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Problems with 99 VW Passat GLS

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Comments

  • tonyc7tonyc7 Member Posts: 2
    Wonderful, I thought the check engine light problem was limited to 96 models when OBD II first came along. My 96 Jetta GLX's light has been on more than off. I was considering a new Passat but now I see there are problems with the Passat's check engine light too.
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    I haven't seen my check engine once. (22k+ on the odo) This is quite common with new, high compression engines...Volvo is going through the same thing.

    For a MUCH larger sampling of Passat owner experiences, check out www.vwvortex.com and www.clubb5.com.
  • jweiningerjweininger Member Posts: 1
    I'm wondering if anyone else has had this trouble - I have a 2000 VW Passat V6. When I am driving on windy areas on the freeway and going 65 mph the body of the car moves with the wind, but the wheels seem to hold on to the road. It's a bit scary...
  • iljeepiljeep Member Posts: 3
    I bought my Passat GLS brand new in April of 1998. My previous car, I bought new was a 1994 Honda Accord Coupe. I will use the Accord as a comparison, only in reliability because as far as style, performance the Passat blows it away.

    In 4.5 years, the only time my Accord had seen the inside of the dealership after purchase was for the scheduled maintenance. (I am a firm believer that one must follow the manufacturers recommended maintenance) I never, repeat NEVER had a problem with my Accord. I only changed the oil and did the maintenance. Whether that is luck or not, this is my only means of comparison.

    In exactly 2 years I've owned my Passat, it has been back to the dealer a record 10 times. It feels like I've had a loaner Jetta longer than my Passat. Now, this includes the scheduled maintenance in those 10 visits, however I was never able to bring in the Passat to get an oil change without having them fix a problem also. It was actually an annoyance because it was such an inconvenience to bring the Passat in, they would ask me to wait to have the problem fixed at the next oil change, unless it was major.

    The major problems I experienced in the past 2 years are: (Not in order)

    1) Spacers removed
    2) Drivers power window button failure
    3) Replace sunroof door because window was off the track and ruined the felt door flap.
    4) Temperature gauge malfunction.
    5) Check engine light.
    6) Blown baring in the engine (complete engine failure).
    7) Replaced ignition coil.

    Problems they are unable to detect:
    1) Vibration in the dash (Drivers Side)
    2) Vibration in the steering column (I found this one, that I will have them fix next time I'm in).

    I'm at 23K miles and I'm about to schedule my last warranty visit. I am scared to find out what the future brings as far as problems and what it is going to cost me.

    Now that I have extinguished the issues, lets talk about the good times.

    This car looks HOT! It drives like a typical German masterpiece. It handles beautifully, gets great gas mileage and is very fast. From what was written above, it would sound like I hate y car, but I don't. I actually love it and would recommend it to my friends. It sounds crazy, but you can't get a greater car for that price. It blows away all its competition in its price range. A lot of you might think this entire message is one huge contradiction, however this is my opinion and I'm entitled to it.

    Another thing, It's impossible to get very upset when your dealership is SOOOOO customer focused. They bend over backwards for me and I really appreciate it. Also, I was able to express all of my concerns on the multipage questionnaire VW sent to all owners. I was able to scream, so to speak, at them without having to invole my dealership.
  • disgruntled2disgruntled2 Member Posts: 5
    My 1999 GLS Wagon with 11,000 miles recently suffered a complete engine failure, later diagnosed as a defect from the manufacturer (VW Dealer's words, not mine). Remedy was a complete engine replacement (pursuant to the warranty). To my surprise (although I am new to this kind of thing) I received a re-built engine, not new. Approximately one week later it started leaking oil (the rebuilt engine that we had driven 100 miles) and now learn it needs a new head gasket.

    Has anyone ever had this problem or did we get "the lemon"? Also, do I have any rights regarding a new vs. rebuilt engine, or is this typical of warranties? Are rebuilt as good as new as VW has told me they are?
  • iljeepiljeep Member Posts: 3
    disgruntled2- I've never heard of such a thing. I can't believe they would give you a rebuilt engine. But I've never read the fine-print in my warranty, though.

    I also forgot to include an oil leak in my engine at 3k. They had to replace the head gasket also.
  • disgruntled2disgruntled2 Member Posts: 5
    i1jeep- Thanks for the comments. You reminded me we also had a head gasket replacement at 10k, prior to the complete engine failure ( incidentally the engine failure was discovered when they replaced the oil pump after discovered metal parts in the oil and filter).
  • disgruntled2disgruntled2 Member Posts: 5
    Clarification-- I stated we had a head gasket replacement at 10k, it was actually a valve gasket or valve gasket seal. Sorry, I am an engine novice. The remainder of my prior comments are accurate.

