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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • package2package2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! Can anyone tell me what was done to solve the "ratlling speaker" problem?

    Mine seems to rattle only with the Satellite radio.
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Member Posts: 8
    I apologize for the "long-winded" story! Fact is the coolant sensor replacement did not work - the CEL was on again the next day... (BTW: New sensor is "green", I think)

    She planned to give the VW Service Manager and VWOA an earful today - the Coolant Temp Sensor replacement appears to have been a waste of $150. VW mechanics so far are no more competent than the garage that started this snowball rolling...

    We are in agreement re: initial cause of the problem (first mechanic screwed-up!) but it is an import garage that came highly recommended by other VW owners - she'll have to make sure to correct that with appropriate word-of-mouth herself!

    I will post here when I get more info...
  • olson2334olson2334 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone point me to a site that explains how to replace the spark plugs in a 2001 VW Jetta VR6? If it had pictures on how to do it that would be better yet. I am a novice when it comes to ths sort of thing so would appreciate any help anyone could give me. Thanks.
  • dballard87dballard87 Member Posts: 1
    I know this msg is a little late, but i had the same problem last year, and it seemed to jerk until the engine was warmed up... there is no way to put fluid in since their supposed to """"last forever"""" finally last june my trans completely went out and only reverse would work. so what did i have to do ? spend 3000 on a new trans from VW and all they gave was a crappy 12 k warranty
  • theojtaylortheojtaylor Member Posts: 1
    I understand about the safe mode. When I changed my battery my radio went into that mode. I bought the car used and didn't have a manual. I got the serial number and vin number and called it in to my local VW dealer. He gave me the access code.

    I was told to push and hold two specific buttons and then then 4 blank spaces would show up. When I do, the word "SAFE" blinks six times and then stops. That is all. Nothing else. The dealership then told me to leave the key in the ignition and the radio turned on for an hour and then try again. I did that and nothing.

    Does anybody have any ideas?
  • jetta92ownerjetta92owner Member Posts: 8
    Micki1: answer this one question for me: does your car require you to enable the seatbelts before it will start? In other words, if you unhitch the seatbelts before putting your key into the ignition, will the car not start when you try turning it on? This is not an idle question, for if you say, "Yes, my car will not start if the seatbelts are unhitched", then I suggest you have a REPUTABLE VW mechanic examine the seatbelt monitor switch located inside the the box into which the seat belt is locked (it's the box attached to the door post near your left shoulder). As a test, when driving, toggle the seat belt itself to see if there's any play. If there is, you should hear the open-door chime sound and the seat belt light flashing while the car is running. Remember: REPUTABLE VW MECHANIC ONLY!!! Anywhere else - you're wasting your time.
  • sfomelissasfomelissa Member Posts: 2
    Last night while traveling from a higher altitude to a lower altitude I had to brake suddenly and very hard to avoid a deer on the road. (I include this because I haven't a clue what may have caused the following.) Soon thereafter I noticed that the temperature gauge on my '99 Jetta, normally at 190 degrees (99.9 % of the time) began dropping, until finally it stayed at the far left "cold" position, for MILES. There was no change in engine performance. I stopped for gas and when I turned the engine back on the gauge stayed at cold. Thereafter, from time to time it would return to its normal 190 position, and then suddenly drop back to cold. Speed did not seem to have any effect. This occurred numerous times over the course of a 3 hour drive.

    Today the gauge seems fine, at 190. I drove it at 65 mph for about 5 minutes, and the remainder of the driving (two hours, running errands) was normal city, street driving, 25 to 35 mph.

    I should also mention that the check engine light has been on for a few weeks, after a two month period of going on and off intermittently with again, no perceptible change of performance. This has been an ongoing problem for many months, a couple of years actually. Early on my (independent) mechanic ran the diagnostic test, concluded that there was no specific problem, and told me not to pay too much attention to it. (He knows I pay close attention to the performance of the engine.)

    Oh -- it seems impossible to be related, but my alarm system is also entirely crazy, going off if I open the doors in the wrong order, or if I place my purse on the passenger seat BEFORE putting my fanny behind the wheel. And often the buttons don't go down (or some do and some don't) when I set the alarm.

    Before I take this clearly deranged vehicle to the mechanic, can anyone enlighten me on how serious the temperature gauge fluctuation might be? Thanks!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I had a temp guage on a Ford Contour that would sit at cold sometimes and other times bounce around. It ended up being the sending unit that was the problem.

