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Comments
pray tell me where os can stay away from there till you get it fixed
I have an 03 and have the same problem. In the morning, or when I first set off after it sitting for awhile, when turning left only it feels like the wheel is stuck on something...then it breaks free and all is fine. Also, when making left turns only, it will squeal 90% of the time.
My Jeep guy says that the only thing to do is replace the steering box. I haven't done it yet but I will eventually. The problem is only an annoyance right now so I'm not in a big hurry to spend the $$.
I know this isn't REALLY an answer but I hope it helps. Most people think I'm crazy when I tell them it only happens when turning left.
Has anybody actually had this issue fixed?
Also make sure you use a Grade 8 Bolt.
Turning left: vibration, noise. Steering fluid in the reservoir was blackish.
Dealer $400 for new steering box, and $400 labor.
Been running fine since.
Dealer said life time warranty; meaning don't have to pay out of pocket for the same repair twice. But dealer has gone out of business since.
These days no customer deserves anything less than perfect off the lot. Accept nothing less. The customer is not supposed to fix issues with new vehicles, that's why dealers have franchises and get paid profit when they sold it to you.
If it is used, then you bought the problem. Good luck and don't back down.
I appreciate any info.
:shades:
I went the local parts store here in Calgary and bought two front rotors, Akebono calipers and new pads. I pulled off the old rotors and calipers (calipers went back as exchange cores). The mating surface between the new rotor and hub was rusty and uneven. Chrysler data says it must be smooth and even so I took air tools with wire wheels and cleaned them for hours so that there would be less wobble possible between the rotor and hub mating surface.
The new setup is fantastic. My braking pulse is gone. My front end shimmy is gone while braking. The old original Jeep calipers showed signs of seizing part way and dragging. The best part is mileage went WAY UP. We previously lived with about 450km on a tank (yeah, we got used to it over the years) and after the new setup, we get close to 750-800km per tank. Huge difference.
My only leftover complaint is that a bump in the road still causes a minor rattle in the steering wheel. I have the original steering damper and have bought a Moog replacement which I will install (About $50 from Amazon). I will be pleased to report the difference, if any. Also, I inspected the rods and ball joints as best I could and did not detect any play. The only other place might be the pitman arm but I'm going to wait until I replace the steering damper since that is pretty easy. Hope this helps.
The guy who posted about replacing the stock bolt with a 7/16” bolt is right on the money. The housing that the stock bolt goes through has too much slop. Mine wasn’t wallowed out or anything, it’s just a bad design. A 7/16” diameter bolt fits perfectly. Ordered my bolt online from McMaster-Carr. Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Flange Cap Screw 7/16”-14 thread, 3” length. Unfortunately, they only sell them in a 10 pack. That was about $12 total. Their part # for the bolt is 92316A656. Here’s the problem I encountered though. That bolt has to go through the track bar bushing and that IS NOT 7/16” diameter. The previous guy said “drill it out”. Not so easy. Extraordinarily hard tempered metal. All my bits (went through 3 of them til I quit that approach) just made smoke and heat and began to melt the rubber. If you can do it that way, good on you. But there’s an easier way. Take the track bar to a machine shop if you don’t have a press. Have the bushing (the rubber part, the hard metal bushing inside of it and the thin metal shim ring on the outside) pressed out. Cost me $10. Go to NAPA and buy just the track bar bushing (NAPA part #274-9213). Cost me $17.69 with tax. It’s a “problem solver” bushing. Consists of two polyurethane/rubber halves and a metal bushing sleeve. Turns out the sleeve is 7/16” inside diameter! No drilling. New bolt fits perfectly. Solved my problem!!
The only other thing I would add is about the nut that goes on the back of the bolt. The stock bolt is actually tack welded to a Z-shaped tab that is perfectly ergonomically designed to help you get it back together. It’s in a really tight constricted space. You’ll see. Here’s what I did: I took the factory tabbed bolt and re-threaded it to 7/16”-14. Wasn’t hard. Did a little internet research on tap & die drilling. Drilled it out to the proper pre-tap diameter (memory fails what that diameter was, sorry), then used a 7/16”-14 tap to cut new threads. If you don’t want to bother with that, I’m sure a machine shop would do it for you too. Maybe weld your own tab to a 7/16” nut, that’d work too. I’m also sure that you could just put a regular old nut on the back but it will be a PITA getting it started and tightened.
Good luck. Thanks to all those who posted before me. Helped me diagnose and solve my problem. Just wanted to pay it forward and add some things that will make your fix even quicker and easier.
Vehicle Component: STEERING:GEAR BOX (OTHER THAN RACK AND PINION)
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 286
2004 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Defect Summary:
ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, THE POWER STEERING GEAR MAY CONTAIN AN IMPROPERLY FORMED SPACER CLIP, WHICH COULD DISLODGE WITHIN THE STEERING GEAR.
Defect Consequence:
A DISLODGED CLIP MAY CAUSE INCREASED STEERING EFFORT, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLIES. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON MARCH 12, 2003. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
Notes: DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION, C12