Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

wdust · November 2001

My '99 Taurus SE has a very noisy engine and it is so bad that a 'buzz' is felt through the floor pan and steering column. I have heard similar complaints from others who did not buy because of this. This model has a single exhaust, while the '98 dual exhausts were quieter. The dealers say this is normal however I am looking for a fix. Suggestions?

vince4 · November 2001

My 2000 SE doesn't have a hint of that type of noise. Something must be loose and rattling. Check for loose sheet metal covers, etc. Also shine a flashlight carefully on each motor mount to make sure there isn't a defective one (broken/missing rubber, cracked metal...). Get someone to rev it up while you check for noise location. Most of all, take it to a better dealer.

gkarg · November 2001

Just found the problem with my 92 Continental with the 3.8 (same as many of you taurus/sable owners... so i thought i'd share...)

I was experiencing no power going up hills or moderate throttle.

I finally replaced my motor mounts after letting the front one be broken for a long time (DON'T do this... replace immediately!)

Turned out that the Flex pipe immediatley behind the catalytic converters had a lining of the same wire mesh material that is on the outside of the flex. it had bunch up (because of the motor mount) and only about 3/4" opening was left for exhaust.

The replacement is well over $100 and it doesn't have the mesh lining inside.

My 3.8 - is like brand new! (Just wait till the head gaskets go...)

sws43081 · November 2001

Maintained the car to spec. First trans failed at 37,000 miles. Second trans failed at 86,000 miles. Third trans failed at 102,000 miles. Decided to trade in car in lieu of paying for a fourth trans. Same problem occurred 2nd, 3rd & 4th times - slip when shifting into 2nd gear. Dealer diagnosis was internal leak. Ford solution was for me to pay $2500 per remanufactured trans. Bought a Honda.

vince4 · November 2001

Sad story. I hope some day we don't read so many stories like yours about American cars. Lest we all forget, there are good American car stories too! Just this weekend a lady called Car Talk, she had over 200k miles on a Chevy Lumina van and it still ran fine.

fuji_hi_ltd · November 2001

HELP HELP HELP!!! I have a nice 1990 Taurus LX, with the optional instaclear heated windshield, however there is one problem, my windshield has a crack in it now, and Ford says been out of production for 7 years, replace it with a regular taurus windshield. I have also been to many many many junkyards in the area, to no avail, only have seen one of these windshields, and it was smashed to bits. I was also told this incorrect information by someone at a salvage yard, that this windshield was recalled due to fire hazard. However I checked with the Ford customer care center at 1800241ford and they say exactly what 2 dealers told me, to have the windshield wires for the instaclear unhooked, and get a regular windshiled installed. My delemma is this, when this thing was working it was great!! I dont want to loose an option I paid good money for. My taurus has been very good, and have only had to replace tranny one time. Just turned over 100k. DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND A USED INSTACLEAR WINDSHIELD FOR A TAURUS SEDAN??? HELP HELP HELP!!

torodave · December 2001

Looking for advice/opinions/reviews of the Vulcan engine vs. the Duratec. Want to buy an '02 wagon and not sure if I should spend the extra money on the Duratec. Particularly interested in repair/maintenance issues. Thanks.

easyrider300m · December 2001

I junked it last year with 130k on the dial--it needed about $200 worht of work--distributor pickup) so I felt it was time to dump it as it also had a rough idle and would tend to run very hot due to replacing radiator with a korean job--I had to run it with a low temp thermostat for it not to overheat---It still had original engine and tranny and didnt burn any oil--I would usually change oil every 3K and tranny fluid every 20K---I did a head gasket at 90k (cost just $400 as I knew the mechanic very well)---rotors were just about shot--I didnt turn them last time I changed the pads as they were getting too thin---I had replace 2 water pumps, 2 alternator, 4 batteries and brakes every 20K--also replaced the radiator, flywheel, and two ignition switches--and also the right ball joint and all 4 struts--the rear window stopped working at about 70K but I never fixed them--

overall, I felt I got good service for the 13k I bought if for when new--

ezaircon4jc · December 2001

My '96 Sable has 105k with NO issues. The Duratec is a great motor, IMHO. It still feel as quick as the day we brought it home, and it is quick! I've used synthetic oil since about 5k miles. I think you'll be VERY satisfied with the Duratec!

