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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    When it comes to something like ignition coils, I would avoid the salvage yard and buy a new one. The coil probably cracked while sitting in the salvage yard through the heat and cold weather cycles (for who knows how long...)...

    germanautoparts.com has a new ignition coil pack for 1999+ Jetta with 2.0L engine for
    $99.75. I would rather spend the extra $40 bucks for a new coil than take my chances with a $60 used one...

    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/57/12
  • jrhodesjrhodes Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 VW-Jetta VR6 and have been having EPC light problems for about 7 months now. I was originally told by VW that I needed a new catalytic converter for $1,700. I balked and took it elswhere and was told that I definitely didn't need the catalytic converter. Now, it randomly comes on while I'm driving and my car will stall. I've taken it in a few times and the repair shop has never been able to pinpoint the problem. Two months ago I had my battery replaced because it boiled over and that seemed to solve the problem until this morning...driving to work. The check engine light and EPC light came on while driving on the highway. The Check engine light went out but the EPC light stayed on. The car seemed to be driving ok though (the manual says that it will run at reduced power). After getting to work, I turned off the car and restarted it - - the EPC light did not stay on. I don't know what to do. I've just about had it with taking this car into the shop. It seems that the repair shop is at their witts end as well. I've suggested the ignition coil and been turned down. Any ideas?????
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would also have the 0-2 sensors checked out -just in case...
  • bsc1bsc1 Member Posts: 32
    Anybody have any electric problems with the new Jettas?
  • jrhodesjrhodes Member Posts: 2
    I'm having it looked at right now. The repair guy said it sounded like the "BUS was shutting down"? I don't know what that means but my fingers are crossed. On the way to drop it off the engine stalled and somehow got itself back. I think that there's something wrong in the electrical wiring or main computer. Other than the weird EPC light problems the car runs great. If the root cause can just be figured out. Is it possible to get the car's computer reloaded?
  • lafreem2lafreem2 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone been able to find a solution to this? My 2003 Jetta GLS (automatic) does this as well, however not just in the morning. It does it especially when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It's a hard jerk. I took it to the dealership to be looked at today and they of course "were unable to duplicate the problem." They want me to come in and try to duplicate this for them. I find it unbelievable that no one has ever come to them with this problem before. According to my service manager, "all the specs" of my car are in order so they have no idea what hte problem is.

    Any advice would be MUCH appreciated.

    A second problem I'm having is that my car is CREAKING quite a bit at low speeds.
    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (600kgolfgt) That "STP Wire Dryer" is obviously a copy of what WD40 is intended to do. I am sure either product does a fine job.

    WD40 actually stands for Water Displacer (formula #40)

    WD40 was originally formulated for the milatary. The chemist went thru 39 previous formulations before he settled on the last formula (#40)

    It was then marketed to the public as "WD40"... but its main purpose in life is still a Water Displacer.
  • vr6boravr6bora Member Posts: 2
    Ignition coil. The VR6 ignition coils are notorious for cracking and allowing moisture to cause "arc-ing" which will cause the rough running and loss of power you describe. You can confirm this is the problem yourself. Simply fill a spray bottle with water and, with the engine running, spray water on your ignition coil. If you see sparking and the engine runs roughly when you do this you'll know where the problem is. A VR6 coil costs about $500. You can try coating it with epoxy after drying it out instead of buying a new one.
  • vr6boravr6bora Member Posts: 2
    Ignition coil. The VR6 ignition coils are notorious for cracking and allowing moisture to cause "arc-ing" which will cause the rough running and loss of power you describe. You can confirm this is the problem yourself. Simply fill a spray bottle with water and, with the engine running, spray water on your ignition coil. If you see sparking and the engine runs roughly when you do this you'll know where the problem is. A VR6 coil costs about $500. You can try coating it with epoxy after drying it out instead of buying a new one.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    STP Wire Dryer becomes dry upon contact, while WD-40 leaves an oily residue.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    bpeebles found the 2001 VR6 coil and the wires at http://www.germanautoparts.com for less than $500. (See post #3630).
  • musclecarlo72musclecarlo72 Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone, as you can tell from my name, I am a car junkie, just not on anything after 1990. I have a used 2001 GLS 1.8t 5 speed that I just got 6 months ago. I drove my car home the other night with absolutely no troubles at all. Then the next morning went to start it and it wont turn over. The starter is working great and the battery is charged. New cars (expecially non-GM) is an area I'm not real experienced in. It seems like it may be a fuel pump, but then again it could be electrical. Does anyone know of anything it may be? I have had all recalls done on it within the last 6 months. I am going to take it to get fixed but just was wondering if anyone may know of a common problem first. :sick:

    One last thing, If anyone in the Tampa Bay area is looking for a great VW shop go to BOB BOAST VW in Bradenton! I go 40 miles to get to them even though I have a Dealership 3 miles from my house. The are open on the weekends and have GREAT SERVICE and HONESTY. :D (nothing like a shameless plug hu?)
  • rennie1rennie1 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry so long. I had the engine vibration issue. The front bearings are not sealed and can be lubed. It was from the rear bearing. I was told that hot weather is murder on sealed bearings. Once the rear we replaced, the vibration went away. The clip issue for the windows is not only a VW issue, BMW and Mercedes had the same problem.
  • rennie1rennie1 Member Posts: 2
    gum on the end of a straw
  • donshardonshar Member Posts: 3
    My 1995 has an oil leak. A mechanic indicated that it is coming from a leaky head gasket. Has anyone ever heard of a leaky head gasket causing an oil leak. It costs about $700 to replace it so I want to make sure that it fixeds the problem.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If your head gasket is leaking, it would leak a lot more than just oil (also engine coolant). Make sure it's not the valve cover gasket that's leaking instead of the head gasket...
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Does not sound righ to me - I have heard of a leaky head gasket allowing oil & engine coolant to mix - oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil.

    But if you have oil dripping out on to the ground it sounds more like a rear main seal (which could cost that much) or a valve cover gasket (which would NEVER cost that much to fix)
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    A rear main seal would be close to the dollar amount quoted (since the majority of that cost is the labor involved to remove and reinstall the transmission)...
  • focusartistsfocusartists Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Jetta GLX that continues to cause me problems. The car has been in the shop numerous times for electrical and coolant problems. I've be to three different dealerships and they fix the problems, but every six months the coolant light comes on and there is a problem with the car overheating or a problem with the A/C.

    Two weeks ago they replaced a fuse for the coolant system and fans for the
    A/C. The A/C was blowing out hot air. Now two weeks later the A/C has a bad smell when you start the A/C. The dealer is telling me that it's because of Mold and it's something not covered under warrenty. Has anyone else had problems with Mold in their A/C? I'm not sure how this could happen and does it have anything to do with the Coolant System, which has caused me many problems? Thanks. Daniel
  • bebechicbebechic Member Posts: 1
    I drove my Jetta out of town about 100 miles from where I live. When I started my car to head back home, the car/engine started shaking really bad. Shortly after, the coolant temp. warning light came on and stayed on, followed by the check engine light. Note: during this month my mother mentioned she saw fluid leaking out from the engine. I drove my car home and it's been sitting for about two months. Currently there is no tranny fluid, all other fluids fine. I had it towed to a shop where they specialize in trannys. In order for them to properly diagnosis my car, it must be in normal running condition first, it was missing a hit.? (It's like a foreign language to me.) So with their advice it has been tuned up and the ignition coil replaced. If all goes well they can start looking at the tranny. I really don't know what I'm doing. Any input or advice appreciated. Thanks
  • tricia1108tricia1108 Member Posts: 4
    First let me say I love my jetta and up till now I've really had no major problems. However, currently my temperature gauge has been doing some weird things. Sometimes it works, sometimes it'll be in the middle (where it should be) and sudden drop to the left side. Sometime it'll start to move to the middle and then drops back to the left side. I talked with on mechanic (not VW) and he said that I should "bail" on my car! I was shocked!! I have an appointment on Monday at the VW service station. Has anyone had this problem???
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I had an erratic temperature gauge that would wander similarly to the way you describe (not in a Jetta) and after a new thermostat and a new sending unit things are perefectly normal again.

