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I have read other postings hear which indicate that it might just be the battery and I will try that first.
However, I havea feeling that my problem might be elsewhere. I had assumed that the clicking meant that some computer relay had just gone kaput and that I would have to tow it in to get it put on the machine to see where the problem lies.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions?
Bmang
I have a 2002 Taurus and the cooling fan continues to run after I turn off the ignition. I have changed the relays, changed the fuses and replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the problem persists.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Aaron
We discovered when the heater and fan is running, there was a rattle and smoke!
We discovered that one of the three caps(?) on the A/C compressor had come loose, and that's where the smoking was coming from. It finally came off, and the inside is melted.
Then, after that one came off, a 2nd one popped right off!
What's happening? Why in the world would 2 of these caps come off on their own like that? And what caused them to melt inside? Is there some moving part they're covering?
Background:
This started last night after we took a sharp curve to the left too fast. All of a sudden that's when the noise and smell started. Did that cause it to shift? Is it migrating off it's bolts? Is it about to come loose and crash around?
Additional note:
I have no idea if this is related, if it's bad or nothing... I may be paranoid, but it seems to me that the spinning pulley part on the compressor is wobbling just a teeny bit against the pink bushing or gasket (?) that's between the pulley and the three capped bolts. However, those three bolt ends and the plate at the end don't appear to move at all.
Anyway, thanks for any suggestions or advice!
A sealer is just an exercise in denial. It won't last and probably not even work at all, if the head gasket is actually damaged.
however, the engine does not overheat, nor lose oil or water, there is a "gas" odor on the dipstick, and a creamy looking "sludge" on oil cap.
any advice would greatly be appreciated.
The vibration occurs at slow speeds (15 - 20 MPH) AFTER completing the turn. This does not happen on level surfaces.
I went by my Ford Dealership to take a tech for a "test drive." Failing to reproduce the vibration, while we talked, he said that both front drive axles have two halves that slide back and forth on the "spline" as the front suspension moves up and down. This section of the drive axles have a rubber boot that is sealed from the factory with grease. However, sometimes there may not be enough grease inside the grease boots.
You may want to check to see if there is enough grease inside the boots by merely squeeziing the boots. If the boots easily compress with little or no resistance there may be little of no grease inside the boots to lubricate the sliding halves of the axles.
Should the drive axle boots (transmission end of each axle) need grease, there is an adapter you can connect to a grease gun that is flat on one end. Loosen the clips on the rubber boots. Gently slide the flat end of the adaptor between the rubber boot and the axle.
Next, apply enough grease from a "hand operated" grease gun to fill the rubber grease boot. Best to do this at BOTH ends of the rubber grease boots....
Next, after completing filling the boots with grease, gently remove the adaptor and retighten the boot clips.
NOTE: Use a hand-held, manually pumped grease gun. Using a grease gun under air pressure could put TOO MUCH grease in the boot; thereby, causing a tear or puncture in a boot!
I recommend using "Black Moly Grease" which also contains graphite. This is a grease that can be used for ball joints as well.
Some rear-wheel drive SUV's have drive-shafts which also have a section that slides on a spline as the rear wheels move up and down. Sometimes there is a "grease ZERK" fitting. I also recommend periodically using 'black moly grease' on this fitting as well.
1) like stated above, the lemon factor is obvisous.
2) hopefully, you can pay cash for it and not finance the steep depreciation on a new one.
3) Lower taxes
4) usually lower insurance.
5) at 35-50k miles most of the maintenance has already been done, check the records to be sure.
6) after a few years the relability has been established and the usual prbolmes are identified and you can determine if you want those headaches or not.
I have moved to the school of thought of older cars than newer cars because of these factors. There are just some cars out there is worth replacing a tranny/motor for another 100+k miles that is cheaper than getting a newer car with payments. Just my warped 2 cents.
Like I said earlier, I can't afford to put a lot of money into anything I buy, and of course I know that buying a used car with this mileage is a crap shoot. Any information you can give me about this model Taurus SE from 1999 would be greatly appreciated. Another thing: The guy unlocked the car for me by using the key. I asked him if there was a remote keyfob and he said no, like the car didn't come with one. Could this be true? Thanks, folks!
Emailed Haynes and their response seems to be: basically said hire a pro. I thought I had enough smarts to follow along in a book but I seem to be at a cross roads. Would anyone have any ideas for me?
Cleaned throttle body with choke/carb cleaner. Replaced EGR valve gaskets.
Put everything back and checked plug wiring order.
Started car. Stumbled due to no fuel at first and stopped. Recranked and started with foot on the accelerator. Now it ran but sounded very rough. Had to keep throttle way down to keep it running. It got up to 2500 RPM but sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. ran like this for about 20 to 30 seconds and when I took my foot off of the accelerator it quit running.
Has a new fuel filter (6 months ago) and the PCV valve was replaced about a year ago.
Seems like it isn't firing on 2 or more plugs. Know that I snapped all electrical connectors onto the fuel injectors till the clicked and bottomed.
I thought it might just be fuel wasn't getting to the injectors but after 30 seconds the fuel should be pumping to all injectors.
What now.
Plugs not firing?
Injectors not firing?
What else?
What would you check next?
If your AC system needed charging and was depleted of refrigerant, your clutch would not engage.
You might see if you can grab the compressor (engine OFF of course :P ) and move it on its mounts--to see if it is loose, or perhaps the adjustment has come loose and the compressor is knocking against something
Remove the cabin air filter access door.
Remove the cabin air filter.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
The car will run fine with just a slight slip when changing gears. Then it will suddenly refuse to come out of 1st gear, revving high, until I lift my foot off the gas pedal. I have to do that each tie it changes gears but will never get to going over about 45 mph. It gets worse and worse, bogged down, like it doesn't have any power. Then it just crawls requiring me to pull over and sit. After it sits for a while, it goes back to driving fine with only the slight slip between gear changes.
Only other issues is that I felt water hit my feet yesterday when the air was on. Just a few drops. Turned off a/c but haven't noticed it since when using a/c.
A code for the catalytic converter is now reading. When I bought the car it was a code that had to do with the coil the spark plugs go into, but that code no longer reads.
I don't have any more money to sink into this but can't keep breaking down and having to sit on side of road with my children. Please let me know what you may think it could be.
thank you for your time in this.
happens and IAC fails to operate properly and Some have even had the Massairflow Sensor fail. the root cause is the vacuum leaks even if very small is all it takes. Manifold gaskets leak, even the intake hose gasket dries and leaks, pcv hose, all those plastic vacuum hoses can get brittle especially the rubber hoses on intake assembly. For those where weather changes happen a lot. Be ready to check for vacuum leaks after every season change. Should give anyone reading this some direction.