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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • 1992taurus1992taurus Member Posts: 4
    Hey does any one know if a K&N filter will have a noticeable impact on the performance of my 92 lx with the 3.8l engine right now it just has a plain old paper filter
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Which filter? What are you trying to accomplish?
    Beware, it has been my personal experience that a lot of aftermarket filters are not as good as the OEM. It seems to be a matter of selling cheap. Fram, one that I thought of as being low quality unless it actually made the OEM as well by subcontract, now seems to surpass many standard aftermarket. I looked at a Fram and STP air for a 95 Regal the other day and the Fram had at least 50% more filter paper.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I'm would like to know how much it would take to get you to part with an early 90's Taurus or Sable and I would like to know the condition of the vehicle. We lost one and am being forced to settle for the price of an unknown condition car. That is one someone probably dumped it because of problems and these type of things are not always evident when you buy from a lot. That is why they sell with no warranty on anything older. And can get away with unscrupulous practices.
      Example, a 97 we just got. Oil changes and transmission fluid changes not done because of being cheap (only plausible explanation for dirtiness). Also coolant percent so long it allowed major corrosion. Add in the grease on the frame by a CV boot but the boot appears in good condition. Turns out it must have been a noisy joint and some mechanic pumped it full of grease other than the original using a needle, consequently a tiny pin hole spitting out excess grease and a temporarily quieted joint. Also I had questions about the A/C cooling enough. Turns out it was probably overcharged, as it is cooling better, because I found oil with dye coming from a factory crimp. This means they knew about the leak and chose not to fix it because this is a high priced hose assembly. Also a speaker not working, steering groan that showed up after a few days and seems to be coming from the upper strut bearings, some busted boots on suspension parts, and an exhaust leak that didn't show up because the engine only has it when thoroughly cooled (Meineke says $900 to replace rear manifold). All of this on the 97 is why I think the offer on the 92 is way to low. Please e-mail me with what you'd want for yours that is in good condition at E_Net_Rider@hotmail.com
    Thank You
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Just remembered a couple of more things. I discovered the spark plugs had been replaced with elcheapo non-platinum and someone had sabatoged the wiring to one of the rear speakers. It was such a clean cut I can not figure out what it was cut with (I was an aircraft electronics/electrian) but am certain someone was trying to get a second job out of it. Also the cabin air filter had never been changed as it wasn't only clogged full, it had a 1/2 of dirt caked onto it. So if you are looking to buy these are somethings you might check. I mainly interested in what you will take for a maintained Taurus or Sable in the early 90's
    Thanks Again
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    To brozhnik: I concur, sounds like a rat hole. I just passed a 2000 Taurus SEL w/60k miles on sale for $8k. By the time you pump more money into yours you'd be half way to paying off a newer one w/less miles. It's too bad, never heard of one w/that many problems.

