Real-World Trade-In Values

Mr_Shiftright · March 2016

That's about normal dealer retail so maybe you can try 10-15% off that? BTW, I don't see it on the dealer's website inventory, so maybe it's gone?

steine13 · March 2016

kyfdx said:

That's cool.. I guess to get the true imputed value, you'd have to know how much you sacrificed over using a credit card with 1% cash back, over the time you accumulated your GM points.

That's easy enough to figure out -- the $2k "bonus rebate" was just that, which leaves $1,332 of "earned" rebate at five percent.

This required me to give up 1/5 of that in credit card cash rebate, or $266.
I now have a two percent cash back from citi, so now it becomes $532 -- but that one is a recent development.

The thing with the GM Card is you never know the form of the rebate ... if you get "topped off", your earned rebate goes completely by the wayside. I try to max out the card every year mostly from habit; I've had it for 21 years now and it's helped me out quite a bit.

But the main thing is to have it so if they decide to give away some money... and since their various depts don't talk to each other... naturally... amazing deals can be had at odd intervals.

Cheers -Mathias

kyfdx · March 2016

Congrats. Amazing deal

qbrozen · March 2016

Michaell said:

Vin WVWFD7AJ6BW152346

Seems a little rich. I've got one in Cali with 64k for $10k and one in FL with 58k for $9k. So let's say the lower miles pushes this one at that $10k number. Hits their lot at $11k TOPS and puts you at about $13k, maybe $13.5k purchase price. Not CPO, right?

Michaell · March 2016

qbrozen said:

Michaell said:

Vin WVWFD7AJ6BW152346

Seems a little rich. I've got one in Cali with 64k for $10k and one in FL with 58k for $9k. So let's say the lower miles pushes this one at that $10k number. Hits their lot at $11k TOPS and puts you at about $13k, maybe $13.5k purchase price. Not CPO, right?

Not to my knowledge. It's at a Nissan dealer

breld · March 2016

Wife is mildly interested in this, so figured I'd ask:

In Denver, CO

2012 Mini Cooper hardtop (base model)
Manual trannie
20k miles
Pano Sunroof

I think it has some upgraded leather interior too.

Non-Mini dealer has it listed for $13,500. They've had it since 12/21/15 according to the Carfax.

Thoughts on trade and thus, fair price?

Thanks!

stickguy · March 2016

wrong coast, but this one seems like a better value for the same price. Plus, per the carfax, it was CPO a year ago so still under warranty. But man, I still can't warm up to those wheels. And skinny little tires!

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/659469792/overview/

mjfloyd1 · March 2016

stickguy said:
well, if your other option is a new one, what is the best price you can get there since it is current MY? If you are looking at a $5k delta, worth it to take 2,500 miles.

It didn't have the sport pkg, so no sport differential, sport exhaust or dynamic steering. Looks like invoice is 74k ish and there are $1500 conquest and $500 Audi loyalty, so only $3k difference from new. I couldn't pull the trigger without the sport pkg.

Car is marked sold but in reality sold to the Toy Barn in Goshen, IN and is for sale on their site (without pictures). I called and asked about it and then noticed they put the carfax up -same car... Weird...

stickguy · March 2016

that seems to happen somewhat often. My guess, is that people respect a high end specialty used car place, so figure they are getting a good car/deal, but the same car at say a Nissan dealer (I can't remember now where it was) would be a no go. So, flip it for a mini and let someone else retail it.

sebring95 · March 2016

Hi all, it's been awhile. I have a couple cars I'm looking for and wonder what you're seeing out in the auction world. Both will be Ohio or thereabouts and at least clean or better.

2013 Nissan Maxima SV Prem, Tech, ~30k miles, Dark Brown, Blue, or Black over Tan.

2014 Honda Accord EX-L, ~30k miles, Brown, Blue, or Black. EX-L w/NAV would work too.

Thanks in advance. Also, I know there are some Audi S4 fans around here so if anyone would like a good read, this ad always gives me a chuckle. Probably been for sale close to a year now.

qbrozen · March 2016

Mini - $13.5k is not bad. $11k auction value. If they have been sitting on it this long, maybe you could steal it for $12.5.