    Just idle speculation here...since yours started acting up right after avoiding that collision, maybe the hard stop jarred something that was close to going bad and caused it to fail.
  • 2000jettaiv2000jettaiv Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with the temp gauge on my 2000 jetta. Just replace the water temperature sender on the vehicle. It only costs about 3 or 4 bucks and can be fixed in a couple of minutes. Apparently, the originals were defective.
  • sfomelissasfomelissa Member Posts: 2
    Do I need to take the auto to my mechanic or is this something that can be done by someone familier with engines?
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Member Posts: 8
    OK, BACK to the VW garage again this week - this time they replaced the CAT under warranty, no charges. She has actually managed to drive it 30 miles or so and the CEL is staying OFF!

    Now she wants to go back to VWOA to get a refund of the Dx check they ran that told them to replace the "coolant sensor", which turned-out to be a red herring! If I get any feedback on that I'll post a final follow-up... Hopefully we are nearing the end of the story!

    Happy Motoring!
  • psychojettapsychojetta Member Posts: 1
    first time on here and i need some help. I have a 99 jetta and its had its share of problems and i have a warranty. the first problem im having is weird, as im sitting in idle ie. drive-thru window, my gas gauge starts to go down until it gets to empty but i just filled up 20 miles ago and it'll stay like that until i turn the car off and run it for a bit. doesn't bug me but im a little worried. its been going on for a month or too.
    second started 2 weeks ago, my car was working fine, went to eat, got in to start it and it wouldn't start,not dead bat. engine was trying to turn over, after a couple times of turning the key it started up, check engine light came on. ran fine for a week, went and filled up, didnt start even after many trys. caught a ride to work, called a tow truck. the driver tried my car before he put in on the truck, it started. has started since then, until last night. it did the same thing just it was in my drive way so no tow truck. came home from work 6 hours later and it started, check engine light is on. i have an appointment to take it in this week but if i dont have to i dont want to. always loved vws but this is changing that feeling, its not as cheap and easy as a honda. im ok with a wrench but im a little hesitent to wrench on this because of the warranty from Wynn's. please if anyone has any suggestions im open for them.
  • harvgarvharvgarv Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Turbo Jetta (automatic) stuck in 4th gear last week & nothing will change it. Starts in 4th & stays there. Runs fine but has just the one gear. The 'PRN4321' indicator on dash reversed its field at the same time. Any ideas on cause?
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I am changing the oil on my 1.8T (A4) and was not able to find the larger filter that VW/Audi now recommends -- accept at the dealer. I called the dealer & was told the smaller filter would not void the warranty, but larger one was considered better as it increases the oil capacity by about 1/2 quart.

    Anyone have part number for the appropriate larger filter in an aftermarket brand (preferably Bosch or Purolator). Thanks for the help.

    2nd question: is it really necessary to put in a new oil pan drain plug (@$2.50 a crack) for every oil change -- seems like overkill.
  • t50786t50786 Member Posts: 1
    I am attempting to install a shift light on my '04 Jetta and need to connect a wire to the "tacho output" of the ECU. Any experience with accessing the ECU on a jetta, or with locating a tacho output? I have a wiring circuit diagram but it does not indicate a tacho output.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If you have a Jetta or Golf, a larger filter would be a waste of money. Due to the transverse-mounted engine, the sump capacity is the full 4.2 quarts. The only car the larger filter is needed is in the Passat 1.8T - since the engine is mounted longitudinally, the
    sump capacity is only 3.9 quarts. The larger filter is needed to bring the Passat's capacity to 4.2 quarts.
  • mazdamadmazdamad Member Posts: 3
    I bought my 2.5 Jetta in April after careful research and suffering through a horrible 3 year relationship with a Mazda Tribute. The first week the rear window on the drivers side would not go up automatically. When I took the car to the dealership to have the window tint completed, they forgot to fix the window. I figured I could live with it until the 5000 mile check up. Five weeks later the car had to be towed to the nearest dealership because the wire harness broke (not the dealership I purchased it from and it was a horrible experience) I went directly to VW of No America, received a good apology and they are paying for my 5000, 10000 & 20000 mile check-ups. Then at 3 months I received a recall for a bad fuel line, drove 35 miles to the purchasing dealership to have this fixed, and the window, and oops they can't fix the window they don't have the part. Now at 4 mos there is a warning light that the left rear brake light is defective and today after paying $3.05 per gallon for gas, the door on the gas tank broke. I get to drive with that for a week before they can fix it, hopefully nobody notices the free gas in my car. I called No Amer VW and will work my way to Frank Whitter, CEO, to have this car replaced. I walked away from Mazda and the crap they pulled but I won't walk away this time.
  • mudhenboymudhenboy Member Posts: 1
    holy cow....sounds like you've got a lemon.
    i am looking at buying one of these, and am wondering if you did alot of
    research? and if so, did you encounter any other reports of these issues
  • mazdamadmazdamad Member Posts: 3
    I did a lot of research because with my mazda I had in the shop 6 times in less than 3 years so I was very careful about choosing the VW. My sister-n-law has a 1999 with 70k+ miles and had 1or 2 issues but after about 1year so I figured it was okay plus I stopped people in parking lots and asked them questions..still no complaints. I can tell you though until the gas tank door is fixed any gas receipts will be saved - just in case someone decides to siphon my tank.
  • jphillips1jphillips1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta VW with the same problem that you described with the alarm. My mechanic cannot fix it. Did you get it fixed, what was it that was done? Thanks for your help. Jared
  • am01am01 Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with my VW jetta 2001 gls it was over heating I thought that it would be the thermostat so I got a new one and went to put it in and when i pulled it out there was some black plastic pieces behind it. It apparently is the water pump impellor it was broken into a couple pieces. I saw that you said there was a recall on the water pump so I called the dealer and the said there was no recall and it would cost me $600 to fix it. do you know when that recall was?
  • aronoakleyaronoakley Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend just bought a new Jetta about a month ago and we've been fighting the same problems. It's been to the dealer 5 times now and the rattles are still there. They are better but still there. They just keep adding "foam" in the doors. They've also damaged the door panels and left grease stains in all over from the repairs. We just dropped it off last night and told them we're driving the loaner, which is a upgraded model, until we're happy ours.

