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timing belt replacement?

24

Comments

  • jgard1jgard1 Member Posts: 19
    fuji: The list at Gates www.gates.com states that your legacy is a non-interference engine so engine damage is not likely in the event of a belt failure. It recommends you replace it a 60K intervals.

    jayguo: The Protoge has a belt. The engine is also of the non-interference type. Its is recommended that you also change it at 60K intervals. In the past a timing chain was a common item on most automobile engines. Nowdays, they are in the minority. Most engines in todays cars use a timing belt.
  • everseeverse Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Just bought a 1993 Mitsu Eclipse with 48000 miles on it in really good condition. Could someone tell me if I should change the timing belt now or can I afford to wait a while.

    David
  • everseeverse Member Posts: 2
    Also, about how much will it cost.
  • jgard1jgard1 Member Posts: 19
    Check out the link in #53, go to automotive -> belts. There you will find a replacement guide (in .pdf format) which you can check yourself. There are a few different engine types for that particular vehicle, so you will have to know this information. All of them seem to be of the interference type (well documented at that site as well). So I would suggest replacing it before or very near to the specified mileage.

    As to cost, the belt itself is usually not too expensive, it's the labour to do the job. Typically a couple of hours. I would suggest shopping around for a good independent mechanic who has experience with that particular vehicle.
  • trmgatrmga Member Posts: 50
    My '93 Lexus GS 300 just turned 100,000 miles. Dealer recommends changing timing belt at 90,000 miles. Manual says change at 60,000 miles but dealer said that Lexus subsequently changed that to 90,000 when they found that belts were lasting longer than 60,000. $385 to put new one on. Anyone out there have good feel for how many miles I might expect to get before I really need to replace that belt. Anything else that ought to be changed while they are working in that area? thanks for comments.
  • bill11770bill11770 Member Posts: 29
    It could go another 50,000 miles, but who knows?

    Why push it? At the very least, it will break when you least expect it to and will leave you stranded, possibly in a dangerous situation!

    While they are "in there" have them inspect the other belts, water pump, etc.
  • bill11770bill11770 Member Posts: 29
    I left the last post, but I am not bill11770 !!

    I am the infamous "isellhondas"

    Can anybody explain? ..Let's see what happens this time!
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    we're looking into it...

    Your host, Bruce
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I'll try it again...I did look at bil1770's profile...hmm, could he be a prankster or something?

    Let's see what happens now!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Strange...!
  • bill11770bill11770 Member Posts: 29
    i've lost my identity.... doh!
  • rkpattrkpatt Member Posts: 23
    Does the Totoya Sienna 3.0L DOCH V6 have a toming belt or a timing chain ? If it's a belt what is the approximate replacement cost ?

    Thanks
  • agheenagheen Member Posts: 4
    My 93 Eclipse has thrown a timing belt twice, once at 35K miles and again at 85k miles. Both times it has "mangled" the engine requiring a new short block or new parts to completely rebuild the engine. Is this normal or should I be contacting the manufacturer. Each time it has done a lot more damage than bending valves, which I understand is normal on interference engines. I am looking at 4 to 5 thousand dollars worth of repairs on this second incident. HELP !
  • jgard1jgard1 Member Posts: 19
    The recommended change interval for the Mitsu Eclipse is 60K (see the link in #53). If I were you I would have been in contact with the manufacturer after the failure of the original at 35K! The 50K since then is approaching the replacement interval, but you would think the recommended interval includes a healthy safety zone given that the engine is of the interference type. Anyhow, these premature failures might indicate some other problem, (just what I don't know) but in any case I would be demanding some sort of compensation, at least for the initial instance. All you can do is try. Good luck.
  • agheenagheen Member Posts: 4
    Been doing some research and found my 93 to technically be a 92. Have always had to buy parts for a 92. Anyway, there was a recall issued for Timing Belts on 1992. I never received any info. on that. When the first incident occurred, the vehicle was still under warranty so the dealership DID rebuild the engine at no charge. My big question, is why is it doing more than bending valves, and should I expect that if I get this vehicle fixed, it will happen again.
    There has also been many complaints on timing belt breakage to the NHTSA. So, I'm assuming I'm on the right track and will contact Mitsubishi today.
  • jgard1jgard1 Member Posts: 19
    While it is true that bent valves would be the result of timing belt failure of an interference type engine, it is certainly not the only thing that can happen. The valves and or the stems are damaged as a result of contact with the piston, (without proper timing, they may attempt to occupy the same space at the same time.) This very high speed collision probably not only does damage to the valve train, but no doubt also the the pistons and possibly their connecting rods.