charliebrown62 · December 2001

I own a 1999 Ford Taurus Wagon, with the Duratec engine. I love this car !!! No mechanical problems to date, only small items like a sticking seatbelt, etc. I'm a firm believer in buying the best components when I buy a car, and insist on it because I have found that if you buy the cheaper ones, they almost always end up costing you more ultimately. For instance, I have the Duratec engine in my car because it will take a beating and still not break down as fast as the Vulcan.
Don't listen to those people who change their oil any less than every 5,000 miles, they probably also don't take care of other problems that occur, when they happen. Also, use a good quality and well respected name when buying motor oil, and use synthetic oil all the time. My wife left the engine running on a previous car I owned (trying to cool it off in the summer heat), when the radiator hose ruptured and sent the temperature gauge needle soaring. If I had regular oil in the cars engine, the engine would have been destroyed. Luckily, I had Synthetic oil in it. The oil kept the engine from overheating and seizing.
This is the first Ford I have ever owned, and most likely I will buy another Taurus as my next car. Most importantly, the Ford Taurus is a very safe car to be in if one is in an accident. I feel comfortable knowing that I have a much better chance of surviving a serious car accident while in my Taurus, than the vast majority of people who are driving other cars !!!!

torodave · December 2001

For the info. Now I'm torn! I was going to go with the Vulcan to save the $1,500 it costs up here (in CDN dollars), but now you're making me wonder. I had been thinking that the more complex motor (Duratec) might be more expensive to repair down the road (like when the warranty expires). I drove a Vulcan on the weekend, and the performance was adequate, but far from exciting, but it's a wagon, right? Not a Mustang. Guess I'll ponder it some more, but I want to make the deal this week, so I better decide in a hurry! One other thing. I know we have to break in the engine with mineral oil, but what's the scoop on when one can switch over to synthetic? I usually change my oil every 3 mos/3,500 mi. using regular oil (whatever the dealer puts in). It's a good excuse to get the car looked at every 3 mos. too. But with synth. I expect the change intervals could be extended quite a bit? A spring/fall change schedule? Otherwise it would be pretty expensive. On the safety front, that's one of the foremost reasons I'm buying one too. Safety, room, versatility, value. Hard to argue with that! Thanks again.

jim7heaven7 · December 2001

Its about time to send the old lady to pasture. I have about 175,000 miles on this card and hard miles at that. The suspension is about gone and the breaks are starting to grind up front. I just dont want to put any more money into this car for suspension repair and brakes. I had to put another trans on at 100,000 miles, a custom none OEM trans that is still going strong as well as a heater core or two over the life of this car, other that that, I have had no problems. Engine is still strong and willing. Since the suspension is bad I dont drive it on the highway anymore. The next car I will purchase is a Hyndai Sonata LX, with ABS, Traction control and Moonroof. Just test drove one and this car rocks and is rock solid. Well everyone have great luck with your Taurus. Mine has done its job and done it well, I will hopefully get another 1000 miles out of her before I send her off.

jim7heaven7 · December 2001

Sorry.

ezaircon4jc · December 2001

I put synthetic in my '96 Sable at 1000 miles, again at 3k, then every 5k or so after that. On my Lincoln LS I put syn in at 500 and 1200. As I got free oil changes up to 24k, I had the dealer put in dino every 3k. At 20ish I put syn back in. Changed it at 25k and plan to go 10k between changes with a filter every 5k. I use Mobil1 oil and filters.

