2016 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

memorax · May 2016

Just bought a 2016 Honda Accord EX with Sensing for $25916 in NJ OTD including accessory package.

Vehicle cost including Dest - $23,288
Accessories - $300
Tax - $1651.16
Tire - $7.50
Reg&Title Fee - $301
Doc Fee - $369

Total = $25,916

roaming · May 2016

Shopping an EX with Sensing- no added accessories in Texas. The invoice with destination comes to 25,883 so I am targeting $2,500 below.

Am I leaving money on the table at 23,500?

Probably going lease to get there, MF .00028 (0down) , 56% RV

accord_exl · May 2016

Got a quote for accord Ex-L for 25,000 with destination + Tax + TTL. Is this a good deal. Or Can I ask the dealer lower the price more.

The sticker price dealer mentioned as 29505 with destination for Ex_L.

accord_exl · May 2016

brian125 said:

sda said:
With the Civic being so hot and availability relatively low, is it plausible to buy a more expensive Accord cheaper than the Civic? For example, can you buy an Accord EX-L less than a Civic Touring?
@sda- Good point.... Invoice price w/ destination for a 2016 EXL Accord is $27,059. In a lot of states I could buy this model between $1800 to 2700 below dealers invoice. With states like MA, MD , VA, CA, getting a Top price

The Civic Touring invoices at $25,443. I would assume not many states are going below invoice price yet. There is also no incentives or rebates. Civic pricing for buyers will be more favorable in the summer months right now sales are off the charts and supply is down.

Hi Brain,

Could you please let me know what is the invoice price and sticker price. Is the both are different ?

brian125 · May 2016

accord_exl

Civic touring invoice price w destination ( 835 ) = 25,443 ...MSRP = $27,335.

What state are you buying in ? What prices have you received so far on the Civic?

Your best coarse of action is to target 15, 20 dealers and on May 31st call and email each dealer telling each one.....................( I will buy Touring model for X price right know.) Invoice price may be the best you could do if supply is down and demand is high

icarshopping · May 2016

Hi, @accord_exl

If you are shopping in CA, I think it can go lower. The best offer I got this weekend so far is 2,600 below invoice, or 24,460 (including destination) + TTL for the EXL (in LA areas).

The invoice price is the price dealer supposedly pays to the manufacturer (but it doesn't include the special discounts or holdback the dealer gets) for the car and the sticker price is just the manufacturer suggested price (that is crazy high and no one actually pays).

The dealer likes to tell you how big of a discount you are getting from the sticker price which sounds huge but you only really know you are getting a good deal if you compare how much lower (esp during this time for an Accord) than the invoice you are paying.

Given the offer I got, I think you should reach out to as many dealers as you can, and probably target something better than 2600 below invoice.

Best of luck and report any offer/deal you got!

kishk · May 2016

Hi Brian,
Can you please let me know the dealers in MA that gives the top price? (BTW I am in the market for CR-V EX-L - asking the question here assuming that same dealers giving best possible quotes for Accord or CR-V). Any pointers/ref to get best price for CR-V are appreciated much - thanks.

ilovemyhonda9 · May 2016

kishk said:

Hi Brian, Can you please let me know the dealers in MA that gives the top price? (BTW I am in the market for CR-V EX-L - asking the question here assuming that same dealers giving best possible quotes for Accord or CR-V). Any pointers/ref to get best price for CR-V are appreciated much - thanks.

Hi! I just bought a Honda Accord LX for $19300 at Boch Honda in Norwood. They're having an excellent sale for Memorial Day weekend. $22319 was the lowest price we got on a CRV LX. They're really busy but had the best price out of all the dealerships we went to. I got an e-quote online before coming in and they honored the price

brian125 · May 2016

@kishk

Below is my list of Honda dealers to use for best deals in Boston . Some months one dealer can do better than others that's why you need to call every one on this list your willing to drive to.

Prime, Bernardi, Bosh Honda west , Bosh norwood, Honda gallery, Commonwealth, Weymouth, Herb Chambers, Honda cars of Boston, Peters Honda of Nashua , Rockingham , Hyannis

Target price on the CRV by may, 31st 1500 to 2k below invoice range with 2k below invoice being a top price.