    Also, have you noticed excessive buffeting when the sunroof is open? They told us there is no fix for that other than rolling the windows down.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I dont beleive there was ever a recall on the waterpump. You did not say how many miles are on your 2001 Jetta but I am certain that the $600 included replacing the timing belt, idler wheel and waterpump. It may be a poor idea to tear the engine all apart just to replace the waterpump and then have to replace the rest of the stuff in the not-to-distant future. It is the LABOR that to get in to that area which costs the most.
  • am01am01 Member Posts: 2
    my jetta has 74 thousand miles. I work on all my cars but this is the first foreign car I have had and it seems like it wouldn't be to difficult but I haven't been able to find a mechanics manual.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    DIfficulty- laborwize.... nothing hard
    Difficulty- SKILL wize... if the timing belt is not installed properly, the engine can become a boat-anchor. (improperly timed camshaft can cause pistons to hit the valves.)

    If you are going to do it yourself. Do some more research on the internet. There are "kits" available that have all necessarrry parts. (costing much less than all the parts from a dealership) Many folks use only waterpumps with METAL impellers because of the problems with the plastic ones.
  • longborderdlongborderd Member Posts: 3
    I've been meaning to come back reply what the fix was. It was a faulty ignition switch. the electrical portion of the switch went haywire and caused all kinds of problems. I took it to my local mechanic and it ran me about $250. That'll fix the problem. And your car will be good as new.
  • longborderdlongborderd Member Posts: 3
    It was indeed the ignition switch.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    > if the timing belt is not installed properly, the engine can become a boat-anchor. (improperly timed camshaft can cause pistons to hit the valves.)

    If you have a 1.8T engine or a multi-valve engine (interference engine), that is definitely an issue. If you have the 2.0L 8-valve engine (most 8-valve engines are non-interference), the worst thing that can happen is you will be stranded on the side of the road, but at least you will still have an engine (once a new timing belt is installed, that is...)..
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    What makes you think that the 2.0 is a NON interference engine? I KNOW many VW engines areINTERFERENCE design. (My 8-valve included)

    Your statement suggesting that most 8-valve engines are NONinterference is just plain wrong. The number of valves has nothing to do with it. It is the DESIGN that does.

    BTW: The 1.8T is an AUDI engine... not a VW engine.

    In any case, the fact still remains that if one is not familear with the tools-n-techniques needed to install a timing belt, it is not wise to attempt to replace the waterpump.
  • nitonito Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Jetta that the shift gear indicator light (next to the speedometer) does not match the gear the car is actually on. This causes the car not to start. It is an intermittent problem which I think may be electrical (relay ?). It does not happens all the time but I am afraid of getting stuck some where. I usually play with the shifter until I can get it started. Unless the gear indicator light matches the actual gear the car is on (D or N to start) it will not start. Any help?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    >What makes you think that the 2.0 is a NON interference engine? I KNOW many VW engines >areINTERFERENCE design. (My 8-valve included)

    >Your statement suggesting that most 8-valve engines are NONinterference is just plain wrong. >The number of valves has nothing to do with it. It is the DESIGN that does.