    Seems as though you've done your homework, and seeing how this problem seems to be well documented, I would keep the pressure on the manufacturer to receive some sort of compensation.
    Good Luck.
  • danfoxdanfox Member Posts: 1
    I originally misposted this in another area so am reposting here.

    I have a 1997 Sunfire sedan with the 2.4L DOHC
    engine, auto trans and 41,000 miles. I just had the water pump replaced to stop a coolent leak. When the car was returned the engine had clacking noises mostly at idle when the engine was fully warm. This required replacement of the valve chain, chain guides, and chain tensioner. This failures strike me as premature in a car that has been carefully maintained.

    I've generally heard good things about the durability of this engine but all this has cost me $1,500 bucks and diminished my faith in the longetivity. I offered Pontiac the opportunity to stand behind their product but then declined. Has anyone else experienced these kinds of problems with this engine?

    Thanks, Dan.
  • kjtgkjtg Member Posts: 49
    Does the new Honda CRV need timing belt replaced? If so how often..
  • jgard1jgard1 Member Posts: 19
    John: ALL vehicles equipped with a timing BELT require belt replacement at some specified interval. Check out the link in post #53 for all the info you require.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I was told by the service advisor at the dealer, that my new '00 Impala LS timing belt is made of metal, no rubber like in most cars. He also told me that I would not have to worry about replacing it until the car hits the 150,000 mile mark. Is this an accurate statement?

    I come from Honda/Acura cars with rubber timing belts and 60,000 mile replacement intervals. If the Impala has the metallic timing belt and the intervals are so spaced out, that makes the Impala a fantastic and very easy car to maintain (Easy on the wallet too) compared to the Honda products.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    On all Hondas built from 1997 on, it's 105,000 miles for the timing belt.

    From 1989 to 1997, it was 90K, and before that it was 60K. Is that such a big deal?

    This is itself is hardly an argument that a Chevrolet (of all things) as going to be a "fantastic" and "very easy to maintain" car as compared to a Honda!
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I have follow your posts elsewhere in Edmunds, for many months now. They are very informative and I admire your firm standing in favor of Honda products. They are very good no doubt about it.

    My ownership with Honda/Acura products goes all the way back to 1989:

    1989 Honda Accord LX (5-Speed) 2.0L Barrel Carburator 12-valve 4 Cyl Engine. (This car was DOG SLOW, and had numerous brake problems with it. Now the positives, Top notch fit and finish for 1989 compact car standards and 40 MPG on the highway! The clutch never ever gave up on me, but the A/C (Freon based) did many times.

    1990 Honda Accord DX Sedan (Automatic) 2.2L EFI 16 Valve SOHC (Made in the U.S.A.)

    Great car! was our household workhorse, never had a problem with it. It was a good faithful friend.
    No right hand mirror and austere AM/FM Tape radio with just two apeakers! Nothing power. well except the brakes and steering.

    1994 Honda Accord LX sedan (Auto) Traded the '90 for this guy and 2 weeks after delivery my sister was rear and side ended while waiting on a red light by some high school kids speeding in a 1990 Nissan Maxima. End result, nothing happen to the Maxima, but the Accord had to be rebuilt on the entire right side. Suffice to say, the car was never the same again (Badly repaired a the Honda dealer bodyshop)and was developing rust on the replaced fenders. Kept for a few years until..

    1996 Honda Accord LX sedan (Auto) Traded the '94 for the "improved" 96 and the first thing I noticed was the "smoother" transmission. The car looked much better than the '94 and '95 and is still with us, 43,000 miles later and no problems. Bad side to this car....3 break in attempts to steal it. This is the NUMERO UNO favorite car among thieves.

    1995 Acura Integra LS sports sedan (5-Speed) My introduction to the Acura fold. Good car, but aside from the 1.8L 16 valve standard (No GS-R)engine this car was a Honda Civic in sportier clothes. Got sick of its smallsize very quickly and the hard as a brick seats. Nice car but not impressive for the price.

    1997 Acura TL 2.5 "Premium" Traded the '95 Integra for this baby and I leased it for 3 years. I think the first TL was a much more elegant better looking car that the current frumpy "Accord in Tuxedo" 3.2TL. Tight as a drum, but many little things kept braking on this $30,000 premium car (But covered by the 4/48000 warranty). The 5 Cyl engine was a very rare powerplant (Vigor heritage) but was noisy when pressed hard, and love to drink expensive premium gas. The worst aspect about this car was the 4-speed "Grade Logic" automatic transmission...harsh as a Jeep Willys..horrible and a detriment to that car. Honda never did anything to correct the horrible shifting patterns of that transmission. Finished my lease last January...and....

