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Ford Escape Hybrid Battery Pack Questions

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Comments

  • highrev2highrev2 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry for the loss unaccept1able. It is unfortunate that you owe that much after four years.

    Might I suggest closing on the house, then telling the car finance people to come get their car (as not to wreck your credit until you have the house).

    Then you might have to get a bike to ride to work, much greener way of getting there.
  • aeromech1aeromech1 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    The following is a "how to" on changing the battery fans in a 2005 FEH. The fans ARE NOT under the battery warranty at this time. The kit that was purchased from Ford is 5M6Z-10C659-A. The price is around $250 for both fans.

    Here's the narrative:

    My buddy Darrin owns a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid. Recently, his wife experienced an error message while driving that ultimately lead to a fault with the battery cooling fans in the rear of the vehicle. These two fans actually live inside the large (220 pound) battery pack under the rear cargo floor. For this vehicle the fans are not under the battery warranty and the dealer wanted more than $800 to replace them. Darrin and I decided to give it a try ourselves. The fans cost Darrin around $250 from the dealership and the part number for the replacement kit is: 5M6Z-10C659-A. Inside the kit you get the two fans, some ty-raps, and a couple other small items. Detailed instructions are also included. We read the instructions but ultimately didn't follow them word for word.

    We saw that the instructions called for removing the battery assy from the vehicle but we did find a way that the battery fans could be replaced without taking the whole assy out.

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    Notice the top of the battery. It has two separate top covers. The rear cover is above the two fans and can be removed with the battery in the vehicle. The first thing you will want to do is turn the orange switch to the off position which disables the battery power. Then you can lift straight up on the switch now and rotate it further CCW to the shipping position.

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    There is an exhaust duct on the aft left side of the battery that needs to be removed before the rear cover comes off.

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    Now you'll need to remove several self tapping screws from the top rear cover. They are T30 tamper resistant torx screws

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    Once you get the top rear cover off you'll find that it is attached by two grounding cables. Remove these so that you have better access.

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    Now you should see that two fans and their top cover. Remove the top cover from the fans.

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    The two fans are mounted the same on each side. You'll find 4 nuts holding them down. Remove the nuts with a 10mm socket. Looking at the forward part of the fan you'll see a thin top cover held down by two small self tapping screws. Remove this cover. Cut several ty-raps securing the wires and then disconnect the quick plug for the fan. Each fan also has a green ground wire you'll want to remove as well.

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    Now, here's the tricky part (it's not that bad). You're at the point where you want to pull the fans out but they won't come aft because in front of the fan exhaust is a 4 inch tall black plastic stanchion that supports the top lid. Simply grab the stanchion with some channel lock pliers and pull it loose to get it out of the way.

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    The fans should now come out of the battery assembly. Installation is the reverse. If you need help or have more questions you can email me at aeromech@aol.com
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "The following is a "how to" on changing the battery fans in a 2005 FEH. The fans ARE NOT under the battery warranty at this time. "

    The fans ARE covered under the hybrid warranty. Ford dealers were inputting the wrong codes for the repair, and it was coming up as unauthorized. In fact, Ford lists the fans as a part of the battery pack, and their manuals say to treat them as one item. When that is input into the Ford system, it comes up as a covered item. I believe that Ford has updated the information to dealers, but I have some doubts; they would rather have the customer pay than to cover the repair. Anyway, if the dealer input the battery pack (which includes the fan), then it was covered, if they just listed the fan assembly, it was not covered.
  • chartierpwchartierpw Member Posts: 1
    Not sure if this message is read by many, but I used these instructions to replace the fans in my 2005 Escape Hybrid (with 276,000 miles on it) and they were 99.9% accurate! The only issue I found is the removal of the self taping screws on the fan shrouds. The instructions don't make it clear that you remove those screws AFTER you remove the fans out of the battery pack, other than that, great instructions! kudos to kratekin for the great detail! Thank you, my Escape is now operating at peak efficiency again!
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    edited August 2013
    Thanks to stevedebi for their great posting. Also to chartierpw.
    FORD will give you a diagnostic saying your fans need work, but watch out.

    We started a road trip and the STOP SAFELY message appeared. We'd wait a while and restart and drive like 20 miles and it would reappear. We turned around and limped back home...about ~20-30~ miles each time we let it rest for a while and restarted.

    I slightly suspected maybe it was a water cooling/pumping problem...due to touching some rubber hoses under the hood. Anyhow, we got him home and morning of next day I drove it to Dealer (with no incident).
    The gave me report that we needed water pump and fans needed replace.

    The estimate was astounding! $1,400.00 I couldn't believe it. I took the vehicle home and did some internet research. Found in another hybrid forum discussions about this phenomena and made decision that the lack of coolant caused system to overheat, thus I think the computer listed cooling fans not working - replace.

    Made several attempts to try and get the fans performed under warranty - no dice. Like above, the computer does not want to recognize the fans as Hybrid unique. (but they are really).

    Well, I bought the water pump ($125) and installed it. It is an electric pump unit and bolts on to body under the radiator. A 12 yr. old could replace it with proper tools.

    After replacing h2O pump everything has been okay. I hear the fans whirr and we have had no more STOP SAFELY messages for a year and a half since then. Everything seems to be okay, even in these hot summers.

