half. Alan Deyoe, Chesapeake, VA :sick:
  • jrockitjrockit Member Posts: 1
    i have the same issue with my 03 sable. i took the fan out and jumped it. it works fine. any help on this is appreciated.
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    I had the same problem recently but finaly located the problem. Due to the shape of the trunk below below the rear window and acts as a cradle for water which will accumilate in the dip of the shape if the car is not park on a flat surface (facing up a slope) in my case water had gathered there and had entered the trunk by coming up under the seal over the metal frame. New seal has cured my problem.
    Lee U.K.
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    1995 Mercury Sable GS, 3.0L. Bought 2 days ago from private owner. Both in town or highway the needle bounces constantly between 15 to 20 above and below, going with traffic flow. The tach works. What's up and how to fix?
    Dane
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    Previous owner just emailed me the vehicle does have ABS, brake work, engine tuned.

    So, lithium grease and sensor unit?

    Dane
  • rpacrpac Member Posts: 83
    I own a 1995 Ford Taurus, 190,000 miles. Recently I blew the head gasket. Had everything changed professionally, gaskets, water pump,etc etc. Now, every time I hit a big bump the 'check engine light' comes on for a few minutes, then goes out. Car runs fine. No problems except for light. What could be happening? The place that repaired my car does'nt have a clue.:confuse:
  • dasildasil Member Posts: 1
    PLEASE IF ANY ONE HAS THE SECUENCY OF THE DRIVE BELT, I WAS CHANGING THE ALTERNATOR AND I DO KNOW HOW THE BELT GOES, CAN ANY BODY HELP ME WITH THE DIAGRAM?
    THANKS
  • pepper4pepper4 Member Posts: 10
    Hi
    I change my coolant every year and i am on my 3rd heater core, Any idea why my heater cores go bad i have 153,705 miles on it. What size are the speakers in the front doors
    on my 94 Sable. :(
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone have information about this speedometer?

    Dane
  • nbpt100nbpt100 Member Posts: 7
    The tube connections coming thru the fire wall are a weakness in this design. I bet you removed the heater hose when you flushed the cooling system. In the future, Dont touch these hoses unless you must. And then cut the hose off with a knife being very careful not to put too much stress on the heater tube. Also you don't need to change the coolant that often. Check the owners manual. Make sure you use distilled water and not tap water when mixing the coolant/antifreeze. Tap water has too many electrolytes causing an electrolosys situation, accelerating corrosion.
  • jes070663jes070663 Member Posts: 2
    I have a wobble I believe is coming from the transmission at 40 mph to 65 mph. Feels like an unballanced wheel, but wobble stops placed in nuetral. Any suggestions?
  • greydragongreydragon Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Taurus. When it is cold outside the dash lights will not come on. Only the turn indicators come on. After about 45 minutes the dash light finaly come on. When this first started last year ot took a couple of minutes now this year it takes close to 45 minutes. Can any one out there help??
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    Sounds like good advice on the hose connectors. I also changes the radiator cap to a low pressure model and it stopped the leaking problem without any adverse reactions to summer cooling.
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    any chance you got an answer to this?
    I have the same problem at 120k on a 2001. I just had new tires put on so I will check that but I also notice an engine vibration at 2000rpm so I am changing plugs & wires.
    Anybody? Beuller?
  • taurus_no_funtaurus_no_fun Member Posts: 1
    I have a Ford Taurus 2000, 65K millage. My heater fails to work last month. The dealer changed the heat core and flush the radiator, then it worked for two weeks. Yesterday, when I drove on the highway, the engine temperature indicator suddenly went to zero and engine light was on. There was no heat after half a minute. But if I stopped for several minutes with engine starting, the temperature will go back to normal and heat will be back also.
    Is something wrong with the thermostats? Or radiator?
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    Where can I find one?

    Dane
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    I had the same problem with my 98 Taurus and tried the things you did, first symtoms like yours then completely no heat. I took out the radio this can be done with four thin electrical screw drivers assuming your heater hasn't changed in style in that short time of models, remove the small metal cover over the heater door arms then with engine running operate both the heater control switch (red and blue) and and the AC control swtitch, make sure they are travelling around to the correct position. In my case after you remove the metal cover you can see the plastic door motor ( you may have to struggle a bit to see it,) if the same as mine it will in the center have a small indented sqaure, watching this the square will move from leaning to the right and should travel to lean over to the left. If it only moves to the upright position as mine was the heater door is not opening to allow the heat thru, if it doesn't move at all then its an electrical problem as mine is , I disconnected the plug from the switch and jumped it. There are three wires onthe plug the first on the left is earth, I had to run a tempory wire from the battery to test but found the motor moved in both directions. Hope this helps.
    Lee U.K.
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    What's this got to do with finding a 95 Sable owner's manual?
  • mywreckmywreck Member Posts: 5
    For about a month now, once a day or more when driving slow (but engine warm, not cold), the dash lights and radio blink off, some warning lights come on, and it feels like the engine might stall, but it doesn't. Headlights stay on (if they were on). Only lasts for a second, and then everything is back to normal. It usually occurs when going very slow like coming into a parking space and no foot on the gas.