Maxi - roundabout $19k at the block.

Accord - let's call it a sedan. $17.5-$18k for a 4-cyl and about $19.5k for a 6-cyl.

sb55 · March 2016

Q,
Any idea on this one might have been at auction.? According to carfax, they have had it since December.
These wagons seem to hold their value pretty well, but finally seem to be coming down a bit. It checks most of our wish list boxes.

http://www.herbchambersmercedesbenz.com/used/Mercedes-Benz/2013-Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-3b94fdc50a0e0ae815ab0216ae59ab4c.htm

notfast · March 2016

sebring95 said:
Thanks in advance. Also, I know there are some Audi S4 fans around here so if anyone would like a good read, this ad always gives me a chuckle. Probably been for sale close to a year now.

WOW! I am the previous owner of that car!!! I know the whole story behind it & would be willing to share with you guys if anyone is interested.

stickguy · March 2016

I was curious because seeing the pictures, seems odd that it would end up on a salvage title. So must be something missing. I would guess it was stolen and recovered?

nyccarguy · March 2016

notfast said:

Thanks in advance. Also, I know there are some Audi S4 fans around here so if anyone would like a good read, this ad always gives me a chuckle. Probably been for sale close to a year now.
WOW! I am the previous owner of that car!!! I know the whole story behind it & would be willing to share with you guys if anyone is interested.

Please share. Inquiring minds want to know.

tommister2 · March 2016

nyccarguy said:

notfast said:

sebring95 said:
Thanks in advance. Also, I know there are some Audi S4 fans around here so if anyone would like a good read, this ad always gives me a chuckle. Probably been for sale close to a year now.
WOW! I am the previous owner of that car!!! I know the whole story behind it & would be willing to share with you guys if anyone is interested.

Please share. Inquiring minds want to know.

Yes please share.

andres3 · March 2016

stickguy said:
They certainly do that in Philly explorer.

Old rusty Accords are the same way. People pay prices I don't understand.

People pay more for old used up Honda's and Toyota's because of what real-world experience tells you. They are essentially bulletproof. Case in point, in '02 we bought a ten-year old '92 Civic Hatchback Auto DX model with 166K+ miles. It was reliable and fairly clean for its age and miles. Ran it for 2 years up to 200K miles, and sold it for only $800 less than we paid for it. Probably put in about a grand over that time with new brakes (rotors too; maintenance), new distributor (CEL light repair; unexpected), new instrument panel from a junk yard (speedo issues), and that's it. Good little car; very low cost/mile ratio.

andres3 · March 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:
Well I think you are leaving money on the table if you take $6K for it. I think the low miles offsets any concern about an old fender-bender. Unless the CARFAX says "airbag deployed" or "frame damage", it's my opinion that after a certain age, 10 years or so, an accident record reflecting some sheet metal damage just doesn't matter very much anymore.

I don't see why you couldn't make yourself another 2 or 3 thousand dollars selling privately, if the car is as nice as you say. I bet most of the ones you've seen at $7-10K are higher miles cars, sometimes double the miles you have.

One Audi used car manager would disagree with you. My old A3 barely got hit on the rear bumper, requiring a simple repair and respray of the back bumper only ($667). It showed up on CarFax because it was the La Mesa PD that hit me and they reported it. Car was nearly 8 years old and 100K miles and they offered $6K. I said what if the Carfax was clean; answer, $7K. That's 1/7th of the value gone for the most minor of accidents virtually possible (no sheet metal; only plastic damage), and this on a 100K mile car!

andres3 · March 2016

tommister2 said:

nyccarguy said:

notfast said:

sebring95 said:
Thanks in advance. Also, I know there are some Audi S4 fans around here so if anyone would like a good read, this ad always gives me a chuckle. Probably been for sale close to a year now.
WOW! I am the previous owner of that car!!! I know the whole story behind it & would be willing to share with you guys if anyone is interested.

