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Comments
germanautoparts.com has a new ignition coil pack for 1999+ Jetta with 2.0L engine for
$99.75. I would rather spend the extra $40 bucks for a new coil than take my chances with a $60 used one...
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/57/12
Any advice would be MUCH appreciated.
A second problem I'm having is that my car is CREAKING quite a bit at low speeds.
Thanks!
WD40 actually stands for Water Displacer (formula #40)
WD40 was originally formulated for the milatary. The chemist went thru 39 previous formulations before he settled on the last formula (#40)
It was then marketed to the public as "WD40"... but its main purpose in life is still a Water Displacer.
One last thing, If anyone in the Tampa Bay area is looking for a great VW shop go to BOB BOAST VW in Bradenton! I go 40 miles to get to them even though I have a Dealership 3 miles from my house. The are open on the weekends and have GREAT SERVICE and HONESTY. (nothing like a shameless plug hu?)
But if you have oil dripping out on to the ground it sounds more like a rear main seal (which could cost that much) or a valve cover gasket (which would NEVER cost that much to fix)
Two weeks ago they replaced a fuse for the coolant system and fans for the
A/C. The A/C was blowing out hot air. Now two weeks later the A/C has a bad smell when you start the A/C. The dealer is telling me that it's because of Mold and it's something not covered under warrenty. Has anyone else had problems with Mold in their A/C? I'm not sure how this could happen and does it have anything to do with the Coolant System, which has caused me many problems? Thanks. Daniel
I am not a mechanic or even very handy, but I don't think I'd use the mecahnic who tells you to dump a car based on something that might be caused by a bad sending unit and/or bad thermostat.
I have already responded to your question elsewhere.... now you have answers spread all over the place and it is hard to follow the thread.
Has anyone seen this behavior with their Jetta? Is this normal and should I not be concerned? Thanks in advance!!
Another thing that I have done with EVERY vehicle that I have ever owned is to locate, remove, and file the paint from underneath every factory ground point. This effort has rewarded me with fewer ground issues over the years.
Keep in mind that I am TRAINED in electronics and am very familear with "ground loops" and how they manifest themselves. An electrical system with resistive ground points can behave in VERY strange ways.
For example, a resistive ground may be good enough to do simple things, but when asked to carry higher currents (such as headlites or AC), the entire electrical system goes nuts because current is now flowing 'backwards' thru wires that are EXPECTED to be a solid ground point.
If you have a DVM (DigitalVoltMeter) there are additional tests you can do to isolate the failing ground. Clip the BLACK lead to the battery NEGATIVE and probe on various points of the electrical system that are SUPPOSED to be ground.
The reading should ALWAYS be less than 50mV at all times. (turn on various electric things to verify.) If you detect a problem, just add a wire from there to a good ground. The problem will be fixed.
These kinds of problems are often VERY difficult to isolate. It is often easier to just add additional ground wires to key points of the electrical system to compensate for the ones that are failing.
Thanks for your consideration,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
Someone in an earlier post mentions replacing the ignition coil; do you hink I should do this. Should I get an ODBII reader and find out what codes are being returned?
One other thing; often when I start the car, the exhaust smells like sulfur and/or rotten eggs - anyone else?
Have also had the window fall out, moonroof issues, starter, bad smelling A/C.....
I'm tired of dishing out cash for hit-or-miss remedies.
Also, a recall was mentioned, related to the EPC light; details?
Thanks much
My 2003 Jetta has done it since new, now that I know that it is the differential, I just ignore it. It does not harm anything.
BTW - I beleive that the factory manual xmission fluid is synthetic-based anyway.
I just know too many people that have gotten burned on used cars. You have no idea how the car was driven. If the car was driven hard, the damage it caused may not show up until many years down the road causing possible engine, tranmission, etc....failure. But, who's to say a brand new car won't have the same problems. :confuse:
I hope you have great luck with your car and I'm glad you have a warranty that will cover any repairs.
It takes some tools (10 MM socket) and then pulling the wiper arms off the splines.
Then remove the vailance over the pivot points to access, clean, and lubricate them. It is certainly not "rocket science" but if not lubricated occasionally, then eventually the motor will either not be able to move the wipers -- or break the linkage.
There are detailed instructions on how to do this on the internet... you should be able to find out all you need to know with less than 15 minutes of searching.
It doesn't happen all the time, but every so often when I turn on the player... usually goes away after I switch back to radio and then back to CD, then it starts reading it again fine. Anyone else experience this quirk in the factory instal CD player??