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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • tnmajortnmajor Member Posts: 14
    Maxi fuse is in the front right when looking at the engine compartment.Drivers side. On the outside of that fuse box you will find the maxi fuse to the left. I bet money this gets you back in action.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    tnmajor, Do you meant my radio or my alternator? I got the radio back with a yellow #20 fuse in position 17. Still no alternator :sick: .

    Friend did a volt check on the battery and it was around like 5 volts, when engine was revved it went up to about 6 or 7. He said my diode was shot, which means new alternator. Since I have the DOHC engine the alt. is hidden down below and may be $$ labor to fix. I hope you mean it's a maxi fuse for the alternator!!!
  • g8rfang8rfan Member Posts: 1
    In regards to Wrench2 and Bowmanjh1,
    The problem is not necessarily speeding but just sticking cable and or corroded speedo head. I just pulled my 93 Sable speedo head because Ford Wanted $600 for the head. I found corrosion where the cable ties into the back of the speedo head. My speedometer would work fine sometimes and other times it would start swinging wildly from 0 to 85mph especially on cold mornings. The speedo finally quit qorking so I pulled it out to replace the head and found the corrosion and the resulting broken upper cable half. The upper cable half on my sable had a plastic tip that turned the speedo and it had come off the cable end due to strain caused by corrosion.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    HI there, You advised me on a maxi fuse. I found it, but am afraid to touch it. I am also afraid to take it to a shop, who will put in an alternator that I might not need.

    Did you mean that the maxi fuse is for the alternator? I think that is what you meant, considering where it is. Is there a good chance that it could have blown and saved the alternator, or could it have blown and still not saved it? My batt did pick up a volt or 2 when revved. Would that happen if this fuse has blown? I'm thinking not, and that the fuse is good and alt. is not.

    I am waiting another day so my friend can check it with his volt checker (whatever you call it!). I just don't trust shops, and like to know the problem before I bring it in.

    Any more light you can shed on this situation would be great. I keep saying there should be more safeguards, I can't be the only moron. I wonder how many morons got new alternators who only needed new fuses??

    Thank you
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My "new" 2001 Taurus should have the coolant replaced.The second owner said he didn't do it, so he thinks it would be a good idea now. (He did do fuel and cabin filter, serpentine,tires, brake pads ,front rotors) I've heard this called flush and fill. Several people have told me to skip the "flush" and not to pour any other junk in there except the anti-freeze, that it will gunk it up. I'm in NJ. Any thoughts on this?

    Sound like a do-it-yourself...but I'm the one who put in my own battery and look where that got me!! (though Hubby could handle). They can't charge much for an empty and fill can they!?
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    I think tnmajor is responsible for saving me time, $$ and a stomachache. I had my buddy check the darn mega fuse and that thing was BAD. Popped in the new one and my alternator is not broken after all.

    Check my other posts for all the crap that occurred after I put my battery in backwards. Total cost of repairs was $7.00 for 2 fuses. This board really helped me out. The diagnostic alone would have been $50, and who knows if they knew about the fuse. Nobody on my phone calls ever suggested it.

    Thanks again for the patience and advice from you guys. :):D Persistance and research paid off!!!
  • tnmajortnmajor Member Posts: 14
    Glad to be of service. I had been through the same situation on teenagers car not long ago. Glad to be part of your US Air Force.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    I should change the coolant in my 01 w/ 85000 miles since nobody knows if or when it was done. I hear all this stuff about the heater core and I am afraid to have anybody touch the system because it never fails that when you "fix" something, something else goes wrong.

    I have read to NOT use chemical flush and been told by some folks just to drain the radiator and refill. If I have them "flush" it with water only, will I run the potential of causing the heater core or anything to go bad? All seems well with the cooling system at this point. I will be having a shop do this.

    If I have them just drain the rad. and refill it shouldn't be expensive, won't damage anything else and I could then have it done again in a year or so, which should leave me with decent coolant. Maybe by then I can learn to do it myself! Does doing this make any sense? SOmetimes I really believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" (long ago I had a "friend" do a tune-up, he stripped a cylinder or something and I'd have been better of not having it done!)
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    To Flush or Not - That is the question !