Please share. Inquiring minds want to know.

Yes please share.

That's an extremely interesting ad as it's very similar to the S4 I'm stuck with only mine's got 43K miles and I actually love the car (but hate the accident history; luckily, mine's not salvaged).

Questions I'd pose to the seller:
1) if it's salvage, how can it be only the back bumper was damaged?
2) why don't you want to hear about unbiased KBB values?
3) I don't care if it was only the back bumper repainted; I'm deducting 20% off a clean car value in my offer.
4) Why are the pictures of 2 different cars? Different wheels when you show the back, vs. when you show the front.

qbrozen · March 2016

sb55 said:
Q,
Any idea on this one might have been at auction.? According to carfax, they have had it since December.
These wagons seem to hold their value pretty well, but finally seem to be coming down a bit. It checks most of our wish list boxes.

http://www.herbchambersmercedesbenz.com/used/Mercedes-Benz/2013-Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-3b94fdc50a0e0ae815ab0216ae59ab4c.htm

I can't see that far back, typically. With those miles, they are floating around $35k-$36k.

notfast · March 2016

Since you guys insist... here's the really long version:

I bought the S4 new in northern IL in September 2014. I had surgery in October and didn't drive it much (anfd I still had another car for highway/construction zone duty). On the Friday before Thanksgiving week, I took the Audi to work and crossed the 1000 mile break-in period on the way to my office.

Leaving work, I exited a busy highway and got into the right turn lane at the end of the ramp. Cars were making right turns on red one at a time and eventually I pulled up the front of the line. I think the punks behind me in their parent's newer Volvo S60 weren't paying attention, saw cars pulling onto the surface street and the driver floored it (they assumed the light went green). Too late they saw me stopped, swerved but rammed their front passenger corner into the rear driver corner on my S4. I was totally unhurt but VERY shaken up and upset. The punks (4 guys, maybe late high school or college aged) came along side and one said something about us both pulling over on the main road. I finish my right turn, and start looking for a shoulder (there was none) and drive about 1/2 mile down to a side street. As I near that road, I look around and realize the Volvo IS GONE!! After pulling along side to talk, it passed me & I'd noticed that it had out of state plates (Wisconsin Packer tags) but I missed the number - dangit!! I call for the police and get an accident report - but there's not much he can do.

I get an initial estimate, and after teardown the estimator calls me to tell me that the collision damaged the side and rear frames and crumpled the underside of the trunk. His guess is the cost to repair will be around $20,000 and declares it a total loss. From what I remember, he bases the totalling on the severity of the damage, it being virtually new and my having "Keeper" coverage on my Country policy that will repay me the price of a replacement S4. I was still in shock: my first new car in ~ 10 years, my first Audi, my first hit and run and now.... a big check to cover it. I was/am pretty mad at the guys in that car - these jerks probably went home and told mommy that they didn't know what happened to her S60 instead of taking any responsibility.

I've google'd the VIN a few times and have seen it for sale in Ohio with similar verbiages (about it having been a "minor" collision) and just laugh about the lies. Which also reminds me to skip salvage titled cars too....

And I bought a dashcam for my other car shortly after this. I'd always been meaning to, but my S4 experience made me wish I'd done it sooner.

stickguy · March 2016

Scary story. But at least (and it isn't usually this way) sounds like you didn't come out on the short end of the stick.

andres3 · March 2016

notfast said:
Since you guys insist... here's the really long version:

I bought the S4 new in northern IL in September 2014. I had surgery in October and didn't drive it much (anfd I still had another car for highway/construction zone duty). On the Friday before Thanksgiving week, I took the Audi to work and crossed the 1000 mile break-in period on the way to my office.