    Good luck,
    Rob
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Have you had this car since new? or at what age did you acquire? Much of your problem sounds like a neglected cooling system. Maybe even the trans problem. I rebuilt an 86 AXOD just past 100K, it snapped the low gear band. It cracked right through the spot weld points, obviously a weak point and heard this to be a problem. Also one of the accumulator springs was bad, other than that little wear existed so it was just a basic rebuild. Probably didn't cost me $150 in parts. But did do all of the updates and changes recommended by ATSG, a major player in the rebuild industry. Also added the additive recommended by them and had no more trouble out of it.
    Neglected cooling, including externally plugged radiator will lead to all types of problems, including problems with the A/C because the head pressures rise and lead to premature failure of the pump. Corrosion internally will damage the entire system because you will have inefficient heat transfer. If there is enough of it circulating, some pump designs will get a build up on the impeller and reduce flow compounding the problem. Just looked at your post again and I have to conclude that the cooling system in your car was seriously neglected for a lengthy period of time. The tranny, A/C, heater core, gases in coolant due to blown gasket or maybe even a cracked head, timing chain because of inadequate oil maintenance or maybe the oil wearing out prematurely because of poor cooling. Let this be a lessen learned and always check behind the mechanic. Many including the Ford shops will replace coolant with water during repairs. Make sure you change coolant at recommended intervals, makers of the green stuff now recommend annually. I've had none of the heat related problems you seem to have with a '86 160K or the 92 230K we just lost due to accident. I've used the long life orange coolant since available, after a quick flush, and went one step farther as a precaution. Its a coolant additive for diesels to stop cavitation and improve thermal transfer. The extra $10 dollars it costs for it and the orange over the green saves me 4, now 5 annual changes. That's big dollars too.
    Ready for the bone yard? More likely the crusher, but then you have to be the judge of your area. I'm in Savannah GA where heat is a problem.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Still wondering what someone is willing to take to part with their's?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    This is a heads up. I know I've fought with mechanics in this area for many years because of a practice that ensured you'd be in for a brake job after simply having tires rotated. You still have to watch them although the word is getting around. If you don't torque the wheel nuts properly, it will induce warpage to the rotors and drums causing the car to shake when the brake is applied. Most often this isn't immediate and may only show up after a few weeks as the uneven pressure from an improper torque spreads across the metal, expedited by the heating and cooling of the brake parts. As a result of the time, most people don't realize it was due to the mechanic removing and reinstalling a wheel earlier. To avoid this extra maintenance, always specify hand torque with "torque wrench" or use a torque stick, a device that looks like a socket extension and is color coded to your needs. If you still have problems, then you need to buy your own torque wrench and check behind the mechanic anytime a wheel is removed. I've found that Sears ignores the request about 50% of the time during tire rotations.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    ISO certified shops are not permitted to use torque sticks due to their inaccuracy.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I agree completely with e_net_rider. It would be hard to prove, but I'm reasonably sure I've been the victim of over-torqued lug nuts on a few occasions. Many shops don't want to take the extra time to lookup torque specs on the cars they're servicing, or use the tools necessary to tighten the fasteners properly. It's very hard to get them to do so, even by asking repeatedly.

    I do most of the work on my cars at home, but need to get a state inspection every year during which the inspecting mechanic pulls the wheels to do a visual brake inspection. They rarely comply when I request that the lugs be torqued properly, even when I tell them what the specification is. I've been to many different shops for these inspections, and most of them like to zip the lugs on with an air wrench to save time, even when I tell them not to do it. Sometimes the lugs are tightened down so much I need a big breaker bar to crack them loose when I get home!
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I sold my '90 Taurus L 3.0 Vulcan to a private party for $2K even, three years ago. My guess is you might find a second generation Taurus now for about that, however what shape a given 10 year old car will be in could vary wildly. Mine was at 98K miles and in good shape except the rust was beginning to show especially on the bottom door seams. First generation Tauri were not the greatest for corrosion resistance in the snow/salted streets belt.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I've been overworked e-net-rider so I must admit I had no clue what you were asking for. I traded a '96 Taurus in some time ago but have long since forgotten what I got for it (not that it matters, there are so many games played w/trade-ins). If it helps you at all I purchased a '97 Grand Prix new in Spring of '97; drove it for two years and put 100,000 miles on it then got $2k for it. FYI.

