Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

ruking1 · November 2005

It does not sound like you are sliding around turns. Given proper alignment, tire pressure, and mechanical conditon, the most likely reason is driver behavior. Driving with an eye to more smooth and efficient operation wouuld be the key to making those tires last longer.

skm4 · November 2005

I have a 2002 Jetta. I have had an engine light problem for quite a while now. I had it in to a VW dealer mechanic and almost $1000 later...the engine light is still on. It started off by coming on for a while and then going off for a while. Now it is on most of the time, but I did discover that if I park on an incline (like a steep driveway) the light will go off and stay off for a few days. Does anyone have any ideas on what would cause this? It is very frustrating. If you take it in to a mechanic, they try a few things that do not work and charge for it...
???
skm

gaporras · November 2005

I don't know if you have tried this yet but replacing your gas cap could solve the problem. The only thing that should be affected by parking on a hill is your fuel and possibly brakes. Since you are getting no other indications for it being the brakes, try replacing your gas cap. If ther is aflucuation or leak in tank pressure, it will set off the light.
Hope this helps.....

bpeebles · November 2005

answer is VAG-COM !

skm4 · November 2005

Worth a try....I hope gas caps are not expensive, it this does not take care of the problem. Thanks for the suggestion though.

skm4 · November 2005

What is "VAG-COM"???

skm4 · November 2005

OK,I FOUND OUT WHAT VAG-COM IS...THANKS!

skm4 · November 2005

Ok, not the gas cap causing the engine light problem...any other suggestions??

dancerman · November 2005

2002 VR6 GLX ran OE 205/55R16 Continentals 45k miles (could have gotten 5k miles more) and replaced with same. Now at 66k with similar performance. Driving style and location (city/highway) makes all the difference. Fast starts and stops and aggressive cornering eat tread.

baylazz · November 2005

What grade of oil are you using? I once had the stuck engine light problem on my Jetta when using any grade other than 5W30 and that's what the dealer also told me.

karmenghia · November 2005

We have the same car (98 Jetta wolfsburg), same problem. I was just researching to find a solution. The car is at the shop having the shock plug wires replaced as I type.
We tend to have more trouble on rainy days. Do you?

baylazz · November 2005

I have a 1999 Jetta GLS and for the second time since I bought it new in 1999, the rear center seatbelt has locked up and can't be used. It has been extremely rare that ANYONE has used the rear center seat,so it isn't failing from overuse. It seems as if others have had this same problem. The first time this occurred the dealer replaced the seatbelt assembly at no charge to me, but this time they are balking at that and I've called VW Customer Service requesting this as I believe that this is a product defect. Would be interested to hear from others who have had a similar problem.

jettin_gti · November 2005

Multiple problems: (Continued on #4164)

(Emphasis before I began is that no modifications have been done...purely stock vehicle)

When vehicle was new (1-10K) in 2000, I bought to the attention of the dealer at least 20-21 things that I thought may be problems in the long run. They ALL came back diagnosed, "no problem found" or "can't duplicate problem." -- Keep in mind ALL documented including type written responses stating the technicians responses on VW dealer letterhead

The problem ranged from:
1) Slight pull to the left
2) Check engine light (Emissions Workshop)
3) Low rumble behind the dash when AC is on
4) Mirror does not retain its' settings when going put in reverse (feature on VR6 model),
5) Cruise control light
7) Etc.,

Commenting on 3 of these 5 things (even though there were a lot more):
The slight pull to the left was diagnosed at 19K as a "potential" problem with my tire to "I hit a pothole" after mentioning this problem at 3k, 6K, 9K and 12K. Then they told me that I was "out of warranty and that I had a problem with the tire and that I would have to take it up with Goodyear. I did as VW dealer suggested and they replaced the tire. However, now at 65K, the problem still lingers.