Leaving work, I exited a busy highway and got into the right turn lane at the end of the ramp. Cars were making right turns on red one at a time and eventually I pulled up the front of the line. I think the punks behind me in their parent's newer Volvo S60 weren't paying attention, saw cars pulling onto the surface street and the driver floored it (they assumed the light went green). Too late they saw me stopped, swerved but rammed their front passenger corner into the rear driver corner on my S4. I was totally unhurt but VERY shaken up and upset. The punks (4 guys, maybe late high school or college aged) came along side and one said something about us both pulling over on the main road. I finish my right turn, and start looking for a shoulder (there was none) and drive about 1/2 mile down to a side street. As I near that road, I look around and realize the Volvo IS GONE!! After pulling along side to talk, it passed me & I'd noticed that it had out of state plates (Wisconsin Packer tags) but I missed the number - dangit!! I call for the police and get an accident report - but there's not much he can do.

I get an initial estimate, and after teardown the estimator calls me to tell me that the collision damaged the side and rear frames and crumpled the underside of the trunk. His guess is the cost to repair will be around $20,000 and declares it a total loss. From what I remember, he bases the totalling on the severity of the damage, it being virtually new and my having "Keeper" coverage on my Country policy that will repay me the price of a replacement S4. I was still in shock: my first new car in ~ 10 years, my first Audi, my first hit and run and now.... a big check to cover it. I was/am pretty mad at the guys in that car - these jerks probably went home and told mommy that they didn't know what happened to her S60 instead of taking any responsibility.

I've google'd the VIN a few times and have seen it for sale in Ohio with similar verbiages (about it having been a "minor" collision) and just laugh about the lies. Which also reminds me to skip salvage titled cars too....

And I bought a dashcam for my other car shortly after this. I'd always been meaning to, but my S4 experience made me wish I'd done it sooner.

How is it possible 20K totals a $60K car (if it is true it is loaded as the seller says)? Something is missing here. You did mention frame damage, but still, never heard of a 33% of value repair being called a total. Usually it's around 80%.

28firefighter · March 2016

And that, in a nutshell, is why I will never buy a Salvage title car...

sebring95 · March 2016

Glad everyone enjoyed that story as much as I did. I've seen this ad for quite awhile and the description used to be far worse. Originally it just said the part about being "like new and oh btw it has a salvage title but no big deal it was just a bumper replaced". I assumed it had to have unibody damage to total it out.

Thanks for the pricing info. Those were both higher than I expected based on asking prices I'm seeing. How about one more?

'13 Avalon XLE Touring <30k miles, clean or better. White, Silver, Black, Red. Ohio.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2016

andres3 said:

Mr_Shiftright said:
Well I think you are leaving money on the table if you take $6K for it. I think the low miles offsets any concern about an old fender-bender. Unless the CARFAX says "airbag deployed" or "frame damage", it's my opinion that after a certain age, 10 years or so, an accident record reflecting some sheet metal damage just doesn't matter very much anymore.

I don't see why you couldn't make yourself another 2 or 3 thousand dollars selling privately, if the car is as nice as you say. I bet most of the ones you've seen at $7-10K are higher miles cars, sometimes double the miles you have.
One Audi used car manager would disagree with you. My old A3 barely got hit on the rear bumper, requiring a simple repair and respray of the back bumper only ($667). It showed up on CarFax because it was the La Mesa PD that hit me and they reported it. Car was nearly 8 years old and 100K miles and they offered $6K. I said what if the Carfax was clean; answer, $7K. That's 1/7th of the value gone for the most minor of accidents virtually possible (no sheet metal; only plastic damage), and this on a 100K mile car!

Well perhaps such a minor accident is a detriment to a dealer's used car manager because people generally mistrust used car managers. But with a private party, and given your straightforward explanation, I don't think any rational person would care one bit if a rear bumper had been repainted on an 8 year old car.

qbrozen · March 2016

sebring95 said:
Glad everyone enjoyed that story as much as I did. I've seen this ad for quite awhile and the description used to be far worse. Originally it just said the part about being "like new and oh btw it has a salvage title but no big deal it was just a bumper replaced". I assumed it had to have unibody damage to total it out.

