Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

colorado_kid · February 2004

Yeah, I agree that I thought it was a belt. The last time it was in was for the 40K maintenance, where my mechanic checked the main serp belt and said there isn't anything to adjust and that it looked fine. I am going to make another run at that thought though. Thanks

callaocrusher · February 2004

I have a 2001 1.8T w/ ~105k miles on it. For the past ~10k miles it would shake and jump if I simply jumped in the car and didn't let it warm up. So since when I start it, it'll idle around 1,200 rpms then drop to 800 and I'm good to go. In the past few weeks it's been extremely cold here and it will sometimes drop down to 600 rpms and simply cut off on me. Someone told me that it was the idle air bypass, basically controlled by the computer. Is this true, does this sound right? Is it b/c of the cold or a coincidence? Is it damaging my car and is there a way to fix it if so? Thanks! T

mn_pat · February 2004

sometimes, it seems like mostly when it very cold out I get squeaking from the HVAC fan. Luckily it dosent squeak on all speeds, but still its very irrating My questions is; Is there a way to lubricate the fan or is there some other easy/cheap fix?

Thanks...

mn_pat · February 2004

check out this link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=33596&item=2458314446

I dont see how this can be true, or if it is true it must be bad for you car. If I could add a few extra hp for $12 i'd do it if it wouldnt damage my car.

I have a 98 jetta gl 5sp

wsommariva · February 2004

Mine is hanging also. Cracked down the middle. I need to replace it. I think it's about $40. Simple to replace if you have ramps. You might need screws and clips, but you can get them at Home Depot, etc. The steel replacement sounds like a good idea. Just running over one large chunk of ice and you'll need a new pan.

alcan · February 2004

Can you say "Mickey Mouse 5 cent resistor?"
It's a cheap, simple 1/4 watt resistor which plugs into the harness connector for the air intake temp or coolant temp sensor. Makes the engine control computer think the car's running in Antarctica, and over-fuels the engine. Wait till you see your gas mileage afterwards. Then there's the possibility of long term engine damage due to excess fuel washing the cylinder walls, oil dilution......

bpeebles · February 2004

I can concour with alcan. Anyone who buys a 5cent resister for $2 deserves what they get.

If you REALLY want to do it yourself... do some more research and with $2 of Radio-shack parts, you can put together somthing better than that silly thing.

If you are REALLY looking for some cheap power. Anyone with the turbocharged engine (TDI or 1.8T) has options that can really improve power with little impact to MPG. (often even BETTER MPG.)

rav89d · February 2004

I have a 99 Jetta w/ 100,000 mile. My Catalytic converted needs to be replaced - big expense. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone have any insite.

mn_pat · February 2004

Hahaha, thanks. If it was really that cheap and easy and non-damaging everyone would do it. I'll file that one in the "to good to be true" folder

alcan · February 2004

We, it is cheap and easy, it's just that the net result is less than desirable. If any of the gizmos and gimmicks worked, the vehicle manufacturers would already have them installed.

jtrujillo86 · February 2004

My manager owns a 99' Jetta (old body style) with the 2.0 engine. At 96K miles she had her cat replaced. She got a good deal on it buy purchasing it from allcatalyticconverters.com and had it installed at Midas. I would definitely do the same thing if I were you. I think all together, labor and parts, she spent only $200.00.

Jeremy

bpeebles · February 2004

QUESTION: What are the symptoms of a bad catylitic converter ?

Does it have a hole in it and is leaking?
Is it failing some kind of exhaust sniffer test?

The reason I am curious is because I have many vehicles (mostly VWs) travel over 130K miles with no issues with the cat converter. Everyting else in the exhaust was replaced many times... but the original Cat was never replaced.

fitzinlee · February 2004

I need a cheap, but reliable car for school. I have an '01 Audi A4 now, but I need to sell that:(
I drove the above mentioned Jetta today, but noticed two things:
1. CV-Joints (both sides I think) are in rough shape, and;
2. Gearshift is mushy...doesn't give me that feel-good engage if you know what I mean. Is it a clutch issue?
The dealership wants $2500 for it (137K)......so I'm wondering what to expect for repair costs - Any experience here?

bpeebles · February 2004

(fitzinlee) I base the below coments on the assumption you are looking for the LEAST EXPENSIVE transportaion. (while still maintaing some reliability.)