It IS your decision, but I can't recommend the Duratec enough (my LS also has the Duratec, although "opened" up a bit

). We had an '86 Sable with the Vulcan. It was adequate, but no more. The first time you have a load in the back and you're trying to climb that hill/mountain, you'll appreciate the extra 50 horses and 50ish lbft of torque!

Enjoy, whatever you decide!

torodave · December 2001

It was a tough decision, but I think it will be adequate, and reliable, so what the heck. The SEL wagon is a nice vehicle overall, now the dealer just has to locate one for me with the safety package! They had located one before I signed the deal, then it suddenly became unavailable, now they can't find one. What a surprise. So, no 200 hp. Ah, well, didn't someone say something about power being a corrupting influence? Thanks to all who provided comments/advice. I'll stay in touch!

charliebrown62 · December 2001

Take it easy on the Vulcan engine, it should be ok if you don't push it too hard. Let the car break in until about 500 miles, then change it to a quality synthetic. Then, don't ever use anything else. The synthetic keeps the engine well lubricated and very clean. Warning: In the US, Ford allows you to change the oil every 5,000 miles without voiding the warranty, and that is the extent of it. Check and see what the required oil change intervals are and don't go past them.
I have found that even at 5,000 miles, the oil still looks clean. Keep the engine clean and you will probably be driving it for a long time. Also, let the engine run for at least 15-20 seconds before putting it in gear, it gives the engine a good lubrication before starting out on the road

joecug · December 2001

I have a 93 taurus with the 3.8 V6.
I beleive the head gasket is going.
Oil shows up in the coolant, oil is
discolored grey, harder starting etc.
I'm not going to do a gasket job since the car has 135K. Has anyone had
experience with head seal treatments,
additives etc. Would rather put $250
into the car and stagger along for a
year. I had 95 with the 3.8 which
blew and was repaired under the 100000
recall. Car never ran well after that
repair. If anyone knows how well these
gasket treatments work info would be
appreciated.
BTW own a Crown Vic with the 4.6 V8
NO problems. Ford can make a good engine
if they have to. Since CV is sold to
police depts they have to.

sugarcookie · December 2001

I bought a "preowned" 98 Taurus in 1999 with 23000 miles on it. IN the beginning, it was a mechanical nightmare. The shop had the car more than I did for the first year. After I made sure everything was fixed while under warranty, I was satisfied except for the transmission. The Ford dealership said there was no problem, but I knew better. However, you can't argue with factory reps. I also tried contacting ford through e-mail and they were of no assistance. I became totally frustrated with ford. I like my car. I have all the toys including the big V-6. Howwever, I know my transmission is slipping slightly as I can feel it and my gas mileage has diminished a bit. I WILL NEVER buy another Ford product. I will wither go GM or foreign from now on. I had a Buick Regal prior to this car and I positively LOVED it! However, it had alot of mileage on it and I often go out of state by myself and was concerned about breaking down. I gave it to my son and then my daughter. She sold it only after she could afford a newer vehicle. I am presently selling my son's t-bird and I bought him a Chevey Blazer ( which I love ). My husband also has a Blazer. So, I word to the wise - if you are thinking about buying a ford - DON'T! The product stinks and so do the dealerships.