    I figured it was time for me to leave planet Honda/Acura and see how other automakers had been doing during the past 10 years. Well, I went to my near Chevy Dealer and test drove the Impala LS....much smoother and powerful all around car than my last Acura TL and all the Accords behind it.

    A test drive on that Impala was enough for me to say good-bye to the me too, everyday excellent Honda products.

    I still like Hondas, but the smoothness of GM's 3800 Series II V-6 and the superb GM 4AT65 4-speed automatic surpasses the best V-6 engines and transmissions from Honda in terms of reliability, performance, emissions, fuel economy and service. The 3.8L was Ward's Automotive 10 best V-6 engines in the world for many years until 1997 when GM's own 3.5L DOHC 24 Valve engine from the Intrigue detrone it from the honors. Still The 3.8L is one impressive powerplant for being a "Pushrod" with a basic design that dates back to the original 1960's Buick V-6. Impressive.

    Isell, I respect Honda, its products and the many years of satisfaction and virtual troublefree service provided...but this is the reality...this is not the 1980's anymore when Honda was the best car in the market aimed at the masses. Much has changed and Honda needs to pay more attention to the quality trends coming from other automakers, including domestic ones. A couple of years ago I saw an interesting book titled "Is Honda competing against its own past?" where the author criticized the "Conservative" approach of Honda and its mainstream products. Very interesting document. Hopefully Honda will turn more interesting products..ala 1980's during this new decade. The Insight and S-2000 is proof of it.

    Now, maintenance. I got sick and tired of the high maintenance bill of Honda products. I guess the promise of great reliability comes at a higher price. $300 to $400 a year in routine service is rather high for a car that promises innovative engineering and high quality.

    My new Impala doesn't cost more than $140.00 a year to perform routine service, including oil changes, tire rotations and alignments. Big difference. OHV "Push Rod" engines are much easier and cheaper to maintain than SOHC and DOHC engines. Becuase of the nature of the latter (High RPM, more moving parts) strict and more expensive servicing is demanded. Nothing wrong with that, but to me new cars and newer technology should not be this expensive to upkeep, if it promises above average reliability in the long run.

    And before you start saying that domestic, specially GM products are junk..well think again. The Impala boasts old tried and true powertrains, electronics and other components, so I am not a beta tester for GM. Sweet car and could potentially treat the long standing leaders in its class...the Accord, Camry, Intrepid and Taurus.

    I hope Honda reduces the stringent service requirements in [non-permissible content removed] vehicles...and if they make them more interesting and less appealing to the masses, I am sure I will be back into a Honda showroom in the future.

    For now I am happy with my decision.

    Good luck and keep selling those Hondas.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I am now on my 5th Honda Accord, and did not realize that the service requirements were so "stringent". Just basic good sense maintenance is all that mine have required. My 91 Accord LX has 146,000 miles, and has not yet experienced any major problems--some minor though-radiator, master cylinder and one axle. No big deal for a car with this many miles IMO.

    Maybe you were just looking for a reason to buy "domestic"? Hope you have good luck with the Chevy. Check back with us in about 2 years and let us know how it is doing. That will be the proof. Maybe Chevy quality is better than it used to be when I drove them. Quality was terrible in the late 70's and early 80's. That was when I changed to Honda.

    Mitchell
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    You know,I cannot believe the manufacture bashing I see on some of these sites.Why knock a person for what they like or prefer?As a person who has to work on vehicles everyday,I can tell you that Honda is a higher maintenace vehicle than the Chevrolet.Chevy's are alot easier to work on and less cost to maintain on a relgular basis.Granted,all of them have their problems,but to say that one manufacturer is far superior over the other is pure bunk.From a repair standpoint as someone who sees alot of these vehicles constantly,There are few that really standout as far as ease of repairing and minimum cost of repairing(meaning the see less problems)the Impala and Lumina from GM is one,Toyota's Supra,and Dogde's diesel pickup are a few.There are others,but all of them have their problems.None are really any better than the others.So,from someone who has to work on these vehicles,Yes,I can say that the GM vehicles are easier to maintain.Any time you have a chain drive valvetrain,the longevity of it is going to be much longer than the belt drive.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I am NOT bashing other makes. I am just stating my preference. I personally have had good luck with Honda and not so good with other makes. And yes, a timing chain will usually outlast a timing belt. But which engine will last longer in the long run? I see many more Hondas and Toyotas with very high miles (over 200,000) than any other. Drive what you prefer and I will do the same.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Your post wasn't the one bashing,I apologize,I should have said that the post I was refering to was further up,but I didn't think that it wouldn't be obvious.Sorry.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I want to clarify this:

    I am not bashing or faultying Honda for their stringent maintenance guidelines. It is a fact of life with SOHC and DOHC engines. The more moving parts the engine has, the more maintenance is required to upkeep the complexity and reliability of the engine.