    - Rob
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    What's the difference between a "torque stick" and a torque wrench? And why are they considered inaccurrate?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for the heads up alcan on the ISO spec. And slickdog, you don't just agree with me. After the several years of wrangling, I saw a piece on TV by I think the same people doing the radio talk show. Motor Week maybe. Anyway they confirmed everything I said earlier and at that time approved of the torque stick. Now when they give me lip as if I don't know what I'm talking about, I quote the show. The torque wrench is a calibrated instrument that will break free at the figure you dial in. Torque sticks, as I pointed out earlier look like a socket extension. Each different color, say blue may be for a range of 80-100ftlbs. It is engineered so when the metal is molded it has a certain amount of rotational flex when it reaches that 80-100 range. It then uses the mechanism built into the impact wrench which is like a ratchet working back and forth one tooth or click at a time. You can try this to make it clear. Use your ratchet and a very long extension on a nut with a high torque. As you tighten you will see the extension flex. Moving a small increment such as 10 degrees the nut doesn't tighten and backing up 10 degrees to take another go at it results in the flex springing back to keep the ratchet from getting a new tooth. Inaccuracies occur because of the wide range each stick covers and the impact wrench themselves as to how many degrees it rotates with each attempt.
    I don't know the deviation allowed for torque wrenches, and it probably varies by the specific wrench, but I'll bet it is far less than a range of 80-100. Also wrenches can be recalibrated routinely to ensure accuracy.
    A point of greater importance in torquing wheel nuts is probably not the accuracy of the value, but that they are all equal on the same wheel and kept close to the same value at all times. I keep the threads lubricated to eliminate error and frequently check behind. Setting my wrench to the specified value I try to back off the nuts. I've found some back off at roughly thirty and some at 100 using the flex-needle type all on the same wheel. Usually I back off and re-torque noting the position of the wrench, which usually indicates whether an attempt was made to do the job right. Hope I haven't confused.
    Brakes are extremely important on a vehicle. Only one thing more important as I see it, tires have to give good control under predominant conditions.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It sounds like both of you are in snow country, so that might devalue a car quickly. The extreme temperature range, roads are very rough on the suspension, extreme warm up cycles, and salt, all compound the situation. I've been checking local lots and have found some 90-95's. Prices range from about $2100 to $4395. As pointed out, the condition probably is the most important factor on a car that old, not whether is is a couple of years older or newer. I know salt baths are rough but it also seems to vary by where the car was built and the policies in place at that time. The 86 built in Chicago and records indicate it stayed there at least two years had zero rust when it left us after 14 years. The 92 has one tiny surface rust spot where they seemed to have a problem with the black paint peeling from the trim behind the front side window. Living close to the ocean, less than 10 miles and surrounded by salt marshes there is frequently a lot of salt in the air. Bare aluminum manifolds show this, yet only a few models of any car show high levels of corrosion these days.
    Stroke-, you almost gave me one with your story. Did you mean $20K?
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Yeah, I've heard those torque sticks can be inaccurate. I like to use a "breakaway" torque wrench. It was expensive, but has saved me lots of time and trouble. I do engine work myself too, so it's invaluable for getting the various nuts and bolts tightened down to specs.

    BTW, sorry e_net_rider but I just traded-in my wife's '92 Taurus. Dealer only gave me $500, but it had some obvious problems, and I don't really have the time or inclination to let it rot in my driveway while people try to haggle me down on the price (there are plenty of others in better shape for sale in the area). It was a lot easier just dropping it off on the dealer's lot and washing my hands of it. I felt it was getting ready for a major mechanical failure here soon anyway. It has had several since we've owned it, and the last three have occurred during the last 9 months.

    In my area, '92's listed by private sellers are priced around $1K for the high miles not so clean variety, to around $3K for the old lady kept it in the garage and only drove it to the store variety. These cars are a dime-a-dozen, so they don't seem to go for much even in good condition. Good if you're buying, bad if you're selling. Good luck...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    From the 2004 Cavalier factory manual:

    Notice
    A torque wrench must be used to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to specification. Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.