    Also, I must say the dealer is doing their best considering all of the problems--cannot blame them. It is VW I take issue with giving us a defective new engine at new then a defective rebuilt engine at 11K.
  • iljeepiljeep Member Posts: 3
    I'm having my VW service manager call me back. He will give me the lowdown on your rebuilt engine. I have a feeling he will say the same thing. I've noticed that these service shops all sing off if the same sheet of music, somehow. It's hard to catch them in a lie. I really have to try extra hard to catch em.

    OK, I just got off the phone with my VW service manager. Just like I suspected, his response was that you're probably better off with a rebuilt new engine anyway. He says to treat it like its's brand new, meaning, it has to be broke in like the original. Also, it will come with the 10/100k warranty to original owner. I'm sure you heard the same thing. He also wouldn't answer my question directly, if replacing with re-built is normal practice. They sure are smooth with their answers.

    If you got your VW questionnaire, please fill it out and tell them your problems and opinions. If enough of us do that, they might actually listen.
  • disgruntled2disgruntled2 Member Posts: 5
    i1jeep-

    Thanks for the response, it is helpful.

    We have not gotten the questionnaire, but certainly this whole issue will be covered.

    One postscript-- I just picked up the car from the dealer. When I turned the ignition, the fuel light went on. Turns out they ran the car out of gas when they "tested" the car after installation of the new haed gasket (let it run "for hours" they told me.) And, they had the guts to suggest I fill out the questionnaire favorably (after rushing to get me gas). Amazing!

    Needless to say, my wife and I have commenced looking for a new auto-- not VW. It's a shame because the Passat looks great and drives well when its on the road, but the rest speaks for itself.....
  • disgruntled2disgruntled2 Member Posts: 5
    tonyan--Thanks for the link. I will repeat my story there for benefit of fellow sufferers.
  • jrnattajrnatta Member Posts: 7
    I have a 98 Passat GLS with 40k on it. We have had the valve gasket seal go bad (at 5k), the driver's window switch went bad causing a problem with our security system, multiple check engine lights--some attributed to too much oil in the car causing mis-firing (we only go to the dealer for oil changes by the way), we had an engine coil go bad that almost led to a total loss of the engine according to one mechanic, the sensor in the coolant expansion tank has gone bad, we have a funny rattle in the dash, etc. etc. etc....

    The crazy thing about our experience though is that I would buy another one of these cars. No, I am not sadistic. I have been treated so well at two separate dealerships that I would go back to either one. My wife and I still love the way the car drives (although at 40k we already need new tires (I get them rotated every 5-8k.)

    All the problems that I mentioned above were fixed under the normal waranty or the extended waranty that I thank God I purchased. I would recommend to anyone thinking about buying a Passat to get the enxtended waranty.
  • jrnattajrnatta Member Posts: 7
    I forgot to mention that our passenger side trim on both doors also came loose and had to be replaced. The dealer did this for us under waranty because he had personally seen a ton of Jettas with the same problem (we had about 38k on the car at the time.)
  • sindicosindico Member Posts: 2
    Volkswagen's motto is 'driver's wanted'. They are currently doing a decent job of not fulfilling that request. I have had a myriad of problems:
    1. Driver seat was left unattached (noticed after I was ejected into the backseat while driving) from factory-hmmm...can we say safety issue
    2. sunroof tracks fell off
    3. seat track covers fell off
    4. flat spare tire
    5. rear cup holder broken
    6. passenger door switch fell off
    7. new transmission @ 25,000
    8. currently need new control arms after noticing loud cracking (squeaky bed springs) in front passenger side- tech said there was no lubrication at the joint!
    9. cant get parts! always on back order
  • sindicosindico Member Posts: 2
    by the way, volkswagen of america is completely uninterested in assisting me with the problems or costs of repairs after the warranty lapsed
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    I have just bought a fully loaded GLS V6 2000 Passat 5 days ago and I just noticed a kind of metal cranking noises on the rear side of the car. Its quite loud and mostly when i have passengers in the rear seat. It comes every time a rear passenger tries to get out or get in the car. I took the car to the dealership today but they said its quite normal and said its the disc brake noise. To me it sounded like a suspension problem. As if the metal springs are rubbing againt each other. Does anyone else has had this problem ? I love the car but cant accept the fact that a $29000 car should make noises like that.