    "Pushrod" engines might be decades old technology (So DOHC engines are believe it or not)but they still work extremely well and are capable of deliverying the low end torque needed in U.S. driving conditions, that very few DOHC powerplants have been able to match. OHV engines have fewer moving parts compared to DOHC engines thus making them easier and cheaper to maintain and repair delivering comparable performance, emissions (LEV ratings) and fuel economy under normal driving conditions.

    DOHC engines are a great accomplishment since the inception of the combustion engine, but their main culprit has been the lack of low end torque and the cost of maintenance and repairs. The main advantage of cammed engines is that the cars perform much better at constant high speeds requiring high engine RPM's. Driving conditions demanding top engine performance at high speeds are found in Europe, not the U.S. We have speed limits in our Highways and generally drive much slower than our European counterparts. U.S. drivers need and are accostumed to have most of the torque available at lower RPM's for passing, pulling, stop light getaways and so forth. OHV valve engines do a great job under those requirements. DOHC engines develop most of their torque and Horsepower and much higher RPM's in the power band, making them perfect for conditions demanding that a car can cruise comfortably and safely at 100 + MPH for hours and hours. DOHC cars give the driver "The Rocket Thrust Effect" rather than the "Neck snapping effect" of pushrods. That's the reason why most smaller displacement DOHC engines feel sluggish off the line and demand to be revved hard so they can develop enough torque and Horsepower (They feel like the Turbo-Lag problem). However, once these small DOHC powerplants are revved to the sky, they can propel the car impressively..for a long time...that's what pushrods can't really do well.

    However, out of the two, I prefer the "Neck snapping" effect of OHV's as they better suit the driving conditions of our country. People are sold into VTEC technology, but most don't really understand the purpose and engineering logic behind the technologies offered in cammmed engines and much less get to use them often if ever at all. They just buy for the marketing hype associated with the brand and the DOHC engine technology. I have had both types of engines and I still prefer the metal Timing Chain to the rubber Timing Belt.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Seems that you are still trying to convince yourself that you made the right decision??? Remember, this is the "timing belt replacement?" forum, not the "I love my pushrod engine" forum. Good luck with the Impala.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I am enjoying my Impala. Actually, I have already convinced myself on my decision, way before I signed on the dotted line 3 months ago. Apologies for having jumped out of the topic of this forum. I believe both engine technologies have their share of benefits as well its shortcomings. It all comes down to personal preferences and driving needs.

    Is your Accord coupe a V-6 or 4 banger? How you like it so far?

    Very nice car! Problem is that I don't really like cars with just 2 doors (Need to carry people in back)....but if I had been single probably I would have picked the Accord Coupe.

    Peace and enjoy!
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Mine is an LX 4 cylinder automatic. It has been great so far. I commute 50 miles round trip every day and am getting 28-30 mpg. This is my first 2 door in 21 years because of having a wife and family. Wife and 14 year old son gave thumbs up on this coupe, tho.
  • 1990accord1990accord Member Posts: 1
    I want to know what it should take to replace a timing belt on my 1990 Honda (automatic). Also, I'm at 90,000 miles -- should I get the usual full checkup (seems like they load on costs for things like "check exterior lights" that I don't want to pay for), or do I only need certain critical things?
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Hello! Welcome to Town Hall!

    You might also want to post this question in our Honda Accord problems topic (#903). There's a guy hanging out there who knows a lot about working on Accords - he would probably have some thoughts for you.

    Of course, he might see your post here. But if not, feel free to repost in #903. (You can just click on that highlighted link to get there.)

    Good luck, and again, welcome, glad to have you here.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I would suggest having the water pump replaced along with the timing belt. Also, drive belts if worn and have a valve adjustment. The remainder of the checks are mostly visual, but they charge quite a bit for them.

