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Hopefully, someone can help with this ...
Recently, I have had problems restarting my 2001 Ford Taurus, after I have been driven it for a while. I first noticed the problem when doing errands around town. I start the car and drive to the first destination or two and car starts / restarts (sometimes a bit sluggishly). Once car seemed to warm up, it became harder to start. When i turn the key, the engine cranks VERY SLOWLY as if the battery is dying/dead. If i try to restart 2 or 3 times, i get no engine cranking noise at all.
Last week, i went to get gas after driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway. When i went to turn the car back on, NOTHING. If i turn the key 3/4 of the way, the lights come on, the radio comes on, the windows can be put up and down, but when i turn the key to actually start the car, i HEAR NOTHING. The key turns to the end. After sitting about 20 - 30 min. the car did restart.
The battery was replaced in November when i got the car (as was the air filter, spark plugs, etc). I just had some work done at the dealership (including new gas cap, coolant flush, etc) but have no idea why this is happening.
Has this happened to anyone? Could it be the starter relay? The starter? Vapor Lock?
ii am having the exact same problem with my 2001 taurus se... not able to diagnose...no clue... one thing i noticed... when u turn the key 3/4 ... a noise come... may be the fuel pump.. when it comes.. the car starts.. if not then it doenot.. try noticing it
Unfortunately, i got ready for work yesterday, and the car was DEAD. Fortunately it was in my driveway and not the gas station. AAA came calling and investigated. Tech was 99% sure it was the starter but had to be towed anyway.
Sure enough, mechanic replaced the starter and now the car runs. All i need to do is repair / replace the other faulty components...
So, maybe your starter is on the way out? As your symptoms are different than mine, then maybe not...
thanks for the help and good luck
NOW, I went to put a new belt on and the tool (15 mm socket) will not pull the tensioner to release tension. The instructions indicate pulling CCW to release tension, but that actually loosens the tension wheel so that it seems to be ready to come off. When I turn CW, the bolt tightens up some, but never seems to become completely tight and still does not pull the tension wheel forward to release tension and allow me to put on the belt.
Am I missing something? Is there a nut inside the wheel that has come off? Is the tensioner shot? Did I turn it the wrong way? CW or CCW? The Haynes Manual I have does not seem to cover this situation.
The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 230, 245, 160 and 175. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions.
This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002.
I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home,
One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop?
Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain?
What other tests should I do concerning this low compression?
Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter. Unfortunately the OBDII does not work so I have to check things the old fashioned way.
If you can, please HELP!
Thanks
Thanks.
a hard one
I hope this helps, if you have questions let me know.
Gary, from Houston
Also, the rear driver door won't go down? Does anyone know if this is an electrical problem with a fuse, and which fuse to change? Are these issue related? Man it's getting cold here in Idaho, and I would rather fix this myself than drop $$$.
Thank you,
Halen 262
Any geniuses out there know what's up with this car? I'd appreciate it.
I did at one time disconnect every fuse block and all from under the dash (busted a few knuckles in process,
Reconnected everything again, and EVERYTHING worked great for about a week, then the same stuff.
Everything comes on but the headlights. I narrowed it down to either the switch or a relay. I bought the relay at dealer (not expensive), but have NO Idea where it is, and my manuals weren't too helpful.
Sure would be nice. Car is working great otherwise. :confuse:
never a problem on mine. Maybe this part was made by Toyota.
I do soemtimes find my foot getting stuck between teh gas and break petal. (a bit weird)...
Be safe. get it checked out.
I know others have said it's the seal around the trunk but I don't think so. There doesn't appear to be any logical way for the water to jump over the seal and into the trunk.
Replaced all catalytic converters because the mechanic felt it was back pressure. WRONG
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator because the mechanic felt it was bad. WRONG
New plugs. WRONG
New fuel filter. WRONG
Yadda Yadda Yadda.
At times in a parking lot the RPM's will drop to 400, and the car will shake.
On the highway, no particular speed, with or without cruise control, it'll seem as if you've let off the accelerator and sometimes the accelerator pedal will vibrate.
Some times the engine RPM's will go up to 2800 to 3000 then drop back down, pushing the accelerator does nothing. Then suddenly it'll just reengage and take off. It's actually stalled once in stop and go traffic. Started up but took about 10 seconds.
I get 28 mpg on the highway and have gotten as much as 34 driving from Red River, NM to Amarillo (where I refuel), so I'm really wanting to keep this but not if it's gonna get me stranded.
No codes come up.
Is there a GURU out there that can tell me what's wrong, what to check next or ?????
Someone said it may be a vacuum leak but I'm not certain if this can be checked. If it's an intermittent leak how can it be found, if it is a vacuum leak.
I'd pay for the right advise, no kidding.
Doc
stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
Is this a module problem or ?????
If it needs to be replaced does the 3 button assembly pop out? pry out? or ?
OR
Is there a module somewhere else that needs to be checked?
I really enjoyed this added feature and would like to get it working right or replace it to continue using it.
Thanks
Doc Haley
stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Your help in resolving the issue is appreciated.
Thanks
I was wondering why a dealership or other repair shops are asking $300.00 + to replace a camshaft synchronizer for a ford taurus , it looks fairly easy to get to and only 2 screws , other than setting the timing after installing it , the part is only a $60.00 part
I've noticed it faster than about 25 mph (around 40 mph) but you can feel it more going slower.
What could cause this?
Danford1
We have been having a very cold and snowy winter so I'm suspecting some ice (or ice melt) may be causing the problem. My garage is unheated and last time I checked, the thermometer was at 12 F. Any suggestions what to look at or do next? (short of driving to the dealer).
Thanks.
Brownboot
What I did was to jack up the back as high as I could with the floor jack with the tire still on then I put some 2x8 scrap wood 3 pcs stacked up under the tire so the right rear would settle securely, then lowered the jack and with about 6" of wood only under one tire the spring was compressed enough to easely pop the old one off and plenty of room to work with the new one.