    I am not a mechanic or even very handy, but I don't think I'd use the mecahnic who tells you to dump a car based on something that might be caused by a bad sending unit and/or bad thermostat.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    PLEASE do not post the same question in several forums. Most of us are subscribed to all of the VW forums and have to read the same thing over and over again.

    I have already responded to your question elsewhere.... now you have answers spread all over the place and it is hard to follow the thread.
  • jpcammarjpcammar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 GLS (2.0, 4CYL, MT) with 32,000 miles that I bought brand new. I recently noticed some odd behavior with the temperature gauge. Earlier today, I was driving and the tempature gauge reached 240 degrees after I had traveled about 5 miles after a cold engine start. The temp light did not come on but I pulled over anyway. The coolant reservoir was full and I saw no signs of a leak. So, I went shopping at the Best Buy across the street for about 2 hours, came back and started it up again. I made it home but the gauge was hovering between 220-240F once again but the temp light didn't come on again either. The manual says that tempature fluctuation is normal if the temp light doesn't come on but it was 65F outside and I have never seen the temp gauge go above 195F in the 2.5 years I have owned the car. Not to mention, I was in 5th and the RPMs were at 2200. I have taken the car on 8 hour road trips in the dead heat of the Carolina summer season and I have never seen the operating temp of the vehicle exceed 195F. I am inclined to believe the thermostat is going bad but I'm not sure...
    Has anyone seen this behavior with their Jetta? Is this normal and should I not be concerned? Thanks in advance!!
  • longborderdlongborderd Member Posts: 3
    When I start my car my headlights, A/C, blower, and wipers don't work. There is also a strange 'ghost' light that says my e-brake is on when it isn't. When I turn the key to the right, as if to start it when it is already running (without engaging the starter of course) the problem goes away, but comes back if I do not hold the key in the position. Also, I can get my headlights to come on if I hold my brights on. Any thoughts on the cause of this malfunction?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds like a poor ground somwhere. This causes what is known as a "ground loop" wheras current is flowing 'backwards' thru things. This is often seen as the "e-brakbrake light" glowing...or the blinkers quitting when you hit the brake pedal..

    Another thing that I have done with EVERY vehicle that I have ever owned is to locate, remove, and file the paint from underneath every factory ground point. This effort has rewarded me with fewer ground issues over the years.

    Keep in mind that I am TRAINED in electronics and am very familear with "ground loops" and how they manifest themselves. An electrical system with resistive ground points can behave in VERY strange ways.

    For example, a resistive ground may be good enough to do simple things, but when asked to carry higher currents (such as headlites or AC), the entire electrical system goes nuts because current is now flowing 'backwards' thru wires that are EXPECTED to be a solid ground point.

    If you have a DVM (DigitalVoltMeter) there are additional tests you can do to isolate the failing ground. Clip the BLACK lead to the battery NEGATIVE and probe on various points of the electrical system that are SUPPOSED to be ground.
    The reading should ALWAYS be less than 50mV at all times. (turn on various electric things to verify.) If you detect a problem, just add a wire from there to a good ground. The problem will be fixed.

