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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • rmc52rmc52 Member Posts: 1
    Summer 06 my 2000 Tarus Wagon had a cracked reservor Did not overheat. Had replaced. Everything seemed fine. Then it started overflowing at reservor had new cap put on then it quit puting out heat reservor low on water then would overflow the garage says it has cracke head no milky oil. can drive 70 on interstate. at times has a slight hesatation. I have had reservor replaced again. Now not overflowing but is staying overfull. Does this sound like a cracked head any ideas? RMC52
  • iamrealiamreal Member Posts: 3
    badgerfan,where are you?LOl. Last week my 97 would only start after several attempts. After holding the accelerator to the floor. Then it would crank all day. This would happen every three days or so. Now it won't :sick: turn over at all. It cranks srong but I get nothing. Tried jumping it off as well.Starter solenoid finally went? If so, How do I find it?I am a single mom with a small baby and this really,really stinks! 3.02v
  • iamrealiamreal Member Posts: 3
    O.K.I am back with more info . Going on day three with no wheels (getting stir crazy) and had someone check to see if there was a spark to any of my plugs. There weren't,soooo now I am being told the ignition coil needs replaced .The starter is working fine and the fuel pump is working, the car cranks, but won,t turn over. Any suggestions anyone?
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    '03 Ford Taurus Sedan 3.0 Vulcan, 12L, 72K miles, haven't had too many problems, the AC wasn't working properly it was kicking on & off somtimes... it was just a faulty switch from the fuse panel under the hood, $12 at dealer, easily fixed. Now, the fan won't work right, using heater mostly now, but if I put on cool, still does same thing - fan will ONLY work on HIGH setting! Could it be the switch or something? Also, I just recently a squeling noise from the dash over on the passanger side, only makes noise when I turn the fan on, lol, on high. ANY help would work! Please! email me if your sure you know, mmcknell@amfam.com
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    I'm not sure if it's the same w/ Merc's, but I'm on my 2nd ford, and I used to have a '93 ford, and it did the same thing, couldn't figure out what it was, wouldn't turn over... well go figure, there's a fuel system shut off switch... located in a little cargo compartment in the trunk, and it had a little red button on the top, I pushed the button, and it started right up. Maybe that's it, idk? Hope it helps.
  • buffybotbuffybot Member Posts: 4
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    "The fuse panel or block is located on most vehicles covered by this manual is located to the left of the steering column tube, and is hung from the instrument panel. To gain access to the fuses, pull the release bar up with the right hand, pull the fuse panel down with the left hand, then remove the two bolts from the cover."

    Source: the Chilton Manual section 6-48.

    Now then, I bought a used 95 Sable two months ago. The radio doesn't work. Which fuse is for the radio or where is something to tell what fuse is where on that panel/block?
    I'd like a schematic.

    Dane
  • foggysailfoggysail Member Posts: 3
    My 99 Taurus fan worked only on the two highest postions until yesterday. Now it works only on the highest position. Yesterday I could smell plastic burning or at least heating inside the car.

    As I understand the fan's circuit concept, there are only two things that should cause the problem. Obviously the switch is one and the second is the resistor. I have not found this thing yet but intend to look for it tomorrow. The resistor is used to lower the voltage supplied to the fan resulting in a lower speed.

    I was told the resistor is (one, two or thee of them??) located in the engine compartment between the horn and the WS wash tank. I could not even find the horn. My Ford CD claims the resistor is located somewhere behind/below the center of the glove compartment. The resistor/s is/are most likely round, maybe ceramic with one common wire and wires provided for each fan speed other than the high speed.

    More later--

    Foggy
  • buffybotbuffybot Member Posts: 4
    There aren't any bolts on the cover that I can see...The owner's manual says to "push up on the arrow" then pull the cover out. But there isn't any arrow either!! I'll be able to tell you what fuse is for the radio in my next message..
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    thanks for the info. on the other hand, is it easy to replace the switch? What/where would this switch be to even see if it's broken, is it a electrical type switch? or literally, the switch from the dash? OR, is it more likely that the resistor is going out? I called my local auto parts store, they said they only had a relay for the blower motor, could that be what your talking about? $8 at the local auto parts. I can't even find a chilton to tell me what else this could be??? Let me know if you find anything else out.
  • rmncoknmermncoknme Member Posts: 18
    One other thing; make sure you use distilled water. If you use tap, or even soft water, galvanic corrosion will cause really fast deterioration. Use ONLY distilled water.
  • rmncoknmermncoknme Member Posts: 18
    Do NOT use heat on your front end. You will destroy the balljoint, and even if you do intend to replace it you could also damage the wheel bearing, CV joint and anything else in the neighborhood whether by burning the rubber, making the grease run away, or softening the parts by annealing out any heat treatment done to them. Torches are for people with the wrong tools. Period. I posted this about ball joints on my Sable a while ago, and it worked for me. But I think the squeal you hear is probably from the shocks; I'd suggest you just replace those first.