Target price for Accords 2k to 3k below with a 3k below being a very best price.

Target price for Civics...... Invoice price . A model you want that's not on dealers lot means No leverage.

Honda cars of Boston , Peters, and Bosh should compete for your business if they have your model on lot

How you get price leverage on any of these dealers is buying last 2 days, last day of this month. I like to pit Weymouth against Herb Chambers they hate each other . Peters against Honda cars of Boston

brian125 · May 2016

May Buyers one word of advise

How you play this buying game is to get the upper hand and price leverage. Pitting one dealer against the next.

All this back and forth nonsense about x price and this price means nothing. At the end of this month you will have every dealers attention especially the dealers that need ending sales numbers. That's when the real negotiations start. Get your targeted dealers together 10, 15, 20, 30 .

On may 30th or 31 start your emails and calls to all targeted dealerships Internet mgrs. / dept. Negotiate your price on that day telling each dealer I buy right now for X- price and only that price will get my business . Once dealers agrees, counters, or says no, you move onto the next dealer . Any dealer that counters your offer tell them you will get back to them in 1 hour your calling X, Y, and Z dealerships unless they want the immediate sale.

I could call 20 dealers in 30 minutes time and have a sale immediately or 5 decent counter offers, 3 let me talk to my MGR offers, 2 you need to come down to the dealership. That's how easy a sale could go on any last day of any month.

To sum up in plan English your objective is to take your buying area and make your best possible deal on that last day. Don't worry what @brian125 is getting in NY or Joe in MD. Your area will dictate the best price from these dealers at the end. Make your best deal out of the lot or wait another month . That's how you know and gage the best price in your area. for that month. You need no one to tell you what you can or cant get You Know by direct calls and emails to each store. Supply and Demand drives this market

lunarsilver07 · May 2016

Been following this thread for a while and found it very helpful - thx all!

Finally got the 2016 Touring Sedan -- $32,400 OTD, no dealer-installed options. LA area, fwiw.

- Vehicle price (incl dest): 29,613
- Doc fee: 80
- Tax: 2,375
- DMV: 332
- Total OTD: 32,400

dr29 · May 2016

@lunarsilver07 Thanks for the detailed breakdown. Enjoy the ride!

kyfdx · May 2016

lunarsilver07 said:
Been following this thread for a while and found it very helpful - thx all!

Finally got the 2016 Touring Sedan -- $32,400 OTD, no dealer-installed options. LA area, fwiw.

- Vehicle price (incl dest): 29,613
- Doc fee: 80
- Tax: 2,375
- DMV: 332
- Total OTD: 32,400

Congrats!

accord_exl · May 2016

icarshopping said:
Hi, @accord_exl

If you are shopping in CA, I think it can go lower. The best offer I got this weekend so far is 2,600 below invoice, or 24,460 (including destination) + TTL for the EXL (in LA areas).

The invoice price is the price dealer supposedly pays to the manufacturer (but it doesn't include the special discounts or holdback the dealer gets) for the car and the sticker price is just the manufacturer suggested price (that is crazy high and no one actually pays).

The dealer likes to tell you how big of a discount you are getting from the sticker price which sounds huge but you only really know you are getting a good deal if you compare how much lower (esp during this time for an Accord) than the invoice you are paying.

Given the offer I got, I think you should reach out to as many dealers as you can, and probably target something better than 2600 below invoice.

Best of luck and report any offer/deal you got!

Hello,

I got the similar deal like you 24800 + Taxes + TTL from 2 dealers in Sacremento. They are not going beyond that price.

Shall I purchase to that price or can I negotiate more to come down. I am looking for black with black seats.

By the way what is the out of door price you have paid ?

icarshopping · May 2016

Hi @accord_exl
I think part of the discrepancy might come from the areas you were shopping in. It may be more cut throat in LA than in Sacramento.

Another reason is whether they feel like you were going to pull the trigger right there and then. If they don't feel like you were going to buy, they aren't going to give you their best possible price.

In my case, they knew I would be buying if the price were right because they made the offer while I was in the dealership. I told them that I would buy if they can do below invoice 3000 and at the end the best they could was 2600 below (so I didn't buy).