    These kinds of problems are often VERY difficult to isolate. It is often easier to just add additional ground wires to key points of the electrical system to compensate for the ones that are failing.
  • anne82anne82 Member Posts: 1
    when warming up my car in the morning it sounds lika an airplane after warming up the sounds goes away. the sound is almost as if there might be a hole in something and that a lot of air is coming through the somethings causing this airplane noise. vw dealership told me this was normal then i came to find out a year later he lied the vw dealer ship cant tell me whats wrong and when i went to smog my car 15 codes popped up. the car runs fine engine sounds good no problems with power but i swear every other week its something else with this car :sick:
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Your car is still under warranty, so just let the dealer troubleshoot the problem...for FREE!!
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • nospamnospam Member Posts: 54
    Hey, I have a 2000 jetta GLX and I was having a similiar clicking issue wiht my car as well. I was even able to fell it on my feet. Anyway, I took the car in and I needed to get my two lower left and right ball joints replaced. It was actually more serious then I had anticipated. So I figured that might be something you should check out if you haven't already gotten it fixed. It cost me about $260 for parts and labor...should be the same for you.
  • nospamnospam Member Posts: 54
    Apparently my driver side mirror is begining to rust cause these brown, strange but actually quite elgante, streaks are forming underneath the mirror. I spoke to my guy at the body shop and as I understand it VW has some type of aluminum sheet that the mirror attches to to create better reflection or possible reduce glare...something along those lines. Anyway, the brown coloring has created these streaks on the underside of my mirror and I don't know what to do about. I'm not sure if I can remove the mirror and clean the aluminum sheet or what but my mechanic said he would have to replace the whole thing for something like $300 and I don't want i to come to that. Has anyone heard of this problem before? Does anyone have any suggestion on how to solve it?
  • importorbustimportorbust Member Posts: 5
    I have the same exact car (2000 VW Jetta VR6) with the same problem. I just bought the car about a week ago and when I started it the other day the EPC light was on so I took it back to the dealership I purchased it from (Toyota) and told them what was going on. They kept it for the day and when I contacted them about it they said they had sent the car to the local VW dealership who told me that my problem was common for this year and model and was covered under one of VW's recalls. When I purchased the car Toyota gave (sold for $1150) me a 3yr 36000 mile warranty that this is covered under so I cant tell you how much it cost. The car wont be done until tomorrow so I cant tell you for sure if that fixed the problem yet, but you may want to ask your dealer if all the recalls have been performed on your car. I dont know if this will help at all but i thought since we had the same car with the same problem (so it seems) this would give you something to try.
  • etherbfddetherbfdd Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 jetta glx and my power windows and mirrors are not working i found a 5 amp fus eunder the hood that was blown one day and replaced it shortly after that my windows worked for about three days but since i have replaced the fuse over and over but my windows still don't work has anyone had similar problems and know how to fix this
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Did you get the car inspected by an independent mechanic prior to your purchase?
  • redvr6redvr6 Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light has been on several times; after paying VW for 2 hours of labor to check it, I replaced Oxygen sensor. I've also replace the spark plug wires, OS again, as well as some other parts. The check engine light has been on again for about 8 months and the EPC light came on three weeks ago. The car runs fine; but the lights are annoying - I don't think there's a"real" problem.

    Someone in an earlier post mentions replacing the ignition coil; do you hink I should do this. Should I get an ODBII reader and find out what codes are being returned?

    One other thing; often when I start the car, the exhaust smells like sulfur and/or rotten eggs - anyone else?

    Have also had the window fall out, moonroof issues, starter, bad smelling A/C.....

    I'm tired of dishing out cash for hit-or-miss remedies.

    Also, a recall was mentioned, related to the EPC light; details?

    Thanks much
  • bogoatsbogoats Member Posts: 1
    I just brought my 2005 Jetta GL (manual transmission) in for it's 5k oil change and I reported that I was getting a humming noise when turning the wheel accelerating from a dead stop. According to a VW bulletin, changing the tranny fluid to a synthetic based will eliminate this problem. It affects all Jettas '99 and newer. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there any long term effects from it(like premature transmission replacement)? The humming noise has ceased since replacing the tranny fluid. The dealer I went to is supposedly pretty reputable in this area and their service department has never seen this before. Seems strange since it has been a problem since 1999.
  • importorbustimportorbust Member Posts: 5
    The car was VW and Toyota certified as well as being covered by a Toyota 3 yr 36000 mi bumper to bumper warranty which allows me to have the car serviced at any VW or Toyota dealership. With 42,000 mi on it I talked the dealership down to $9500 on a car with a retail of $13775 and it had the bumper to bumper warranty I thought I couldn't go wrong. As it is the dealership (or Toyota) is footing the bill for all the work being done.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "humming during turning" is a known problem (as witnessed by the TSB)

    My 2003 Jetta has done it since new, now that I know that it is the differential, I just ignore it. It does not harm anything.

    BTW - I beleive that the factory manual xmission fluid is synthetic-based anyway.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I'll take that as a no, as far as getting it inspected. It's great that it is a CPO vehicle. But, from the research I have done, many dealers don't really do a thorough inspection of these cars. They just "certify" the car and tack a warranty (which is great) on it and place it on the used car lot.