    I had timing belt only replaced on my 91 at 90,000 miles, then had the water pump go bad at 105,000. That's why I would do both at the same time. Labor will be about the same, and you don't have to pay it twice like I did!!!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I'm glad you are happy with your Chevy. I hope your happiness continues as the miles accumulate.

    I also hope the resale value doesn't disappoint you when it's time to sell it.

    I rented an Impala recently and although I couldn't stand the looks (subjective, I know), it drove very well.

    I came from a family of Buick owners and my first car was a Chevy. I have owned quite a few of them.

    My last GM car bought new was an 1989 Buick Le Sabre T-Type that I babied until I sld it with 60,000 miles to a friend. It had the much touted 3800 V-6 engine. My friend, the new owner, babied it even more so than I did but had to have the engine totally rebuilt at 88,000, when the crankshaft broke of all things! Of course, I felt terrible, but the shop that repaired it said that was very rare.

    No car is perfect, and I really believe that everyone should drive what they enjoy.

    And...A timing chain Vs. a belt does not make an engine one twit more reliable!
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I am well aware of the "Resale" value issues with domestic cars. I have also seen Hondas going for almost nothing, and mind you, cars in excellent condition with low mileage. I guess the market always dictates the value of a car (Supply, demand, reliability history, popularity and so forth). I am planning of keeping my Chevy for longer than 5 years, so I know at some point in time re-sale value wouldn't be much of an issue. And if the car turns out to be reliable and holds well overtime (This car seems to be the (Positive) rare exception of past GM products in terms of quality and longevity) it should have essentially paid itself by the time I sell it or trade it.

    I am glad you have "GM" family background and that you liked the driving characteristics of the Impala. Its a great car, may be the one of the best Chevy sedans in a long time. Let's be honest, the Impala wasn't meant to be a "crowd" pleaser or pretends to be a high volume sales vehicle in the league of the Accord and Camry. This car has a love it or hate it nature and I personally find that trait particurlary appealing. But the Impala has the potential to make a "dent" on Camry/Accord sales overtime. Its good to have good competition from the domestics side aside from the "dull" Ford Taurus.

    Isell, I am interested to get some insight on the 2001 Civic and the 2002 Honda Accord....do you have any info on the upcoming changes for these cars?. I would like for my wife to eventually trade her '97 Mercury Tracer LS (Very good little commuter car) for a Focus or the upcoming Civic.

    Have a great "sales" filled day!
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    You state a very good case for the Impala. Of course, when you get rebuttals like "you'll pay for your mistake," you know you are treading on sacred ground because you go against the conventional wisdom concerning import reliability.
    I'm glad to see this improvement in domestic quality. Enjoy your Impala.
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Member Posts: 120
    was in a repair shop recently and they were
    working on a car with the LT-1 (impala engine).
    the owner showed me the part that is equal to
    the dist. cap,this car had about 55K.the part is
    mounted between the eng.block and water pump!
    His cost was about $240.the water pump is gear
    driven and costs a bundle also.If and when the
    water pump gaskets leak,guess where the water
    goes.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    What should it to replace the timing belt and drive belts only (no water pump) on a 97 4 cylinder accord with AC. My local dealer when pushed to put a quote in writing came up with over $500. What's reasonable.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    You might also want to ask your question in the Honda Accord problems topic (#903) in case you don't get a response here.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    From my experience (91 Accord-basically the same engine as yours), timing belt and drive belts should run in the $350-400 range. I would go ahead and replace the water pump too. If it goes bad soon the labor is the same to replace it as for a timing belt (requires the same amount of work). My local Honda shop charges around $550 for timing belt, drive belts and water pump.

    I have had timing belt only replaced for as little as $175 at an independent shop, but they are under new management and now charge as much as the Honda shops.

    Go to the Honda accord problems forum and get an opinion from the Honda tech there (Auburn63 I think). He seems to know his stuff.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Honda keeps things pretty quiet as far as upcoming changes go. I guess they believe in selling what's in stock now.

    I've seen some artist renditions of what the new Civic might look like, but these are usually off base. The Accords are too far down the road.

    And, when the new Civic arrives, some will like the changes while others will ask why we screwed it up! I've heard that it'll look more "german".

