Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

pisgah · March 2001

ABS Light came on several months ago, intermittently. Had it checked. Replaced sensor. Problem continued. ABS brakes are OK according to the dealer, but they cannot determine the cause if it's not the sensor. The light doesn't come on every day, so they advise us to bring the car in when it is on. Any ideas about this problem?

97taurus · March 2001

Purchased this Taurus used...was pleased with service from car and dealer.....UNTIL....started noticing a "clunk" during accelleration and during "cruising" along....took in for maint.check (even used AAA service to initially do a check program...) Was told, the "clunk" was "just" they way Fords operated...nothing to worry about (which is easy as long as THEY are not the ones negotiating traffic in this machine!!!) Serious indications surfaced...as driving on freeway (LA 5pm Traffic)...heard loud CLUNK....spedometer went whacko, stopped functioning after bouncing a bit, drag in brief freeway accelleration but then into bumper to bumper , car remained mobile. (was on way to LA Staples for Kids concert...so HAD prescious cargo....)Return from concert...noticed FAILED acceleration onto freeway....but did finally reach speed and got home....Next am, seemingly NO problem....drove car thru the week, came time for weekend trip down coast for another "kid-cargo event...) noticed drag again upon entering freeway, clunk, then again no spedometer....got off freeway...in coastal area, hilly/curvey...but able to proceed at lower speed...additional clunks/felt "slippage" as if transmission unable to shift, lost STEERING at one point, managed to get to parking lot area. Car sat for two hours, gave "basic" check---no fluid leaks/etc....on return, kept to surface streets, again clunks and "slippage" ; once home, had other family members check-out....drove, but no clunks/etc. occurred even at vary-speeds. (car had sat briefly). Used around for short errands ,(was unable to make dealer maint. appointment). No problem detected. On same route this weekend--MAJOR problems. The loss of acceleration--had "floored" gas pedal--engine raced, but did NOT move vehicle....spedometer on and off, transmission DEFINITELY slipping and NOT engaging and stopping engagement when/during movement....THIS IS DANGEROUS in any traffic---the loss of control/in midstream especially hazardous.....would like info if others have had similar difficultites with this Taurus transmission.

sable93 · March 2001

I'm not sure if you saw any of my earlier posts, but my '97 Taurus needed a new transmission recently because it would skip second gear. As the transmission would warm up, it would slip, but then engage 2nd gear. It was getting worse and worse, so I got it replaced in November. I've noticed only a few klunks coming from my new transmission if I need power really quickly on the highway (from stop to go.) I push the peddle, and the car just klunked and didn't move. It has only done it once really badly. I have noticed though that the torque converter doesn't like to unlock when going up hills.

lmist2 · March 2001

With all the problems with the taurus, how do we start a class action suit?? my 97 taurus has engine knock problems and tranny problems. I've asked other people if there engine would ping or knock and they said yes. They just use a higher octane gas to stop it... That's wrong to do..
the car should run fine on 87 octane, you shouldn't have to go up to 92 octane to stop the ping. that octane wasn't ment for that car. as for the tranny problems I think ford has lousy trannies..

sable93 · March 2001

Well, if the new Tauruses ('96-'99) hold up as well as the Gen II Tauruses (as in, not well at all), pretty soon, there will be tons of people with transmission problems, door sensors failing, etc. I'm keeping all my receipts and waiting. Lawsuit money will make a great downpayment on a non-Ford car.

)

Also, it isn't just the trannies that are lousy. I think it is the engineers, or the management forcing the engineers to do subpar work.