    I just know too many people that have gotten burned on used cars. You have no idea how the car was driven. If the car was driven hard, the damage it caused may not show up until many years down the road causing possible engine, tranmission, etc....failure. But, who's to say a brand new car won't have the same problems. :confuse:

    I hope you have great luck with your car and I'm glad you have a warranty that will cover any repairs.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Is it all dealerships in USA can certify the preowned vehicles they traded in even though they are not the dealership? Do they know how to repair those cars or they will send to that brand's dealership for repair?
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Good questions that I don't have answers for....
  • justinthrljustinthrl Member Posts: 1
    Ok... i don't know if this is the way it is supposed to work or not... i just purchased a 99 1/2 Jetta... Today it is finally 90 degrees and i decided to turn on the A/C to my surprise the car only blows cold air when the vehicle is sitting at 2k rpms and higher. So if i am in stop and go traffic i get nothing but hot air... as soon as i speed up it is icy cold... what is going on here??? please help!!! :confuse:
  • importorbustimportorbust Member Posts: 5
    My Jetta was covered by a Toyota warranty issued by a Toyota-Volvo-Jaguar dealership. The Warranty lets me have the car serviced at any Toyota OR VW dealership with no charge.
  • importorbustimportorbust Member Posts: 5
    The recall they performed on my car included two switches, one of which was the brake light switch...im sorry I cant remember what the other was I have the paperwork out in the car ill check later. I just got my car back this afternoon so as to whether it solved the problem we'll have to see...
  • importorbustimportorbust Member Posts: 5
    My '00 VR6 was also having problems with the a/c working sporadically, the dealership replaced the a/c grounding wire to fix. Dont know if this will help but maybe its a place to start??
  • bmik67bmik67 Member Posts: 1
    I was searching online to see if others have had problems with their wiper system on 2000-series Jettas. I can hear the motor running for the wipers, but they do not move. Apparently is a difficult repair and known to the car repair community. As soon as I described the problem to my mechanic and mentioned Volkswagen, he said I have to call the dealer. It is an intrusive (and probably expensive) repair. One would think the mechanical fuse of this system would be easily accessible for service.
  • paddypaddy Member Posts: 2
    I wish to tow a small pop-up trailer with my 2.0 L diesel manual trans. total weight of trailer about 1000lb. Tongue weight abut 100lb. Is this workable?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is known that the "pivot points" for the wipers can corrode and sieze up. It is a good idea to lubricate them periodically. Unfortunately, one cannot just squirt some oil in a convienient spot.

    It takes some tools (10 MM socket) and then pulling the wiper arms off the splines.
    Then remove the vailance over the pivot points to access, clean, and lubricate them. It is certainly not "rocket science" but if not lubricated occasionally, then eventually the motor will either not be able to move the wipers -- or break the linkage.

    There are detailed instructions on how to do this on the internet... you should be able to find out all you need to know with less than 15 minutes of searching.
  • jason0820jason0820 Member Posts: 21
    Have a '03 Jetta 2.0, and have experienced erratic problems with the error code coming on in the single deck CD player (standard factory installed)... I use primarily burned CDs, but error also comes on when playing standard store purchased music CDs.
    It doesn't happen all the time, but every so often when I turn on the player... usually goes away after I switch back to radio and then back to CD, then it starts reading it again fine. Anyone else experience this quirk in the factory instal CD player??
  • candieselguycandieselguy Member Posts: 2
    I Have a 99 1/2 jetta diesel 5 sp with 215,000 km's that has been towing a small trailer since new. Once when I overloaded the trailer and lugged the engine down I fouled the MASS air flow sensor. Turbo and fuel would not work properly( 50 mph top speed ) Replaced sensor worked great. Major problem with towing is not to overload breaking system,. The car was not designed to tow . I have had no problems but with towing safety is always a issue. My tongue weight never went as high as 100 lbs. but the trailer weight has exceeded 1000 lbs.Maybe your axle on the trailer can be shifted forward to lower the tongue weight
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