Many years experience tells me that it is not worth the labor to replace just A CV joint or two... the others have the same milage on them and will fail soon. It is a better finantial decesion to just replace each driveshaft. A quick search for driveshafts on the web tells me that they are around $220 each side.

If you choose to have a CV joint replaced... you will pay less for parts but MUCH MORE for labor. It is far easier for a mechanic to just bolt in a fresh driveshaft. Your money is going into PARTS YOU WILL USE instead of the mechanics pocket.

As for the shifting... there is no way to tell how the clutch was treated in its previous life. Personally, I would either leave it alone or select another vehicle.

You may be able to get the shifting feel you expect by having the shift linkage adjusted. There are some plastic "shims" that tend to wear out and for $20 can do wonders to the shifting feel.

I hope this helps you out...

jtrujillo86 · February 2004

The first sign of a bad cat on her Jetta was the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). The other was a nasty rattle when going over the slightest bump or pothole. Basically, the insides of the kitty were coming apart and rattling around inside the housing, not doing their job (obviously).

If you have a MIL, get it checked out. It will throw codes indicating that the cat is bad.

Jeremy

pop18t · February 2004

Please help me, if you can:

I've noticed, very recently, that my car is using gas at a much higher rate than it used to. Normally I could get 28-30 mpg. Now I am looking at 24-27. I drive about 50% highway and 50% city. My commute is 7.7 miles one way.

The only difference would be that I spend time letting the car idle and warm up now that the weather is so cold. But I can't imagine the minute or so I spend warming up the car (just enough to get the tachometer to drop below 1000) would cause such a drop in fuel efficiency.

Has anyone else experienced this?

What could be the cause?

I looked under the hood to see if a hose burst but I saw no sign of leaking. I doubt it is a leak in the fuel tank since I would be leaving fuel puddles. All the fluids are fine otherwise. Oil consumption is negligible/normal. The car is not making any noises at all to hint to some problem. If I wasn't monitoring my fuel economy I would never know there was a problem.

ruking1 · February 2004

First of all fuel consumption goes up during cold weather, all things being equal. Second the proper way is to turn on the engine and go. If you let the engine idle for a min or two, not a big deal, but if you do it 7 days a week, pretty soon you are talking about 15 mins of idle time.

balticjetta18t · February 2004

The winter habits are of course the key. My commute with the same engine and tranny in winter only drop about 1.5 mpg's at the most. My commute is 15 miles 75% hwy and 25% city.
It is not good practice to start a car with fuel injection and let sit and idle only to warm up. It is bad in the long run for the motor. Carburetor equipped engines of the academic times are a different story. Your 7-8 mile commute factors into the lower mileage as the car still has just finished warming up when you get to work and shut it down.
Most new car owner's manuals recommend to start car and drive easily until warmed up. Open your owners book to see.

yoyo2004 · February 2004

I had little luck with my Jetta, since 2002 I had the following problems:
1. Cognition coil recall
2. Automatic windows malfunction recall
3. Water leak from the release lever for engine hood
4. Engine coolant light on due to circuit problem
5. MIL light on for no specific reason and
6. Fuel gauge goes to half-way after up/down hill and resume usual position only after 10-20 minutes even with tank full
7. Selector lever display will be all highlighted and can't switch gears unless restarting the car

I wondered if anyone has encountered problem #7 and found any reason behind this malfunction. The dealer can't find anything so far.

I used to like my car but now I am a little scared driving it, especially I commute 60 miles everyday on the highway. I wondered if I should exchange for another car if 2002 Jetta 1.8T are really of bad quality.

fish8 · February 2004

I have a 2002 Jetta with the 2.0 (Manual) and have experienced 0 mechanical problems. Besides oil consumption issues (which have been resolved)the 2.0 is a good solid engine. The 1.8 had the coil problems and the infamous window regulator problems.

pop18t · February 2004

ruking and Ronnie,

Thanks for your advice. However, I am well aware of the owner's manual stating that the engine does not need to be warmed up. I don't think that applies to winter driving. I just called my dealership and they told me to let my car warm up first. I don't know anyone who does not let their fuel injected car warm up first since high (a relative term) rpms could cause a lot of problems with cold pistons. In fact, everyone I know, all of my neighbors, friends, co-workers, all let their car warm up first.