2litl2late · April 2001

I brought my car to a mechanic to have the oil pan gasket replaced. After pulling things apart, they also discovered a hole in the oil pan...same problem I had with a previous Taurus. Replacement (oil pan, gasket, oil filter, exhaust gasket, oil, 3.7 hours labor) in upstate NY cost me $343.

sable93 · April 2001

Hi everyone,

The saga continues. My '97 has developed a squeeling (or squeaking) problem in the steering. It doesn't happen all the time. It only happens when I'm turning the steering wheel to the right and the wheels are facing toward the right. It doesn't happen when I'm turning the steering wheel to the right to return my wheels facing forward. Has anyone had a similar experience, or have any idea what it might be? The dealership tried lubricating it (supposedly) the last time I was there, but it had no effect. I wonder if they really did anything? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Zach

cable4dave · April 2001

My '93 Taurus has only 67k miles. I have had it in the shop numerous times due to stalling and missing problems. The garages and dealerships connect my car to their computer, but never find anything wrong - so they service the fuel injection system. This seems to temporarily help, but usually for only 5mo. or so. The problem is stalling at low RPM's and missing while cruising at low speeds. Typically, the stalling occurs while idling in Drive. The car doesn't stall or miss while in Park. Stalling is almost guaranteed while slowing to a stop for a traffic light. Weather is not a factor, this happens in the winter and summer. Also, the problem is not consistent. The car will drive perfectly for 3 or 4 days then revert back to the stalling and missing. I've changed the distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and plugs. Vacuum is good a the PCV, and the PCV is in good shape. Does anybody have any advice?

daich · April 2001

Hello Everyone, I am a new user to the townhall though I have been a regular visitor of this site for last one year. This site helped me buying a 98 Taurus SE (22K) with $10.5K, thanks Edmund's. The car is still under warranty. I was perfectly happy with this car till I did an oil change around beginning February. It started a burning smell from the vent when I stop at redlight. Went back to the dealer, who said it is because of oil spillage and will go away. But even today, the smell is strong. I never saw any fluid on the parking lot in the morning. Also recently, when I go uphill, I get whistling sound from the under the hood. I thought of pinging, changed the gas grade/make, not much of help. I have taken the car to two different dealers, they cannot find anything leaking and could not help with the whistling. Are these two linked?

I am now totally frustrated as to what's next. I love this car, it is perfect otherwise. If any one had a similar problem, can you give me some guidance? Also I live in Portland, does anybody know a good repair shop/dealer where I can go?

Sorry for the long post. I would sincerely appreciate any help.

davids10 · April 2001

To daich Re:Burning Smell;
I believe you are smelling oil and that it is because at the oil change too much oil was put in.
I had same problem in my '98 and '99 SE's.
Here is the scoop. Taurus calls for 4.5qts oil with a new filter and if you start it for a minute after the oil change and then let it sit, you will show oil about 1/2 way up in the cross-hatch area of the dipstick. Most people, even dealers, will fill up to the max line, but now you have way too much oil and it smells. The dipsticks are off for a Taurus. Why? I don't know. Solution- loosen your drain plug slowly and drain out about 12-16 ounces of oil. Bet the smell goes away. Also, the next time you put in 4.5qts, take a hacksaw blade and scratch a mark on your dipstick at the oil line so when you need to add oil, you know how far to go to get back to 4.5qts. You can go over the line some, but not much. Re: whistling sound; sounds like a vacuum leak, but someone would have to hear it to find out where it is coming from. Good luck!

riswami · April 2001

Interesting that you put in 4.5 quarts. That is what the owners manual says. I always thought they took 5 quarts, added 4.5 (oil and filter) for my first change and noticed the oil went halfwayup the cross-hatch area of the dipstick.