    Ford Service people should be reminded about the post above this. The fans are inside the Hybrid Component (battery pack) and are suppose to be covered, but it's like pulling teeth to convince a Service Dept. whose never come across how to look it up properly. They think the computer is always right.
  • david_gadavid_ga Member Posts: 1
    Thanks aeromech1! That saved me a lot of $$ (about $800) on Ford labor. I've now replaced all the battery cooling componets I can think of. They include:

    1) Electric coolant pump (by radiator)
    2) The cooling fans (thanks for the pics)
    3) The cooling door actuator (known as blend door actuator)

    If anyone else needs to change the door actuator. Here are the steps (sorry forgot pics):
    a) Pop off the lower rear hatch plastic (no screws, just pull up)
    b) Pry the driver rear plastic towards the inside (no screws, just pull)
    c) Use block to hold plastic covers back

    You'll need a 7/32" or 5.5mm wrench to get to the small screw in the back (there are 3 altogether). The last one (top left, towards the exterior) is tricky, not really enough room to work.

    Anyway, once screws are out, pull the actuator motor out (again, tight squeeze but it will come out). The white keyed plastic lever will fall out, this is OK. Now, here are the 2 "tricks" to get it back together.
    1) Turn interior positioner fully counter-clockwise with screwdriver
    2) Reposition the white lever in the down position (about 8 oclock) against the positioner. TRICK: Use a small piece of scotch tape to hold it

    Now you'll be able to put it back together. Without the tape to temporarily hold it in place, it will never work.
  • pooch66pooch66 Member Posts: 1
    CARB stands for California Air Resources Board and is obviously only California.
  • fredfarquatzfredfarquatz Member Posts: 1
    OK. I want to thank all of the posts here. It is now 2016 and I have a 2007 Escape Hybrid. 2 years ago I purchased this vehicle at a very discounted price because of the "wrench" trouble light. This was fixed for about $25 plus a couple hours of my labor to replace the blend door. A few months ago I started to notice reduced MPG and occasionally really sluggish response from a full stop. Using Scangauge II the DTC of P0A81 showed up. I replaced both fans in the HV Traction Battery compartment per aeromech1's instructions and everything is now great!! The replacement took me about 2 hours without removing the entire battery per aeromech1's instructions.
  • ncken828ncken828 Member Posts: 1
    My 2008 Hybrid battery is dying at 55,000 miles. I drove in L for a month to see if I could get it to charge better. These batteries are a bunch of cells in tubes. Some of the tubes fail. My advice DO NOT BUY A FORD HYBRID of any type. The batteries are sub standard and Ford will not stand behind them. Mine ran out on time. (8 years). Ford knows the batteries will fail and are ignoring the problem. Other hybrids are getting 10+ years and over 250,0009 miles on their batteries. If you have a Ford Hybrid you are a guinea pig for their battery experiments and on your own. Make sure you take your dog with you when you drive your FORD. That way you will have company when you have to walk home.
  • GreenbugGreenbug Member Posts: 4
    My 2005 is still good with 152000 miles on it.
  • DGDougDGDoug Member Posts: 1
    Not sure anyone is watching this thread anymore, but does anyone know if the hybrid warranty transfers to any owner? I'm the second owner. I have 90K miles, but it's a 2006, so I'm guessing I'm out of luck as it appears my hybrid battery is not dead, but possibly going. It still provides the assist most of the time, but rarely goes into EV mode when stopped or coasting slowly.
  • phil99phil99 Member Posts: 2
    all this is nice... So, after 2 weeks playing with the dealer, he want to steal $11,000. to replace traction battery.
    I got a salvage battery and installed. no difference in function of ford 2009 escape. I am learning. Anyone know is there a procedure to enable battery modules. It had a click when i first moved fuse block to lock/unlock... but not now... charge traction battery??? 12/hv invertere???
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,747
    This is one of the greatest concerns about hybrid cars and EV's, people trying to work on them without first establishing that they have proper training, tooling and PPE. It's actually funny some times when licensed electricians join a conversation with professional automotive technicians about these cars and they inquire about "who certified us" to work with these high voltage systems. For the most part the design of the systems makes working with them very safe since they have fail-safes that shut down the HV system if any faults are detected, but there are still potential dangers especially when a fail safe is tampered with or has a failure that prevents HV shutdown.

    To even try to help you the first things that I would need to know is what are you using for service information? What scan tool are you using (be very specific here). Do you have proper PPE? (1000v gloves, face shield etc) Do you have a class III voltmeter and leads (1000v range and shielding) Have you had formal training for working with hybrid systems? How much real experience do you have as a technician?

    The O.E. replacement battery is quite expensive. ($9176.99) There are cheaper alternatives but they often fall short of consumers expectations for quality and longevity so there is little to be gained for the dealer to try to go that route and serious potential to lose if they tried, so they usually just don't do anything but the O.E. battery pack. That doesn't make them thieves, it shows that they have learned from experience. https://www.oemford.parts/oem-parts/ford-drive-motor-battery-pack-9m6z10b759d?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9YmF0dGVyeSZsPTkmbj1TZWFyY2ggUmVzdWx0cyZhPWZvcmQmbz1lc2NhcGUmeT0yMDA5JnQ9aHlicmlkJmU9Mi01bC1sNC1lbGVjdHJpYy1nYXM=

    There are some things that I can help you with, but specific points that may not be suitable for you to go beyond. As long as we don't venture into any of the higher risk tasks I can offer some help. What exactly is the vehicle doing/not doing? What codes are being set in which modules?


  • phil99phil99 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, great, stay safe. i'm a doit yourselfer. trained electronic tech from the 60's thru the 90's. base and mobile radios. hivolts px supplies. learning as i go. So, I have replaced my ford escape hybrid battery (2009). i got wrench and safety triangle on dash screen. i can now get into (dealer) customer test mode on dash screen. have continuing msg of stop safely now... and low tire pressure (tires are good).
    A dealer had the engine running but after 15 minutes it stopped ( i was told ).
    collision disable switch was off (out). service disk (pdf) i bought show connectors (C4227a,b,c) to trace wiring, but they are not there (@driver wall @battery a/c).... any help do i need FORD main frame service computer?????
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