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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    You obviously don't live in California. If only my dealer was half that accommodating I'd be happy.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    No, Wisconsin. Our winter ravaged roads probably contributed to the connecting link failure!

    I haven't used this dealer much, despite being on my second Taurus from the same dealer and having them a total of 13 years. Only have really used them for recalls and this one warranty job, but they have been very good. I do my own routine maintenance and have gone to independent shops for other service and repairs over the years, but I may reconsider and pay a little more for transmission fluid, coolant flushes, etc though this dealer, given the convenience.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    Can anyone help me? I have a 2000 Duratec DOHC SES and am about to have it serviced for the first time. It has done 64000 miles, it had done 54000 and was serviced at that mileage when I bought it from my local Ford dealer in Nov 02.

    I can't find any way of checking the auto box fluid anywhere. Also, Ford say I should change the fluid about now. Is it sealed on this model with a high quality fluid?

    Also, they say the spark plugs should run to 100,000 miles. Can anyone confirm that realistically this works? Or should i get them changed.

    I do 80% highway mileage.

    Thanks in anticipation, still think these are underrated cars. Can't find anything that will give me the space, performance and comfort at the price.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I can't remember for sure, but I believe it is a dipstick that fits into an oversize tube that also acts as the fill hole. I must admit that I am remiss in checking mine so I can't confirm this without looking under the hood or in the manual. I do remember that the manual says to change transmission fluid every 30K miles, which I will be up for mine in a few months.

    As far as plugs, I am not near the mileage required for changing those, but based on my past experience with platinum plugs, they will likely go to 100K, but some people recommend changing them earlier as they claim that the plugs tend to freeze themselves into the head. This may just be an internet rumor. Unless you fear this and or have starting, running or mileage dropoff issues, I would let them go to near 100K.

    I fully agree with your last paragraph. Hard to beat the peformance/price combination-new or used.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I have 103,000 on my 2000 Taurus and I had the plugs replaced at about 101,000 miles. At the same time I had the plugs changed on our '96 Plymouth Grand Voyager (about 100k miles on that at the time). Work was done at a small independent shop. Charge for the Taurus was ~$150. Charge for the minivan was ~$350 (mostly due to the inaccessibility of the plugs). The Taurus seemed to run relatively fine up to 100k and the guys didn't mention anything about the plugs being tough to pull out - though I have heard that before. I had the same plugs in my '97 Grand Prix and had them changed at 90k miles and there was no problem there either.