Since both of you live in states that are south of me, I think you experience milder winters. I live in central New England and the last two winters have been brutal. I just can't imagine not warming up the car in that kind of weather. I think I would cause more damage if I didn't let it warm up.

I don't know anyone who owns a car with a carborator. I think they are all fuel injected. I have never heard of idling being bad for the engine, but I'm sure it isn't great for the environment.

The one thought that comes to mind is that the gas stations have switched to a winter mixture in the gasoline. That may be making the car less efficient. Does anyone know?

eco_grad · February 2004

Hi all - I am a one-time 1990 VW Fox owner thinking about buying either a 2001 5 sp manual Jetta (leather, sunroof, 45k miles, $13500) or maybe leasing a new Jetta.

However, I have heard a few Jetta horror stories lately, as in dozens of expensive repairs.

I love the way VWs drive, but not enough to endure so many mechanical problems.

Any advice?

ruking1 · February 2004

Well yes, the winter mixture is an oxygenated gas (ethanol). Just that fact alone can affect/effect up to a 20% decrease in mpg. So if you are used to ie 25 mpg a 5 mpg or 20 mpg is conceiveable.

ruking1 · February 2004

"Hi all - I am a one-time 1990 VW Fox owner thinking about buying either a 2001 5 sp manual Jetta (leather, sunroof, 45k miles, $13500) or maybe leasing a new Jetta.

However, I have heard a few Jetta horror stories lately, as in dozens of expensive repairs.

I love the way VWs drive, but not enough to endure so many mechanical problems.

Any advice? "

For the increased chances of getting a "problem child" stay with gasser VW. For less chances I would stick with a Japanese make like a Civic or Corolla. VW gasser engines have too many "problem children" that consume more oil than most.

I have a TDI Jetta and in 10 mo and 23k miles, it has performed flawlessly. But in the worst case, I have done and am prepared to do most maintenance myself and after 50k warranty willing to swap parts as needed.

bpeebles · February 2004

(pop18t) Whoever you spoke to at the dealership is WRONG! They work on mostly new vehicles under warantee. Anyone that has experience with HIGH MILAGE engines can tell immediatly how it was warmed up over its life. The inside of the "idled" engine is a mess.... the inside of engines that were treated with more care are generally NOT EVEN SEEN (because they do not break)

Letting an engine idle (especially until it is fully up to operating temp) will contaminate the oil with gunk and eventually destroy the engine.

As soon as the engine is running smoothly, DRIVE IT! Just be gentle.

It is a FACT that most engine wear occours DURING WARMUP. It is then, obvious that the warmup time should be made as short as possible. Gentle driving warms up the engine significantly faster than idling it.

You spoke of living in "Central New England" but I cannot find your locale in your profile. I have extensive experience with true cold weather driving. I wonder if you have ever experienced "square tires" from being soo cold/stiff that they have flat spots on them. How about power-steering that will not turn because of the cold? Sublimination from the windshield? Doors that will not close no matter how hard you slam them?

If you are concerned about driving a cold engine, get an engine heater. All of my vehicles have them.

pop18t · February 2004

Thanks for the input. I never let the car warm up using the temp gauge. I just wait until the tach drops bellow 1000 rpm and then I go. It takes about a minute at most. What do you consider the point at which the engine is "running smoothly?"

bpeebles · February 2004

How about: "Not coughing and sputtering trying to keep itself idling."

Basically, starting process in sub-zero Farenheit weather is;

*Turn key to 'run' and observe that self-tests pass.
*Turn key to 'start' and pray that the battery has enough juice to crank engine.
...if engine starts....
*After 10-30 seconds let clutch out slowly in neutral to "load" the engine with the gears spinning in the very thick transmission lube.
* Continue to 'load' the engine by tuning on electrical items (lights, seats, rear defrost, heated mirrors.)
*gently turn steering wheel left-right several inches to verify that power-steering fluid is thin enough to steer.
*by now the engine has been idling for about a minute... go ahead and drive it gently. keep revs low and do not overload engine with quick accelleration.