    #2443 of 2545 Re: lower ball joints 98 ford taurus [jrolf] by rmncoknme Aug 18, 2006 (2:56 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replying to: jrolf (Jul 29, 2006 7:35 pm)

    I have the Haynes manual; it's not in there.... So when I went to replace mine it was all by sight and feel. Anyway it worked. You'll need a press kit, I hate it when they say "bash it out, then smash the new one in". So, simple things skipped....

    Remove the wheel bearing nut, it's about 30mm (you should need a breaker bar). Jack up that side of the car, support on the frame rail where the driveshaft goes through it. Remove wheel. Remove brake pads, caliper, caliper support, disc. Loosen and remove nut on bottom of ball joint. Remove the lower part of the plastic support from the suspension (white thing about a foot long). Remove the end of the steering tie-rod from the steering knuckle (you'll probably need to press it out).

    Loosen the nuts/bolts on the lower control arm where it is attached to the frame; if you don't it's really hard to remove the other end from the balljoint stud (my trick to you).... Using a press, push the balljoint out from the control arm, so now it's just held in by being pressed into the steering knuckle.

    Get a steel pipe nipple about 2.5" long (actually get several, in 0.5" increments in this area) and 3/4" diameter, thread a cap onto that. Put that over the balljoint so it rests agains the top part of the balljoint that is pressed into the steering knuckle. Now use a press to get it out.

    Probably it's necessary to remove the steering knuckle, but at this point it is just by loosening the pinch bolt on the strut. This makes it easier to press in the new balljoint.

    For assembly, it's reverse of removal. One trick though. When tightening the nut at the bottom of the balljoint, put the car's weight on the control arm so the friction between the tapered surfaces will stop the balljoint from spinning.

    Good luck....
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    I also have an 03 Taurus. I noticed yesterday that the fan ONLY works on high. I do remember smelling rubber burning when I first drove the car in the morning. It didn't smell like wire burning, it smelled like rubber. I thought it was outside from another car at the time. Now I think something is related to the fan problem.
    I'm going to go out and have a look at things. My guess it's the resistor, but finding it isn't going to be easy, plus it is 29 degrees and I'll be in snow checking this out :-(

    Danford1
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    My 2001 had the same problem. The fan resistor caused the problem. It is a rectangular shaped piece located on the fan motor behind the glove box. It has an electrical connector to is, and if I remember right, the connector has 2 wires running to it. Lay in the passenger side floor, and you will see it. The resistor is available at your dealer, about $15.00 or so. The squealing sound may be a fan motor issue. Some Taurus' have a problem with water leaking from the the front cowl, right below the windshield wiper, which covers the cabin air filter. If this cowl piece is not sealed properly, water leaks down and gets into the fan, causing it to rust. On mine, the fan motor itself is working fine, I only had the resistor problem.
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the help. I will probably just replace this resistor and see if that fixes it. It's funny you mention the water leaking from the cowel... the winshield wiper fluid line has broken more than once, and a I just tape it closed... I will let you know if replacing the resistor fixes the problem. Thanks for all the help!
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    I found my problem. It is a bad fan switch. First I pulled the glove box (03 Taurus) then unscrewed the 2 screws holding the resistor unit in. The resistor looked good, no broken elements.
    I then pulled the radio out and unhooked the fan switch wiring harness. I used a jumper wire in the harness to varify that the fan works on all speeds. It does, so the switch is bad. I left the jumper wire hooked up to the medium speed until I get a new switch.
    The switch is only held with one screw and is very eay to change.
    Anyone know of a decent place on line to get the switch? I don't live close to any stealerships.
    Thanks.
    Danford1
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    danford1, that sounds like what I'm looking at... not literally... I would like to find a manual before I start ripping apart my dash, I guess chilton doesn't make them for an entire repair manual for an 03, do you know if haynes makes them? Or another one I could use? Also, yeah, I checked my local parts store, they said the electical fan switch is a dealer part...
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    No I don't know of any repair manuals. I haven't looked yet. This car is "new to me", I bought it used. This is the first problem I had with it.

    I did find the switch on line. I searched for 2003 Taurus heater fan switch in Yahoo. After a few picks, I found a dealer website and found the part. It was $9.92 so I ordered it. The shipping was $6.95 though. I was too lazy to try a dealer in my area so I just paid the shipping and ordered it.