torodave · December 2001

That's how I feel about GM, after 5 years of Grand Am ownership. I've owned 15 cars, English, French, American, Japanese, you name it, and the Grand Am has been the worst. Nothing but problems since day one, and I haven't had good experience dealing with GM on these issues, either. Even though I have $2,500 in GM points on my VISA card, I bought a Taurus this time, because I had a good experience with an '89 I bought new and drove for 5 years, and because I'm hearing good things from people who own new ones. My Grand AM has been in the shop every 3 months since I bought it new. Some of the problems include: pwr steering pump, suspension bushings, struts, strut bearings, steering column bushings, alternator, carpet disintergrating in non-wear areas, locks not working, doors rattling in frames, rust bubbling along lower window gaskets, intake manifold gasket replacement, supposedly clogged injectors (I was told by the service dept. that the 3.1 litre engine "doesn't like Canadian gas")...so many things that i'm starting to forget them all. GM makes a few good cars, like the Buicks with the 3800 motor, and some trucks, but that's about it as far as I can tell. I think they make more bad cars than good. Too bad you had all that trouble with your Ford. From what I've read on the net, your case would be more the exception than the rule. But it just goes to show that it only takes one bad experience to put someone off a brand for life (like both of us). Too bad car makers don't worry about that a little more. Ford certainly isn't innocent, with their 3.8 litre head gaskets and plastic intake manifolds on the 4.6 that crack.

trebor10 · December 2001

We have a 99 24v with 16K miles. There is vibration in the steering when the brakes are pressed and a slight pulsing in the steering when turning.
Took the car back to the Texas AutoNation Ford dealer where we bought the car. They quickly turned the rotors and said nothing else was needed. I do not understand why there was a problem to begin with. I asked them check out the car carefully expecting them to find a cause for the symptom.

Am I missing something here? We have a second 99 that I have put 46K on (daily 52 mile commute to downtown) that does not have the brake problem. What is considered normal for re surfacing rotors? What are normal wear parameters? Are Ford rotors inferior to others? I have heard they are thinner. Where might I find unbiased written documentation of that to share with the service manager who will acknowledge no shortcomings whatsoever and acts as though I just fell of a turnip truck. I have a history with car dealers and do not trust them and their shops. The service manager acts as though Taurus' have never had rotor problems. He also stated that turning them would not have any negative affect on the problem re-occurring even though they would be thinner and therefore not dissipate heat as well.

My 89 Taurus went through 3 sets of rotors before Ford replaced them a forth time which corrected the problem for good.
That car was traded in at 118K after complete AC replacement @ 90K and transmission rebuild at 68K, paint went bad as well.
Transmission was at least partially my fault. Only had the fluid replaced once during the 68K and that was not a flush, just a drop pan and clean filter. I have since learned better.

alcan · December 2001

You had a warped rotor. Somebody probably tightened the wheel nuts with an impact gun. Happens every day to just about every brand of car. What specifically are you asking when you say "what is considered normal for resurfacing rotors" and "what are normal wear parameters"? Do you want original thickness specs, machining limits, minimum wear thickness, allowable lateral runout, parallelism specs?

vince4 · December 2001

I got my 2000 with 8800 miles on it (company car) and it had warped rotors. Dealer said it's "within spec" and balanced the tires. Helped a little but the problem isn't gone. I think it's a common Taurus complaint and I don't believe it has anything to do with lug nuts.

trebor10 · December 2001

alcan, thank you for your input. I want to understand when (under normal circumstances) one would expect to need to turn rotors (miles, brake pad change, etc.). And, how to limit problems in the future. The Dealer found nothing wrong with the braking system but they are sure it is fixed. ???? Are they saying they just have no way to know what happened but since the car is under warranty they will fix it?

So in some cases warped rotors can be corrected by cutting them, yes? Does cutting the rotors reduce the heat dissipation ability of the rotor and increase the potential of warping again?

I have watched when the tires were rotated and balanced and they did use a torque limiting device. Are you thinking the Discount Tire store is contributing to or causing the warping? Even though they are using this limiter? Are you saying that I should not allow someone to use an impact gun on the car? I expect that even the Ford dealer uses impact guns when they change or rotate tires.

How did you learn all about rotors and stuff?

210delray · December 2001

Unfortunately, there are no fixed guidelines for how often rotors should be turned. It's like asking how often should brake pads be replaced. There's too much variability in driving styles, terrain, original thickness of the rotors, etc.

I had my front rotors start to warp around 17K miles in my '90 Sable, so it looks like Ford hasn't solved the problem in later models.