    Well if you want to get all of that gunk out of the cooling system that has built up over the last 6 or 7 years then a flush is the way to go. If you just want to get some more coolant in there that is a little fresher then drain and fill the raditor.

    The reason to change the fluid in the radiator is to stop the engine from rusting away. So the question becomes how should I do this ?

    One easy way is to install a back-flush tee in one of the heater hoses and then hook up the garden hose to the tee. That will flush out the system and get rid of everything. That is a really easy thing to do that you can do yourself.

    Or if you just want to drain the radiator all you have to do is take out the bolt or loosen the valve at the bottom of the radiator. Doing that will drain the radiator. If you cant find the drain valve/bolt then just disconnect the lower radiator hose.

    Also, make sure the car has sat overnight when you do any of this so the engine and the coolant are cold. Working on a hot engine can cause problems and you could burn yourself.
  • lizettelizette Member Posts: 2
    This is my first time on a forum...please bare w/me! I bought a 2001 Taurus at auction. Car didn't have ANY manuals, just ONE single key, and no info on the keyless entry pad access. Was told that entering a sequence of numbers several times would allow me to change to a new code. This car has factory-installed alarm, but with just one key, there's not much I can do, either.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    THIS I can help with. I assume there is not a code in the pouch that the owner's manual is in? If you have the pouch there is a little plastic card, about 1 inch x 3 inches with the code on it. If not,you'll have to do what I did. I had to practically lay with my head under the steering wheel, by the brakes. There is a fuse box with all those little plastic fuses in it. My code was on a sticker that was partly behind the plastic back of the fusebox (on the right). I could just see a little tab of paper sticking out. I grabbed as much of it as I could and gently pulled. I pulled off a little tab that said "keycode" and that was the factory set code. THe owner book has instructions to set your own, but you need the factory one to do it. It's possible your code is somewhere else under there, so look around for stickers. It could be stuck on the SIDE of the box if it's not wrapped behind it like mine was. :)
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    He said he did not have any manuals. He should just go to the dealer and get a spare key, buy some spare key fobs off eBay and have the dealer program them and the keypad code at the same time or don't worry about the keypad and just use the keyfobs instead.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My driver's window starts clicking (2001) as it goes down the last 5-6 inches. Sounds like some gear or something might be sticking or breaking. Somebody advised lubing it. I've never done that, but wanted other opinions before I try it. The window seems to work properly other than the noise. I am afraid to let it all the way down for fear it will get stuck.

    Anybody ever had this noise and know what it is a sign of? Lubing can't hurt can it?
  • lizettelizette Member Posts: 2
    I will try my best to find this code.....THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFORMATION.....I REALLY APPRECIATE IT. GOD BLESS YOU.. :)
  • robertplattbelrobertplattbel Member Posts: 4
    I've been reading the posts here and laughing my [non-permissible content removed] off.

    Fords are unreliable because the types of people who buy them don't maintain them. If you want to keep a car running like new, you have ot keep it new. But since these are such cheap cars, no one wants to spend the $$$ on maintaining them, so they fall apart, and people consider them cheap cars, and the circle is complete.

    Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years or 24,000 miles - FLUSHED, to prevent corrosion in the brake system. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbs water.

    Coolant should be flushed bi-annually as well. Use a quality coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Mix 50:50 with DISTILLED water (its 99 cents a jug so stop complaining) and use Redline water wetter.

    Transmission fluid should be FLUSHED every 3-4 years or 40,000 miles. Many complain here of transmission failures, and I am certain they are related to fluid failure. If trany fluid overheats, it turns brown and loses ALL lubricity. Check the fluid level often and check the COLOR and SMELL, too. If it smells burnt or looks brown, change it with a quality fluid.