The cruise control light has never come on. I was told that this model vehicle does not have this feature - case closed. Now I am told that it has to be replaced for this to work and that I would be charged, even though I have a diagnostic receipt Again ALL written on VW dealership letterhead that stated "no problem found! :mad:

Check Engine light on/off intermittently, "no problem found" or "cannot duplicate problem." Only to find out later that if they disconnected the battery for 15 minutes, the light goes out. They give the vehicle back to me and "things are fine." Yea, right --- case closed. :mad:

As a result of this, the check engine light has been on for a while, but the car has been running fine. Everyone (all technicians) have always confirmed that I had nothing wrong with the vehicle and that there was "no problem found." Therefore, I said (to myself), well "okay" then as long as there appears to be nothing wrong, "okay." Bear in mind though that only 4K miles have passed since the dealership has mentioned it on my receipt. I have been very frustrated that those VW technicians are not able to find out anything, at least when I was within warranty. :confuse:

Now, on Friday November 11th, my ASR and EPC light both came on simultaneously, while the "Check Engine" light was still on. I stopped the car and started it again and they went off, except for the "check engine" light. So I said, maybe it's oil, since I was 2K overdue (yea right!!). :confuse:

I took it into the dealer in MD. To make a long story short and to enlighten you further, I have kept up with my oil changes, 10K maintenance, 40K and now my 60K maintenance and now comes the "best part." Now, after the diagnosis by an "expert" VW technician who has 3 years experience (VW standard), he presents me with a bill in excess of $2K, (let me break it down for you --- that's $2058.00). That is correct Two Thousand Dollars and fifty eight cents. :mad:

Now, I have failures in both O2 sensors, mass air flow sensor, ignition coil, spark plugs are fouled and need to be replaced, fuel system service, clean throttle body, and a vacuum valve. Now, for those 'experts' who are reading my thread, please do not tell me that I have "bad gas" and leave it at that. I need to know more, otherwise I can sell it to you for a small fee, since more than likely I will have the same problem at an even higher mileage.

I was told to call the VW customer service located in Detroit (for those of you who want it 800-822-8987) and I was on the line with a rather nice gentleman who mediates my case with "his superiors." From this discussion, he managed to have the dealership pay for the mass air flow sensor, while VW Corporation paid for $600 (notice I said VW Corporation and not the VW marked dealer - I will explain later). Even though, he was well-mannered, he made me feel that I was at fault and that he was doing me a favor and that I owed him. I mentioned to him everything that I explain to all of you, but he kept harping on the fact that I was out of warranty and that the same dealer diagnosed the "check engine" light being on 4K earlier and said that I did nothing about it.

The VW Corporation representative also told me of a VS (these are ALL the letters) emissions recall that I was not aware of. He said that he would have the dealer to run this ("software update") on my vehicle to see if it would erase the flags from the "check engine" display and clear the system. Now before I took the vehicle into the dealership, I had done some homework on the net to find 3 recalls for my vehicle. Well, check this out, the recalls that I found for my vehicle were done, except one, but the one that was not was for the 'baby-seat' (you all know the one). I gave him the numbers that I had and he said the VW do not use the same codes. Here is the catch:

I asked him how long this VS recall had been issued and he told me for a while. I asked him why the dealer(s) NEVER said anything, and he said that they are not obligated to say ANYTHING about any recalls notices. It is the responsibility of the owner and that it is sent in the mail. Well, guess what! I have moved, like anyone else (for starters), but more importantly what does this sound like... how the (franchised) dealership gets its' $$$!! I can only wonder if this VS recall would have actually addressed my problem long ago, like 5 years ago, or maybe even 4K miles ago. Oh, I forgot, 4K miles ago, I would have had to pay $93 for a system diagnosis.... whatever!!!

Questions:
1) How can all of the problems suddenly pop-up with 4K?
2) What about all of the times that I mentioned this problem and no one did anything about it (I have all of the paperwork)?
3) VW certifies its' technicians after going to school for 3 years and after granting them a few certifications?
4) ALL dealers are franchised, which I will explain regarding VW Corporation vs. VW dealers. VW Corporation (calling the 800#) will tell you that all dealers are independently owned. In case you don't know what that means, it means that each dealer can set their own prices, make up their own rules, and can also diagnose problems differently -- that's right. This is why we ALL have similar issues, but different answers, based on what the 'expert' technicians are telling us. Another example of this is my owners manual (written) tells me that I can change my oil at 7K, the dealer tells me 5K, but gas station mechanics will tell you 3K (who work on older VW). (Sounds like VW (Corporation & dealers) may began to have a few lawsuits, beginning with me) in the near future.

Continued on #4164

jettin_gti · November 2005

See response 4162.

jettin_gti · November 2005

Con't:

If the dealer can make up their own prices, create their own guidelines, then how can there ever be a standard? There isn't any anymore. This, again, is why we are all being told different things to similar problems.