    Danford1
  • buffybotbuffybot Member Posts: 4
    The radio fuse is #11 in the fusebox beside the steering wheel. Now, how do you get the cover off of the fuse box?? There aren't any bolts to remove...nor is there an arrow to "push up on" !!! Thanks for any help!
  • foggysailfoggysail Member Posts: 3
    I had the "high speed fan" problem that I fixed yesterday. It was the resistor, purchased a new one from a Ford dealer for $16-.

    I found the manuals such as Haynes to lack the details I search when trying to do repairs. What is somewhat better is a Ford Service & Repair CD-Rom. I do not know if they are actually the same disks used by the dealers but they do have far more info than the repair books.

    I purchased several for different cars on EBay for less than $15 each, delivered. You may want to at least look at this avenue for alternate ideas.

    Good luck---

    Foggy
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    Don't go by no broken wire appearance on the resistor, in the upper center main wire you will see like a small thicker tubular piece, this is filled with wax and has a circut breaker inside and if this over heats it will stick open, use a jump wire to bypass it and then check your fan speeds, it least you can confirm if the resistor needs replacing or not. I had the same problem and it was the resistor.
  • mcm020mcm020 Member Posts: 9
    I'll check both the resistor & the switch... but I apologize, I'm not familiar w/ a jump wire??? is that anything other than using another wire and just hook it up to the fan switch to see if the switch works properly?
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    Yes . A jump wire is nothing more than a piece of wire you use to jump across different terminal.
    I used about a 3" piece of wire and stuck it in the wiring connector coming from the cars wiring harness. The black wire is the 12 volt power wire. The other wires are the different fan speeds. Once I found medium speed, I put crimped on spade connectors to my jumper wire and pushed them into the wiring harness and left the fan on medium.
    I couldn't stand the noise of the fan on high, so I picked medium...
    I ordered the switch so when it comes I can remove the jumper wire and plug in the switch.
    Cheers.
    Danford1
  • foggysailfoggysail Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a remote door opener on EBay for my 99 Taurus. Problem is I cannot get the car into a program mode nor for that matter can I find anything under the dash that looks like a RAP module. No module, no remote door unlock so I read.

    Has anybody added a RAP module to a similar vehicle? Was the car wired for the RAP??

    I just added cruise control, was suprised that all the needed wiring was in place for the upgrade except for the steering wheel's electrical bus along with the shroud that fits under the wheel. I quickly changed the wheel electrical bus along with the shroud. Had to swap the air bag also. My point in mentioning this upgrade is all the wiring was put there by Ford. I would be surprised if the wiring for a RAP module is not there.......... but then again, I don't exactly know where the RAP fits along with what the wiring harness for it looks like.

    Thanks for reading this far---

    Foggy
  • pepper4pepper4 Member Posts: 10
    Hi
    I replaced the radiator cap , What is the low pressure model and what is the location of it? I have a 3.0 v6 with
    manual controls for fan and temp. When the other heater cores leaked they fogged the inside of the windows all up.They never got the carport wet.

    Thanks
    Mike
  • moeohmoeoh Member Posts: 13
    you can by replacement caps good for different pressure ranges at Autozone or pep boys.
    I think I went with 10-15 psi? but not sure. I went with the lowest pressure available.
    They usually also come with a red pressure relief toggle on the cap if that helps you spot it. simply replace the regular cap and the whole system runs at a lower pressure, so less prone to leaks.
    It does run hotter however in hot weather but has not been a problem in Ohio.
  • hvye1hvye1 Member Posts: 1
    I BROKE MY DRIVERS SIDE MIRROR. I WANT TO REPLACE. HOW DO I REMOVE THE OLD MIRRIOR.
    TAHANKS IN ADVANCE
  • drmurdocdrmurdoc Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem on my 2002 Sable. Here is the information from two postings I received when I asked. Not that tough, take your time.

    - Dave

    One of the two screws for that trim piece is under the door trim.
    You could try to get in there with a flexible screwdriver set. You'd have to remove the one panel screw that is on the hinge side of the door.
    Then try to pull the top of the panel by the mirror off a little bit to fit in that screwdriver.

    IF it's a power mirror you're going to have to bite the bullet and remove the trim panel. It's really not that hard. You just need a trim pad removal tool (less than $10) and a phillips screwdriver. Remove the phillips screws holding in the arm rest and then pop out the Christmas tree fasteners along the edge of the door. Peel back the vapor barrier to disconnect the power connector to the mirror, and pop off the trim piece behind the mirror. Total job is less than an hour.