Asked the dealer how many quarts the Vulcan takes and they set 5. I've never had the oil smell. Do you think the extra 1/2 quart damages the engine. I understand that too much oil causes foaming and that isn't good for your engine.

alcan · April 2001

The oil level would have to be significantly higher than 1/2 quart "over-full" before it became high enough for the rotating crankshaft to contact it and cause oil aeration and foaming.

daich · April 2001

To davids10,

Thanks for the info. I took out some oil this morning (tried to measure it at 14 ounce), I will watch what happens. I have also found oil traces on the engine surface where the fuel injectors are connected. I probably will have to clean it up also. Will keep you all posted.

davids10 · April 2001

The suggestion of draining 1/2 qt of oil was meant to get the level to about 1/2 way in the cross-hatch area of the dipstick. An extra 1/2 qt may or may not cause foaming, but in my experience, if the oil level is to the max level of the dipstick or above, one will get the oil burning smell. And yes, dealers and quick-change shops will typically put in 5 qts. Why, probably because they can't charge for anything less than a full qt. An interesting note is that in a pre-'96 Taurus the 4.5qt fill will be almost to the top of the cross-hatch area. Not so '96 on. I am talking about the Vulcan 3.0 engine.
I have had 15 starting with the first Taurus in '86 so have a little experience with "goofy" things these cars do.

2wheeler · April 2001

When picking up my spouse at her school, our 97 Taurus started acting weird. The RPM would
race up to 3 & 4, but I was only going 45 to 50 mph. We made it home. I went back to my office, and it began to act up again, but this time it would only achieve a 20 mph while the RPM
gauge raced from 2 up to 4. I stopped on the Freeway. Someone came to my assistance, and
stated it was probably my transmission. I have it in the shop now. When We purchased it from the dealership, it was a progam car with 9,000 miles on it. I hve been very pleased with it up to
now. Also, I noted from a previous town hall ltr that someone is having a oil leak in the oil pan.
My mechanic stated that my oil pan gasket is leaking and that was due to a Ford defect due to
the types of screws they installed in the 97's. Now in the 2000 models, they have rubber coated
screws that prevent cracks caused by the ones in my 97 that creat the oil pan leakage.
I simply can not afford anymore auto repairs as I have sooo much due to recent medical bills.
What to do??

daich · April 2001

Well, the smell is gone after draining out oil. What a relief!! Thanks again to davids10. I got my fuel injectors cleaned as well and the whistling is gone too. Next time I will ask the dealer how much oil he puts in. Will it be OK if I just put 4.0 qts?

rttaz54 · April 2001

Folks,

I am looking at buying a new car for my wife and one of them is a Taurus with the larger 24 valve engine.
Should I stay away from Ford and the problems some are having? I have read the posts concerning the Mercury Sable and its problem with tranmissions and this engine.
Looking for pro and cons as we have to replace our 1991 Buick Skylark ( Blew a cylinder last year and other things have gone lately). Appreciate any responses.

ezaircon4jc · April 2001

My 4th Sable is a '96 with the Duratec. This was the first year for the motor. We now have just over 100k on it and the only major repairs are a water pump and a/c compressor clutch, both within the last couple of weeks. I consider this normal wear and tear. I have done the struts as they wear out around 75k, even on Japanese cars! I have been very anal about maintainence, just ask my wife! I changed the synthetic oil every 3-5k. The car runs just as well as it did the day we drove it home. We just bought a Lincoln LS with the same Duratec engine, tweeked a little to 210hp and 205flbtq. If the RWD LS wasn't so much more fun to drive, I'd be driving the Sable. Also the wife is afraid to drive the Lincoln. She says she doesn't like all my rules. You know, park next to a 4-door car, at least 2 miles from the mall!
I believe all cars can easily go 150k (our '91 had 175k when we bought the Lincoln) with regular service. Machines need to be treated like machines. Too many people just drive cars until something breaks, then complain that the car is defective. Regular service is the key. Anyway, I've loved every one of our Sables. Our '88 and '91 even had the "dreaded" 3.8L engine. We had no head gasket or cooling issues. The '88 had 125k and, like I said, the '91 175k. Hope this helps.

sable93 · April 2001

2wheeler,

Welcome to the club! Our membership is rapidly expanding! What was the mileage on your car when your transmission died? I have a '97 GL, and the transmission was replaced at approx 79,000 miles. I have a friend who's neighbor owns a '97 Taurus, and his transmission just died at 62,000 miles.