    Guess we will find out!
  • tarmantarman Member Posts: 12
    The timing belt broke on my 1990 Toyota Corolla last week. After having the belt replaced, my car broke down again several days later. After ruling out a possible faulty belt, my mechanic believes that the valves may have been damaged. After reading the posts here, I'm under the impression that the Corolla has a non-interference engine. Could the valves/cylinder head/or pistons been damaged any way? Visual inspection hasn't revealed anything...the cylinder head is being sent to the machine shop right now. If it is one of the valves, then my mechanic quoted the repair job at $800--$180 for the new valve, $200 for the head gasket, and $400 for labor. Is this in the ballpark (the parts seem expensive to me--carparts.com lists the head gasket at around $40)? Any advice/help is appreciated,
    Chris
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    I think is time for a new car. I wouldn't never drop that kind of money on a 10 year old car. Timing belt damage is something not to take lightly.

    Just my .2 cents
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Check on line at places like carparts.com or just call your Toyota dealer. The mechanic is probably replacing all of the valves, but the head gasket price seems high at $200. They certainly cost more than an oil pan gasket, but $200 seems high.

    Are you sure he did not say gasket set. Head gasket plus other gaskets for the top end of the engine.

    Cheers,

    TB
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    As I understand things, Toyotas have non interference engines. Valve damage should not have happened.

    Also, no valve is 180.00, and 200.00 for a head gasket is a joke.

    Find an honest mechanic!
  • tarmantarman Member Posts: 12
    From what I researched on Carparts.com, head gaskets were around $40 and intake/exhaust valves ran about $10-15. The mechanic did not imply that the price was for a gasket set (which still would not be $200) nor did he say that he was replacing all of the valves (I highly doubt that all of the valves were damaged). I will call him today to ask for a price clarification...If I don't get satisfactory answers from the guy, then I will have to tow the car and its parts elsewhere in LA. Not a fun prospect...

    Regarding the non-interference question...most Toyotas don't have an interference engine, but I did notice on one of the sites provided in this topic that the 1.8 DOHC engine was one--I believe this is the engine in the 1990 Corolla. Can anyone confirm this?

    Teo, I would love to be able to get a new(er) car but I just bought a brand new Trooper last fall and don't have the money to buy another car. Maybe by the end of the year...in the meantime, I'm stuck with this car as our second car. By the way, the car has 123k miles on it (not bad for a 10 yr old car)--timing belt was replaced at 70k--thought I had a few more miles to go before replacing the second one.

    Thanks for your help guys,
    Chris
  • kmagkmag Member Posts: 98
    The timing belt shredded itself a few weeks ago at 75K miles. Towed to the local Olds dealer, next day and $1100 later, engine is running again. Dealer say this is the normal replacement cost! 10.8 hrs. of labor and a bunch of gaskets also required. Beware anyone with this engine, GM 3.4 DOHC V6 from the early 90s also used in Grand Prix & Monte Carlo. I will be selling the car before replacing it again.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    This powerplant was a total disaster and taken off production during the 1994 model year. Essentially, this engine was "transformed" from a basic OHV "Pushrod" to an OHC design....you know the rest of the story.

    The current 3.4L OHV V-6 GM engine is in no way related to the pedestrian 3.4L DOHC of the early 1990's. In fact the new 3.4L OHV has proven to be very reliable so far.

    And the 3.5L DOHC V-6 "Shortstar" (exclusive to the Olds Intrigue)is also an excellent performing engine and a far cry from GM's early attempts at DOHC in the 1990's.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    Let's see... if you read the owner's manual, recommended belt replacement is 60K miles, not drive it 'til it breaks. I had mine replaced at the interval (63K), and was set back $526, which included a new belt AND the two plastic idler pulleys. It would have been about $100 cheaper w/o the pulleys, but they are a wear item just like the belt.

    In fact, the Pontiac service manager remarked it was the first time in a while that he had seen a worn belt NOT broken. (and it was a black rat's nest under the cam covers) Why? People are rolling the dice or not abiding by the maint. intervals. Well, a $500-600 cost difference tends to make think otherwise about stretching it (no pun intended).

    I disagree this engine is a "disaster". Aside from an alternator replaced at 36K miles (since when has GM made a reliable one?), and this timing belt, my bought-new daily-driver '93 GP w/3.4 w/every toy has had zero unscheduled maint. Just periodic fluid/filter changes (air/oil/coolant/trans./brake), spark plugs/wires - and it doesn't leak or burn any oil.

    If anything, the engine/tranny is trouble-free, I love how it hits the 4-5K sweet spot when passing/merging on the highway, and it's quick off the line. OK, the heavy 2-doors have sagged, and the rear disc brakes are afflicted with poor slider design, but overall, this car has been joy to own.
  • ataieataie Member Posts: 84
    thinking about buying a VW GTI VR6, and need to know if these have timing belt or chain.

    thanks,
    Shon
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