    Let's see - Based on the fact that I've been an auto mechanic with several VW engine rebuilds under my belt, the fact that I've been driving water-cooled VWs for almost 25 years, the fact that I've snapped a couple of timing belts over the years on my 1.5Liter 1975 Scirocco and my 1.8 liter 1987 VW Golf GT with no valve/piston damage, and the fact that I have a network of VW mechanics and dealership service departments who also confirm that the 8v engines (1.5 liters through the recent VW 2.0 liter) are NON-INTERFERENCE designs (while the 16-valve and 20-valve designs are INTERFERENCE engines), I prefer to stand by my statement and the statements of professional mechanics.

    Do you have a mechanical background? Have you done engine rebuilds and the like? Tell the professionals they're just plain wrong - and they will more than likely dismiss your comments as coming from an "armchair mechanic". Do some research, then get back to me. :shades:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Mr 600kgolfgt,

    I did not question your mechanical aptitude. Many 8V engines are interference design (My 8valve VW TDI included). I am glad to hear that you have confirmed that the 2.0L is NONinterference.... The fact still remains that, in general, the number of valves-per-cylinder is not a good indicator if interference will occour. (on that point, you are still "just plain wrong")

    Since you asked...why yes, I do have a mechanical background, an elecrtonic background and several others. I have also rebuilt many engines over the past 30 years. How many college degrees does it take before I graduate from "armchair mechanic"? (please see my profile for more details)

    Those of us that have actually held pistons in our hands need to stick together. As you allude to, there are too many "armchair mechanics" who give bogus advice to the unknowing.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    > . The fact still remains that, in general, the number of valves-per-cylinder is not a good indicator if interference will occour. (on that point, you are still "just plain wrong")

    This is what I said:

    If you have a 1.8T engine or a multi-valve engine (interference engine), that is definitely an issue. If you have the 2.0L 8-valve engine (most 8-valve engines are non-interference).

    Here's a link listing the interference and non-interference engines:

    http://www.lambsauto.com/belts.htm

    Take note of the 4 cylinder engines with 8 valves (majority are SOHC). If you see an asterisk next to it, that denotes an interference engine. Otherwise, it's a free-running (non-interference engine).

    Now - you see my statement, and a link with data supporting my argument.

    I rest my case.... :shades:
  • jetta4jetta4 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2004 jetta GT wagon and after just 6000 miles (I usually only drive short distances) and 17 months of driving, the malfunction indicator light went on. It started roughly a few times but was fine after that. I took it to the dealer and was told that my fuel injectors were dirty. Although I don't drive it that much, I have been adding fuel injector cleaner every 2-3 months and use 89 octance (as recommended). The dealer suggested that I come in once a year to have the fuel injection system cleaned ( ($150 -$200 job)!! It sounds like a scam to me. Can anyone give me some advise or suggestions? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would get a second opinion from another dealership or mechanic that specializes in VWs or European cars. Don't necessarily take the service department's word as gospel. If it is a result of bad injectors (unless the car has been driven to the ends of the earth and back) , a 2004 should still be under warranty - full, limited or otherwise.

    Short of that, I would use a bottle of Red Line fuel system cleaner or Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner in conjunction with a tankful of premium (Sunoco, Shell, BP (Amoco Ultimate)) before I would even think of having the fuel injection system cleaned. Exhaust those possibilities first before committing to the more expensive procedures.

    Oh, and you might want to take it out on the highway for longer drives every once in a while... :shades:
  • jayjettajayjetta Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 97 vw jetta 2.0l and need to replace the water pump. Which water pump do I need for this car? Do I have a 30mm or 40mm pump hub?

    vin # is V W X A 8 1 H 1 V M 1 2 3 7 5 3 4

    #1-Water Pump
    30mm Hub, With Gasket
    9 bolt
    ------------------

    #2-Water Pump
    W/ Housing
    30mm hub/25mm hose connections. For gas vehicles, when replacing a pump with a 40mm hub, also use 055 121 031D, diesel vehicles require pulley 068 121 031K. *Pre 1984 models require 027 121 063C Hose*