I think we all need to start considering a class action lawsuit against Ford. As time passes, I'm finding more and more people who own newer Tauruses that are having horrible transmission problems. It is pretty sad when you call a Ford dealership asking them how much a new transmission for a '97 Taurus costs, and they tell you they just priced one the day before. As far as I know, a transmission should last the life of the car, not the life of the car's windshield wipers

)

Anyone else in here with a '96 or newer Taurus/Sable with new transmission?

210delray · April 2001

I had a '90 Sable, purchased new. Its transmission lost 4th gear (overdrive) at 93K miles. It had to be replaced -- ouch!

And my car was carefully maintained.

sable93 · April 2001

210delray,

I hear you.. For some reason, Ford doesn't know how to build transmissions (or engines, or ac, or etc.)

They did change the transmission in '96 though, so the older Tauruses have different transmission problems than the new ones, although both sets of problems are unacceptable. I think there is (or was) a lawsuit going with the older transmissions, but I'm trying to get one started with the newer ones, because they are just as unreliable (and expensive) as the old ones.

merckx · April 2001

I just sold a 93 Taurus I'd had since new.In 93,000 miles it needed absolutely nothing!-I was amazed.The orgional brakes even passed inspection every year.I thought it the best car I'd ever owned.The transmission started slipping,though,and I sold it while I thought it still had some at least minimal value.I still reccommend the Taurus to friends,now though with a caveat about the transmission.I have always been amazed at how much value the car offers-perhaps though the trans is just built too much to a price.

99tse1 · April 2001

I Just got a '99 Taurus SE. Great car but it seems to be a bit of a gas HOG!!!! The Taurus has a Duratec V6 24 valve DOHC engine. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what grade of gas I should use & what brand? Had a '93 SHO that recently got totalled, I miss that car. The SHO got great mileage. PLEASE don't tell me 92 octane, I live in CALI and my pocketbook just can't take that this summer..... smile

ezaircon4jc · April 2001

My So. Cal. '96 runs just fine on regular. You can thank the environMENTALists and their MTBE in the fuel for our poor economy. I read that MTBE fuel has 10% less energy that regular fuel. I figure that equals a 10% reduction in MPG.

brightness · April 2001

I'm considering buying a 94/95/96 Taurus wagon as a second car in the family; not intended as a daily driver. From what I've read so far, tranny seems to the major problem area. Would the choice of the old 3.0 (Vulcan SOHC?) over the 3.8 (OHV?) with less torque reduce the failure rate of the tranny? Any other problem areas that I should be looking out for? BTW, Edmund is saying 140-150 hp for the engines, is there some kind of mistake? the numbers are very low for the big displacements; the torque number on the 3.0 is also very low (160lb-ft?). I'm considering Taurus wagon primarily for safety and versatility.

Jim

210delray · April 2001

Well, from my experience I'd say find another car.

I had the 3.0 V6 in my '90 Sable, and the transmission still failed (at 93K miles).

Yes, those horsepower and torque figures are correct. Still the car has adequate power.

Other problems: repeated a/c failures (expensive!), engine mounts, brake pulsation (warped rotors), water pump, alternator, front struts, starter, power door lock actuators (both rear doors), and turn signal/wiper switch (twice).

I had no serious engine problems and never touched the exhaust system.

Car was bought new and sold last summer at 135K miles.

davids10 · April 2001

Don't do 4.0qts. Remember, oil does 2 things. First it is a lubricant, second it is a coolant. At highway speeds most of the oil is up in the engine and not in the pan. 4.0qts is not much oil to begin with. Suggest that you pay for 5.0qts and have 4.5qts put in the engine and .5qt put in a container to take home so you can top off between changes as needed.

tomo66 · April 2001

Does anybody have any ideas, how to improve 12gal(city) and 18gal(hwy) fuel consumption?
Recently, I put new tune-up parts and check all sensors on a shop computer. Still no improvements.
What else?