Please, if you are a VW technician, no offense, but this is what VW Corporation and the VW service dealers in the MD, DC, and VA are telling me -- (hearing it from the horses' mouth again from, VW Corporation.)

My concern now is how I will pay $2058 (minus the $800 dollars in deduction) for my 5 year old Jetta with only 64K, speaking of which just got done paying for it in August. ha ha ha ha... how ironic!!!

I personally think that German engineering has teamed up with American capitalism and has began to demonstrate that they can make just as much $$$ as American and Japanese automakers by the induction of Microsoft patches from the computer-generation of bogus "error codes." The next car that I purchase WILL not be a VW, Audi, or Lamborghini, since they are also owned by VW. (I may be mistaken in the names owned by VW), but I am almost certain). If I am not certain about these names, I am most certain about what I have learned about VW Corporation, and the unknown, nameless, franchised dealerships over the past couple of days.

I hope that this clears the air for any of you frustrated "genuine" (I hope that VW symbol on your car is real) VW owners. There is more to this story, but I'm sure that you are probably just as frustrated and pissed off (excuse me) with your VW as I am with mine, so I'll stop!

In the meantime, I have loved my Jetta, it's been fun, fast and furious (no mods), but it may be time to turn it in, at 64K (yes, that is only sixty four thousand miles) and continue to drive my 1991 VW GTI 8v, with 216,000 miles! Never had to spend more that $1200 at any time, unless it was for tires/rims/stereo more than 15 years ago.

dabdug · November 2005

I live in an area with winding and hilly roads and do most of my driving on secondary and state roads. I will be the first to admit our driving style is agressive. I'm going to have 90,000 mile Michelin Hydroedge tires install as soon as they come in. Has anyone else on this forum ever had these tires and if so how did they perform?

bpeebles · November 2005

I find it interesting that you say "only 64,000 miles"

My friend -- that is a LONG way for any car to travel and it is not unusual to have to fix a thing or 2 along the way.

It was not all that long ago (1980s)that a typical car at 50,000 miles meant that it was worn out and ready for the scrapyard. (back then, VW was able to travel 90,000 miles 8-)

skm4 · November 2005

I checked, they are putting in Mobil 10w30. When I have the oil changed again, I will ask them to use 5w30. I assumed, which one should never do, that they knew which oil to use.
Thanks for the response. I will sure give it a try.

bpeebles · November 2005

Most automobiles sold in the last 10 years recommend 5W30. (mainly to meet MPG claims) I find it kinda scary that many folks are still using 10W30.

The tolerances in modern engines are DESIGNED for the thinner oil unless the ambient tempartures average 90-100F.

VW has recommended 5W30 since at least 1976 (my first VW Scirocco) As far as I am aware, VW has never recommended 10W30 in their water-cooled gasoline engines.

I once went into an "AutoZone" looking for 5W30 oil... they had at least 200 quarts of 10W30 of various brands. BUT ABSOLUTELY NO 5W30 IN THE STORE!! (I would hope they have changed their ways by now.)

roar1 · November 2005

Does anyone know what VW recommends for the timing belt replacement on a 2000 Jetta ( base 2.0 engine ). Is it 60,000 or 80,000 or 100,000 miles. This info. is not in the glove box manual for some unknown reason.

Thanks in advance!!

ps: is there a website that has this info. ???

Mr_Shiftright · November 2005

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487

vinsnash · November 2005

I have a similar problem with an '03' with 50k miles. It does follow a pattern. The light appears to come on when the fuel level drops to about 7/8 tank just after a fill. The light was staying on until I refilled the tank when it would go out. The gas cap does have a warning that it should be turned until the click or the MIL Light might come on. I don't know what MIL (Motor Indicator Light?) means. I replaced the gas cap and the light stayed off through many refills but now it's coming on again. The last time I just unscrewed the gas cap, re screwed it on until the click and the light went out.

I've made several appointments to have it check but each time the appointment rolled around the light was out. It's nuts!

bpeebles · November 2005

The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) can come on for about 50 different reasons. Unless you KNOW that it is the Evaperative Emmissions that is causing it to come on...then dont waste your time focusing on the gascap.

Perhaps if you keep in mind the "diagnostic" which is executed for the Evaperative Emmissions you would have a better chance of isolating the issue.