I think Brian's suggestion is exactly on point. Start sending inquiries out tomorrow but be very specific and show you are willing to buy: I would come and do the deal today if you can do say 2700 below invoice. They want to make an offer to someone who is serious in buying because they are afraid you are just gonna take their price and shop around. Tomorrow is also perfect because it's the 2nd last day of the month. If you can wait, the info I get from this thread is that end of next month is even better. It will also be the end of the 2nd quarter, more reason for them to report better numbers.

bjyuke · May 2016

kyfdx said:

Has the Invoice price for an EX-L with Navi and Sensing changed? I had a dealer list the Invoice price (including destination) as $29072.51. The dealer said Honda adjusts the invoice price periodically throughout the year. Is this true? and is this a correct Invoice price including Destination? Thank you I am in the San Francisco Bay Area
You can build your car using the Make/Model/Year tabs at the top of the page, and get the invoice price from Edmunds.

Has the Invoice price for an EX-L with Navi and Sensing changed? I had a dealer list the Invoice price (including destination) as $29072.51. The dealer said Honda adjusts the invoice price periodically throughout the year. Is this true? and is this a correct Invoice price including Destination? Thank you I am in the San Francisco Bay Area
You can build your car using the Make/Model/Year tabs at the top of the page, and get the invoice price from Edmunds.
Thanks KYFDX - I had done that, and found the Invoice Price listed as $28,884 for the EX-L w/NAVI and Sensing. So we have a discrepancy in the Invoice Price and I want to make sure I am negotiating from common ground. I guess I should ask each dealer for their Invoice Price to make sure we are negotiating from the same start point? Or should I just use $28884 as my reference point as I try to hit $3000 below Invoice? Has anyone ever heard of the invoice prices changing periodically?
Manufacturers do raise their prices mid-year, at times. I can't comment on the invoice prices that Edmunds gives you. You decide what invoice is, then make your offer in actual US Dollars. No need to ask the dealer for their invoice, or mention it at all. Ask for the price you want, and stick to it.

Thanks for everyone's help. We leased an accord EX-L with Navigation and Honda sensing agreeing on a sale price of $26,100 - Concord Honda. Serramonte Honda was advertising the same vehicle for $26,505. Both dealers are Sonic dealerships

kyfdx · May 2016

bjyuke said:

kyfdx said:

bjyuke said:

kyfdx said:

bjyuke said:
Has the Invoice price for an EX-L with Navi and Sensing changed? I had a dealer list the Invoice price (including destination) as $29072.51. The dealer said Honda adjusts the invoice price periodically throughout the year. Is this true? and is this a correct Invoice price including Destination? Thank you I am in the San Francisco Bay Area
You can build your car using the Make/Model/Year tabs at the top of the page, and get the invoice price from Edmunds.

kyfdx said:

bjyuke said:
Has the Invoice price for an EX-L with Navi and Sensing changed? I had a dealer list the Invoice price (including destination) as $29072.51. The dealer said Honda adjusts the invoice price periodically throughout the year. Is this true? and is this a correct Invoice price including Destination? Thank you I am in the San Francisco Bay Area
You can build your car using the Make/Model/Year tabs at the top of the page, and get the invoice price from Edmunds.
Thanks KYFDX - I had done that, and found the Invoice Price listed as $28,884 for the EX-L w/NAVI and Sensing. So we have a discrepancy in the Invoice Price and I want to make sure I am negotiating from common ground. I guess I should ask each dealer for their Invoice Price to make sure we are negotiating from the same start point? Or should I just use $28884 as my reference point as I try to hit $3000 below Invoice? Has anyone ever heard of the invoice prices changing periodically?
Manufacturers do raise their prices mid-year, at times. I can't comment on the invoice prices that Edmunds gives you.

You decide what invoice is, then make your offer in actual US Dollars. No need to ask the dealer for their invoice, or mention it at all. Ask for the price you want, and stick to it.