matto2001 · May 2001

I am looking for a consensus here among fellow Taurus owners. I have a 99 Taurus that I bought used a year ago. It has about 48,000 miles now. When I try to run 87 octane fuel, it seems to knock lightly at low rpm (1500-2000) on the highway. This is more noticeable with the A/C on. When I accelerate, the knock does not seem to get any worse, if anything it becomes less noticeable. I have run expensive "total fuel system cleaner" through the tank twice in six months with no effect. I am trying to avoid using mid-grade (89 octane) fuel because it costs so much right now, $1.86 a gallon. I have been running the mid-grade for most of the time, but I'm trying to save money and don't know if the light knocking could damage the engine or just be a nuisance. Any input I get from this forum would be greatly appreciated.

210delray · May 2001

with the Vulcan engine, I had to use 89 octane most of the time to keep the engine from knocking. I had the car since new and sold it last summer at 135K miles.

ezaircon4jc · May 2001

I have had 4 Sables and the only tranny problem was at 85k on the '91. It was repaired under a recall. My current '96 has over 100k and the tranny is just fine.

davids10 · May 2001

There is a TSB on '99 3.0s to reprogram the computer to alleviate the pinging. May or may not cure your problem. Helped mine, but I still get a slight ping when it is hot outside and the air is on, and/or under a heavy load. Go to your Ford or Mercury dealer and have them check you VIN# to see if yours has been reprogrammed.

daich · May 2001

Well, I checked the oil level today morning before staring the car. Even at close to 4.0 qts, the level is in line with the max mark on the dipstick. I thought since it is within the limits, I don't have to add oil. But I will do so, can't afford to harm the engine. Now the smell is completely gone.

In the mean time I got the injectors cleaned and the computer reporgrammed. The whistling is much lower but not gone completely.

Surprisingly, the car seems too responsive now. It accelerates way much faster than it used to be. Do I take it as a good sign because of the cleaning or something else is going bad?

Thanks.

jd123 · May 2001

I'd swear I've seen this this problem posted elsewhere but can't find it. My Taurus wagon (2000 I/25k miles) develops a strong steering wheel vibration above 55 mph. Only happens when the car is going straight, disappears/is less apparent around any curve, no matter how slight. More obvious on concrete but occurs even on newly paved asphalt. Also, it's not constant. Have taken it to the dealer several times and always bring this up only to be told it's normal (seems to exceed 8.0 on the Righter scale at times in my opinion). Had the tires rotated with no impact.
Any suggestions? (And I also have that low ram pining.)

jd123 · May 2001

Sorry for the spelling in the above message. hadn't posted for awhile and thought I had told the computer not to correct my spelling (hence pinging became pining)

rover3500 · May 2001

Hello,

I am now on my second Taurus. My first was a 1990 wagon that I bought used as my very first auto. I finaly had to trade it in in 1999 when the A/C pooped out. The car was great. Cosmetically great in and out, and ran even better. I tradded her in for a 98 taurus thinking that I would get the same rugged vehicle that would just keep going. MAN WAS I WRONG!!! The car has been back to the dealer some 6 times for the same bloody problem. Before coming to a complete stop the car will downshift VERY harshly. At one point it was doing this so badly that it actually caused a thermal mug to pop out of the flip fold console!! Thankfully it was empty. I finally got so disgusted with the dealership where I had bought the car I decided it was time for a second opinion at another for dealership. This Ford dealership was far more friendly, but the problem for the most part is still there. They went ahead and reprogrammed the computer, and replaced the throttle position sensor. The other dealership wrang up almost $5,000 in poorly done "patch job" repairs. The replaced the 2 fwd clutch cylinders (3 times), the clutch bands (Twice), torque stator, and neumerous other things, and the car still bucks and has an overall sloppy gearchange. I am a stickler when it comes to autos, and Itake great care of my cars. I am also not one to beat on my cars, though I am known to go a little faster than the local police would like 8^). Over all I am profoundly disappointed with Ford Motor Co. as a whole. I am an auto design student myself and have tried to rationalize all of the problems, but enough is enough. I am trading the taurus in next month for a Pontiac.