Thanks for the pricing info. Those were both higher than I expected based on asking prices I'm seeing. How about one more?

'13 Avalon XLE Touring <30k miles, clean or better. White, Silver, Black, Red. Ohio.</p>

varies based on condition. A couple of super clean ones hit $22k, while the run-of-the-mill examples were $20k.

notfast · March 2016

andres3 said:
How is it possible 20K totals a $60K car (if it is true it is loaded as the seller says)? Something is missing here. You did mention frame damage, but still, never heard of a 33% of value repair being called a total. Usually it's around 80%.

The estimator told me it was being totalled based on frame damage (and safety of it after repairing), the newness of the vehicle and my full coverage. I also think he didn't like the shop I took the car to and didn't want to deal with them. I was as shocked as you... I've had $12K damage done to a $18K car and it was repaired.

I also wonder that since it was my insurance covering the car, they are more likely to "do the right thing." In that $12K/$18K crash, it was the other driver's fault and his insurance covered the repairs.

I looked a little closer to the pics from Autotrader and those are not the wheels that came with my car... mine were 18" and those are 19" wheels (or copies) from the Black Optic package. Here are pictures from the salvage yard: http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34744894/Photos?SearchId=1189574770

sebring95 · March 2016

qbrozen said:

sebring95 said:

'13 Avalon XLE Touring <30k miles, clean or better. White, Silver, Black, Red. Ohio.</p>
varies based on condition. A couple of super clean ones hit $22k, while the run-of-the-mill examples were $20k.

Thanks. That seems like the better buy than the Accord or Max.

andres3 · March 2016

notfast said:

andres3 said:
How is it possible 20K totals a $60K car (if it is true it is loaded as the seller says)? Something is missing here. You did mention frame damage, but still, never heard of a 33% of value repair being called a total. Usually it's around 80%.
The estimator told me it was being totalled based on frame damage (and safety of it after repairing), the newness of the vehicle and my full coverage. I also think he didn't like the shop I took the car to and didn't want to deal with them. I was as shocked as you... I've had $12K damage done to a $18K car and it was repaired.

I also wonder that since it was my insurance covering the car, they are more likely to "do the right thing." In that $12K/$18K crash, it was the other driver's fault and his insurance covered the repairs.

I looked a little closer to the pics from Autotrader and those are not the wheels that came with my car... mine were 18" and those are 19" wheels (or copies) from the Black Optic package. Here are pictures from the salvage yard: http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34744894/Photos?SearchId=1189574770

Now I'm curious if you or anyone else knows what the salvage yard/insurance company got for the damaged S4? I wonder how much they paid for it, and are now trying to unload it.

Maybe I should start a collection of accident damaged Misano red S4's.

xwesx · March 2016

andres3 said:

Maybe I should start a collection of accident damaged Misano red S4's.

That's a rather subtle red; it's very difficult to see!

notfast · March 2016

No idea what Copart got for "my" Audi - my involvement ended when I had to drop off some documents at their facility. I think the auction had an asking price (or starting bid?) in the upper $30's

breld · March 2016

qbrozen said:
Mini - $13.5k is not bad. $11k auction value. If they have been sitting on it this long, maybe you could steal it for $12.5.

Maxi - roundabout $19k at the block.

Accord - let's call it a sedan. $17.5-$18k for a 4-cyl and about $19.5k for a 6-cyl.

Follow up - bought the Mini today for $13k. Thanks Q!

stickguy · March 2016

B, you are a machine. Truly impressive.

Hope the wife enjoys it for the 2 months you have it!

Post some picks.

xwesx · March 2016

stickguy said:
B, you are a machine. Truly impressive.

Hope the wife enjoys it for the 2 months you have it!

Post some picks.