    Important
    Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in order to avoid excessive runout of the tire and wheel assembly.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Yeah, bad too if you're looking for one in good shape. Over stocked here as well, but the gems are high. Haven't found any actual 92s but found 93-95 running in the mid 3's to 4295. Also an 89 they wanted 2800 for. Just have to get bids from them now.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Good point for those owning it. Does seem dumb as I can show you many references stating the need for lube to make sure friction doesn't create an inaccurate value. Pretty damn hard to get that nut the same as corrosion and pitting begins to develop over the years. The engineer who wrote that must have been a one time mechanic too damn lazy to lube and now he gives permission to do it the wrong way. I dare you to grab a nut just spun off with an impact wrench, particularly a dry one. If you haven't had the experience, they are hot. Same goes putting them on and that sudden expansion can cause them to bind as well. So if you're using a calibrated impact wrench, that is one you can dial the torque into, it will tighten to a different amount than a click style torque wrench dialed into the same value.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Nope, I meant $2,000. I traded my '97 Grand Prix in on a slightly used GMC Jimmy (fully loaded). And if I recall correctly the Jimmy cost me about $18k and they gave me $2k for the G.P. Selling it on my own wasn't going to get me a whole lot more so I took the deal. In my humble opinion when 4 door sedans - of the very basic variety - hit 100k miles they're worth very little. They certainly aren't worth anything in terms of "uniqueness" and at 100k miles people start to think of them as second cars or to be used by their 18 year-old heading off to college.

    FYI,
    Rob
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Yes there is a ring of truth to what you say, but I still think a Grand Prix should have been worth far more than you got. I would guess that a 2 yr old with 100K would be worth several thousand here. ___OK for grins I pushed in my zip for a '97 4dr SE of average condition at it is close to 4.5k retail now. And 3.4k private. And the 2dr GT is worth another 500. Go figure.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "I dare you to grab a nut just spun off with an impact wrench, particularly a dry one. If you haven't had the experience, they are hot."

    I've done a couple. Click my bio.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    Further to message 905, thanks to wijoco. I took my Taurus to my Ford dealer and after placing the diagnostic check, they found a front right side wheel sensor needed replacing. Stangely though, prior to finding this out, i had the parking brake light coming on intermittently. when this happened, the interior heating/cooling fan remained on, even when I took the keys out! This promptly drained the battery!! Anyway, now it appears O.K, it cost $200! Ouch! Thanks again for the tip.
  • s852s852 Member Posts: 1,051
    What are good front and rear replacement struts that will improve the ride by eliminating extra bouncing and float without making the ride "hard?" I want to tighten up the handling a little and have a more "controlled" ride than what comes stock from the factory without getting a stiff ride from too-hard struts that are inappropriate for a car like a Taurus.
    The factory struts feel like they are nearly worn out at 27,000 miles.
    What are typical costs for parts and installation?
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I know this isn't the Pontiac forum but wanted to respond to e-net-rider re: $2k for my used G.P. (though really this could apply to Taurus' as well). I should have noted that I live near Ann Arbor...which of course is 30 miles from Detroit. So all the domestic car values here are a bit lower than most all other areas. That might have had an impact.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    So this guy goes and buys himself an 03 Honda Accord, and alas, at highway speeds he notices a vibration coming out of the steering wheel. He says that a quiet unassuming person would ignore it. But again, he adds, a quiet unassuming person buys a Ford, GM or Chrysler.

    What seems fascinating to me is not is prejudicial comment, but the fact that Honda Accords have lots of mechanical problems. This is something that Consumer Reports missed big time didn't it? And this is not the only case I read about Hondas from different years having mechanical problems. What's going on with the venerable Accord?

    Hey! Taurus/Sable anyone?? :))))
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    This is a response to a message several pages back where a 95 would stall when it is hot and humid outside. I had a very similar problem with my 2000 and it turned out to be the Flex Fuel controller. I doubt they had FF vehicles in 95 but I'm not sure.
  • thedeethedee Member Posts: 2
    i must apply pressure and press the pedal at leasst 1 inch before any braking action whatsoever occurs on my 2001 sable. it has only been 1000 miles since i had new pads and the dealer said such a response is normal. does anyone else have such problems and is so what is the remedy? i only have 17000 miles.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    My daughter recently purchased a 2002 Taurus SES program car with approx. 25k miles. It has vibrated pretty bad at speed since she got it. The selling dealer finally took it in for a look and told her that both front axles were bad???? They were repaired under warranty.