    Water pumps on many new cars fail at 60,000 miles. If you see a small seepage at the water pump, chances are the seal is shot and coolant is in the bearings. The bearings can seize and leave you stranded when you least expect it. On some cars (like the BMW) the pump wobbles and throws off fan blades, which then puncture the hood (I kid you not). Radiator parts, coolant hoses, belts, and even water pumps, are all fairly cheap. If the car has some higher milage, consider a complete cooling system overhaul, rather than piecemeal replacement.

    Others have mentioned that these cars can be expensive to own when used. This is true for any car. If you are not handy with tools, then buy newer cars under warrenty. Leave the used cars to the shadetree mechanics....

    With proper preventative maintenance, any car can be made reliable. With no preventative maintenance, it ends up being a game of waiting for the next failure to occur.

    FWIW...
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    RobertPlatbell:

    While you have a point that maintenance is a good thing you don't quite have the details correct.

    For my car (a 2003 model) the coolant is good for 5 years or 150k miles. You are referring to the old type coolant that is generally not used anymore. To change it more often than what is recommended is just a waste of money. Changing it more frequently won't make your car run better or be more reliable.

    The transmission fluid change interval is 24k miles not 40k as you suggest. And by the way, they use the Mercon V fluid now which is synthetic and holds up better than previous versions.

    And as you know you can change all of the fluids, watch for water pump degradation, and still have many mechanical problems.

    So while your suggestions are in the right direction, they will not prevent many expensive repairs.
  • john_doe_wnyjohn_doe_wny Member Posts: 28
    My 98 Taurus w/dohc and 124500 miles that will not idle right. Most of the time it idles very low and rough at about 700 rpm but sometimes it idles as high as 1500 rpm. This is in gear as well as park. I drove it for two days before the check engine light came on. It has many codes all pointing to running lean. I'm sure the low idle is causing that. Any ideas as what to look at first? I'm thinking TPS or IAC. Any ideas on how to test these to avoid taking it in to be repaired? Thanks
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Looks like a new steering rack is in my future. The fluid is a little bit below min, and there are occassional spots on driveway. Drips were seen coming from the area of the rubber boot (kinky black hose). It has 85,000 miles and is "new" to us, so no idea how long leaking.

    I have seen used racks going for as low as $85-$125 and new (napa-is it new or reman?)is about $220 plus core charge. All this without upcharge by shop (how much will that be?)

    Have steering racks been a problem on these cars (2001 DOHC)? Would a used part be worth it? Do they inspect them? If there is a warranty, does it cover reinstalling it because I hear the labor is fairly high on this job?

    I wonder how long we can go if is is a small leak and we are sure to keep an eye on the fluid level? It is performing normally.
  • cubswin21cubswin21 Member Posts: 1
    I had my coolant flushed and changed the other day-- seemed ok, drove it for a day, and now the low coolant light is on. Reserve is full. Any ideas? Did the flush gum up the sensor? Where is it at to unplug? I looked but don't see it.

    Also, I'd like to clean out my Throttle Body, but I'm not sure where it is. Thanks!
  • silentwillsilentwill Member Posts: 2
    I to had the warning light come on, but had ample fluid. I asked my service manager to look at, and he said often the sensor does not read correctly and suggested I add a little more coolant. He put in about a cup of green 50/50 mixture and the light did not come on. That was about 9 months ago. Since then I have added a cup once and a half-cup another time when the light came on and problem solved. The last time the fluid level is now up to the black portion of the top section of the tank. The service manager also told me that to replace the sensor one must buy a total new tank. A few cups of 50/50 mix beats buying a new tank. Hope this helps.
    silentwill
  • rivdogrivdog Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 1994 Sable and found out that the sunroof will not open or close. The control panel for it lights up but nothing happens when you press open or close. I'm not too great when it comes to troubleshooting electrical so any help would be greatly welcomed!
  • bob158bob158 Member Posts: 1
    My sable starts accelerating too a high speed when put in
    park. any help on this?
  • kevmokevmo Member Posts: 4
    When I'm turning a corner slowly and am turning my wheel back to straight a grinding/growling noise comes from the front end. Any ideas on what this might be? Sway bars? Stuts? Steering linkage?