    Good luck,
    Rob
  • chastek3chastek3 Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 Sable LS is equipped with Auto Climate Control. On one occasion it stopped working and sput very hot air through the dash vents no matter what the setting. The next day it was fine. At my last oil change the dealer looked at it and advised one of the airflow doors within the heater core needs to be replaced.... $3 for the part, $600 for labor. The system is working fine now so I am delaying a repair. Has anybody else heard of this?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    For what it's worth, it's necessary to pretty much disassemble the whole dash to access the blend door. Not a nice job. Mitchell Labor Guide calls for 6 hours to replace it, so the $600.00 quote isn't too far out of line. My 93 Taurus has been doing the same thing for a while and I've been putting off doing it because it's such a pain in the patootie.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Depending upon your skill, this is something you may want to try yourself. They always use the flat rate manual, which is removing the dash in this case, but they often develop short cuts. And even when following the manual, the fix isn't that good. Example, to change the evaporator on some years, you remove the dash, remove the assembly holding the evaporator, heater, blower, etc. and then use a hot knife to cut the plastic housing. If they are not careful to replace the foam around the core, which may be deteriorated and doesn't come with the new core, then air will bypass it and have inadequate cooling. Also the directions for putting the cut plastic back into place seemed flimsy and it would leak or eventually fall away causing a major air leak and inadequate cooling. The fix would require pulling the dash again. Often the cutting can be done with a $5 pencil soldering iron. Further you want to verify it is actually the door that needs replacing. Maybe it is the actuator or the control head or connecting devices. Sometimes shops will bill with a shotgun approach. Figure the most expensive and its gravy if thats not what is wrong.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Are you easy? Definitely ripped on plugs and wires unless someone abused them. Are you the original owner? Maybe someone got ripped before you and they were replaced with inferior. Always ask for old parts, if they don't have an old one laying around, it might keep them honest even if you don't know what you are looking at. You may need transmission fluid change, but change the filter too. On the oil pan gasket, I noticed a problem with an 86 and 92. Although a high quality silicone gasket, it seems to bulge out on the front end of the motor(passenger side)and leak. On the 92, I didn't realize the problem (daughters driving and oil loss W 152K) but had a slight loss of coolant which I couldn't figure out where it was going. The bulged out gasket was acting like a funnel for a leaking lower radiator hose at the water pump. I noticed a orange-ish varnish like substance on the oil fill cap and inside but couldn't figure it either other than possibly the high milage. Then it blew when the daughter was going back to school in Atlanta. Fortunately it happened only 20 miles from home in Savannah. She lost 1/2 quart of oil in that distance. Replacing the gasket requires dropping the Y exhaust pipe and converter before removing the oil pan. Done in driveway with jack stands. Also tightened clamp at water pump and flushed engine before refill. Car now has 230K. If you can't do yourself, find another mechanic. Also did they use platinum plugs or did they replace with the standard plug, only good for 30K? Also anti-seize will stop corrosion and help with sticking plugs, did they use it?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Would someone please check their owners manual for a 97 Merc Sable GS wagon and post what fluid it calls for? The LX may be different than the GS since there are indications the AX4 rather than the AXODE may have been used. The AX4's are merely updated AXOD's from what I've been told. My owners manual is missing and if someone knows of one online please tell me where.
    Regarding earlier posts about fluid, I too was told that shops were using Dexron in all transmissions a few years back, and the Ford type F was actually better. The government was using F exclusively since it met MILSPEC. I've only found 2 honest shops in Savannah in 20 years. Checking shops for a minor sluggish shift and leak, 4 shops wanted around $1500 saying it needed a major rebuild. The last charged me $30 to replace three minor items. My son-in-law blew the front seal 40K later, abusing it by pulling 2.5K pounds through hilly country. The last leg of 500 miles he blew it at the top of a hill because he tried to beat traffic by pulling out at the foot of the hill with it floored to the top. Incidently the honest shop was bought by a chain. The other honest one was a TX parts shop that rebuild TX and sold them as rebuilds. He got ran out of business.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It doesn't seem to keep up or cool down as well as it should when its hot. Is this a problem with wagons compared to sedans? The 86 black sedan and 92 Taurus seem to handle it well. Or should I look for a problem? Ford finally got around to putting duct through the center console for heat, why haven't they done this for A/C yet? Are they trying to sell more roll-over toys?
    Has anyone tried to force cold air through the center console?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    There seems to be way too much noise compared to previously owned Fords and in particular a 95 Buick Regal. I've eliminated a lot of it by realigning the doors to seal better, but there still seems to be too much. Maybe from around the mirrors? If I move my head away from the side window it gets quieter.
    Also I would like to know if anyone has found a product to reglue the liner to the door. Once it is peeled away from the metal, the original glue lets loose after a short time. Tried weather stripping tape and it lets loose as well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It sounds like a problem encountered on an 84 Mercury. The top of the strut tower had a bearing which would fail and sounded like a lack of lubrication when turning the steering. Eventually it reached the point of chattering in steps through the turning as it would catch and overcome resistance. Any experience in this area with similar models. It sounds like an earlier posted problem cured with silicone but disclosed as a trade secret.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Someone posted here recently about having a brake light recall problem w/their Taurus several times. I only had it once about a year or more ago. Ironically, shortly after I read that post, I walked out to find my brake lights on and no one in the car! :-) Looks like the bug just hit me as well. It's a big pain in the _ _ _ because you have to take the fuse out to keep the battery from going dead (don't ask my why my battery dies just because the brake lights stay on, didn't think that could drain it). And if you remove the fuse then you can't get the car out of PARK. Off to the shop we go.

    - Rob
  • ttucker2ttucker2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '00 taraus with 26xxx miles on it that has a tranny fluid leak, small drop after driving a short distance larger drop after extended highway driving.

    third trip to ford garage this month. First they said it was a front seal and replaced it. Still leaked. Second thought a small "microscopic leak in bell housing. Then they decided that wasn't it. and reassembled it. Still leaks and its back in the shop for the third try.

    Any suggestions for what is really wrong?