    Is this a common problem with the Taurus? I have owned Hondas and Toyotas for the last 20 years and have never had an axle go bad before 100k miles.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    That's extremely rare. Usually it's and out-of-balance tire, wheel, or rotor.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Was the car in an accident/collision before your daughter bought it?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I don't know if the car was in an accident. She got it out of the shop today and says that it now drives fine. Hopefully there will be no further problems.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I would like to know the correct name for the subframe bushings on my 97 Taurus. I think I need to get the replacement kit to correct the awful popping noises when stopping/turning. I can actually feel the vibration in the floorboard. I am stumped as to what part to look search for on the Napa and PartsAmerica sites, I've tried all the obvious search terms.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I did my brakes today. It was a complete job, rotors and pads. My taurus has 38k miles and it is 2000 SES. Rotors were very rusty, I can't believe for this many miles, rotors can be this much beaten up. Any ways... I used Raybestos rotors ($50 ones) and Quite Stop pads ($65). installation was relatively painless. I discovered that Ford used red loctite on anchor bolts. Driver site bolts gave me hell of hard time. When I reinstalled them I used blue loctite. Lubricated slider pins and rubber boots with silicone grease. I took a test drive around the block, everything seemed like OK. I didn't hear any noise, braking power was there, pedal was way up compare with pre installation. So far so good. I like to thank Alcan, I used his advises. I'll take somewhere else to flush the brake system (not bleeding), it looked like kinda dark.

    While I was in grease, I pulled out MAF sensor to clean up. It was spotless but I sprayed it whith electronic part cleaner spray anyway. My car is pinging especially summer time. I realized that if AC is on, engine doesn't ping though. Since MAF was clean, my next step will be fuel injector cleaning (professionally).
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like you did things right. One tip, treat the brakes gently for the first 250 miles or so to allow the pads to seat on the rotors. Less chance of future brake squeal, pull, etc.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    Thanks again for all the suggestions. Unlike what I heard and experienced, my rotors and pads didn't create burning smell when I was doing test drive. On my previous cars, when shops replaced these parts, for the first 100 miles or so, I got burning smell. I guess, the nature of QS pads is that they don't create that smell...?

    Alcan, do you think I am on the correct track for pinging issue, like getting FI cleaned?
  • newtofordnewtoford Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 98 Taurus 4 months ago. It now has 59,000 miles. I live in Wisconsin, and the problem I am having is when I start out on the
    first trip of the day, the transmission winds out to about 20 mph before it shifts into 2nd gear. Sometimes it won't even catch and acts as if it is in neutral. The weird thing is that if you stop the car and start out again, it shifts at the normal speed (10-15mph)and works fine everytime after that. The colder the weather, the longer it takes to shift into 2nd gear, but it will do this even at summer temperatures. I have had the transmission flushed and new fluid put in, also a can of transX has been added. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so, what do I need to do to fix this problem?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Well, you've already eliminated the easy solution with the fliud replacement. Since this problem only occurs on cold startup, it sounds like a mechanical problem developing in the transmission. Possibly a solenoid beginning to fail (I'm assuming the 1-2 shift is solenoid controlled), which would be a fairly simple and relatively cheap fix. It could also be a mechanical problem in the transmission's hydraulics. If it continues to get worse, you'll definitely need to give it some attention. I wouldn't accept a quick "yeah you'll have to rebuild the transmission" from anyone, though.
  • liangtaoliangtao Member Posts: 3
    My car (Taurus 1997 GL) is having SES light on. The codes are P0340 (Cam sensor malfunction) and P0430 (Catalyst low efficiency). Did anybody here have the same problem? What is the reason for that problem? I wonder how much the dealer will charge for fix such problems.
    Thanks!
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    My 2000 SES has the same problems as mentioned. There is an inch travel before anything happens. Try reversing sharply, but only for a few feet with the parking brake on. this is an old trick which helps the self-adjusters go up a notch or two if they need to. I had the brake fluid changed, made little or no difference.
    It is an absolute discrace Ford do not fit discs all around in this day and age. To fit them on the wagon and not the sedan is madness. Remember to use the stick shift to help braking where you need to, such as coming to a bend where the last thing you need is to apply the brakes. Compression braking is stil a good idea. This is why rotors wear out so fast as there is so much pressure on an inadequate system.Just bring the shift stick down to the middle "D" or even "1". It is the correct way to drive an auto anyway as you retain greater control over the car's traction when the situation demands.
    I Still love the car though. Great value, space, pace (Duratec) and comfort and 27 mpg on a run and 24 around town. not bad for a car weighing in at 3300 lbs. The only other thing I feel is poor is the headlamps on main-beam/high-beam. The spread of light is dire, does anyone else notice this?
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I am very surprised that you got 27/24 from Duratec engine. Using small gears should increase your milage, creates more heat in transmission...