NOTE: Some folks unfortunately have an AUTOMATIC transmission. (Mostly North America has this affliction) If you are one of the 'unfortunates', you may hold the brake and place engine in DRIVE to load it gently for the first 50 seconds or so before starting to drive. This allows time for the automatic xmission fluid to start flowing thru the passages. On a VW, this also heats up the engine because the heat generated in the xmission is transferred to the engine antifreeze via a heat exchanger.

whatisthegrass · February 2004

Hello all. In the next year I am looking to buy a 1999 or 2000 jetta (5sp/4 or 6). I am looking for testamonials. I am used to toyotas, and understand VW is NOT toyota, but I don't want a maint. nightmare. Perspectives? Thanks.

bpeebles · February 2004

(whatisthegrass) I have owned at least 5 VWs over the years. Each had gone well over 120,000 miles before I moved to another vehicle. Currently, my wife and daughter each have one.

If VW still sold a pickup truck in North America, I would not own a Dodge. (I REALLY LOVED my rabbitt-pickup)

I never considerd any of my VWs a "maint. nightmare". They were maintained propely and things were fixed correctly when problems arised. (broken Muffler, brakes worn out, worn suspension parts...etc) Nothing that any other vehicle with over 100,000 miles may encounter.

My daughters 1st car was an old Golf. She drove the wheels off that thing... and it never left her stranded. Now, being older, she just bought a 2001 Golf and LOVES it.

I have been so impressed with purchasing USED VWs over the years, I bought my wife a NEW one last year. (only 13,000 miles thus far)

limabean2 · February 2004

I own a 2002 VW Jetta GLS 2.0 4 cylinder automatic. The auto shift from 2dn to 3rd gear is very hard! all other gears shift easy (even when cold). When cold, it feels like the transmission drops (very hard shift) during the 2nd to 3rd gear shift. Any advice? Also, answer the question about how long to warm up and any special "tricks" to use when first starting the car and putting it in gear.

drprogress · February 2004

My mechanic and I are stumped about what's causing engine fumes to enter the main cab of our 1996 Jetta GLS (104k). The problem is quite severe especially after slow city driving or idling in traffic. We've replaced fuel pump and seals recently and are wary of spending good money after bad especially since we're considering stepping into a car that can better handle our one-year-old's car seat and an adult passenger or two.

Any suggestions on likely steps to take to eliminate the foul odor of exhaust from the cab would be greatly appreciated as would ideas of cars or small SUVS best suited to a growing family.

jtrujillo86 · February 2004

I'll betcha' it's the catalytic converter.

Jeremy

zzeeker · February 2004

Hello,
I have a 99 jetta that I have a tremendous rattle coming from the catalytic converter. It seems like something inside came loose and is bouncing around inside. It is really horrible especially at idle. I thought it was something I had to live with, or spend a lot of money on a new one. A friend said it should be covered under the factory warranty. I have about 90k on the car now. Anyone think I could get this covered? Also, I haven't had the car in for service in quite a while. Any recommendation on what I should get serviced without spending a fortune? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

ben222 · February 2004

Suggestion: Just had installed a great Hella driving light kit (originally fog light but replace bulbs to make them driving lights) in my '02 Jetta. Completely wireless so it was an easy install. Here is the kit (shows a Golf but it is for the Jetta): http://www.electrodyne.cc/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&- - Product_Code=75018

Question: I have a little of what appears to be black paint on my left taillight. I can't remove it with a razor. Any suggestions?

bpeebles · February 2004

(ben222) Those foglights look pretty cool. I wish I could put them on my VW, but alas, the area where the passengers-side foglight mounts is the INTERCOOLER AIR INTAKE for the 1.8T and TDI engines.

I assume you have a NA (Normally Asperated) engine that does not have an intercooler so this is not an issue for you.

ben222 · February 2004

The smallest engine - the name escapes me. Not the TDI, VR6, 1.8T. Just the one with "nothing" on the rear end of the vehicle. (obviously I am new to engines). I assume the customization shop would have told me if there was a problem, but from your message it seems that I am ok. Thanks for the response.

