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Comments
Beware, it has been my personal experience that a lot of aftermarket filters are not as good as the OEM. It seems to be a matter of selling cheap. Fram, one that I thought of as being low quality unless it actually made the OEM as well by subcontract, now seems to surpass many standard aftermarket. I looked at a Fram and STP air for a 95 Regal the other day and the Fram had at least 50% more filter paper.
Example, a 97 we just got. Oil changes and transmission fluid changes not done because of being cheap (only plausible explanation for dirtiness). Also coolant percent so long it allowed major corrosion. Add in the grease on the frame by a CV boot but the boot appears in good condition. Turns out it must have been a noisy joint and some mechanic pumped it full of grease other than the original using a needle, consequently a tiny pin hole spitting out excess grease and a temporarily quieted joint. Also I had questions about the A/C cooling enough. Turns out it was probably overcharged, as it is cooling better, because I found oil with dye coming from a factory crimp. This means they knew about the leak and chose not to fix it because this is a high priced hose assembly. Also a speaker not working, steering groan that showed up after a few days and seems to be coming from the upper strut bearings, some busted boots on suspension parts, and an exhaust leak that didn't show up because the engine only has it when thoroughly cooled (Meineke says $900 to replace rear manifold). All of this on the 97 is why I think the offer on the 92 is way to low. Please e-mail me with what you'd want for yours that is in good condition at E_Net_Rider@hotmail.com
Thank You
Thanks Again
Good luck,
Rob
Neglected cooling, including externally plugged radiator will lead to all types of problems, including problems with the A/C because the head pressures rise and lead to premature failure of the pump. Corrosion internally will damage the entire system because you will have inefficient heat transfer. If there is enough of it circulating, some pump designs will get a build up on the impeller and reduce flow compounding the problem. Just looked at your post again and I have to conclude that the cooling system in your car was seriously neglected for a lengthy period of time. The tranny, A/C, heater core, gases in coolant due to blown gasket or maybe even a cracked head, timing chain because of inadequate oil maintenance or maybe the oil wearing out prematurely because of poor cooling. Let this be a lessen learned and always check behind the mechanic. Many including the Ford shops will replace coolant with water during repairs. Make sure you change coolant at recommended intervals, makers of the green stuff now recommend annually. I've had none of the heat related problems you seem to have with a '86 160K or the 92 230K we just lost due to accident. I've used the long life orange coolant since available, after a quick flush, and went one step farther as a precaution. Its a coolant additive for diesels to stop cavitation and improve thermal transfer. The extra $10 dollars it costs for it and the orange over the green saves me 4, now 5 annual changes. That's big dollars too.
Ready for the bone yard? More likely the crusher, but then you have to be the judge of your area. I'm in Savannah GA where heat is a problem.
I do most of the work on my cars at home, but need to get a state inspection every year during which the inspecting mechanic pulls the wheels to do a visual brake inspection. They rarely comply when I request that the lugs be torqued properly, even when I tell them what the specification is. I've been to many different shops for these inspections, and most of them like to zip the lugs on with an air wrench to save time, even when I tell them not to do it. Sometimes the lugs are tightened down so much I need a big breaker bar to crack them loose when I get home!
- Rob
I don't know the deviation allowed for torque wrenches, and it probably varies by the specific wrench, but I'll bet it is far less than a range of 80-100. Also wrenches can be recalibrated routinely to ensure accuracy.
A point of greater importance in torquing wheel nuts is probably not the accuracy of the value, but that they are all equal on the same wheel and kept close to the same value at all times. I keep the threads lubricated to eliminate error and frequently check behind. Setting my wrench to the specified value I try to back off the nuts. I've found some back off at roughly thirty and some at 100 using the flex-needle type all on the same wheel. Usually I back off and re-torque noting the position of the wrench, which usually indicates whether an attempt was made to do the job right. Hope I haven't confused.
Brakes are extremely important on a vehicle. Only one thing more important as I see it, tires have to give good control under predominant conditions.
Stroke-, you almost gave me one with your story. Did you mean $20K?
BTW, sorry e_net_rider but I just traded-in my wife's '92 Taurus. Dealer only gave me $500, but it had some obvious problems, and I don't really have the time or inclination to let it rot in my driveway while people try to haggle me down on the price (there are plenty of others in better shape for sale in the area). It was a lot easier just dropping it off on the dealer's lot and washing my hands of it. I felt it was getting ready for a major mechanical failure here soon anyway. It has had several since we've owned it, and the last three have occurred during the last 9 months.
In my area, '92's listed by private sellers are priced around $1K for the high miles not so clean variety, to around $3K for the old lady kept it in the garage and only drove it to the store variety. These cars are a dime-a-dozen, so they don't seem to go for much even in good condition. Good if you're buying, bad if you're selling. Good luck...
Notice
A torque wrench must be used to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to specification. Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.
Important
Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in order to avoid excessive runout of the tire and wheel assembly.
FYI,
Rob
I've done a couple. Click my bio.
The factory struts feel like they are nearly worn out at 27,000 miles.
What are typical costs for parts and installation?
What seems fascinating to me is not is prejudicial comment, but the fact that Honda Accords have lots of mechanical problems. This is something that Consumer Reports missed big time didn't it? And this is not the only case I read about Hondas from different years having mechanical problems. What's going on with the venerable Accord?