    I would do it only if the road was covered by snow and/or ice.

    Constantly downshifting and upshifthing on auto tranny is not smart thing for any car at all unless the car is auoto stick.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    Hi Snowman,

    I appreciate your comments, but you will always get better mileage if you are in the correct gear at the right time. Most people drive autos in the "overdrive" setting around town which means you are inadvertently "feathering" the gas pedal and wasting fuel and braking in an overdrive gear puts a lot of pressure on the brakes, brake fluid and rotors. With the Duratec being a 4 valver, there is little low rev torque as I'm sure you know, so being in the lower ratio is more economical. Also, if approaching an incline, drop the selector from overdrive "D" to the lower "D" without moving your right foot and the car maintains it speed.
    Also regarding your last point, when you think it about it, by leaving the car in the middle "D" avoids changing up and down doesn't it. Which proves my point!! I take your point about heating the transmission, but with today's oil, it is nothing like as bad as it once was and you save a lot more on your brakes and rotors. It is also safer to use compression braking which is witnessed by the idiots I see that constantly brake on sharp bends.

    My gas mileage figure is not unusual if you read these pages regularly. Driving technique helps and of course, where you live. Kansas City (my home) is pretty open without much traffic, so stop and start is not common here. But you really should get around 27 mpg on a run with this engine.
    My main gripes with the Taurus are the brake effort needed, the noise around the doors (wind) which they have apparantly improved for the 03 model, and the poor headlamps/headlights on high or main beam. otherwise it is plusses all the way.