Haha, yeah. I can see this going from a Cooper to a Cooper S (probably not a JCW given the price increase vs. performance improvements), then maybe a Clubman before moving on from the brand.

xwesx · March 2016

notfast said:
No idea what Copart got for "my" Audi - my involvement ended when I had to drop off some documents at their facility. I think the auction had an asking price (or starting bid?) in the upper $30's

Notfast, it is great that you were willing to share the back story on the S4; it isn't often that we get to hear details like that when cars with this sort of "questionable" description come along. Thank you!

breld · March 2016

xwesx said:

stickguy said:
B, you are a machine. Truly impressive.

Hope the wife enjoys it for the 2 months you have it!

Post some picks.
Haha, yeah. I can see this going from a Cooper to a Cooper S (probably not a JCW given the price increase vs. performance improvements), then maybe a Clubman before moving on from the brand.

I wouldn't disagree.

69moparguy · March 2016

Looking for some advice or help on a possible trade. I'm considering a used '15 Challenger SRT with 2500 miles and it is totally loaded. VIN: 2C3CDZDJ2FH892852. I've noticed on CarGurus they don't seem to move very fast and can sit for 70 days and longer. But they all seem to start at $45k and higher. After 70-100 days they are down to 40k at a few dealers. Does this indicate the wholesale value is around 37-38k? I have a clean titled '14 Challenger R/T+, 11k miles, roof, nav, leather, auto, with numerous mods and immaculate to trade. Is a trade difference of 11-13k duable? I'm in MO and the 15 is 250 miles away.

Thanks for the help!

qbrozen · March 2016

so i googled it and found a white one with manual transmission and manual trans in Little Rock. Yes?

These vary quite widely. About half come through in poor condition, interestingly enough. I guess they are a source of abuse. My only real comp was one in decent condition, 2300 miles, and manual trans, BUT It was grey. That got $41,000. They might let it go for $43k in a worst-case scenario.

Your target is nowhere near possible. You might be $24k-$25k on yours. There is a HUGE difference for the market between a standard RT and an SRT392.

The reason some are dropping the way you see them is probably because those are the poor condition ones I'm seeing. There are several down in the mid $30s range.

thlrdeye · March 2016

I'm in a bit of a pickle and desperately need some help. I live in southern CA and debating on trading in or returning my lease to the dealer. It's a bit complicated though... I have vandalism damage ($2,200) from keyed scratch all along the entire passenger side. My insurance deductible is $1,000, though the bodyshop says they'll help me a bit to reduce my payment to $750.
2013 Toyota Prius 3 (backup camera, navigation)
- 57K miles
- 9/10 condition, other than paint damage
- silver paint
- fresh tires

All dealers say repairing the damage won't improve their offer. One dealer tells me they'd rather have their qualified body shop repair than to have it show up on Carfax. Is this true and would this be the case if I decide to return the lease? Meaning... will Toyota charge additional fees because there was an insurance claim?

My lease residual is $15,700.
$300 disposition fee
$1,800 excess mileage (12K miles over)
$750 insurance deductible
Total $2,850 needed to return my lease. The trade-in breaking point is $12,850 so I wouldn't have to pay out of pocket. I know it's the least ideal solution of rolling that over into the next car... but I've been unemployed for 6 months and had to resort to Uber/Lyft driving to keep the bills paid.

Thank you so much in advance!!!

steine13 · March 2016

>> $1,800 excess mileage (12K miles over)

If you're paying 15 cents a mile, rejoice.

It's not going to get a lot cheaper, no matter what you drive. Why not ride out the lease, hope nothing breaks -- a solid bet on a Prius -- and then figure something else out?

That way you're guaranteed a "trade-in value" equal to the residual number, body work be damned.To my mind,this is the biggest advantage of leasing -- loss of value is not my problem.

Good on ya for talking to dealers before having the car repaired. It's good to have options, and I understand where they're coming from with the carfax.

Good luck,
-Mathias

69moparguy · March 2016

qbrozen said:
so i googled it and found a white one with manual transmission and manual trans in Little Rock. Yes?