    Another possibly related symptom: yesterday, after starting the car back up after getting gas, I noticed the radio and heater weren't on (which they were when I stopped), and I had to reset the clock.

    I had the battery and charging system chekced out, and they appear fine. Anyone else had something like this???
  • ohio7ohio7 Member Posts: 67
    OK, twice now I've read that someone has talked about "puddle" lights. At first I thought that it was a misspelling (it seems that a lot of folks don't do spell check or reread their posts and we have to guess what it is they are trying to say) until I saw it posted later. This is new term to me. Exactly where are these lights in relation to a Taurus? I have a 2000 SEL. Mileage is up to 34,000+.
  • iamrealiamreal Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem in my 97 wagon... started after I held the accelerator down and cranked the key.I think I flooded it as well cause I smelled gas :mad: Can you tell me where that valve is located? I have been running out to my car all day now to see if it still cranks !!! :surprise: LOL
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    They are lights under the side view mirrors that light up when you unlock the doors. They illuminate the street/sidewalk area next to the front doors so you can see if you are going to step into a puddle when you enter and exit the car at night.
  • rectacrectac Member Posts: 4
    s
    s
    same here same year.cannot find gave up.
  • rectacrectac Member Posts: 4
    You are doin just fine. you should be grateful to the work the excellent tech did to keep it running. That lite is so minor . further, a hundred hrs might be needed to chase the thousands of possible connections that can cause it.
    That tech is not clueless, you just have to put up with a little lump here and there. Be happy at 190k and give a tip and praise to the tech. Wow
  • moerodmoerod Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 Sable LS Premium with 112000 miles. I replaced the lower ball joints and control arms (i believe thats what they where they were white plastic bracket aboout 12" long) about a year ago, thats alll thats been changed on the front end. Now about 2 months ago i started hearing squeaking at the front of the car while driving. If i pushed up and down on the car while parked i heard the same thing. Now i also hear a squeaking when i apply the brakes (it is not the brakes they are new. I was told by a few that it could be the ball joints but my mechani says he offered no warrantee. Now as i've done some research i've seen these separator tools and such. Whn my mechanic istalled them i remeber him going at it whith a sledge harmer and pipe. needless to say i don't go to him anymore.

    Anyway i want to replace the lower ball joints myself, i'm pretty capable but just need to know what are the proper tools i will need, i'm also going to install the Monroe Quick Struts (Strut and coil assembly in one) while i'm at it.

    Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    Glad to help.
    ~23mm socket for axle nut, Female torx bit for ABS sensor ?#7?, XXX Ball joint fork to separate, ball joint puller to remove, ball joint press to install., Spring compressor for springs. tools after the xxx are rentable for 0$ from autozone when you buy the parts.
    You will need a torch to heat the joint at the control arm and in the hub assy (possibly) MAP gas at least.
    do yourself a favor- replace the hub bearing assy and axle shaft at the same time
    Remove tire, brake caliper,(13mm) support it off to the side.
    remove ABS sensor(torx bit not sure size)
    Use spring compressor to collapse spring (rent from parts store)
    Loosen axle nut ?size but its a big one maybe 23mm?
    you will nee a puller tool to push the axle out of the hub.
    (BTW I would replace the wheel hub as well as long as you have it apart)
    break the BJ loose with a screw press also from the auto parts store or use a seperator fork, but there is no going back if you use the fork, it rips the boot.
    YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED A TORCH TO HEAT THE CA JOINT FOR IT TO POP LOOSE.
    once it is separated your choice is to replace it on the car or off. If you are changing the struts than I would do it off the car.
    I am getting long winded. if you need more call. its in chiltons
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    Had the same problem and just cut it off and let it go inside the franme rail. Did not result in a noise or interfere with the new mount.
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    Sorry to see this so late but I have the sam problem. It is not a tire problem yet it occured or became noticible to me just after new tires.
    I am convinced it is a CV problem or flywheel imbalance (stretch) I would say CV except I replaced them about 4 months ago so it would have to be defective part?

    Vibration seem to be on left side, only present over 35 mph. more pronounced during accel or under load.
    anyone have some insight or a solution.
    120k on sable ls
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    This is way old but I hope it helps someone.
    I have sable and Taurus They never stayed aligned but always showed OK on the printout. It was not until I kept bring it back to ford that they got it right by adjusting the toe in. not a big deal you say. well it involves cutting welds on the top of the shock tower so nobody wants to do it. looks ugly but fixed the problem. apparently the TI is set at the factory and never expected to be adjusted.
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    I am looking for this one as well. please let me know if you hear something.
    I was thinking it might have something to do with the flywheel? I did tune the engine and the vibration subsided a little.
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