    Regards

    Ian
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for that update. You are probably right about cheaper in Detroit. Employees usually get a deep discount and that may be entering into the trade as well as vehicles from cold country don't seem to hold up as well. Extremes of sub-zero to over 100 are much more than we endure in the south. I hardly ever see below freezing and still max out at about 100. Also all that salt.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It has been my experience that for that new car ride, it is best to stick with the OEM. Even if you find who made the struts for Ford, you will probably not be able to get the same ones because Ford probably patented their spec.
    It is odd they wore out so quick. Have you changed tires? Did Ford put less than optimum tires on your vehicle because of a tire shortage? Have you maitained proper inflation? If you've blown a strut you should have seen obvious signs of leaking before it pumped dry. Do you live in chuck hole city?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    If you have rear drums, you might have the work double checked. I had a similar experience with a different vehicle, Topaz I think, where they didn't get the hardware installed correctly and the self adjuster wouldn't work correctly. It was also notable by the parking brake as it had to move farther to lock the rear wheels. If the self adjuster are working, you should be able to force them to tighten by slowly moving back and forth and applying the foot brake.
    If they turned your drums and rotors, the drums will require a larger arc on the shoe and will wear rapidly until they are fully seated. They will also wear out quicker. Some shops will arc the shoe to the inside of the newly turned drum. I've also seen where the arc on new shoes wouldn't match new drums. (Both were aftermarket products) Unless that condition existed the last time you had new brakes or in the distant past, I would suspect a bad brake job. The only other thing would be if they replaced the master cylinder or the power unit. They didn't install or adjust it correctly if that is the case.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Not likely, but anything is possible. It is highly unlikely with that milage that something was kicked up from the road and puntured two boots so the grease would come out. Maybe they were inferior from the start, but is the milage true? Can you tell if any work had been done in that area before? Sometimes a mechanic will get careless and with a tool accidently pinch or punture the boot. And it is possible to get the unscrupulous one as well that pokes a tiny hole so the grease eventually spins out. I bought a 95 only to discover both out-board boots were busted. I discovered it soon enough so that I only had to clean the joint and install new boot kits. At 180K, one of the inboard went, but I couldn't find the kit, so I took it to a local rebuilder. Also since the grease appeared to be dried out, I took the other shaft as well. He did both inboard joints for $50 and it was still good at 230K when the car got totaled.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    you need further analysis, unless you are using the shotgun approach. (change everything, until you fix it). You could jack the car, both sides so the pressure via the stabilizer bar is even and try wiggling joints via the wheel or with a prybar. Some things won't show up without weight on wheels. Your sound discription could use more explanation. One poke at the problem as desribed is it is similar to sounds evoked by bad bearing on the upper strut mount.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Trans-x? Well it is your transmission, but I'd do everything possible to fully flush it from the tranny. If I remember that product, it mostly contains solvents that would help orings swell, but it can also eat away the o-ring in the process. I would only use that in desperation of avoiding a rebuild. Your problem sounds like there are a lot of other possiblilities. First, that trans is controlled by the computer. Have someone that knows what they are doing give it a thorough diagnosis. Delayed shift when cold could be a temp sensor as it makes sense for the shifts to be delayed until the engine warms. Second, it may be a temp sensor on the tranny, or one of the other sensors feeding info back to the computer. As a precaution, find out what fluid the shop put in the tranny. Several years back, everything got Dexron. Not good for a Ford. Actually the government used Type F in everything as Dexron didn't meet MilSpec. If you feel you want an additive, use Lube-Guard unless otherwise indicated. It is recommended by the American Transmission Rebuilders Association Group for AXOD's. They do engineering to improve the reliability. It might include a minor part change or opening an orifice slightly to improve flow. They provide the "Bible" for rebuilders.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    First, I don't know the rear design for that particular year, but Ford had one design if the parking brake was applied and the self-adjuster wasn't close to where it needed to be, the self-adjuster would become dislocated only further complicating things. Also some designs, the parking brake itself would encourage self adjustment. Do with caution, whatever approach you use.
    Further, engine braking or compression if you choose to call it that is only a good idea under certain circumstances. Depending upon the specific model, the over-run clutches might only be disengaged in gear 2 or 1. This puts a strain on the engine and tranny and is only recommended for additional braking on steep declines or with heavy loads. The over-run clutches allow the engine to return to idle and coasting takes place to improve gas milage!!! Braking should never be applied during a turn. If you must, that means you've overestimated the road, and you need to adjust your driving habits.
    You are also inhibiting control of the vehicle. If you slide a tire, you may prevent the ABS from regaining control since it expects the tranny to be free wheeling. Even with out ABS, taking your foot off the brake, you may not be able to regain control. And under slippery conditions it alone may cause you to loose control and not be able to regain it.
    Most of the heat is generated by the torque converter because it is constantly slipping except during lock-up. Even with that, most are designed so the moment you start decel the valve controlling that opens. Too, with the torque converter only locking above say 50MPH and not locking in gear 1 or 2, you are again generating excess heat. Which is cheaper? A tranny rebuild or brakes?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    "Most people drive autos in the "overdrive" setting around town which means you are inadvertently "feathering" the gas pedal and wasting fuel and braking in an overdrive gear puts a lot of pressure on the brakes, brake fluid and rotors"

    WHAT?? Are you driving with your foot on the brake? Anytime the accelerator would be less than maintaining speed, in the upper gears it will free wheel.
    With today's electronic trannys, they are able to sense the pressure created by the torque load and determine the optimum shift points, both for engine stress and maximum MPG.
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