    Tom
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    I note than in my 2000 SES Duratec handbook, it says the PCV should be changed at 100,000 miles. Can anyone confirm that it will last that long? Mine has done 64,000 miles and is running great. I thought about taking the PCV off and checking it, but it is a right b**!**d to get to!It's inside an oil seperator apparently.

    Thanks to those who responded about long life spark plugs, i checked mine and they seem in really good shape.Also, i opened my eyes at last, and found the auto trams dip stick. Why the hell is that so in-accessible?

    Thanks again.

    Ian
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Ok guys, I need your help. My local Ford dealer fixed my brake light problem (they were constantly staying on) by replacing the "stop lamp switch" that was "stuck on". When they told me the charge would be $104.25 I told them I had this done once before by an out-of-state Ford dealer when I was traveling a few years ago. They said they had no record of it in Ford's dealer system - Oasis? - and, even if that was the case there is a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty on repair work and I was well beyond that.

    I didn't argue w/them because I realized it would do no good. And for whatever reason I can't find the paperwork for when that repair was done, and I certainly can't remember the Ford dealer that did the work (I used to travel a lot). So...
    1) How do I find out who did the work and when?
    2) Is that right that Ford will stick to their guns on a 12 month/12,000 repair - even if it's recall related?
    3) Where do I go to complain? I don't have time to sit on the phone with CSR's but I would like to write someone w/the details.

    Thanks,
    Rob
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    The work performed was entered into a computer system that is hooked up to a data base retrievable (I would think) by Ford headquarters.
    Is it in Dearborn Michigan?

    I'd contact Ford Motor Co. with as many details as I can provide so they can retrieve the info you need. Tell them approximate dates of the service, dealer location (if you remember) and the obvious would be your car's VIN #, etc.

    I wouldn't be too concerned about Ford's negative reaction to your claim. But if you don't try, you'll never know.

    Good luck!
  • liangtaoliangtao Member Posts: 3
    I bought this car weeks ago. Pretty much like it. But some problems make me feel sorry for it, like I did not treat it well. Hope you guys could give me some ideas before I go to another garage. Last time I spend $20 for checking it, but get answer "nothing wrong". Thanks!
    The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for quite long time. But I did not feel anything wrong with the engine or transmission. The previous owner had it checked in some garage and was told it's nothing. Then last week I had it checked in another garage. The mechanic told me the code was "P0304", and he said it was something about Cam sensor, he checked the sensor and nothing was wrong. I don't trust his explanation about the code. I found this code means misfire in the No.4 cylinder in some OBDII website. I am not sure if this is right, because I think misfire would usually cause bad gas mileage or lack of power. I got 27mpg on highway, and did not feel lack of power any time. Engine idle speed is about 700rpm and stable. A bit confused.
    Another problem is the steering noise. Within the car, it can barely be heard. But outside I feel terrible to hear this squeak noise near the wheel. The mechanic said it was the tie rod, but it was not too bad, and I can keep it for a while before changing it. I wonder if it is helpful to add grease to lub the connector? (Don't know if this car need grease for those joints)
    Should I go to another garage and have it checked again? Is there a easy way to check the reason for misfire?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Was it DTC P0304 or P0340? The most common camshaft sensor code is P0340 from a dinked sensor.

    P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

    P0340 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    P0341 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
    P0342 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
    P0343 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
    P0344 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

    Re the front end noise, if it's a creaking noise when the wheel's turned it probably has a bad outer tie rod end. They're not greasable, replace only and have toe in reset afterwards.
  • wsd_studioswsd_studios Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I am currently looking at buying a used 98 Taurus with under 100,000 miles on it. Has anyone had many problems with this car? Anything major (like the tranny) usually go out after 100,000 miles? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I've had a '96 (75k miles) and currently own a 2000 Taurus (104k miles and still running) and never really had any major problems. There are some "quirky" things that you'll find on this board if you run through the history of posts. Some of these happened to me, such as: brake light switch malfunctioning, front end suspension problems, defective muffler brace. On a scale of 1-5, with one being minor, I'd rate these all a "1". I've never had any 2-5 problems with either one of my Tauruses (or Tauri?). I do know a guy that owned a '97 Taurus SHO and his tranny bombed out on him at about 55k. He was pretty anal about his car so I don't think it's anything he did. He had an extended warranty so he was covered but my guess is you could make enough noise to get at least part of that cost covered by Ford. I personally would never buy an extended warranty on a Taurus.