These vary quite widely. About half come through in poor condition, interestingly enough. I guess they are a source of abuse. My only real comp was one in decent condition, 2300 miles, and manual trans, BUT It was grey. That got $41,000. They might let it go for $43k in a worst-case scenario.

Your target is nowhere near possible. You might be $24k-$25k on yours. There is a HUGE difference for the market between a standard RT and an SRT392.

The reason some are dropping the way you see them is probably because those are the poor condition ones I'm seeing. There are several down in the mid $30s range.

Thank you for responding and your input!

Yes it is in Little Rock at a Infiniti Dealership but it is an auto.

Yes they are high performance cars, so a lot will have drag track wear. Which is why I was after a very low mileage one.

I think the ones I have seen drop to 40k and below have been there close to 100 days. I found one with 1000 miles @41.5 and when I sent them an email they came back with 40.5. When I responded back it was sold and it was almost identical to the white one.

From Edmonds I think they show trade in for the white one around 39.8. So wouldn't wholesale be at least 1k lower? And I think Edmonds had my car trade in @ 26+.

I'm going to wait to check on wh. one until it hits 60 days on lot. Thanks again!

qbrozen · March 2016

trade-in is typically $1k below auction value, so Edmunds actually got the SRT correct. Yours is about $25.5k-$26k at auction, hence me pegging it where I did.

The site I found it on said manual. Just checked again and found a pic. Definitely an auto. Doesn't seem to change the value, though.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2016

Q....why is there a difference between trade-in value and auction value? I would think that most of the stats for trade-in value we see online come from auction results.

qbrozen · March 2016

I think it is to protect themselves in case they need to send it to auction or wholesale it. If a dealer pays you straight-up auction value, then they have no choice but to sell it themselves. If they are unsuccessful, then they have to pay transport and auction fees to recoup their investment, which would put them in the red on your particular car.

They will step up if they feel strongly enough that they'll have no problem retailing your trade or if they really want to get the deal done. It is why Carmax is often higher than a dealer... because Carmax is absolutely keeping it for themselves and you driving it to their door saves them auction fees and transport.

Similarly, they can go even lower if they are selling to a wholesaler. It adds yet another middleman to the process. They'll give you, let's say $1500 under auction, then sell it to the wholesaler for $1k under auction, and then the wholesaler either takes it to the block or sells it to another local used car dealer.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2016

That makes a lot of sense---thanks!

thlrdeye · March 2016

steine13 said:

>> $1,800 excess mileage (12K miles over) If you're paying 15 cents a mile, rejoice. It's not going to get a lot cheaper, no matter what you drive. Why not ride out the lease, hope nothing breaks -- a solid bet on a Prius -- and then figure something else out? That way you're guaranteed a "trade-in value" equal to the residual number, body work be damned.To my mind,this is the biggest advantage of leasing -- loss of value is not my problem. Good on ya for talking to dealers before having the car repaired. It's good to have options, and I understand where they're coming from with the carfax. Good luck, -Mathias

I haven't spent much time entertaining the idea of keeping the Prius any longer than the lease because I can't wait to move on to the next car. It has been as reliable as can be, but also the most boring vehicle I've ever owned.
With that said, I don't like the idea of paying $16K for a car I don't want that carries a $10-13K value.

qbrozen · March 2016

Complete shot in the dark, but I'm going to say the Prius would be worth $10k.

surferdudehb · March 2016

Is this a fair price from a Toyota dealer?

Used 2014 Toyota Camry SE, Certified, $17,424 with 26,979 miles, clean car fax 1 owner zip code 77450.
TMV is at $17,822 certified and $ 16608 retail in xclent condition

Michaell · March 2016

surferdudehb said:
Is this a fair price from a Toyota dealer?

Used 2014 Toyota Camry SE, Certified, $17,424 with 26,979 miles, clean car fax 1 owner zip code 77450.
TMV is at $17,822 certified and $ 16608 retail in xclent condition

Color?

And, we aren't the post office - what city and state is this?

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