Thanks for everyone's help. We leased an accord EX-L with Navigation and Honda sensing agreeing on a sale price of $26,100 - Concord Honda. Serramonte Honda was advertising the same vehicle for $26,505. Both dealers are Sonic dealerships

Congrats!

accord_exl · May 2016

icarshopping said:
Hi @accord_exl
I think part of the discrepancy might come from the areas you were shopping in. It may be more cut throat in LA than in Sacramento.

Another reason is whether they feel like you were going to pull the trigger right there and then. If they don't feel like you were going to buy, they aren't going to give you their best possible price.

In my case, they knew I would be buying if the price were right because they made the offer while I was in the dealership. I told them that I would buy if they can do below invoice 3000 and at the end the best they could was 2600 below (so I didn't buy).

I think Brian's suggestion is exactly on point. Start sending inquiries out tomorrow but be very specific and show you are willing to buy: I would come and do the deal today if you can do say 2700 below invoice. They want to make an offer to someone who is serious in buying because they are afraid you are just gonna take their price and shop around. Tomorrow is also perfect because it's the 2nd last day of the month. If you can wait, the info I get from this thread is that end of next month is even better. It will also be the end of the 2nd quarter, more reason for them to report better numbers.

Would you mind if I ask you what is the invoice price they been offering you ?

mdhaus72 · May 2016

So here's my story. It ended up being more complex than I anticipated. I picked up my Modern Steel Metallic Touring Sedan this past Saturday:

Demand here for the Touring trim overall is insane. Color options are extremely limited. Throughout the past few weeks, all I could ever find were a couple in Crystal Black Pearl, one in silver, two in white that were not slated for delivery until much later, and a red one that was on back-order. One dealership had 3 in the modern steel that popped up one day on their website and when I called just a little bit later, one had already been sucked up by the GM and he wasn't willing to part with it, another was in the process of being bought already and the third hadn't arrived from the factory yet....the website had just populated it early.

One dealer told me that they could see one that was due to arrive in the next day or so at a local dealer and they told me they would attempt a trade. The other dealer refused to participate for whatever reason. So I decided to keep an eye on all of the inventories in the area to see if I could get a clue on which dealer had the modern steel vehicle coming in. Finally, I found it....it suddenly popped up on the site of a dealer about an hour away. I called and talked to a salesman and he couldn't find it in his system at all. But when he went back to check with the inventory manager, he was able to confirm that it had just arrived...but had not been prepped yet for sale. I told him I would take it, gave him a deposit and drove down the next day to grab it. I had to wait for a few hours while they finished their prepping process that morning.

When all was said and done (not including tax), I ended up paying $427 underneath the invoice price for the car and their dealer fees...some of which I negotiated down, but could not on all of them.

It's not the best deal that I have gotten overall.....But considering the market for these things and how much I wanted that particular color (my wife likes it the best), I certainly could have done much, much worse. At least I finished somewhere under invoice price....

So far, I love the car. It's an amazing piece of tech.

dr29 · May 2016

@brian125 I think I've done well on my deal, but sale is still pending. Dealership is two hours away, which is fine by me.

Any advice on making sure all my bases are covered before I leave to travel to the dealership tomorrow?

I've asked for a bill of sale on car expenses (base price, dest, doc fee, license, etc.), lease money factor and residual, and complete lease breakdown before I step outside my house. I also asked the Sales Manager to be CC'd on the email response so all figures are in the open with management. Also, I want mileage disclosed too.

As long as I get all that, my bases are covered before making my two hour drive to ink the deal, right?

Once the deal is sealed, I'll pay it forward and spill the beans.

brian125 · May 2016

Looks like you CYA. If mgr. wont give you breakdown in email conformation do not go there. You could give dealer a 500 deposit on your CC to show your a serious buyer tomm. Make sure you tell dealer not to affix any of his dealer name plates or decals on this vehicle. A license plate bracket is ok but nothing on car.

keep us posted..... good job

dr29 · May 2016

Thanks, bud! Your advice left throughout these forums over the years has been very helpful.

Thank you also to @kyfdx , @Michaell , @tonyg2016 and others to help fill in all the pieces of the puzzle. That includes everyone that posted their sales here too!

dr29 · May 2016

Ah! I see your edit, good call out on the advertising.

brian125 · May 2016

Tell dealer over the phone before you go No Decals

icarshopping · May 2016

Hi @accord_exl

The invoice price I looked up was 27059 but for some reason the one they pulled up was about $150-200 more (I forgot to write down exact figures).

