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I then brought from fords an engine mount fitted to the Ford Transit commercial panel van which was almost identical, no more problems, I sold the carwith 95.000 mile and had no problems other than the mount, I also did a lot of towing with it with no averse affects. I then brought a 1992 SW wagon 3.0 55.000 mile and again did a a lot of towing (caravan 18 cwt) recently sold it with 97.000 mile up and not a single problem with it. I have now just brought a 1998 3.0 sedan which drive great though I can't seem to get the heater to work. Pipes in and out of the matrix are very hot and the fan switch only blows on maximum and I think the heater control is not working (any help there will be appreciated). I like the Taurus, maybe I have just been lucky and to get repairs and parts in England can be very expensive.
warhorse1
warhorse1 U.K.
Lee in England, yes I did my son in laws 88 Taurus heater core, I didn't follow all of Haynes guidlines, as I remember undo all the top screws below the wind screen, bolts at the bottom of the passengers side of the dash, you will find it easier if you drop the steering colum, feel your way around what needs to be freed to pull the dash out enough to get to the core, remember its in its own casing it can be fiddly but can be done in a morning if you don't mind becoming a rubber man to get in the right position, not the best of jobs but not so bad, putting back is easy making sure you don't pull any wires of and those you do go
back, good luck. I did this one some six years ago so can't remember all of how I did it.
Lee
warhorse1
Lee U.K.
p.s. My retractable antenna is stuck. It won't retract anymore. when I turn the car off, I can hear the little motor whurring, but the antenna stays put. the radio still works, is it worth fixing?
Lee U.K.
Another place to look is behind the tail light fixtures. Seals and seams may have some cracks or openings.
If you have a garden hose carefully spray one area at a time and check the trunk. You will have to remove the liner to completly inspect.
If you have a friend that trusts you.... this friend could get in the trunk with a flash light and observe as you spray the outside with water.
Don't
Also, you could add a bottle of Guaranteed to PASS (available at most good parts stores) to the gas tank. Follow the instructions and reset the codes.
Good Luck
You can now buy it already with a 50/50 mixture as a convenience. You pay more but you may find it worth it.
It can be tricky to get all of the air out of the system. Squeeze the upper rad hose as it is running with the cap off. Make sure you check it frequently for a few day after to make sure. Top off as required.
When lites blew out, just got some sockets & bulbs (old style, brass base bulbs) for backup lights from PepBoys - maybe $2-$4/socket today.
Reamed out plastic where lites fit-in, (actually used soldering iron to elarge the holes - quicker) wired-in new sockets in place of old, slip into place....voila!
Cost - 30-min - 1 hr time, $20+/- (?). Not quite as bright since OEM bulb is halogen (?) but still just fine.
Lee U.K.
Dane
So, lithium grease and sensor unit?
Dane
THANKS
I change my coolant every year and i am on my 3rd heater core, Any idea why my heater cores go bad i have 153,705 miles on it. What size are the speakers in the front doors
on my 94 Sable.
Dane
I have the same problem at 120k on a 2001. I just had new tires put on so I will check that but I also notice an engine vibration at 2000rpm so I am changing plugs & wires.
Anybody? Beuller?
Is something wrong with the thermostats? Or radiator?
Dane
Lee U.K.
Another possibly related symptom: yesterday, after starting the car back up after getting gas, I noticed the radio and heater weren't on (which they were when I stopped), and I had to reset the clock.
I had the battery and charging system chekced out, and they appear fine. Anyone else had something like this???
s
same here same year.cannot find gave up.
That tech is not clueless, you just have to put up with a little lump here and there. Be happy at 190k and give a tip and praise to the tech. Wow
Anyway i want to replace the lower ball joints myself, i'm pretty capable but just need to know what are the proper tools i will need, i'm also going to install the Monroe Quick Struts (Strut and coil assembly in one) while i'm at it.
Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
~23mm socket for axle nut, Female torx bit for ABS sensor ?#7?, XXX Ball joint fork to separate, ball joint puller to remove, ball joint press to install., Spring compressor for springs. tools after the xxx are rentable for 0$ from autozone when you buy the parts.
You will need a torch to heat the joint at the control arm and in the hub assy (possibly) MAP gas at least.
do yourself a favor- replace the hub bearing assy and axle shaft at the same time
Remove tire, brake caliper,(13mm) support it off to the side.
remove ABS sensor(torx bit not sure size)
Use spring compressor to collapse spring (rent from parts store)
Loosen axle nut ?size but its a big one maybe 23mm?
you will nee a puller tool to push the axle out of the hub.
(BTW I would replace the wheel hub as well as long as you have it apart)
break the BJ loose with a screw press also from the auto parts store or use a seperator fork, but there is no going back if you use the fork, it rips the boot.
YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED A TORCH TO HEAT THE CA JOINT FOR IT TO POP LOOSE.
once it is separated your choice is to replace it on the car or off. If you are changing the struts than I would do it off the car.
I am getting long winded. if you need more call. its in chiltons
I am convinced it is a CV problem or flywheel imbalance (stretch) I would say CV except I replaced them about 4 months ago so it would have to be defective part?
Vibration seem to be on left side, only present over 35 mph. more pronounced during accel or under load.
anyone have some insight or a solution.
120k on sable ls
I have sable and Taurus They never stayed aligned but always showed OK on the printout. It was not until I kept bring it back to ford that they got it right by adjusting the toe in. not a big deal you say. well it involves cutting welds on the top of the shock tower so nobody wants to do it. looks ugly but fixed the problem. apparently the TI is set at the factory and never expected to be adjusted.
I was thinking it might have something to do with the flywheel? I did tune the engine and the vibration subsided a little.