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Look at the maintenance schedule. It usually has a normal and a severe schedule. Follow the schedule that fits your driving.
If it is 7500 intervals for your driving, then the first change is at 7500 miles.
There are no engine filings anymore.
Mark
thanks
jthomas ">
Thanks
Any help is GREATLY appreciated, I'd like to get done with this today.
Thanks.
Mark.
Mark
Also 170 is not very warm. You should be running warmer than that.
Anyway, if you have full force of air at the vents, I'd suspect the heater control valve is not opening all the way.
I have heard that in order to replace the heater core you have to take down the dash board. But i really dont know were is it at. I try finding any topics dealing with my situation but since im new at this forum. i dont know from were to start.
I would apreciate and thank , any body that would help me out.
some effects i get from this problem is that my windshild gets foggy alot and fog from the vents come out. theres a leak i have under the car some were in the passenger side
they had told me . that this is due to a leak on the heater core and or i have to replace some of the hoses or the heater core it self..
ANY ONE COULD HELP
Check with your local Ford or Mercury dealer .. You may be surprised ............... Good Luck
Thanks,
Thanks for your Time
Mark
My car is randomly overheating, and for the most part i do not have ANY heat, the only way I can get the car warm is to put it in Neutral and get the RPM'S up over 3000 and then it spits out some heat. Does anyone have any ideas before I blow a bunch of money? I have heard HEat COre (but then i heard i would never have heat if it were that) and I also have head the Water pump? I already replaced the thermostat on it and that was not it. Any healp would be great!!! Thank you!
To start with I removed the wheel assembly to get room to work.
To remove the top part of the broken link rod, I ended up taking a utility knife and cutting out one of the rubber bushings and then using a compressed air powered cut off grinder to cut the bolt where the bushing use to be. This was above the washer and below the angle bracket welded to the strut.
I then put the new link in place at the top of the link/strut assembly and tightened down the nut good and tight.
The new link was now hanging down with the end of the link a good 1.5 to 2" below the sway bar. And no amount of tugging and yelling was getting me anywhere on putting the link end through the hole on the end of the sway bar.
I cam real close to bagging the operation and shipping the car off to the shop and admit defeat on something that only had two nuts to connect up.
On a whim, I placed a 8" concrete block under the rotor/hub assembly with a 2x3 on edge under the hub and lowered the car onto this arrangement. Make sure the brake rotor portion clears the concrete block when you lower the car.
When the car was down all the way there was even more of the link end hanging below the end of the sway bar.
Now take the car jack to the other side of the car and jack that side up in the air. As you jack the opposite side up you will find that the end of the sway bar opposite of where you are jacking actually gets lower and lower. By jacking the car up high enough to spin the tire plus a couple of inches, I was able to get the end of the sway bar to be real close to low enough to force the link into the hole where it goes.
I carefully climbed under the car, tugged the sway bar down just a tad and was able to get the link bolt/rod into the hole in the end of the sway bar.
With one person slowly lowering the car jack and me holding the link rod in place and aligning the bushing with the hole in the sway bar it all went well. I then put the lower bushing on the link followed by the washer and nut and then tightened the bottom nut onto the link just like the top one was.
By the time the jack is completely lowered everything is good and tight and back to where it needs to be with the new sway bar link standing up just the way you need to have it.
No need to do both sway bar links or muck around with the link on the other side in order to replace only one of them.
While it took a sizeable chunk of the afternoon to work this out, I think a single sway bar link could be replaced in an hour after all the tools were in place. Naturally, I ended up with a dozen trips to get various tools that I didn't think I would need up to that point. Plus all the think time on how to get the link rod unto the hole on the end of the sway bar.
Now, it's a cake walk without getting myself killed by parts that are under stress flying about due to removing bolts I should not have.
Cost for the replacement link from AutoZone was $11.00.
And I got another justification to have all those tools, air compressor and grinders.
Good luck on your replacement!
Marine MoM
Try to stay in a good mood with this one, it could be ugly. Hope not, though.
the upper oval thing in the fusebox...
95 taurus
still very hot.
next?
Thanks
Bob