To to figure out TTL, simply use the CA dmv website to input the price you are paying. And the two combined would be your OTD price.

accord_exl · May 2016

icarshopping said:
Hi @accord_exl

The invoice price I looked up was 27059 but for some reason the one they pulled up was about $150-200 more (I forgot to write down exact figures).

To to figure out TTL, simply use the CA dmv website to input the price you are paying. And the two combined would be your OTD price.

Here I could see the invoice price as 27322 in Sacramento. May be it varies based on the county or zip code. When ever I am asking quote to any dealer first they are asking my zip code.

accord_exl · May 2016

Hi All,

I just followed the advise provided by brain. Today was very hectic and spent more than 6 hours in front of the system and phone asking the quotes to finalize the deal.

I have approached 8+ dealers and finally settled down a figure of 27000-27300 which yet be finalized tomorrow OTD. For this price dealer is saying not going to give the pro pack (Tray,Wheel Locks and Mud guards). So what you guys say can I pull the trigger at 27k price though they are not offering me this pro pack. This is for 2016 accord ExL 4 cyclinder without sensing and navigation.

Any advise you experts can provide will be greatly appreciated?

icarshopping · May 2016

I think the invoice sounds like the one I got. It probably includes the regional fee.

They need your zip to calculate the TTL because each city/county may have a different tax rate and this is solely dependent on where you live (and would be the same for whichever dealer you choose).

If the 27000 is the best you could get, I'd say go for it. Personally I don't like dealer add on's like the pro pack so go without it if they aren't important to you.

Best of luck and report back on final numbers!

dr29 · May 2016

Just got home from picking up the new Accord Sedan EX-L V6. Quite a lucky deal; details and lessons learned below. I started with little experience in car-buying strategies two weeks ago and nailed this deal today. I was already very comfortable with the purchasing and leasing aspects though.

Car: 2016 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 without Nav/Sensing. No addons
State: Ohio
MSRP: $30,745 + $835 = $31,580 (with $835 destination charge)
Invoice: $28,118 (w/o destination charge)
My Target Price: $26,000 which includes destination of $835

Deal made:
Base w/o destination: $25,239
Base plus dest: $26,074
Doc fee: $250
License/Reg: $80 (dealer paid this as well as first month's payment)

Lease App Fee: $595
Adjusted Cap Cost: $27,716.13 (above costs plus sales tax of $796.67, but without rent charge of $448.03. Complicated to explain how sales tax and rent charge are derived; reference webpages dedicated to these subjects.)

Sales Tax 7.5%
MF 0.00028 (sign and drive - no money down at all)
Residual 53% ($16,737.40 / 15k/yr)

$317 a month x 35 months (15k year)

Lease Info:
Did a lease for 15k miles a year for 36 months @ $317 a month. Everything rolled into the lease, zero down (sign and drive). Dealer paid my first payment and registration fee ($80); not sure if that's normal or not. It was an extra $397.41 saved off the $26,074.

Amount Saved:
$2,879 below invoice plus first payment & registration (additional $397.41 off); didn't have to negotiate, they took my buy now offer. I emailed at 4pm on Memorial Day with a buy now price of $26,000 (2nd to last day of month, straight from the brian125 playbook). They accepted before 5pm. No games, great service. Blew my mind how easy it was.

What I learned:
The other dealers that responded were only $500 under invoice on memorial day without negotiating. Today, some went to $1000 under invoice without negotiating. It looked like it was going to be a lot of negotiating until I got halfway through my list of dealers....

So, I didn't get to sharpen my negotiating skills, but here's what I learned:

It pays to make a big spreadsheet with all your cars/dealers/sales managers within 200 miles. At 125 miles out, I found my dealer that wanted to deal without any fuss.

I didn't know where to set my target price, other than using the high watermark of someone else's deal. Here's what I experimented with and used:

Potential Savings:
$1250 Dealer Cash
$500 Lease Cash
$250 Doc Fee
$615 Holdback
__________________Total Known Savings:
$2,615

I found that earlier in the year other forum users within my area had gotten around $2500/$2600 below invoice on my desired trim within the last 4-5 months. See my research here and here.

