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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'll try and find someone with vagcom

    This might help with that:

    http://www.steve-hall.com/cgi-bin/VAG-Locator.pl
  • jettaturbofanjettaturbofan Member Posts: 6
    For 2000 Jetta 1.8 Turbo - it's 105,000 miles. If you are anywhere near those miles - have it replaced along with the water pump and the tensioner.

    Mine just broke at 112,000 and had to replace the cylinder head along with the belt, water pump and tensioner = $4000.

    The belt does not really break - the reason I was given was that if the teeth are worn out - they lose the grip and it stalls the engine and the pistons get the timing wrong and the valves get bent - so the big BIG BIG $$$ bill. :cry:

    check out edmunds - tips and advice section

    http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/maintenance.do?step=step2&year=2000&make=Volkswagen&mod- el=Jetta&style=4+Dr+GLS+Turbo+Sedan&mileage=105000&engine=4ITCG1.8&transmission=MANUAL&zip- =30097&synpartner=edmunds&tid=edmunds...mnt.step2.18.Volkswagen*

    I learnt it the hard way and interestingly enough had the spark plugs replaced earlier in the day and the service advisor was complimenting on the maintenance of my car and the same evening it stalled on me.

    cheers
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
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  • casinospanicasinospani Member Posts: 3
    Please help

    I have a 2002 jetta gls 2.0L it has 160 000km on it and i find
    that it is burning oil after 5000km there will be no oil left in the engine also my temp gage on the dash board does not move at all even if the car is warm and to boot i have a hard time restarting my car when i go call to call for my job (i do
    service for business) i am in and out all day please respond with some help :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you sure it is "BURNING" the oil? (do you see smoke out the exhaust?)

    Oil consumption is not uncommon for the 2.0L engine during 2001 and 2002. As long as you keep it topped up, there is no harm done. My daughter has one of those...she just carries 5W40 oil in the trunk and topps up the oil at every fuel fillup.

    Allowing the oil to get so low that the oil pressure light comes on is VERY damaging to the engine. NEVER-EVER allow it to get that low. If oil is allowed to get so low that the oil-pressure lamp comes on... you WILL damage the engine and it WILL start to "BURN" oil. (smoke out the exhaust)You have been duly warned

    ==========
    As for the temp guage, you really need a VAG-COM to diagnose that. If you want to "shotgun" that problem, replace the engine-temp sender. There were a bunch of bad ones during 2001-2002.

    A faulty engine-temp-sender can cause hard-starting and excessive fuel comsumption. (inside of tailpipe will be BLACK with soot from excessive fuel injected)
  • skm4skm4 Member Posts: 10
    I had the oil changed and made sure they used 5w40. The engine light is still on though. So....is there a way to just turn it off?? Is there any other solution to this problem? I cannot afford to take it in to someone and they do not know what the problem is either and they just "try" different "ideas."
    Thanks....
    skm4
  • thekingtheking Member Posts: 107
    :mad: My dealer told me today that the oil change is $65.00 because they must use synthetic oil. He showed me the info from the VW service bulletin(They use 6 quarts) He is also telling me that seeing my car has low miles I must change every 6 months because I live in an area that can get quite cold then hot(New England). I need feedback.............!
  • jetzig1jetzig1 Member Posts: 1
    I got in to helping the girl next door and her 99 jetta runs like a possible lean condition. we checked for codes it came up with a missfire on all 4 cylinders and o2s switching. also low voltage on the o2s when the fuel return line is restrickted with a pliars it seems to run better. We replaced cables plugs and the coil pack, along w/ fuel filter tested w/ a differtent pressure regulator and new fuel pump.. Same problem ... Heeelllppp!!!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yes VW does recommend synthetic oil. The price I was quoted was also $65. That is not really so bad since after the first two changes it is only once per year or once per 10,000 miles. Also I have read of some dealers charging as much as $120, so I was glad to hear my local dealer is toward the lower end of the price range.

    Not sure why weather changing would mean you have to change oil more often. Read your manual and see what it says. I don't recall reading anything that led me to believe that the normal 12 mo/10,000 mi schedule would not be adequate. I live in WI which has similar weather.

    You can also look at VWs document Choosing the right oil which says:

    Under some circumstances the engine oil should
    even be changed more frequently. Change oil more
    often if you drive mostly short distances, operate the
    vehicle in dusty areas or mostly under stop-and-go
    traffic conditions, or when you use your vehicle
    where temperatures stay below freezing point for
    long periods.

    However it does not seem to define mostly, short distances, or long periods.
  • adrianaadriana Member Posts: 2
    I am having a problem turning on my 2002 Jetta, it marks an Ignition Immobilization sensor light, in other words due to one of the keys being deprogrammed my engine is locked, does anyone know how to unlock it without going to the dealer my warranty is up and it costs a bundle to go recode. PLEASE HELP! Booklet says it will unlock with the proper key but I have tried and no luck! :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    How is it possible that ONE key being "de-programmed" can affect the other (supposedly good)key???