Basically, a slight pressure is pumped into the air above the fuel in the tank. If this pressure cannot be maintained (leaks out) then the MIL will come on.

BTW: You should be turning the gascap to click AT LEAST one time. (I usually give it about 4 -7 clicks to make sure it is well seated)

casinospani · November 2005

I have a 2002 jetta that the engine light is on and I also find the car to be burning oil after 5000 km there will be no oil left in the engine i also have a hard time starting it if it has been running for a long period of time

toni6 · November 2005

someone changed my battery yesteday..NOT THE DEALER and now my Jetta drives CRAZY! He said maybe I need some kind of codes..does anyone know how much this will cost? and where? I live in Houston~ It is not under warranty and I can't afford the dealer

nells · November 2005

want to know what to do should i get the car or not its in good shape no rust runs good not as quick as my wifes 97 sunfire se so ive been doing alot of reading trying to figure out if i should get it or not its not a certified preown but the dealer seems ok i hate car salesmen one owner carfax ok
no funny noise no smoke shifting feels alot better than the sunfire no slop i need a car for school for 2 years cant afford lots of breakdowns schools about 40mi each way this car is in my price range will it work or nickel and dime me in to death :confuse:

jeffyscott · November 2005

Jettas are nice cars, but not the cheapest to buy. If you can't afford breakdowns, it seems kind of risky to be buying a car with 113,000 miles.

Used american cars are a lot cheaper than imports. If you bought a domestic model, you could probably save some money on the purchase price (which would leave something for the inevitable repairs) and/or buy one with lower miles.

I have had a couple Ford Contours (Mercury Mystique is pretty much the same car) it is a nice to drive car, that is pretty comparable to the Jetta in size, handling, etc. These are also not known as the most reliable cars either, but Edmunds indicates average retail is maybe about $1000-$2000 less than Jetta. Or, again according to edmunds, a 1998 contour with about 70,000 miles should be comparable in price to the Jetta with 113,000.

jlkil · November 2005

Now I've had my '02 1.8T jetta for about 3 1/2 years and it now has 89,000 miles on it. Since going out of warranty, I've had:

brake light failure, my car wasn't included in the recall for that.

2nd set of rotors placed on back

the strange noise in the rear that sounds like busted shocks, but they never found it under warranty.

Now the CD changer is giving some error code and I can't get the CD magazine out

the trunk latch is broken

add to all this the NUMEROUS problems that occurred under warranty, most of them seem to be common with Jetta owners (coolant light, firmware upgrades, window falls out), I don't remember them all.

to think I swapped a '99 sonoma which was starting to experience some issues at 37,000 miles for this. I see the new passat commercials and have to wonder who would buy a VW.

nells · November 2005

thank you for replying see my mindset is it easy for me to see why someone would get rid of the jetta the miles 113000
why would someone get rid of a contour at just 50000 or a little more i ve never owned a new car but if i did buy a new car i would keep it till it died. so when i go to a car dealer
and see chevy malibus and buick centurys or chrysler concords with 60 or 70 thounsad miles red flags go up someone went and paid good money to get a car that they only kept for a couple
years red flag i love to drive i dont beat on my cars and i will never buy a ford or any car with a auto tranny especially
with auto overdrive ive had a vw before it was a 1987 vw scirocco i think it was a 1.8 8v good car i hated having to get rid of it i am hopeing the 98 jetta gt 5 sp will do the same.i also had a 93 legacy wagon i bought it with 130000 mi on it it was the best car we ever had it died 4 years later with 175000 mi always passed emmisions only repais normal ware and tare never left me straned like other cars iv onwed so i gess what im trying to say i that if the car was desently taken care of it will run but when you buy a used car you never know what you are getting no matter how many miles it has on it . anyone with a 98 gt give me the rundown what should i be looking for

toni6 · November 2005

Learn to speak up! know matter what...they should have called you and at least told you how much it was going to be WOW..again speak up..yes you just wanted to get out of there~and they know that...

toni6 · November 2005

Do you know much it cost to change the codes after a battery change? I own a Jetta and it drives so bad after a friend put a knew battery in~

manifold · November 2005

I just traded my 01 Jetta GL at 64k as well. Problems I've had with the car

1)Channging head or tailight bulbs every 6 months
2)Theres that grease that keeps comming out below the driver's door
3)Rattles, rattles, rattles
4) CD player is funky sometimes

Despite those, I do miss it. It was a great car and never died on me. Drove it thru the worst rain and snow. If VW hadnt screwed with the look of the car I wouldve gotten the 06.

fish8 · November 2005

Nells: In order to make your posts easy to read please do us a favor and use proper punctuation (PERIODS). It is very difficult to read and follow. In order to get a response from others, please make your posts legible.