    Generally speaking I don't think you can go wrong. I WILL say though, that if you're willing to consider another American car (foreign resales in this category just aren't worth the added $ in my opinion) take a hard look at the Grand Prix. The G.P. is a little sportier, rides lower, isn't as easy to get in/out of but to me it was a GREAT car for 100k miles. My Taurus too has been very reliable and low maintenance, but I used to really ENJOY driving that G.P. If I ever get another four door sedan I may upgrade to a G.P. GT...even though Pontiac made them look awfully similar to the Grand Am (foolish mistake in my mind). Good luck.

    - Rob
  • wsd_studioswsd_studios Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, the car I am looking at right now has 91,000 miles on it, and it is selling unusually low (2900) at a dealer, so I have some hesitency about the mechanices of it. I looked at some Pontiacs, and have had several friends who owned them (Grand Am). Everyone one of them has spent thousands in cooling repairs, and one had to have the whole engine replaced (largely his problem since he didn't take care of a small problem soon enough). Thanks for your help, I just hope you haven't had what your name is, a stroke 'o luck, when it comes to your cars. ;)
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I am trying to find the size of tamper proof torx screw on MAF sensor.
    Alcan, as far as I remember you have an SHO. Do you think, screw size is the same with 2000 SES. I need to clean the MAF sensor.
    I have some annoying pinging. It doesn't happen all the time. Usually running against hills, accelarating etc and summer times. If I use FI cleaner, it goes away.
    I will look into MAF before I get FInjectors cleaned.
    Any input....
    I've got the PCM reprogrammed per TSB. Didn't help.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Interesting about the cooling problems w/Pontiac. Never heard of that. Just goes to show that virtually all car makes have issues at some point. I will tell you that I'm surrounded by engineers in my neighborhood (I live outside Detroit in "car" country; and more specifically "Ford" country) and they ALL - and I mean ALL - rave about GM's 3.8 liter engine. That's the one you find in many Buicks, GM's and Pontiacs. It was a hell of an engine in my Grand Prix. But maybe I did get lucky...you never know.

    If a DEALER is selling this vehicle for $2900 I'd be sure and check out the private used car market. My experience with used car dealers is that they mark the cars up anywhere from 50-100%. I'm not knocking that, everyone deserves to make a buck in this country, but you should be able to find some salesman who racked up a quick 100k miles and is willing to sell the car for a song. I truly don't know what used car prices should be but, now that I think about it, $2900 sounds awfully cheap - for any car. Then again the Taurus doesn't really hold value well. You might want to try calling a few Ford dealers (or used car dealers) and tell them you have a '98 w/91k miles and see what THEY'LL give you for it. That will give you an idea of what this dealer has in it. Odds are a new car dealer wouldn't touch it but a used one would.

    Good luck,
    Rob
  • sisterdearsisterdear Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Taurus SE sedan with 125K. For the past three yrs, have had an intermittent problem, only occurring on hot, humid days. After driving around for an hour or more, when decelerating, braking,car will die. Turns right back on, dies. If let to sit hour or so, will then drive fine. This has happened once or twice every summer, only on hot sticky days. Neither garage nor dealer, both of who kept car for several days, could find the problem. On my own, have replaced the idle air bypass valve, and the TPS sensor; yet still have the problem;stranded me most recently a week ago. The engine is not overheating. When it happens, it feels as if gas is not getting to the engine. Mechanic does not think its the fuel pump. Any suggestions for what else to check? Am looking for another vehicle at this point! Dont want to plan my life around what the temp is!!
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I would suspect a fuel pressure problem, but I wouldn't bank on it yet. There is an order to diagnosing dirveability problems like this that will help eliminate a lot of shotgunning and guesswork. First of all, read the codes stored in the CPU. You're in luck, because your 95 operates on the OBD I diagnostic system which doesn't require the OBD II scan tool, so you can do it yourself. Even if the MIL light isn't on, there still may be intermittent codes stored. Then do a careful visual inspection of the engine bay or trouble areas which may have shown up in the CPU check. Look for loose wires, kinked or melted vac hoses, etc. If you haven't found the problem, I would have a full fuel pressure test performed on the vehicle (test while idling, cruising, and accelerating, then a leakdown test after shutoff). If you do have a fuel pressure problem, a new fuel pump will be in order, BUT you need to have the pressure test performed again after the replacement to make sure that there wasn't a problem with another part of the fuel system-like the pressure regulator-that caused the pump to fail. One thing else to check before you do any of this: since you mentioned that the car stalls while braking, check all the vacuum hoses supplying the brake booster on the firewall-a vaccum leak in that area could cause some idle problems. And I'm assuming you do regular maintenance like spark plugs and wires? This will probably be one of those problems that requires a $100 part and $200 worth of diagnostic time. Good luck, keep us updated.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    snowman:

    I had to remove the MAF sensor on my wife's '92 3.8L once, and it has the same type of fastener (don't recall the size). I located a small set of hex bits which did the job nicely and only cost a few bucks (haven't used 'em since, tho). They look like torx bits but with a hole in the center, and I think the packaging referred to the corresponding fasteners as "safety star". IIRC, they were available at the local Sears hardware store.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I just called my local Ford Dealer to ask them about the MAF sensor screw sizes. They told me MAF sensor doesn't come out, I have to have entire plastic unit if I want to get it replaced.

    This sounds very odd. There are 4 screws on it. Or either dumb service adviser lady doesn't know what she talks about.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    It came out of my Taurus just fine, once I located the bits needed to remove the screws. Perhaps she meant that to replace it you need to purchase the whole assembly.
  • 1992taurus1992taurus Member Posts: 4
    hi my taurus has the 3.8l engine and i bought the car about a month and a half ago and it has 154,000 miles on it the check engine light comes on and then goes away after a long time but i havent noticed any problems with the car while im driving it i dont want to have a dealership charge me for telling me whats wrong with it i was wondering if anyone could help
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Retrieve the stored trouble code(s) as outlined here and post them. My first guess would be an EGR flow code relating to the PFE sensor:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Probably not. Bite the bullet and pay a shop to retrieve the codes, otherwise we're playing guessing games.
  • 1992taurus1992taurus Member Posts: 4
    hey my check engine light is off now but my car runs very hot. The guage is maxed out at times as soon as i noticed this i drove it home (about 15 miles) and now im not gonna drive it till i get this fixed ive been told my thermostat could be stuck does anyone know where this is located in the 1992 taurus lx wagon with the 3.8l engine thanks
  • liangtaoliangtao Member Posts: 3
    Hi, does anybody know the brand of Taurus Engine control computer? I didn't find the computer. But I saw a lot of Bosch product under the hood.
    Thanks.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Since last night my Merc. Sable's steering wheel began to make an intermittent loud whining like sound every time the wheel is turned to either side. I can not ascertain that the noise described above is from the steering wheel or it gets transmitted through it from another part or component.

    Has anyone experienced this problem in their Sable or Taurus car?? I'd like to have an idea before I go to the shop and get eaten up alive. My car is out of the bumper to bumper warranty.

    I'll appreciate any assistance or advise you guys can offer.
  • johnwngjohnwng Member Posts: 24
    Tried to spray some WD40 on the stearing joint at the bottom (next to the brake pedal) and see if the noise goes away. I know it worked for someone on this board.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Have you checked to see if your power steering fluid reservoir is up to full?

    Otherwise, you may have a squealing serpentine belt which is due for replacement-it may chirp only when the power steering pump gets loaded when you make turns, or possibly the belt tensioner is malfunctioning. These are just guesses, however.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Thank you guys for the advice. Now I have some idea and feel empowered if you will.

    I'll follow your suggestions and write back.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Daniel, do two things:

    1) go to "search this discussion" and type in STEERING NOISE (or some combination thereof) and you'll find several posts relating to this topic.

    2) several of us have had the same problem (mine is a 2000 Taurus w/104k miles). I had a mechanic shoot some silicone in between the wheel and the column. That seemed to help a little but the noise is not entirely gone - and you'll find it gets worse in winter. I don't know what the entire solution is unfortunately but you're not alone and I don't think it's real harmful...at least not yet.