I think the $500 lease cash is a recent incentive as of May (I may be horribly wrong on that assumption). So, if others didn't have that lease cash in their deals, I figured I could add it on top of what they had received off and still make a deal. That's how I set my 'buy now' price and it worked in this particular case.

I knew this was aggressive (possibly off-putting to dealers), but I'm not afraid to be bold during my price discovery.

It's a fine line and is more of an art than science. I probably closed a lot of doors, but opened a nice one as well. Tricky stuff.

Know your trim... EX-L V6s with desirable colors (interior and exterior) are in short supply compared to 4 cylinder trims. Finding a dealer that had four of same interior and exterior probably played a factor in getting my price (i.e. a mini oversupply, relatively speaking).

I did have dealers tell me that my 'buy now' price would have lost them $1100. You know how that goes.

It's critical you understand your leverage by using timing; brian125 covers it very well. I know Brian is 100% correct on this because I had a salesman begging me to close on a deal on the 31st of Jan in 2015, I just didn't understand why at the time. I was curious if lease rates were gonna get better in Feb and he was begging me to sign before the 1st, lol!

I hope this helps someone in the future. I didn't want to spill the beans until now because I was waiting for a rug pull, which never happened. The deal is now inked. Woot!

A lot of these ideas we're assembled from the 'Liked' comments of @brian125 . Currently, there are around 285ish comments. It's about 4-8 hours of reading, but these archives have invaluable advice on drafting email templates, timing, how to pit dealers against each other, etc..

Good luck to you on your next deals and thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge and sales data.

Remember, if these conversations help you, pay it forward and post your deals too.

wpbguy2016 · May 2016

Hiya
I live in West Palm Beach FL and am going to purchase a 2016 Honda Accord LX or Sport Edition -- still not sure.
I am not good at negotiating price for a car, so I was hoping someone here who is knowledgeable on the matter might give me a good out the door price to aim for.
I'll pay by check rather than finance -- I am not sure if that helps or hurts me, but why pay interest if not necessary.
Thanks in advance

dr29 · May 2016

Continuation from above: For those that don't want to read all 285 likes of @brian125, I've attached what I curated that I thought was helpful and interesting as I went through each and every one of his 285 'Liked' comments. All you have to do is read them and think about how your going to put that knowledge to use. I also referenced it when I kicked off my mass email campaign to dealers. See bottom of post for the text file.

It ain't pretty, but at least I've curated what I think are the most valuable strategies that he has shared.

Seriously, this stuff is gold. Read it. It saved me thousands of dollars.

brian125 · June 2016

dr29

Hey Tks and real good job on your sale. If you read some of my over 4100 comments posted here thru out the Edmunds forums you will learn how to make your best possible car deal.

Pay it forward folks ............................................... Good job @dr29

accord_exl · June 2016

Got a accord Ex L for 26,690 OTD. I can say it is lesser than that since the dealer is added some Zurich coating. Which they had shown in invoice like $189 for coating and $189 for one year protection. So if I exclude this it is 26310. Had an issue with the financing and vehicle is not yet in my hands. Will post the complete details once the get the vehicle. Thanks to all.

stever · June 2016

A reporter is looking to speak with someone over the age of 50 who recently purchased a new vehicle within the last six months. If you're willing to assist, please reach out to pr@edmunds.com by June 2, 2016.

carperso · June 2016

brian125 said:
Looks like you CYA. If mgr. wont give you breakdown in email conformation do not go there. You could give dealer a 500 deposit on your CC to show your a serious buyer tomm. Make sure you tell dealer not to affix any of his dealer name plates or decals on this vehicle. A license plate bracket is ok but nothing on car.

keep us posted..... good job

What is the advantage of the deposit on a credit card. Is it so if the dealership does not honor the price or attempts a bait and switch, We could call the bank?

brian125 · June 2016

carperso

The Advantage giving a credit card deposit is dealer has to give you a full breakdown of the bill of sale now that he is pre charging you to hold vehicle. A email conformation is fine with total OTD pricing. Where as a verbal agreement dealer may get amnesia when you walk in . Dealers in close range just drive there.