    Thanks for your help.
  • kong59idkong59id Member Posts: 2
  • kong59idkong59id Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 sable LS has a buzzing noise comming from the dash or the windsheild (can't really tell) when I am on the highway driving at speeds between 55 and 80 mph. What could this be?

    Thanks
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    If you make a mistake on the posts, you can go back and click edit and correct it. You do not have make a new post.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My son's 2001 Taurus was stalling last night when put into drive. My son said that if he put it in Reverse before he put it into drive, and then put it to Drive, that it would go. If he went directly to Drive it would stall.

    What could this be? Please advice soon!! :sick:
  • vandal88vandal88 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 taurus and the water pump went out on it. Do I need to lift the engine up in order to get it off or is there a way that you can get it past the frame of the vehicle?
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    3.8 or 3.0 engine? I know the 3.0(non SHO) can be done easily without having to move the engine. Did it myself in a hour or so. EZ job.
  • trailblazerlstrailblazerls Member Posts: 5
    Hello evryone

    How difficult is it to replace the oil pan gasket on a 99 Sable with the 24 valve DOHC engine? Does the engine need to be lifted? I was quoted $600 to replace which seem ridiculous. Is this something I can do? Any advice?
  • alli3alli3 Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1993 ford taurus, when i purchased it the previous owner told me that it needed a new master cylinder. I tried to replace it, did what the instructions told me to and the breaks still don't work.
    Any ideas to what could be wrong with it?
  • oldescortoldescort Member Posts: 1
    I will be replacing the front struts/strut bearings on my Sable and will be doing my own work. Is it necessary to disconnect the tie rod end and separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm? Thanks.
  • willis3willis3 Member Posts: 76
    I have a '97 Taurus with the Vulcan engine. It developed a leak and the oil pan had to be replaced. The engine doesn't need to be lifted (although the car will be lifted and removed from the underside).

    I can dig through my receipts and find out the cost of this repair (occurred 2-3 years ago).

    As for repairing it yourself, you would need a good set of jackstands. I'm sure it's easier to do the repair if the car is on a lift.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    2001 DOHC engine. 2 weeks ago it stalled one night when it was put into drive. It did it a few times. My son said it went after he went into Reverse first, then into drive. It didn't do it again for the past 2 weeks. I was worried about the Reverse part, and thinking trans, but haven't had it checked as it's been fine.

    Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.

    I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.

    I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).

    Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?

    Any help??
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Could be the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. My Explorer did something very similar, and also did not cause the Check Engine light to come on. It is a relatively inexpensive part. Is it also idling very low, close to the point of the engine quitting? If so, I would definitely think the IAC valve. On the Explorer, it is located right on top, veyr easy to fix myself. I do not know where it si on the Taurus, but someone like Autozone could tell you I am sure.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    He hasn't mentioned the idle being a problem. It is fine today. Was yours intermittent when it went bad? DId it happen off and on, or did it just go bad all at once? I hope it is that easy!

    Nothing is easy to reach on this stinking engine.

    I will write it down on my list of questions to ask the mechanic. I am always afraid of being taken by the mechanic..I've usually had newer cars with, or just out of warranty. This is my first excursion into a used (too used) car, for my son. I think it may be a costly mistake. :sick:
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Mine went bad all of a sudden. I got in it one morning to got to work, and it would barely run enough to back out of the garage. Once I hit the road, though, with foot on the gas pedal, it ran fine. But, every time I stopped, I had to give it gas to keep it running. Never got a check engine light.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Below is a post I already made. A friend says it could be the torque converter. He says Ford will have a whole diagnostic they could run that a small shop might not. Is he possibly correct (about Ford) and should I let them take a crack at diagnosing it rather than the small shop?(then fix it elsewhere-if cheaper)

    PRIOR POST
    2001 DOHC engine. 2 weeks ago it stalled one night when it was put into drive. It did it a few times. My son said it went after he went into Reverse first, then into drive. It didn't do it again for the past 2 weeks. I was worried about the Reverse part, and thinking trans, but haven't had it checked as it's been fine.

    Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.

    I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.

    I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).

    Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?
  • fkrolfkrol Member Posts: 1
    What was the problem? I'm having the same except I'm getting a bout 200 miles per tank. Still nearly a third less than normal. THANKS!
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Does anybody know what the mechanic labor rate is for non-warranty work at dealerships? I am in South Jersey and about to go in for a "diagnostic" for stalling. She said it costs $120 and she thought that allows for 1.5 hours to diagnose. Just wondering to compare with other shops.

    Any ideas on the parts markup (for motorcraft, new, reman. etc)? I think I am looking at a rebuilt steering rack.

    How about the bodyshop rates? I am considering a new bumper too. I doubt they would attempt a "repair" of my existing.
  • bill136bill136 Member Posts: 1
    Do I need to pull the pump before replacing the pulley or can I do it in place? Will I need any special tools? Please email me bilcheek@hotmail.com
  • zookeeper77zookeeper77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Sable. It "failed" emissions, because the check engine light doesn't come on when the car is first turned on. The guy at the test station said it's probably just a lamp. Problem is, my manual doesn't tell you how to change the lamp. It doesn't address this problem at all. Anyone have a clue what I should do?
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    Greetings,yes I am having the same problem. Mileage dropped approximately 40%. The independent shop said fuel filter and thermostat,dealer said fuel pump. Sure would like to know what others have done before begining to exchange parts. Anyone resolves this problem? How? Thanks
  • rchauhanrchauhan Member Posts: 4
    If you smell fuel when the car is parked in your garage, it could be a blocked fuel filter and it is easy to replace. It is found under the right or left rocker panel. You have to either take the fuse out to prevent the fuel pump from running or use the switch in the trunk to turn the fuel pump off and then crank the engine so that the pressure in the fuel lines drops and the engine sputters out. Then it is easy to disconnect the old filter and connect the new filter. Be careful with the plastic clips that keep the filter connected. Replace fuse and start the car up and you should be ok.
  • babytrudybabytrudy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Mercury Sable and we have changed plugs, checked plug wires and still have a miss in it. It runs fine going down the road but runs when idling. Someone mentioned core pack. How does that affect running of car?
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Ford couldn't find any real reason for why my 2001 DOHC had two evenings (2 weeks apart) that it stalled when placed into drive, and once died at a light (but restarted).

    They road tested it (I assume!) did star test, pid moniter, fuel pressure was 53 psi, fuel trim and baro pids--all ok. I don't know what all that is.

    Tested the IAC duty cycle and got 54% which they say is High. They suspect it is beginning to fail. Also suggest a fuel filter.

    SO, it the IAC a likely suspect and what should it cost to repair? This is the DOHC, pain in the butt, engine. The part is about $90 and they want $50 labor--1/2 hour.

    They claim it looks pretty good otherwise, didn't notice any tranny issues and gave me the cheapest price (out of 3) for a power steering rack!
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    maybe try a 10 bottle of fuel system cleaner at your next fill up.

    It can't hurt. It may just be water in your fuel tank.

    Mark.
  • bahamamichaelbahamamichael Member Posts: 7
    Hi! Have you tried this site yet http://www.2carpros.com/makes/ford/taurus.htm, it offers answers to questions that you may already have, and you can ask questions and get specific answers. Good luck.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    How difficult is it to change a fuel filter? I have the 24V DOHC engine. If I can't do it myself (I'm not too handy), is it OK to let pep boys do? It seems like a small job for a busy shop. How long should it take a person who knows how to do it (on other cars.

    Ford says mine is very old, but the pressure, etc is ok. How do I know when it must be changed?
  • rchauhanrchauhan Member Posts: 4
    See post 2707. It is fairly easy and the PEP boys should be able to do it. No more than 10 minutes to do it if they know how to do it and should be like an oil change.
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