    - Rob
  • torodavetorodave Member Posts: 27
    I've been away from the site for a few months, so don't know if anyone else has reported this, but the front rotors on my '02 SEL wagon warped at about 15,000 miles and had to be replaced. Dealer says this is common. I can't believe it. At that rate I'll be replacing them every 15 months at a cost of $400cdn. I phoned Ford, but got nowhere. Anyone know anything about this? My last car went 50,000 miles on the original set. I see a lot of Taurus taxis around, they must have to change them every 3 months! I do more highway than city driving, and don't drive it hard, no towing, etc. I told the dealer that the only way I could think they'd warp that soon was if they torqued the lug nuts improperly, which they, of course, strongly denied.

    UPDATE: Just noticed the search function and found a bunch of others with same problem. Seems like aftermarket rotors are the way to go. Thanks everyone. I hope Ford takes notice. Anyone ever get Ford to cover any of the costs on this????
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    On my 2000 SES Duractec, my warning lights for the ABS and traction control remain on. I checked the fuse and this is fine. Two things that have happened over the last 2 days:
    1/ I had the anti-freeze and a top radiator hose changed.
    2/ I went over a severe typical Kansas City pothole which made a horrendous noise. I checked the underside of the car and saw dripping fluid, but it looked to be coming from the air conditoner discharge which appears to be working fine by the way.

    I'm taking the car in to my garage on Monday 14th, but wondered if anyone had any ideas?

    Thanks in anticipation.

    Ian
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Fluid leak could be anything, your mechanic will probably track that down. ABS+Traction lights are probably due to a broken wheel speed sensor or ripped signal wire. Let your mechanic know which wheel took the brunt of the pothole so he'll have a head start on where to look. Good luck, keep us posted.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Today I picked up my station wagon from the shop. I had taken it to my mechanic primarily (but no only) for the whining sound that came from or was transmitted through the steering wheel. I didn't go to the the dealer because the basic bumper to bumper warranty expired and didn't want to be charged their rates.

    All steering components and parts were checked and no defects or worn parts were found. Rack and pinion steering was lubricated and I was told that this should take care of the problem. It lessened or calmed the whining sound but didn't make it disappear completely.
    Car was fully serviced as well as it was due for scheduled maintenance.

    It would appear that I might just have to get used to this noise and learn to live with it while I continue to do research to find a cure.

    Thank you very much to johnwng, badgerfan and strokeoluck for their valuable advise!
  • TMURFTMURF Member Posts: 10
    To danielj6 - The squeak coming from the steering wheel is most likely coming from the column as it passes thru the firewall. My '02 Taurus & '98 ZX2 had the same problem. Just slathered the plastic parts with grease. Problem goes away but will eventually come back after several months.
  • 10years10years Member Posts: 48
    I have a 98 Taurus SE that recently was diagnosed at a trasmission place as needing a rebuild. The fluid was brown and some slight metal shavings at the bottom of the pan. They say it will cost between $1500 to $2500. The car has 81K miles and last had a transmission service at 60K. Also a recent oil change after some 4K miles the mechanic mentioned it was about a quart low, but no evidence of burning. Any thoughts or adive would be much appreciated. In advance, Thank You.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    So it appears that a lot of Taurus/Sable owners have, at one time or another, experienced the same problem. I wander whether anyone discussed it with Ford HQ or file a complain with the NHTSA. Maybe Ford would react and find a fix? Just a thought.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    My situation is similar to 10years, but worse: my 97 Taurus GL (3.0 liter), with 126,000 miles, faces expensive repairs, and I'm wondering whether to spend this possibly $2K or $3k, or just move on to another car.
    Note: we've already replaced the transmission (at 100K); and fairly recently replaced the timing chain, front brake pads and rotors, spark plugs, PCV, and water pump. Anyway, a test yesterday found combustion gasses in the coolant, so we're looking at bad head gasket-- $1000 to $2000 depending on which parts. In addition, the AC leaks, the heater core may need replacing, the motor mount may need replacing, and the bottom edges of all the doors are starting to rust (and touch-up paint won't help for long--they're rusting from the inside out).

    So, my dilemma: put another $2K-$3K into this car and hope that will take care of it for a long time, or get rid of it and put the money into a better car? Cheaper to keep it, or would I be pouring money into a rat hole?
    Thanks
  • packer31packer31 Member Posts: 3
    pouring money into a rat hole
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Other than brown fluid and shavings, what are your symptoms of transmission trouble? How recently have you had your fluid and filter changed? I wouldn't spend $2K unless I knew I absolutely had to.
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