Disgusted,

Aaron

davids10 · May 2001

Re: 4.0qts at max line. Don't know why 4.0qts brings the dipstick to max unless the oil was just changed and the engine had not been started to get the filter filled. Or, Perhaps your dipstick is calibrated differently from the ones I have seen. In any case, put in 4.5qts, see where the level is on the dipstick for future reference, and if there is no smell; all is well. I assume we are referring to the 3.0 Vulcan engine and not the Duratec. Re: too good performance. Leave it alone, as they say "don't look a gift-horse in the mouth". Re: whistling. I still think there is a vacuum leak somewhere, but if it is not severe, let it be. Your dealer can mess too many other things up trying to find it. Just occurred to me; did you just have your oil changed somewhere? If so, maybe they put in more than 4.0qts and led you to believe they put in only 4.0.

lolly3 · May 2001

Exiting freeway the car suddenly died.
Oil & coolant had mixed. Head gaskets gone...needs $6K worth of repairs(more than worth of car). It had less than 80K miles. I keep hearing about "secret" and "goodwill" warranties and technical service bulletins (TSBs) regarding this same problem...but Ford Customer Service Phone Line was of no help. Does anyone have a similar situation or advice for what I should do next????

riswami · May 2001

out on my 97 GL. Both of them. Is it a switch? Haven't checked the owners manual - but I doubt if a fuse is the problem.

Anyone have any ideas or run into this problem. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

cnybro · May 2001

Mine just did yesterday. Local shop pulled the code and #2 cylinder was misfiring due to bad coil pack. The intake plenum has to be pulled to access the part. The coil is about $125. While the plenum is off, it makes sense to change the plugs and wires. Really irritating that the plenum has to be pulled just to access these parts - really drives up the labor cost! Anyway, this will be a $450 trip! Can't complain since this is the first time is 5 years and 60K miles the car has given my any trouble. Standard wear and tear.

So, if your's is misfiring and there are no other obvious signs, this could be the culprit.

maurer · May 2001

I have a 1999 Ford Taurus SE with a intermittent problem. The radio/ac display doesn't always display. I still have functionality just no display. Before I take it to the Ford garage, I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem?

carlile · May 2001

I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SE. It fairly shoots out of the drive every morning and doesn't seem to calm down even after getting going. It's hard to stop (at least harder than my previous car). I just bought it last month (22,000 mi). I took it in today for service on this problem and the serviceman told me this is normal on 2000 Taurus/Sables, although my brother has a 2001 Taurus that has the same problem on starting but after driving his, it's normal from there on and no problem with stopping. Mine requires a harder foot on the brake. I think this is a safety hazard. Does anyone have this similar problem or have heard of this? Thanks, I'm stumped since the Ford dealership says all's ok. Joyce

jd123 · May 2001

Took the car to the dealer. They agreed there was a vibration with two sources. One was the brakes so they machined the front and rear rotors.
I was then told by the service guy in a snide manner that I have to take care of my tires better. They said because they weren't rotated, they would need to be replaced. I replied that they had been rotated on a regular basis. They said not by them. I mentioned it was down by my local place just down the block. Plus, I had mentioned the vibration my previous four visits and every time was told the vibration was "normal". Would really tick me off to replace 4 tires (Firestone ffinity) w/just over 25k on them.
Any suggestions?

herbeez · June 2001

I bought my 96 Taurus with 63k miles and the prior owner had the trans replaced at 48k. I thought if there is a tranny problem it was taken care of! Not so fast! This trans only lasted 25k and started slipping out of second gear. So I now have $2600 invested in the third trans! After owning 2 Taurus's, my next car may be something else. Of course, I haven't even discussed the need for a $500 catalytic converter and a new rack & pinion!