    Manish
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    If you have the e-brake applied, but not very tightly, it is common to hear a "groan" or "creek" when someone get's into the car.

    Could that be it?
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    I noticed this noise first when i had just parked the car and my friends came out of the rear seat. As one of my friend came out the car started cranking loudly as if something had broken down. the same noise comes when i drive the car on a slow speed and suddenly come to a halt or give the car a jerk by applying the brakes. I dont think its the brake noise cause i am aware of that coming from the front wheels. this is louder than the brake noise and to me seems like a suspension prob.


    Manish
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    Well that's not your problem then.
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    Well , I have just figured out how bad my VW dealers service is.. I left the car at the dealer ship yesterday today they call me saying that my car can be picked up.. and GUESS what .. they changed my brake pads and discs.. !!! My new car just 5 days old and they changed the brake disc. they say my brake discs had rust spots on them and that is why they changed it. I dont know if that is going to solve the rear noise problem but my brakes are set very loose now.. i feel the brakes to be too low and loose compared to the earlier ones .. so the mechanic tells me its gonna be okay in 2-3 days driving.. i can get the car to stop the way i used to get it earlier. its like i have to apply extra pressue to bring the car to a halt... I dont believe that the brakes are going to be the way they used to be in my new car.. Im just going NUTS with the way things are going on.. they changed the brake disc of my new car without asking me whether they should do it or not.. my car just doesnt drive the way it used to.. i just dont feel good about it..


    Manish
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    Hi,
    Are rust spots on the disc brakes a good enough reason to change the disc brakes of a 5 day old car ? I mean i bought the car 5 days ago and the dealer changed my brakes because of some minor rust spots. The car doesnt drive the same way as earlier as the factory setting has been disturbed.

    M
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    New brake pads need to "bed in." Try to use gentle pressure on the brakes from varying speeds for the next 100 or so miles. This is common. It is possible that your grinding before was caused by improperly installed or improperly bedded pads. Did this solve your grinding issue? If so, then just take the time to bed in your pads.
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    Hey David,
    Thanx for the info. When you are saying that the brakes need to bed in, will they tighten up by themselves. I always thought that after driving for a little while the brakes usually loosen up a little. Im experiencing a feeling as if the brakes do not jam the wheels when i apply them.. even to get the car to a complete halt i have to really exert more pressure on the peddle than before. the service guy told the same thing that i should drive for 100 so miles and see if they come to normal.. im thinking that the service guy feels that my brakes are really tight. well the case is quite the opposite. well anyways im gonna hold on till another 130 miles or so and see if that makes any diff..

    well thanx again for your inputs. I was in VT during thanksgiving skiing up in Stowe.. nice place.


    M
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    This is just info I have read at www.vwvortex.com and www.clubb5.com, you should check it out.

    I know that when I first got my car, the brakes felt a bit less linear then they do now. They would grab less in the first 1/2 or so of the pedal travel, then REALLY grab in the bottom. Now it is much more linear, the harder I push, the more they grab. It took a good 150-200 miles to get over the "grabbyness." I know this is something you need to do when you replace pads later in the life of the car too.

    The brakes on my car are the best I have ever had, far better then my Hondas were. I have had to slam them on a couple of times and they pull me down FAST.

    Give it some time and see how it feels. If it is still screwy after a couple of hundred miles, go back to the dealer and make them fix it. If your dealership stinks (and many do) then try another. I have a great dealership here, but it is not my local one, for good service, it is worth the trip to me.

    Above all, try and stay positive, it sounds like you are really getting down on your car right now, understandably. You have a warranty, if something doesn't work, get it fixed, if they do it wrong, make them do it again. Be firm and polite and you will get it done right.

    Don't let a few teething problems sour the next 4-5 years for you.

    Enjoy! :-)
  • raechrisraechris Member Posts: 2
    What i have read is disturbing. the rust on the rotors is normal oxidation of metal when left in really any enviornment for a while aka your 5 day old car was sitting on the lot for a month. The friction of the brake pads on the discs would alleviate if not eliminate the problem over time aka a couple of good hard brakes coming off the highway at 65. i have a 99 gls passat and have problems with the dealership in resolving the issue. Also as an aside i would demand no invasive repair from the dealer as when a second pair of hands touches a car, they ALWAYS create a problem that wasnt there before
  • raechrisraechris Member Posts: 2
    actually for the first 100 miles you should use shorter, higher pressure stops to properly "seat" the brake pads in their brake shoes and to properly allign the brake pads to the brake rotor while they set.
  • manishrbmanishrb Member Posts: 10
    Is there anything that i can do now.. apart from waiting for my brakes to bed in. Im totally disturbed with the way things are going on with my new car. Im still trying to figure out if the brake disc should have been replaced or not ? I spoke to the sales guy yesterday about whats going on and after checking with the service he told me that the brake replacement had nothing to do with the noises that i was hearing . the service guy tells me that the noise is now eliminated. bcause of the brake replacement???? I dont know what the hell is going on . My basic prob now is that the brake peddle is set very loose.