    No need to remove the vapor barrier, the harness is on the outside of it.
    Don't forget to remove the 5 screws around the outer perimeter of the door along with the 2 by the door handle.



    - You have to remove the door panel to get to the lower screw on the sail panel.
    - The connector is just below the sail panel behind the door panel
    - The Painted part is an insert, but to warn you, its a PITA to get it off without breaking the clips, if you do break 'em, just stick it back on with 3m double sided tape.
    - I don't know anything about the ebay ones
  • oktaurus2003oktaurus2003 Member Posts: 2
    I seem to have the same problem (Fan Only works on High). I plan on troubleshooting the resistor. Would it be possible for this problem to also take out the stereo? Yes I know anything is possible but has anyone heard of this additional problem or is it coincidental(sp)?
  • oktaurus2003oktaurus2003 Member Posts: 2
    2003 Taurus, 3.0L V-6, 70K Miles.
    (1) Fan motor only works on High. Plan to trouble-shoot resistor.
    (2) Radio is completely dead. Plan to trace wire bundle for possible short or contamination from the leaking cabin filter that took out the Fan Motor resistor. Have a back-up radio if I can't find anything.
    (3) Motor surges when a heavy load or foot is put on it. First encountered while CC was on and going up a hill.... scared the heck out of me.... Works fine when using gradual acceleration. Have no plan of attack for this yet. Looking for advice?
    The other problems sound familiar from the previous post but I haven't seen any on the surging problem.
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    I bought a new switch from the Ford dealer. It did the same thing, fan only worked on high.
    I then bought the resistor pack. That fixed the problem.
    Now I have a brand new Ford switch I can't take back.
    Anyone want to buy it?
    I'll sell it for $17.50 with FREE shipping to the USA.

    Danford1
  • ostafarrionostafarrion Member Posts: 1
    '95 Mercury Sable
    3.8

    Having drivebelt/alternator/electrical charging problems...
    Brought the diSABLEd into Sears auto center for a tension pulley
    replacement, as that pulley that was part of the serpentine assembly
    disintegrated for mysterious reasons. Got the car back, with a new belt
    and tension pulley/arm, (which should automatically adjust the tension, on the belt, right?) and was still having problems getting the alternator to charge the battery. (battery is <6months old, jumping is instantly successful) It would squeal when accelerating and the alternator was real hot to the touch. Went back to Sears and they said it was because of a bad alternator, so I took it home and installed the new (refurbished) alternator myself. The battery is still not being charged while running, and the new alternator still gets real hot and is wearing away my new Sears belt, you can see by the rubber splash pattern that the problem seems to be isolated to the alternator pulley. It still squeals from the alternator pulley when the engine is being revved, also. Is this an isolated electrical ground problem somewhere else, or what gives? I'm all out of ideas, so any help is appreciated.
    _________________
  • sholstsholst Member Posts: 3
    If no warning lights are coming on and my 96 Sable is beeping several times when the car starts and now when I drive it long distances it randomly beeps, how do I know what's wrong? My car hasn't smoked or smelled strange, & nothing seems to be working any differently. Should I be worried that it's serious? I've read my entire owners manual and still have no idea. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    which alarm is going off?
  • sholstsholst Member Posts: 3
    that's exactly what I don't know. no indicator lights are illuminating to tell me what's wrong & nowhere in the owner's manual does it say what the beeps mean. there are 4 high pitched beeps, a pause then more beeps. it does this a total of 5 times. for about a week this happened only when the car started, but I took a 5 hour trip and it did it about 4 times whle moving as well.

    I don't know if this is related or not, but my airbag light used to flash becaue there are no longer bags installed and my engine light WAS on due to a DPFE (or some initials like that) sensor that is going bad.....those 2 lights are no longer on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well maybe someone who actually owns a similar car can comment. I have no idea on this one.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    My fuel cap light will not go off for almost one month after I forgot to close the fuel cap. At first I thought my fuel cap is kind of loose and cannot shut tight and put a new one on.
    Still cannot let the fuel cap light go off. Can I disconnect the battery to get rid of the light?
  • adc1caadc1ca Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    I own a 1997 Mercury Sable Vulcan V6. I've noticed lately that if I bring the car to a complete stop and then turn left as soon as I hit around 20-40Km/h I can hear a howling noise from the front end. If I tap the brakes the sound will dissapear for a small amount of time. Once my speed has gone past 40Km/h the sound goes away. Could this be my wheel bearings?
  • rchauhanrchauhan Member Posts: 4
    2000 Taurus Wagon, I have the same problem - The fuel gauge light is burnt out and need to replace the bulb. Other lights are working.
    Can someone help.
    How to do it and what to avoid.
  • daneroneydaneroney Member Posts: 7
    The previous owner SWORE the ignition key will work for the trunk. NOT, it's shaped differently. How to open the trunk without a key? Locksmith?