But the front rotors on my '80 Volvo (with 235K miles) have never been turned (or replaced), and the rears have been turned only once (to remove scoring).

BTW, the answers to the questions in your 2nd paragraph are yes and yes, IMHO.

ezaircon4jc · December 2001

I've had VERY good wear from NAPA premium rotors. I replaced the factory rotors with these and my warping issues went away. IMO, the FORD factory rotors are on the "cheap" side. I also upgraded to carbon-metallic pads. My '96 Sable stops on a dime and tries to give change

charliebrown62 · December 2001

Like I said in an earlier posting, I have found that by putting only high quality parts in your car, you will save a lot of grief in the long term.

When replacing rotors and brakes, buy the quality, name brand only parts. I like Bendix brand. They have saved me from having the kind of trouble that trebor10 has been having. I used to have the same problems when I put the cheaper parts in my cars. NEVER Again will I use cheap parts.

Unless the brake parts are covered under a recall, warranty, or other, take the car to a shop that will install your pre-purchased quality parts, or one that purchases quality parts and installs them automatically.

torodave · December 2001

Can't argue with any of the above. In my experience, using an impact gun can overtighten lug nuts, causing warping. I always use a torque wrench, and try to re-torque them myself after a shop has had them off, unless I know they tighten them by hand using a torque wrench. Better quality shops will, but I don't know about Ford dealers (not that they're not 'quality shops' but they deal with a lot of volume, so may use a gun to speed things up). Impact guns take a lot of abuse, and their torque settings are often inaccurate. I think a rule of thumb that some people subscribe to is that you turn the rotors every second pad change, but I don't turn them unless there's a reason. If the pedal doesn't pulse, there's no pitting, scoring, etc., why turn them? It does shorten their life and reduce heat dissapation ability.

On another note, I finally got my new SEL wagon. Love it so far. One thing did happen though that I'd like to ask you all about. AFter an hour on the hi-way, I stopped for a bit. Then started up again, and the ABS light stayed on. Went to a Ford dealer, but they were getting ready to close up, so left there, and the light went out. Hasn't happened since. Car only had a couple hundred miles on it when this happened. Any ideas? If it doesn't happen again, I won't bother taking it in, but I am curious about it. Wonky sensor? Something sticking?

Happy holidays everybody!

tomo66 · January 2002

Does anybody have any ideas, how to improve
10-12 miles/gal(city) and 18-20 miles/gal(hwy) fuel consumption?
Recently, I put new tune-up parts and check all sensors on a shop computer. Still no improvements. I also did state emission test and car passed it with NO PROBLEMS.
What else?
I didn't touch OXygene Sensor. Should I try a new one($60 + my labor)?
Thanks

mrdetailer · January 2002

It improved mileage on my vehicle when I replaced it at 170,000 miles by 3-5%. I'm going to make OXY sensors a regular maintenence item.

Synthetic transmission and engine oils can also help reduce mileage a little.

My Dad's 3.0 Taurus gets great mileage on the road, but not good at all around town.

brynorli · January 2002

I just bought a 2000 Taurus SE wagnon. Running great so far. Has about 40,000 km or 24,000 mi. I can get a 150,000 km full (like new) warranty for $2200 Cdn. ($1500 US). This would give me 4 1/4 more years of new car warranty. How is this Ford for major problems--tranny, head gaskets, etc.? Any thoughts?

torodave · January 2002

Personally, I haven't seen anything to make me worry about the 2000 and newer Taurus (which is one reason I just bought a 2002). Never been a big fan of extended warranty's. For what you pay, I imagine you rarely get your money's worth, unless you buy a lemon. But if you've done your homework and bought a good car, perform proper maintenance, and don't drive the crap out of it, I'd say save your money. $2200 buys a lot of repairs. I think the head gaskets were only problems on the old 3.8 litre engines, and tranny's have been better since 2000. From what I've read, a lot of the tranny problems could be solved by good maintenance habits, and making sure they get all the fluid out (including the converter) when they do a change. My brother has a '99 with 90K on it, and parents have a '00 with 10K (hey, they're old) and neither have had any problems to date. Good luck!

mralan · January 2002

Have the newer Taurus models improved?