    M
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    First off, don't freak out about the brakes being replaced...who cares? You have a set of brand new rotars and pads. Sounds like they were kind of grabbing at straws and trying different things to get to the bottom of your noise problem. Replacing the brake assembly was most likely a step in that protocal. If your noise persisted, they would try something else and so on and so on, it's normal procedure.

    Please try to describe what you mean when you say your brake pedal is loose. Maybe you should take a test drive in an identical car at the dealership to confirm that your brakes do in fact feel diferent. I you find this to be true, then MAKE the service advisor do the same and MAKE them remedy the problem. Brakes are an all important safety feature and if you are uncomfortable with how yours are feeling, or working, then you shouldn't be driving the car at all.

    One other thing...at some point my friend you will have to trust your mechanic. If they give the car a thourough check and find that everything is OK, all systems are operating at 100%, etc, then you need to stop fretting and get on with other things. Constant worrying will get you no where but sick, you know.

    Keep us posted! :-)
  • ksabol01ksabol01 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I'm a new user, about to be a college graduate and looking to buy a new car. I visited a Volkswagon dealer yesterday and love the Passat but, after talking to my much trusted mechanic, now have some doubts. He mentioned that the Passat's timing belt is extremely high maintenance, making it a pricey car to keep up. After reading all of your comments I'm starting to wonder even more how good of an investment this car is. I currently drive a 1991 Honda Accord and it runs great . . . but I just don't like the looks of the newer models. I really like the Passat. Does anybody have any comments or suggestions about the direction my car search should take? Is the Passat too risky for a young person with limited funds to risk having to maintain?
    Thanks
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Hi ksabol01, welcome to Town Hall!

    Since this conference is dedicated to discussing maintenance and repair issues of cars already purchased, this is probably not the best place for your question.

    Have you had a chance to look through our Sedans conference? There are quite a few topics over there discussing the Passat, and also comparing it to other vehicles in (and not so in) its class.

    You can click on that link to go to the Sedans conference and check out all the topics there. Or you can key Passat into the Topic Search feature on the left side of this page to get a list of all topics throughout Town Hall discussing this vehicle.

    Whatever your decision, if you have any maintenance or repair issues after your purchase, please come back to this conference and tell us about them. We'll try to help!

    Good luck.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • fff_releasefff_release Member Posts: 4
    I'm having problem with the fuel filler flap release button on my 1999 passat. The local VW dealer, after servicing my car neglected to reconnect the wiring so that this button nolonger works. That's no problem since i can have them fix it but another troubling thing is, I could not find a way to "manually" releasing it. Is the car even equiped with such a thing? If not, doesn't that sound like an item suitable for a recall?
    I'd appreciate any info on this.
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    recall???? Because there is no manual fuel filler release? You're kidding right?
  • fff_releasefff_release Member Posts: 4
    Recall, I mean they (VW) needs to fix it. I'm having my car towed to the shop just because of this. I don't think people would appreciate having to tow their due to such a minor problem... My opinion.
  • bmarketbmarket Member Posts: 1
    Own a 98 Passat with 31,000 miles. Both front control arms required replacement. Dealer admitted this is a problem area. VW covered the cost of the parts, while I covered the cost of the dealer's labor (warranty now expired)Labor
    charge was $217, included front alignment.
  • maengomaengo Member Posts: 4
    M, You have just spent $29k on a auto, enjoy it and stop obsessing over trivial things like a noise when somebody gets out of the back seat. If you start to "notice" every little thing you will spend more time with your car sitting at the dealers and not on the road. Car payment is due once a month regaurdless if it is in the shop or you are driving it. M
  • maengomaengo Member Posts: 4
    You are having your car towed in because there is no manual fuel door release?!?!?!?! Please say I have misunderstood this.
  • maengomaengo Member Posts: 4
    You are having your car towed in because there is no manual fuel door release?!?!?!?! Please say I have misunderstood this.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Could fff_release mean that the car ran out of gas because the fuel door could not be opened???