210delray · June 2001

After reading all of these horror stories even on later model Tauruses, I'm glad I sold my '90 Sable last summer at 135K miles. It had the famous transmission, a/c, and warped rotor problems, and much, much more.

I'm also glad I DIDN'T buy a lightly used '95 or '96 Taurus in 1997 as I was seriously considering. (I thought that Ford had cleaned up its act.) I ended up buying a new 1997 Camry instead.

taurus69 · June 2001

I owned an 87' Taurus from DEC 97 until DEC 2000 and I have to tell someone about what a terrific car it was. I bought it for a lousy 1200 dollars Canadian when I was sixteen at 270 000 km. I treated the car like a typical teenager, constantly peeling out and playing bumper tag with friends. Other then needing to replace the heater core, this high mileage car never needed repair, and survived the torture I put it through. I was forced to give it up when the tranny went but now I am in the market for a new Taurus. What kind of moron would opt for an Accord or Camary over a Taurus, especially when a Taurus is available with such beefy motors such as the 3.8. I would like to recommend a Taurus to anyone in the market for a mid sized sedan.

210delray · June 2001

This "moron" is quite happy with the Camry compared to the Sable! I have the 4-cylinder, but the V6 has 194 hp and 209 lb-ft of torque, compared to 200 hp and 200 lb-ft for the Taurus Duratec V6.

Maybe you lucked out, but just read the last 20 or so posts for a sampling of typical woes.

Then again, you only had it for 3 years, and the transmission did go out, didn't it?

han10 · June 2001

I have a '94 Taurus wagon with 3-liter V6 Vulcan engine. Around 58,000 miles the car stalled intermittently - even after a complete tune-up with new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, fuel filter, etc. I was told by a Ford Dealer and also by an outstanding mechanic, who owns his repair garage, that it is very difficult to locate the stalling problem because it could be caused by many factors. Both of them told me that the best way to locate the real cause of stalling is when a particular hardware causing stalling broke down and I have the car towed in. One day my engine starter broke down and I had my car towed to this mechanic's garage, he replaced the starter and also found out that a solenoid-operated AIR PUMP was bad and that should be the cause of stalling. This Air Pump is about 5-inch long and 1.5 inch in diameter. It has Ford part # F3DE-GB WH. I have driven this car for 4000 miles without any stalling. This Air Pump controls/affects air flow to the engine. To fix your stalling problem, I recommend to get your car a new Air Pump.

riswami · June 2001

Got to wonder why I read these post. When you ask a specific question you get squat.

What I see is a lot of complaining or opinions. Doubt that? Go read the Sythetic Oil topic. They are up to 1592 post. Most of them are totally useless and based upon zippo! Don't believe me, read em. One guy claims his engine starts faster with synthetic.

As far as the moron remark, big deal! You like your Camry, great. What you haven't figured out is the premium you paid for that car. They break down like everything else. It is all about dollars and cents! If it wasn't you wouldn't be driving a Camry. Gee, he told you he abused the crap out of the car. Guess if it was a Toyota that wouldn't have happened? Why are you even reading a Ford post? You've already made your mind up that their garbarge.

I'm out of here for now. There just is too little value and not enought substance with 95% of the post.

moron3 · June 2001

I had a '93 tours AL sedan with less 10,000 silage. Recently, the charging light keeps on after the engine starts. This happened twice and lasted about 10 minutes while I was driving at the speed of 25 mph. However, after a rest of two hours, when the car is started again, no such problem at all. The third evening, the same problem repeated. This time I let it working at 45 mph and the light went out after 10 minutes or so ( I was still on the road at that time). It seems to me that this happens when the vehicle is not working for a relative "long" time, say a whole day.

I am wondering if this is related to the new battery. One week before, the vehicle refused to start. which is believed due to the old battery. Then I changed battery. Maybe the battery is not very well connected...

Could b. who has better knowledge on vehicles help me to figure out what's going on there?

Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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