    Dane
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    Last week, my wife and I purchased a 2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium for our daughter who recently graduated from university. It has the 3.0L Duratec 24V V6, and the AX4N transaxle. The car was purchased from a private party, and has 36K on the clock.

    Apparently, power steering pump problems are quite typical for the vehicle. The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise when the steering is on center, but more so when turning from lock to lock. From my experience, it sounds like an aeration and cavitation problem, rather than an actual PS pump failure. I know the Ford shop manual specifically goes through the purging/bleeding procedure thoroughly for this system.

    I took it to a good independent shop, and they stated that there's also a screen in the external PS fluid reservoir that can become clogged which can exacerbate the problem. Moreover, the specified PS fluid is Ford-spec MERCON ATF, and I will be willing to bet the previous owner used standard PS fluid to top the system off in past years from the looks of the fluid in the external reservoir.

    The shop's first step is to flush the existing fluid, clean the screen in the reservoir, and then refill with ATF, and bleed the system. And, then go from there . . .

    Any thoughts on this from anyone more experienced with this on the Sable and Taurus with the non-integrated PS pump/reservoir system would be greatly appreciated.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    My 2000 Sable wagon had the same problem you describe. After replacing the steering fluid pump and bleeding the system, the next step would've been replacing the rack and pinion. The noise became was loud only while turning the steering wheel.

    I never found out the precise fix for the problem because after a collision the car was unfortunately declared a total loss.
  • blkwingblkwing Member Posts: 1
    does anyone out there know what type of transmission is in a standard ford taurus gl year 1995 3.0 litre please help pending finding right transmission for afriend
  • geoff813geoff813 Member Posts: 2
    There are 2 versions used 94-95. The AX4N and AX4S. The ID tag and a parts yard with a Hollanders manual can get you the correct one. A 93 AX4S will also work but you have to change wiring at the plug. Just one of Ford's better ideas to confuse, confound and overcharge.
  • bobby19bobby19 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, my 1993 taurus started making that clicking sound when turning, I assumed it was the cv joint, so I took it to a shop and he 'said' he replaced both axles, the car still makes that noise so I take it back to him and he says that noise is the ball joint and its not really a big problem. Anyone out there know if this sounds reasonable?
  • jay24vdohcjay24vdohc Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Taurus has 125000 Miles. I have a 2000 Sable With 78000 Miles. They both have 24vDOHC Duratec Motor' s. They have 6 individual ignition coil's per cylinder. I had to replace one of them on my Taurus they are $100.00.The sable i put a coolant tank in it to shut my low coolant light off. And struts and ball joint' s. But that's the only problems i've had with the two cars. So if you get a sable or taurus Make sure it has a 24V DOHC Motor in it!!! :shades:
  • jay24vdohcjay24vdohc Member Posts: 3
    I can't find anything for my 2000 Sable. It has a 24v DOHC.
  • jay24vdohcjay24vdohc Member Posts: 3
    Do you still have the Alternator that came off the car before the problem? The pulley on the new alternator might be to small .
  • john_doe_wnyjohn_doe_wny Member Posts: 28
    Hi, I have a 98 taurus with 122,900 miles that I'm going to get the trans fluid changed in. Now my question...Should I get all the fluid changed with a flush where they don't drop the pan and change the filter or should I just have them drop the pan and change the filter and just the fluid that comes out with the pan off? The last and only time the trans fluid (out of the pan) and filter was changed was at about 60,000 miles. Trans seems to down shifting alot when I let off the gas in slower traffic lately (30-40 mph). Thanks for your thoughts.
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    Here is what I did. I pulled the pan and changed the filter. I also let the trans drip overnight to get as much fluid out of it as possible (about 7 qts). I then put a drain plug on the trans pan. I reinstalled the pan and put in 7 qts Mercon V. I drove around to warm up trans, pulled the drain plug, added 7 qts, drove around, drained it, added 7 qts etc. I ran 28 qts through it. To me, this makes sure ALL the fluid got changed plus it has a new filter.
    Now, every 18,000 or 20,000 miles I can drain off 7 qts and add 7 to refresh the fluid. At 50,000 miles, I'll run 28 qts through it again.
    Most people will tell you they only get about 6 qts out of the trans. That is true. BUT, if you read enough info on the Taurus trannies you will find where they say to add 1 qt over the full mark on the dip stick. Don't do this with a rear wheel drive car ! It is OK on the Taurus though :-)>

    Danford1
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