I would avoid this Jetta with 113,000 miles on it.

runamuck · November 2005

I have a couple of basic questions regarding glazing. I recently had my car serviced at the dealership and they advised that I needed to replace my brake rotors due to the glazing. I did not have time to ask particulars at the dealership so...
1 - What is glazing and what causes it?
2 - What are the consequences if I don't attend to it right away?

Thank you.

ruking1 · November 2005

1. Improper bedding of the pads and rotors when new.

b. Excessive use (WAY PAST heat range passed @ what the pads are rated) they in effect become gooey and glaze over.

c. improper cooling

d combination of:

2. It diminishes your ability to stop.

toni6 · November 2005

HOW MUCH DOES THIS COST?? MY BROTHER PUT A KNEW BATTERY IN MY JETTA~MY RADIO WORKS BUT MY CAR DRIVES CRAZY NOW??

runamuck · November 2005

Thanks for your response.

Aside from someone looking at the pads/rotors, are there any other indications that would alert me that I have a glazing issue? i.e. sounds, handling, etc.

Thanks.

ruking1 · November 2005

Using the technical data, the best is to pop off the wheel to take a look see at the rotors.

Popping off the pads is realy easy, but I would hesistate to say go ahead and do it, for it IS amd CAN BE a HUGE safety issue. This can be further complicated if you do not know what you are doing OR encounter problems.

Mr_Shiftright · November 2005

Please don't use CAP LOCKS...members tend to ignore such posts because they are too hard to read.

Thanks

Shifty the Host

runamuck · November 2005

Hi...I'm assuming that this message is in response to the "glazing" issue. So I gather that the only way to know that there is glazing is if someone looks at it. Is that right?

Anyway, thanks for your advice. Seeing that I didn't even know what glazing was, I won't be popping off anything anytime soon. I'll be taking my Jetta in to my guys at the garage.

Thanks!

bpeebles · November 2005

First of all, Rotors dont "glaze" --- pads may "glaze". In fact you WANT the surface of the rotor to be smooth. If you are using Carbon-based pads, then part of the process of breaking-in the pads causes some carbon to transfer to the rotor surface. This actually improves braking performance.

With todays modern pad materials, it is VERY rare for "glazing" to occour. I guess that dragging brakes or "riding" the brake-pedal might "glaze" the pads. Some people notice squeeling brakes when the pads ae "glazed".

It is trivial to deglaze pads with some fine sandpaper upside-down on a mirror or other glass surface. 100-grit about 10-20 light strokes.

Some beleive that using the brakes too lightly can contrubute to the APPEARANCE of "glazing". In such conditions - perform some VERY HEAVY breaking to "let the smoke out" (about 3-4 HEAVY braking from 70-down to 5 MPH) follow with at least 20 minutes of continous driving to allow things to cool-down evenly. (dont sit at a stoplight with hot brakes!!!) Once things have cooled back down, your brakes will feel MUCH stronger than before.

If you do not feel as if your braking is compromized and am asking about "glazing" because you sensed that the mechanic was trying to pull the wool over your eyes... your senses may be correct. - I would suggest you ignore the whole idea of "glazing" and enjoy your car.

I have posted this URL here about 50 times previous... I guess it is time to post it again:
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html

http://www.khurramweb.com/cycling_articles/title/Brakes.html
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/BMW-K100RT-page/faultdiagnosis/48tm56_brake_problemsFD.htm

rmjetta · November 2005

The problem with starting in the rain was the coil. I found out that vw had a problem with the coils for a couple of years.

meklenk · November 2005

I have a 2002 2.0L GLS with 65,000 miles (not a turbo anything). The check engine light has flicked on and off a few times. My hubby borrowed a OBD reader and it gave him a trouble code of "Ignition coil circuit malfunction". Having read alot on the internet about coil problems, we were all set to order a replacement coil and fix before we head out on our Thanksgiving driving. However, after reading several posts on this board regarding "phantom check engine lights", I'm second-guessing replacing it in favor of bringing it to the mechanic on Monday (they are completely booked with everyone getting their cars checked before T-giving driving). The car is driving fine, no problems whatsoever, but I hesitate to take it on a 5-hour drive with a check engine light on... Just kind of wanted to get a second-opinion.