Any ideas about that paint on the taillight? ;-)

fish8 · March 2004

I think you are referencing the base GL or GLS with the 2.0 engine.

tonymro · March 2004

Are there any other good looking after-market foglamp kits that will work on a Jetta TDI without interfering with the air intake?

bpeebles · March 2004

(tonymro) The only foglights I have come across are the euro-style that have the foglight in the headlight housing. They are commonly known as "E-code" headlight housing.

This website sells Ecode lighting products;
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi/?html=learnm- - ore.html&productID=14

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?home=Volkswa- gen

Here is another one;
http://www.momentummotorparts.com/pages/mmpecodes.html

These are not true E-codes lights but are simular
http://www.performance-cafe.com/

ben222 · March 2004

I looked into this for my GLS 2.0 - all Jettas have the foglights built into the headlight, but only the GLX has the wiring to the dash. All other versions just have the foglight built in but it does nothing - they just don't want to make two kinds of headlights I guess. If you have something other than the GLX, doing the wiring is so tough that no one I could find would even consider it. This is why I went with the grill ones that I got.

galogvi · March 2004

I've had by 1.8T for just over 2 years and 30K miles and, aside from the little quircky issues everyone seems to have, it's been a fun ride.
The main problem plaguing me right now is extremely odd and puzzling. It started about 2 months ago when we were having record low temperatures here in New England. I had the heater up high and after awhile I started hearing a loud creaking sound coming from what sounded like the center of the dash. Not a rattle, but a creak. If I put my hand on the dash above the center vents it stops. I don't even have to apply any pressure. Also, if I turn the temperature control knob to the coldest setting and blow cold air for about 15-30 seconds it goes away. Usually happens most when the heater control switch is set to either Floor/Vents or Floor setting.

Any thoughts? This one ranks up there with the LCD clock and odometer numbers going wacky on occasion (I know others have seen this one too)

fish8 · March 2004

I have experienced a similar, but not exact, situation in my Jetta. But my noise is more of a rattle. It comes from the center dash vent and it occurs more when the tempature outside is warm. When it is cold outside the noise tends to disappear. If I put very slight pressure on the center of the dash/vent the rattle sound goes away. I wish it were a constant noise so the dealer would hear it. But, when I take it in for service they can NEVER hear it. The noise is not variable dependent on the internal tempature setting. I am not sure what the creak sounds like, so I am sorry I am not more helpful.

tonymro · March 2004

Thanks for the web links bpeebles. Ben222, are you sure that the foglights are already built into the headlamp assembly, but the wiring for the fog lamps is not installed on '04 Jetta GLS?

ben222 · March 2004

Not 100% - I'm relying though what I was told at a VW dealer. Maybe it changed in '04. They told me that the only ones that have the wiring are GLX's (this was a month or so ago), and that all the headlights have the spot for the foglights. If I turn on my headlights and brights, I can see the place where there is no light - there is actually an unused bulb in there. But maybe you should ask VW just in case.

vohr · March 2004

I'm just wandering if anyone experienced similar problems. I own a 2003 Jetta 2.0L Yesterday, I had to call a roadside assistance because the automatic transimision was locked up in P(ark) and EPC light was on. They walked me through steps on how to bypass car's electronics and unlock the trans and suggested to show the car to the dealer ASAP.

bpeebles · March 2004

(vohr)... and the procedure is?

vohr · March 2004

Turn the key into position 1.
Shift the transmision so it is between N and D and while holding it there start the engine and [non-permissible content removed] to D.

zzeeker · March 2004

Does anyone know what the factory warranty is on the catalytic converter for a 99 jetta gls? There is a tremendous rattle coming from the converter - like something broke loose inside. The car runs fine except for the noise. The car has a little over 90000 on it. Anyone know what the cost is to replace?

bpeebles · March 2004

(zzeeker) The cat (an ALL other emmissions-control equipment) are waranteed by FEDERAL LAW.

Check the doccumentation with the owners manual. There should be a document explaining the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE. It is often significanty longer than the manufacturers warantee on the test of the vehicle.

burnedagain · March 2004

I just bought an 04 Jetta GLI. I have 181 miles on the car and have already had all 4 brake rotors replaced because they were warped. I am smelling a burning smell on the driver's side of the car while shifting from 1st through 3rd gears. The service tech at the dealership couldn't verify the smell during our test drive and suggested it may be coming from the exhaust system. Any ideas?

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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