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Comments
After I got the manual I found pretty good online help at AutoZone.com
It turned out that the AC low pressure line had dropped down and I was able to reposition it and secure it to the strut tower, so I didn't have to change the motor mount/s after all. :shades:
Sure enough there are people who drive cars without any maintenance. But I have '02 Sable with 105K miles I had zero issues or repairs - only regular maintenance. I bring it every 30K miles to dealer for service and perform other services myself, like oil change and tire rotation which includes checking brakes. I never replaced brakes because there are okay. There are no leaks. Since car has so many miles I check belts and even water pump every week and will replace water pump at 120K even it is still okay for preventive maintenance.
I have a friend who bought his 3rd Camry in the row and he has much more issues than I have (which is zero) and he takes care of his Camries. Camry and Taurus are very similar vehicles in every aspect and there is no magic about Camry as many people think. It is just cheap mainstream sedan as Taurus and is similar in reliability. Toyota tries to save money on Camry in every possible way.
Of course much depends on how you drive your cars. If it is mostly city traffic there will be more maintenance and more issues regardless of brand.
I found an entire cluster on EBAY for $10 and simply swapped out the circuit board and it fixed the problem. I also gently pried the contacts out a little bit in the two main plug to the cluster to get a tighter contact.
Hope this helps!!!!
Thanks, Scott.
They are supposed to heat up when the rear window defogger is turned on, they don't.
I suspect Ford put in a relay to send power to the mirrors. If so, where is the relay and which one is it?
Thanks.
Danford1
I like the car but something just doesn't seem right to me.
Scott
After much trial and error I discovered that caliper is one of the ones that you have to twist back into place, so I ran up and got myself a caliper reset tool from Auto Zone (because that stupid cube doesn't work).
Anyway, the tool fits perfect. The problem is, I can't get it to turn back into place. So either, I'm a lot weaker than I think, or I'm doing something wrong.
Also, I'll note that the inside brake pad was worn completely down to the metal (yes I'm replacing the rotors as well), BUT the outside pad was almost brand new....
Thoughts, I could use some help before I lose my mind
Thanks! :sick:
I live in michigan and a couple of weeks ago it was snowy and slick and a car in front of me got into an accident and I had to go over a curb to avoid involving myself in the accident. This blew out my right front tire but other than that seems to have done no obvious damage.
The only oddities are that ever since then the car has reported the outside temperature as WAY off. It almost always says it is between 100 and 105 degrees outside (and i assure you it is not!). I am not sure where the sensor is for this but I thought the first thing might be to just see if something is lodged around it or ... something. Can anyone tell me where this is? If the sensor is bad is it a user replaceable item or would it have to go to the dealership or elsewhere.
Also, I dont know if this is related but the interior thermostat seems to be screwy. When I get in the car if i have the desired temperature set to 85, once the car warms up the heat will come on full blast and once the temperature is comfortable I will turn it down to around 72 and the fan speed will go down as you would expect it to to maintain that temp. However after a few minutes (10-15) it will start to get cold and I will bump it up to 80 and the fan will kick up a bit and warm it up and keep it comfortable for another few minutes. Again a few minutes later it will start to get cool and I will bump it up to 85 and it will make it comfortable again for a while. Then it will get slightly cool again and the only other option is 90 at which the heat basically stays on full bore until you turn it back down.
On long trips I have to bump it between 85 and 90 to warm it up when it gets cool. Could this at all be related to the outside temperature sensor and the car is just completely confused about whats going on!?
Thanks!
The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 2@30, 2@45, 1@60 and 1@75. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions.
This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002.
I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home,
One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop?
Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain?
What other tests should I do concerning this low compression?
Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter.
If you can, please HELP!
Thanks
I need to add one small piece of info. The OBDII data link has never worked so I can't get any info this way. Have to do it all the old fashioned way.
Wish there were a way to get this working. Could save a lot of work???
Thanks
We checked several parts places in advance, and they seem to have the same setup as on her car.
I am just concerned that I am going to change the right part. Something gave out on her car, and it certainly seems to be one of the devices on the serpentine belt. How do I tell for sure that it is the idler pulley?
Once I do, are there directions on the web for changing it out?
Thanks,
Rod
http://greensboring.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7124
Thanks!!
Rod
Thanks for any information you can provide.
Mrbill
Car stalled and would crank but not start. Sat for an hour and started. Replaced plugs and it started and ran fine for a day. Next day same problem. Checked Ignition wires, they were bad so replaced them along with PCV and hose, cleaned MAF and AIC and checked vacuum lines and intake for leaks and found none. Same problem and it became more frequent to the point where it would only crank, sputter and not start. Checked fuel pressure and had none, replaced filter still no pressure replaced fuel pump. Now have pressure and car starts and idles a little rough and when I put it in gear it stalls but will start up again no problem until I put it in gear then stalls again. While idling I get a lot of black carbon on the garage floor and when I apply any electrical strain like rear defrost, turn signals etc the rpms reduce from about 700 to 400. Turn off the strain and the idle returns to 700 but fluctuates up and down. Only code that comes up, and that was just today after two weeks of above tinkering was P0172 Lean bank 1. This could be due to all the carbon building. Any help is appreciated.
2) Repl. heater core, however heater only works when driving at hwy speeds;
was told to have radiator check!? Also have noticed MANY posted issues with taurus heaters. NEED FEEDBACK on what to do next.
Over the past 2 weeks this problem has happened 3 times, but not under consistent circumstances. Twice when it occurred it was after driving about 20 minutes, either in town or on highway. I had the temp set at 65 and the fan on 3. Suddenly the fan sound was very loud, but no air was coming out of any of the vents, and the heat in the car was immediate. This even happened once after starting a cold car in 20 degree weather after it had been sitting for 8+ hours. Normally it would take about 5 minutes to heat up the engine enough to start producing heat...this time in took about 40 seconds to have the loud fan sound, but no air movement, and intense heat.
Whenever this happens, I can't change the fan or heat settings. It continues as described even after I turn the heating system off. At the same time, when this occurred and I had the radio on, I couldn't adjust the volume, change stations, or turn the radio off.
Has anyone else heard of something like this? I'd like to avoid an expensive and exhaustive mystery hunt by a mechanic. If there's some helpful, plausible ideas on what the problem might be, and even what might have caused it, I could ask the mechanic to focus their search, on whatever may be identified via this forum, and then he could get on with repairs.
Thanks for whatever ideas and experiences you can share!