I've read post on this message board suggesting that models later than 2000 are much improved from a reliablity stand point.

carlson123 · January 2002

My mother has a 99 Taurus with about 30k
miles on it. The engine will turn over but
won't start, then all of a sudden for no apparent
reason it will start up. She had one mechanic look at
it, scratched his head for a couple of hours
then it just started up all of a sudden. The next
time it happened she brought it to the dealer
and it started up for them and they couldn't
find anything wrong.

I haven't been able to determine under what
conditions it happens, but I think each time
the engine was cold (Minnesota cold not just
room temp).

Any ideas would be appreciated

torodave · January 2002

As I've said, I think the 2000 and up are improved. Frankly, I've yet to read anything negative about them. The Financial Post here in Toronto recently had a glowing review of the SEL. They no longer offer the problem-prone 3.8 litre engine in the Taurus, and I think they've improved the tranny, which has been a source of problems in the past. Maybe you could get a list of improvements by emailing Ford from their website. The only negative thing I can say about mine is that the shift into 4th gear is a bit rough, but I'm guessing that's related to converter lock-up at too low a speed to increase fuel mileage. Anyone else notice this? If anything goes wrong with my '02, or my parents '00, I'll be sure to let you all know!

ehenness · January 2002

Could it be that the fuel pump cutoff switch is getting flaky? There's a switch on the right side of the trunk that works on inertia. When the car gets a fairly hard jolt or rolls over, the switch kills the fuel pump so that gas doesn't continue to flow to the engine when there's been (or it thinks there's been) an accident. The switch can also be tripped by a hard bump against the bumper, etc. You have to push the button on the top of the switch to reset it. If it's been tripped, the engine will crank, but no fuel will be delivered, so the car won't start.

I wonder if the switch in your mom's car is working intermittently in the cold and causing the problem? The dealer ought to have been able to find some of the other stuff under the hood (though intermittent problems can be tough to find conclusively).

The switch is explained in the owner's manual, and it also has a sticker near it on the right side wall of the trunk. The next time the car does this, have your mom press the switch in and try starting the car again. If it starts, the switch is the problem. If not, then something else would obviously be wrong. But it's easy enough to try it.

willis3 · January 2002

I had my oil changed this past weekend, and noticed that my coolant was nearly
depleted. So I refilled the coolant, ran the engine and checked again. I found the coolant
had turned to a brownish color.

After doing a bit of research, I found that there was a general recall issued to install a
cooling system by-pass installation kit (TSB 98B23). Being the second owner of this car, I was never notified. I'm going to flush the radiator, but I'm starting to worry that there might be a head
gasket problem.

Have any other of you Taurus/Sable owners experienced this problem? Did you get the
recall work performed?

I learned that this is a problem only on 96 & 97 Taurus/Sables. They probably changed
the design beginning in 98.

Any help/experiences would be appreciated.

vince4 · January 2002

Coolant will get that way if it hasn't been changed in a long time and if the ratio of water was too high. Flush the system out good and put in a 50-60% antifreeze mix. Then wait and see what happens, probably there is nothing wrong and it will stay green.