A lot of my many auto sales are done over the phone where I have the mgr. send ( fax ) me a Buyers order ( bill of sale) of my purchase . I review it, sign the contract holding with a CC deposit till I get down to that store. New buyers, 1st timers are best suited sticking to a area and target price making there best deal.

A fax sale transaction is more complicated especially if your credit is bad and you need financing thru dealer.

Living on the East coast NY gives me advantages of using 8 to 10 states where I could pick a region where the vehicle I'm looking for cost thousands less than my area. That is when I buy vehicle over phone w/ CC deposit.
Dealers that cant handle this are removed off my targeted list. Incompetent sales folks get AXED Immediately.

I say this all the time..... if you could save 500 to 1500 dollars for a days work it might be worth it to travel 1, 2, or 3 hours into a boarding state.

icarshopping · June 2016

Hi @brian125

I am wondering how doc fee and regional fee factor into the calculation for determining what your target price might be?

For example, the EXL I am looking for has the invoice price of 27059 (including destination). But I think in California Honda appears to add a regional fee of 250 in the invoice and also charge a doc fee of 80.

What I am wondering is, when people are calculating the price they get below invoice price, are these two fees ignored? (Obvious this isn't as much a concern when comparing prices within the same state but how to compare prices with others who may have a different regional and doc fees?). Thank you!

brian125 · June 2016

Every state bears a different OTD number ( State tax , DMV fees , doc fee's, tire disposal fee , Internet charge, etc. )

Invoice price and destination fee are same across the board and country . That's how we judge every deal on a whole in this forum.

If your buying in CA and no dealer removes the AD fee's then your vehicle purchase gets that tacked on at the end of the total deal. Nothing you could do. Unless you buy out of state.

Not all CA Honda dealers charge the Ad fee. Everything can be negotiated. Suckers usually pay that charge

EXample

Hey Santa Monica Honda I will buy this vehicle from you today for X price. I refuse to pay Honda's ad fee that is a dealer breaker. Will you remove that fee for a immediate sale. No . Okay if you change your mind here is my number, email etc. I'm offering Coasta and AutoNation the same deal today .

On Doc fees : CA are only 80 dollars no big deal.. But in states were there $199 to 899

know every dealers doc fee charge before making a offer. This helps make that charge a wash on the bill of sale. Simply minus the doc fee charge , Minus dealers Hold-back, Minus and rebates / Cash incentives, Minus Ad fees in states they wont remove to get a good target price. Or just ask me

durgun · June 2016

memorax said:
Just bought a 2016 Honda Accord EX with Sensing for $25916 in NJ OTD including accessory package.

Vehicle cost including Dest - $23,288
Accessories - $300
Tax - $1651.16
Tire - $7.50
Reg&Title Fee - $301
Doc Fee - $369

Total = $25,916

Can you tell me which dealer in NJ? I am in the market in NY/NJ area.

icarshopping · June 2016

Thank you @brian125. My plan is to buy at the end of this month and I am sure I will have more questions!

carperso · June 2016

brian125 said:
carperso

The Advantage giving a credit card deposit is dealer has to give you a full breakdown of the bill of sale now that he is pre charging you to hold vehicle. A email conformation is fine with total OTD pricing. Where as a verbal agreement dealer may get amnesia when you walk in . Dealers in close range just drive there.

A lot of my many auto sales are done over the phone where I have the mgr. send ( fax ) me a Buyers order ( bill of sale) of my purchase . I review it, sign the contract holding with a CC deposit till I get down to that store. New buyers, 1st timers are best suited sticking to a area and target price making there best deal.

A fax sale transaction is more complicated especially if your credit is bad and you need financing thru dealer.

Living on the East coast NY gives me advantages of using 8 to 10 states where I could pick a region where the vehicle I'm looking for cost thousands less than my area. That is when I buy vehicle over phone w/ CC deposit.
Dealers that cant handle this are removed off my targeted list. Incompetent sales folks get AXED Immediately.

I say this all the time..... if you could save 500 to 1500 dollars for a days work it might be worth it to travel 1, 2, or 3 hours into a boarding state.