Hey! Taurus/Sable anyone?? )))
Is this a common problem with the Taurus? I have owned Hondas and Toyotas for the last 20 years and have never had an axle go bad before 100k miles.
While I was in grease, I pulled out MAF sensor to clean up. It was spotless but I sprayed it whith electronic part cleaner spray anyway. My car is pinging especially summer time. I realized that if AC is on, engine doesn't ping though. Since MAF was clean, my next step will be fuel injector cleaning (professionally).
Alcan, do you think I am on the correct track for pinging issue, like getting FI cleaned?
first trip of the day, the transmission winds out to about 20 mph before it shifts into 2nd gear. Sometimes it won't even catch and acts as if it is in neutral. The weird thing is that if you stop the car and start out again, it shifts at the normal speed (10-15mph)and works fine everytime after that. The colder the weather, the longer it takes to shift into 2nd gear, but it will do this even at summer temperatures. I have had the transmission flushed and new fluid put in, also a can of transX has been added. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so, what do I need to do to fix this problem?
Thanks!
It is an absolute discrace Ford do not fit discs all around in this day and age. To fit them on the wagon and not the sedan is madness. Remember to use the stick shift to help braking where you need to, such as coming to a bend where the last thing you need is to apply the brakes. Compression braking is stil a good idea. This is why rotors wear out so fast as there is so much pressure on an inadequate system.Just bring the shift stick down to the middle "D" or even "1". It is the correct way to drive an auto anyway as you retain greater control over the car's traction when the situation demands.
I Still love the car though. Great value, space, pace (Duratec) and comfort and 27 mpg on a run and 24 around town. not bad for a car weighing in at 3300 lbs. The only other thing I feel is poor is the headlamps on main-beam/high-beam. The spread of light is dire, does anyone else notice this?
I would do it only if the road was covered by snow and/or ice.
Constantly downshifting and upshifthing on auto tranny is not smart thing for any car at all unless the car is auoto stick.
I appreciate your comments, but you will always get better mileage if you are in the correct gear at the right time. Most people drive autos in the "overdrive" setting around town which means you are inadvertently "feathering" the gas pedal and wasting fuel and braking in an overdrive gear puts a lot of pressure on the brakes, brake fluid and rotors. With the Duratec being a 4 valver, there is little low rev torque as I'm sure you know, so being in the lower ratio is more economical. Also, if approaching an incline, drop the selector from overdrive "D" to the lower "D" without moving your right foot and the car maintains it speed.
Also regarding your last point, when you think it about it, by leaving the car in the middle "D" avoids changing up and down doesn't it. Which proves my point!! I take your point about heating the transmission, but with today's oil, it is nothing like as bad as it once was and you save a lot more on your brakes and rotors. It is also safer to use compression braking which is witnessed by the idiots I see that constantly brake on sharp bends.
My gas mileage figure is not unusual if you read these pages regularly. Driving technique helps and of course, where you live. Kansas City (my home) is pretty open without much traffic, so stop and start is not common here. But you really should get around 27 mpg on a run with this engine.
My main gripes with the Taurus are the brake effort needed, the noise around the doors (wind) which they have apparantly improved for the 03 model, and the poor headlamps/headlights on high or main beam. otherwise it is plusses all the way.
Regards
Ian
It is odd they wore out so quick. Have you changed tires? Did Ford put less than optimum tires on your vehicle because of a tire shortage? Have you maitained proper inflation? If you've blown a strut you should have seen obvious signs of leaking before it pumped dry. Do you live in chuck hole city?
If they turned your drums and rotors, the drums will require a larger arc on the shoe and will wear rapidly until they are fully seated. They will also wear out quicker. Some shops will arc the shoe to the inside of the newly turned drum. I've also seen where the arc on new shoes wouldn't match new drums. (Both were aftermarket products) Unless that condition existed the last time you had new brakes or in the distant past, I would suspect a bad brake job. The only other thing would be if they replaced the master cylinder or the power unit. They didn't install or adjust it correctly if that is the case.
Further, engine braking or compression if you choose to call it that is only a good idea under certain circumstances. Depending upon the specific model, the over-run clutches might only be disengaged in gear 2 or 1. This puts a strain on the engine and tranny and is only recommended for additional braking on steep declines or with heavy loads. The over-run clutches allow the engine to return to idle and coasting takes place to improve gas milage!!! Braking should never be applied during a turn. If you must, that means you've overestimated the road, and you need to adjust your driving habits.
You are also inhibiting control of the vehicle. If you slide a tire, you may prevent the ABS from regaining control since it expects the tranny to be free wheeling. Even with out ABS, taking your foot off the brake, you may not be able to regain control. And under slippery conditions it alone may cause you to loose control and not be able to regain it.
Most of the heat is generated by the torque converter because it is constantly slipping except during lock-up. Even with that, most are designed so the moment you start decel the valve controlling that opens. Too, with the torque converter only locking above say 50MPH and not locking in gear 1 or 2, you are again generating excess heat. Which is cheaper? A tranny rebuild or brakes?
WHAT?? Are you driving with your foot on the brake? Anytime the accelerator would be less than maintaining speed, in the upper gears it will free wheel.
With today's electronic trannys, they are able to sense the pressure created by the torque load and determine the optimum shift points, both for engine stress and maximum MPG.