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • fff_releasefff_release Member Posts: 4
    Yes, barely had enough for my wife to get the two kids home that one evening. Nearest VW dealer is ~25miles away. Had I not figured out the way to open it, I'd definitely had it towed since it all imply the thing doesn't exist! Owner's manual does not reference such thing, Roadside assistant kept telling me how "other cars work". They said to look for a cable in the trunk adjacent to where the filler is, and of course, there's nothing but electrical wires going to the tail lights... I finally had to remove most of the carpeting (something i really hate to do on a new car) on the right wall of the trunk to locate the release pump which is closer to the tail light. One would think a thing like that would be made much more accessible. There's my gripe and some info for those who care to know.
  • maengomaengo Member Posts: 4
    Unless your fuel gauge was not working properly you should NEVER run out of gas.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    maengo - Scroll back to post #431 and you will see how fff_release got into that fix. :-)

    fff_release - glad you got it figured out and thanks for sharing the solution. What a pain! Good luck getting it resolved.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • myvwlemonmyvwlemon Member Posts: 14
    Go to http://www.myvwlemon.com
    40 registered users in the first month.
    90,000 hits the first month. Read problems with new VWs and my Jetta lemon.
  • myvwlemonmyvwlemon Member Posts: 14
    Just had my fuel door fixed. The fuel door would not close.
  • fff_releasefff_release Member Posts: 4
    read your short version of myvwlemon. #9 is my mistake too. Should have spent that extra $ for leather. Doing it off-the-market now will cost me $2000-$3000, not to mention they'll probably mess up the side airbags. So, we'll just have to deal with it now.
    Prospective buyers, what ever you do, don't go with cloth unless the material's changed since the '99 model. This type of cloth has the amazing ability to collect lint. I'm almost at the point where I'll ban all passengers wearing different colored clothing than the seat color.
  • britanymbritanym Member Posts: 1
    We bought our '99 Passat last Summer, and it has been an absolute nightmare! This car has been in the shop over and over and over again. The brakes make such a racket, it's not to be believed. I've had it in the Dealer's shop repeatedly and I get the same story many of you have had...'Oh, that's normal...they all do that', or 'Oh, that's the new brake material...you can stop faster with that'...hey, listen guy, I don't need to stop faster because I don't want to drive this lemmon at all. What can we do do??? This is incredible! Britanym@hotmail.com
  • anearly99anearly99 Member Posts: 2
    I have an early 99 Passat -- Barbie Corvette-sized outside right rearview mirror, 3 BIG rear seat headrests, amber front fender lights (on later 99s, the mirror size was increased and the headrest size decreased).

    The other day, I opened the left rear door and found that the apparently loose rear door moulding got caught in the front door and was nearly severed off. What's that worth for a 20 month old, 27,000 mile, out of warranty car? Another $150. Should VW absorb this cost? I think so. But I also think they owe me a right side mirror that's big enough to see out of. One of these days I'm going to hit someone! Maybe I should just pay the $300 asking price.

    Has anyone else experienced loose door mouldings?
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: rattling front passanger seat-please help (opus4) Thu 04 May '00 (06:43 PM)

    My 99 Passat GLX has developed a rattle coming
    from the passenger side seat. It rattles unless
    the road is glass smooth. Overwise, everything
    else worked well. I took it to the dealership,
    but they can't seem to figure the problem. Any
    ideas? Does anyone have this problem and how was
    it solved? Thanks.


    Anybody have any thoughts for opus4?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • ma68ma68 Member Posts: 1
    just bought a new 2000 passat GLS( 1.8T 4 cylinder) sdn with automatic trans couple of days ago. when test driving, i felt the acceleration is great. but i didnt want the leather pkg of that partucular car, the dealer showed me another one with cloth interior, i did not pull it on freeway, just made couple of turn on the drive way and found it's ok, and then made the deal after long time bargaining.

    after drving it for three days, i now feel the acceleration is not what i expected this car should give me if use the auto drive "D". pushing the gas paddle too much can feel a little bit shaking of engine. when using the "tiptronic" (12345), accelerates better. it becomes very powerful at high speed, say >40mph, goes realy smooth and fast.

    i used to drive V6 car, and i dont know much about the mechnics of car, and dont understand too much about the relation between acceleration and engine rotation speed, etc. is it because of the rotation speed is too low? or something elsel? or the 1.8T passat naturely has such problem.

    please contact me: ma.68@osu.edu. thank you.

    another question: do you think i should talk to the dealer to change for another one? i already paid the downpay, and sign the contract. but it's just three days so far.
  • myvwlemonmyvwlemon Member Posts: 14
    Post problems at www.myvwlemon.com!
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