Wow. This is the single best advice i received on these forums. Last time when i was car shopping, I had difficulty in getting the dealers to commit to their prices in email.

carhunter_9999 · June 2016

I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance

Michaell · June 2016

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance

.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).

carhunter_9999 · June 2016

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).

Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.

Michaell · June 2016

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).
Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.

So what is the adjusted cap cost?

carhunter_9999 · June 2016

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).
Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.
So what is the adjusted cap cost?

i have no idea what that would be. Do i need to ask the dealer or use a formula kind of thing to get it from the numbers that were provided

Michaell · June 2016

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).
Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.
So what is the adjusted cap cost?
i have no idea what that would be. Do i need to ask the dealer or use a formula kind of thing to get it from the numbers that were provided

Adjusted cap cost is the selling price plus any taxes and fees you add it less any down payment you make. The dealer should be able to provide that number for you.

carhunter_9999 · June 2016

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).
Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.
So what is the adjusted cap cost?
i have no idea what that would be. Do i need to ask the dealer or use a formula kind of thing to get it from the numbers that were provided
Adjusted cap cost is the selling price plus any taxes and fees you add it less any down payment you make. The dealer should be able to provide that number for you.

Then i think we got those..if you see my intial post..for the EX the adjusted Cap cost is 24401.13 + 776.43 + 400.75 + 75 = $25653.31

and for the EX-L it is 26632.28 + 878.34 + 426.75 + 75 = 28012.37

hope this is correct

Michaell · June 2016

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:

Michaell said:

carhunter_9999 said:
I am looking to lease an EX/EX-L and got this following quote from a dealer..can someone please let me know how is it looking? Compared to the deal dr29 got for EX-L V6 my quote seems to be bit higher

2016 Accord EX

MSRP: $27,215.00
Sale Price: $24401.13 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $776.43
Title and License: $400.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $329.00

2016 Accord EX-L

MSRP: $29,505.00
Sale Price: $26,632.28 (price the lease payment is based off)
Tax; $878.34
Title and License; $426.75
Documentation fee: $75.00

Monthly Payment on a 3yr/45k lease: $369.00

Both of these lease quotes are based on zero due at signing.

Residual value ( the cost to purchase at lease end)

2016 Accord EX; $14,968.25

2016 Accord EX-L: $15,932.70

Thanks in advance
.00028 MF for sign and drive; .00038 if you pay the tax and fees up front.

Are you doing a true 'sign and drive'? If so, then you have to add the tax and fees to the selling price to get the adjusted cap cost.

36/15 residuals are 55% (EX) or 54% (EX-L).
Mike,

Yes i am doing a 0 down lease. $329/month for EX and $369/month for EX-L.
So what is the adjusted cap cost?
i have no idea what that would be. Do i need to ask the dealer or use a formula kind of thing to get it from the numbers that were provided
Adjusted cap cost is the selling price plus any taxes and fees you add it less any down payment you make. The dealer should be able to provide that number for you.
Then i think we got those..if you see my intial post..for the EX the adjusted Cap cost is 24401.13 + 776.43 + 400.75 + 75 = $25653.31

and for the EX-L it is 26632.28 + 878.34 + 426.75 + 75 = 28012.37

hope this is correct

Then for the EX, I get a payment of $308/mo; for the EX-L, $340/mo.

I would confirm both the adjusted cap cost and the MF that the dealer is using in their calculations.

msdrea03 · June 2016

@brian125 hi I should've done more research because I thought 2k off msrp is what I should be pushing for. I live in nyc...looked at honda accord v6 exl 2016 today and msrp was 31580. Dealer and I agreed on 28700 with dest. Taxes title not included...so otd was 31+...they didn't have my car in stock and had to order it. No financing was done yet because car wasnt there and they said they can't discuss finance options until car is on lot. So I left a 1k deposit which they said was minimum because they had to order the car. Now I feel like I'm over paying and want my deposit back and renegotiate or start over somewhere else. They said if finance options wasn't agreeable money is refundable. Any idea if mo ey is truly refundable at this point since I feel like I'm over paying? I am truly only getting like 300 below invoice!

2016 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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