    I buy my parts from this site:

    http://parts.carpartsemergency.com/

    I have replaced water pumps on many cars, but never a VW. Are there any tips or pointers related to working on VW in particular?
  • jettaracerjettaracer Member Posts: 11
    I think there was probably a recall or something defective about the water pump, b/c I took my 99 jetta in for the same problem– water pump shattered into pieces - and it was free. Only paid $9 for a road test. It might have some sort of warranty, I'm not sure. But I didn't ask any questions, b/c it was free. :)
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Here's a site that I've been using for years to that will have the particular part for your vehicle without all the guesswork:

    http://www.germanautoparts.com

    Here's a link to the cooling system parts for your Jetta - broken down by year, chassis number and on certain models, the VIN#

    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Cooling/

    I highly recommend this site. They have the items in stock, are reliable, reputable, and usually have your order out the door the same business day....
  • sandrocksandrock Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8T that is doing the same thing. When I first start the car the coolant light comes on and stays blinking. The coolant tank shows that the level is well above minimum.. . unless it was done at a dealer as a part of regular service nothing has been added to the coolant tank. Could there be a loose connector or mineral buildup in the tank? I am 150 miles from the nearest dealer and they tell me that there is no guarntee that I will not damage the car if I drive it to them to get it repaired. Any suggestions?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This questoin has been asked and answered MANY MANY times.

    A BLINKING coolant lamp indicates low fluid in the resivour. You may add up to a cup of distilled water to fix it. If more fluid than that is needed, be sure to use ONLY G12 antifreeze.
  • jayjettajayjetta Member Posts: 2
    thank you :)
  • bcangstbcangst Member Posts: 1
  • tjones1tjones1 Member Posts: 3
    We just bought a new Jetta 2.5 this week. I don't perceive any problems with the workmanship, etc. True, the engine was made in Mexico, but I'll bet that your mechanic didn't tell you that the transmission was made in Japan. No matter where it was built, it's still designed with German engineering, and THAT'S why I bought one. The fit, finish, etc. both in and out appear to be of excellent quality. And when you shut the door, all you hear is the reassuring sound of a door shutting tightly ,and no rattles, squeaks, bumps, etc of any kind. Also, judging from the mileage that you said you had on your old VW, you must not put alot of miles on a car in a year. I'd be willing to gamble on a new Jetta, especially with the new safety ratings it received...
  • raffqraffq Member Posts: 1
    Hello
    I just bought a 2000 jetta and it came with no key. I would like to get one of those remotes with switchable blade on ebay but i am supossed to know the HLO #
    and I have no idea what that is or how to find out.
    thanks for your help
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    How are you starting the car with no key?
  • tweezergrltweezergrl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Jetta. I have done the regular maintenance and repairs as necessary. I do know that I need a water line replaced. A few weeks ago, I went to start my car and at first no lights went on acting as though the battery was dead. The lights did come on but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a clicking sound. I left the car for a few days untouched intending to deal with it. Upon returning, it started up immediately. It drives a bit sluggish, and I have not been driving it more than 5 miles a day for fear of being stranded. Does this sound like I need a new starter? Thanks!
  • rodgers2rodgers2 Member Posts: 1
    My wife was driving our 2001 VW JETTA GLS today (that we purchased new in Sept. 2000 & has 50k miles on it) & the drivers side window simply 'fell'. When she tried to use the power window switch to put it back up- it was non-responsive. Does anybody have any experience with this problem? We have a scheduled appointment @ 8am on Saturday at the local VW Dealer. Thanks.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Very commen problem with Jetta's. Caused by cheap plastic window regulators.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Before you have the starter looked at, I would have the alternator tested and the voltage regulator checked to make sure it is keeping your battery at the proper charge levels (12-14 volts). The voltage regulator, which is located on the back of the alternator (the cover will have to be removed to access it) has two copper brushes which ride on a copper ring on the back of the alternator. The following conditions will determine whether you may need a new alternator (anywhere between $170 and $250) or just a voltage regulator (approx. $70):

    You will need a new voltage regulator if:
    - The brushes on the voltage regulator are worn down to 1/8" or less
    - The copper ring on the alternator doesn't show excessive wear (deep grooves
    caused by the voltage regulator brushes).

    You will need a new alternator if:
    - The copper ring on the alternator shows excessive wear (regardless of the condition
    of the brushes on the voltage regulator).

    If both the alternator and voltage regulator are in good condition, the next step is to have your battery tested. If your battery is in good condition, the next step is to have the starter tested.

    Hope this helps.
  • lottomanlottoman Member Posts: 1
    At what interval should you change the timing belt on a TDI? This is expensive and the dealer says every 40,000 miles. Cost of maintaining this car exceeds savings from going diesel!
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