Symptoms of a blown head gasket
-white smoke from the tail pipe
-acrid burnt smell to the radiator and fluid
-foam on the engine oil dipstick

Someone at work had that radiator recall done on his. He said it always ran hotter after that. Unfortunately his engine "blew" like 10 or 20k miles later. I don't know what blew but he replaced the whole engine. Probably just a head gasket. I don't know if the recall had anything to do with it but I'd find out what they are doing and keep an eye on the temperature. Maybe a cooler thermostat would be in order.

willis3 · January 2002

Thanks for the information. I will keep you updated on what happens after the flush.

teo · January 2002

Issues related to the Ford Taurus:

http://www.lemonaidcars.com/

mralan · January 2002

That article refers to post 98 Tauruses. The new Taurus is much improved in engines, transmissions, and safety.

super3056 · January 2002

I have a 1999 Taurus. The car started making a grinding noise immediately after the engine was started and the key released. 'Took it to dealer under warranty, starter was replaced, and problem ended. 12,000 miles later problem has started again. It only happens when the car is cold (hasn't been run for several hours).

Anyone heard of this before?

q45man · January 2002

http://www.blueovalnews.com/

use the search function to zero in on the model and its alleged problems. This site has been sued by Ford more than any other! Some how they get hold of internal docs and reports. FYI:

"Well past the average of 4.51, the #8 position went to the Atlanta Assembly Plant, which makes the Taurus, Sable and all SHO models. It's interesting that the two Taurus/Sable assembly plants have such a high difference in paint quality - especially considering the assembly processes are the same. The Atlanta assembled Taurus/Sables experience 3.2 times the paint quality problems than do Chicago assembled models"

"On 30 August 1999, Ford issued a statement saying that it planned to ask U.S. District Judge Nancy G. Edmunds to ban the site (BlueOvalNews.com) permanently at hearing in Detroit's Federal Court. BlueOvalNews attorney Mark Pickrell successfully argues that Ford's proposal would be Unconstitutional. On 07 September 1999, Judge Edmunds ruled against Ford. "

mralan · February 2002

Anyone using synthetic transmission fluid in their Taurus? I'm looking for recommendations. I'm considering Royal Purple or Amsoil.

brucer2 · February 2002

It depends on the year of your Taurus. For the last couple of years, Ford has been using Mercon V ATF in most of their transmissions. It is an "upgraded" Mercon IV/Dexron fluid. If your transmission calls for Mercon V, make sure the fluid is indicated as meeting Mercon V specifications.

gsleve · February 2002

tombo4 · February 2002

Just had the brake light switch replaced on my 2000 Taurus for the second time (thankfully still under warranty). They wiped away the excess grease from the adjustablel pedals but it keeps leaking into the switch. Kind of freaky when you have to drive around with your brake lights always on until you get to the Ford dealer. Other than this, it's a pretty good car with no problems so far.

mralan · February 2002

I've been experiencing weird brake noise (chatter) while braking in a turn. I don't think it's warped rotors. It only does this when I'm turning. Any ideas?

Oh, I have an 01 SES with ABS.

dmarabella · February 2002

I have a 99 Taurus SE with about 45K miles. I've been noticing a strange whirring noise lately. The noise is speed sensitive, and unrelated to RPM or gear. The noise occurs between 33 and 38 MPH, 43 and 48 MPH, and up around 65 MPH. I've tested it in different gears, and the noise always occurs within the given speed ranges, regardless of how high/low the engine is revving. There's also a slight vibration along with the noise, but it's really slight. All fluids check out OK.

What could it be?

vince4 · February 2002

mralan,

The car is under warranty, let the dealer look at it. Of course odds are they will say they can't hear it. Mine would anyway.

dmarabella,

First thing that comes to mind is something tire or wheel related. Maybe a bad tire, less likely a wheel bearing etc. How about some loose trim flapping in the wind? If your tires are worn out anyway then maybe give that a shot. I'd put it on a jack and rotate each wheel by hand. You can't get the same speed but maybe it's there quietly at slower speeds. Other than that think about what turns at vehicle speed, not engine speed. Really the only thing left is the transaxle after the transmission. Check the CV joint boots on the both front axles, make sure they aren't cracked or leaking grease.

mralan · February 2002

Hi, vince4

I wasn't sure if the brake problem would be covered under warranty. They may claim it's a wearable part. I guess your right though, I can have them look at it.

Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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