Thanks
Mary, ATL, GA

600kgolfgt · November 2005

Check the coil for cracks. If you have as much as a hairline crack in it (moisture will find its way in there), replace the coil. If you or your husband are mechanically inclined, you can pick up the coil (price range is usually between $70 and $150) at either the dealer ($$$), local import parts store (less $$), or order it online (even less $). The only other thing you will need to buy is a 6-point Torx socket set to remove the coil from its mounting point (usually at the firewall on the transmission side of the engine compartment)...

meklenk · November 2005

Thanks for the advice. I am planning on replacing it myself - none of the local parts store have the part, so I am ordering it online and having it overnighted (still cheaper than getting from the dealer). Seems like a very easy part to replace.

pruzink · November 2005

There are certain "fudge factors" that your engine learns over time; changing the battery probably reset them to the default values. I'm not sure what you mean by your car drives "crazy", but I know that if I reset the DTCs (digital trouble codes) on our VWs that for a while the engine idles a 160 RPM higher, and the air flow correction factors get reset to default values. Hopefully by the time you read this your car will be behaving "normal". Other than possibly needing the security code for your radio, I'm not aware of any other special codes that you would need after changing a battery.

pruzink · November 2005

I just replaced the coil pack on my daughter's 2.0L, engine code AVH 01 Jetta. She wasn't getting any codes but when it was raining out she had an occasional studder at idle. First I replaced the ignition wires ($87), but that made no differance. The coilpack was $175 from the dealer, but I have seen them online for $100. If the car is running good, I wouldn't worry about driving it over the weekend. I'm not really positive if reading the code with a generic OBD-II reader is 100% accurate for all codes on VWs however. If someone in your area has Vagcom, that program is specifically designed to read all VW codes. If it truly is an ignition circuit malfunction, you really don't want to ignore it too long because that high voltage spark needs to go to the right place at the right time or other parts in the circuit can end up getting damaged. Do you only get the check engine lights when it is wet out or does it happen all of the time. I'm pretty sure that there are sprays that you can use on the coil to improve its electrical resistance if its only on rainy days. When I just replaced mine, I had to remove the vacuum pump (quite easy, just 3 small nuts holding it on), and the 3 fasteners for the coil pack were a #5 metric allen (I think).

bpeebles · November 2005

You really need to provide more info. What year is your VW?

If it has drive-by-wire.. .then you most likely need to calibrate the throttlebody after changing the battery. (The flapper in the throttlebody needs to be "re-trained" to be in sync. with the accellerator pedal.)

Again -- if you would please provide more details. (instead of saying "drives crazy") We may be able to help you better.

meklenk · November 2005

I can't be sure whether it was raining the first time the check engine light came on, but the second time it came on it definitely was raining. We did use a generic OBD reader, andI'll be honest, the code that we got out of the reader did not match any of the codes in the Haynes manual we have for the car. I had initially ruled it out as "maybe the codes were for older model Jettas", but maybe it is what you are talking about, that the generic OBD reader is wrong? Which would mean I'm back at square one if that's the case. I've already ordered the part off the internet (a little more expensive than you found, but I have a different engine code than your daughters'), and its easily returnable, so in the meantime I'll try and find someone with vagcom to see if the code comes out any differently. The husband said "we can just run water over the part and see if the engine sputters" but if its not driving any differently now (rain or not) I don't think pouring water over the part will make any difference. Plus it makes me a tad nervous. But yes, it does look very easy to replace, probably one of the easier repairs I've made on any car.

bpeebles · November 2005

The easist way to test the ignition has not changed for 50 years. With engine idling, using "spritzer" bottle with water and moisten the ignition wires - then the coil.

If the engine falters at all, there is somthing that needs attention. I regularly remove all plug wires and wash them in soapy water (dish detergent), after rinsing and thorough drying, use a LIGHT layer of silicone grease on all boots where they contact the coil. (to help seal out water.)

I have also removed ignition coils and washed in soapy water. (the layer of grunge on the coil may cause misfiring)

If your enginge falters when the ignition coil is spritzed with water, then install the new coil you have orderd and try the "spritz-test" again.

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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