    In any case, the procedure to re-program a key is not too dificult. It involves putting the GOOD key in the ignition and the one to be programmed into the drivers door. (I do not recall the specifics after that.)
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    I am in NH and the dealer recommends that the oil be changed according to the manual (5k, 10k, 20K, 30k, etc.). Many people on this board report that an oil analysis shows there is still ife in the synthetic oil after 10K, so it is not something to worry about. With the TDi, it will look very dirty as soon as it is changed. Again, no worries. Drive away and keep an eye on the oil level!

    As for the level, watch the dipstick. It must be read on BOTH sides as the indented side can show it overfilled, while the other side will show about 1/4 inch lower (or just the right amount). I kept thinking they were putting too much oil in the crankcase until they showed me the toher side of the dipstick (it is weird).

    A change here is $55.00 and they usually send me coupons in the mail for either $10.00 or 10% off a service bill. Keep an eye on the mailings from VW.
  • lanieloolanieloo Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: i am sooo confused! My when i get into the car, i put the key into the ignition, and a chime goes off, (like one to remind you to take out your keys) and it dosnt go off for about 3 min...i have no idea what it is and the dinging is driving me crazy...i dont have any warning lights on my dash....i'm going insane and to top off my matters....my remote entry system dosnt work when i try to lock the car, but it works when i unlock the car...hmmmm...i have nooo idea whats going on and i hope SOMEONE can help me out before i go insane. thankyou!
  • adrianaadriana Member Posts: 2
    Not sure how this happened but the dealer said these things happen ? go figure?
    Anyways, I have tried with the supposedly proper key that is suppose to recode the car systme but no lukc, I have also tried diconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, once it started but when it turned off it didn't start anymore.

    If you or anyone knows the steps I can try to configure the code please let me know, don't want to waste all the money having to take it to the dealer and then its some simple steps, Thanks for the feedback!
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    Hi, back again...As I was stuck in traffic on the highway in bumper to bumper traffic my cars temperature starting rising at a very rapid pace to nearly 260...I immediately pulled off the nearest exit and once I started moving again, the temperature went down. I didn't have to stop the car or anything..It just cooled off on its own. I've been having a horrible time with my car lately and have only had it back from the dealership for about a month now. This is a new problem and one that scared me enough to take the back roads home the entire way. Help...can anyone shed some light as to what could be causing my car to overheat...this is a first...I'm planning to take it to a mechanic (not the VW dealership as I refuse to do any further business with them, unless I have to). I just want to have some insight as to what the problem could be prior to taking it in..thanks for your help!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I think you are saying it is heating up when NOT MOVING and will return to normal if the car is moving.

    This is OBVIOUSLY a problem with the electric fan not working. First thing to check... the fan relay.
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    As always, thank you! You're the best! Thanks again for your help.
  • pegusisunitedpegusisunited Member Posts: 4
    i have owned other cars and the winsheild wipers go "pretty fast" on the fastest setting. but this is my first VW and i didnt know if it was something wrong or there just slow. the medium setting is the same as the fastest and they move pretty slowy across the windsheild. please help because its raining!!!!
  • pegusisunitedpegusisunited Member Posts: 4
    its an 86 VW jetta gl.. sorry i forgot to ad that in
  • new2jettanew2jetta Member Posts: 4
    Check coolant level (when cold) and hoses. Maybe bad water pump, thermostat, or fuses/relays to fans. Be careful because 260 degrees can kill an engine :lemon:
  • new2jettanew2jetta Member Posts: 4
    I'm new to a 2003 Jetta. 1) The yellow engine light went on. Someone told me it may be due to the need for an oil change (hardly believe them). Could this be true with the Jetta? 2) Also, I want to find the plug to run a computer diagnostic test (to see the exact error codes). Will you please share the location of this hook-up? Thank you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The windshield wipers on VWs are known to get 'stickey'. The only real fix is to lubricate the axles where the wipers pivot.
    This needs to be done about every 4-6 years. (depending on how much you use the wipers)

    This task is not as easy as squirting some oil somwhere. You really need to remove the wipers and dis-assemble the pivots. Then thoroughly clean off the crud and grease things up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The computer diagnostic plug is underneath the steering wheel. (just above the clutch pedal below the dashboard)

    I have used my VAG-COM many times and can now get at that plug in the dark by just feeling under the dashboard.
  • etown1etown1 Member Posts: 5
    Hello all, I've got a 2001 1.8T with 65,000. My CEL has been coming on and off for a few thousand miles. I took it to Aamco to pull the codes, but the light had gone off, however they still pulled four codes. After looking them up, they were: Catalyst System,Bank1 Efficiency Below Threshold; Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank1 System too Rich;Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank2 System too Lean; Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose. Also, after the car has warmed up, when i'm at a stop the idle seems to dip down well below 1000. Any thoughts as to what I can do or replace? Heard it might be the O2 sensor. Thanks for the help, i need it!
  • skm4skm4 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2002 Jetta and have had the engine light problem for quite some time now. After spending approx. $1000 at the VW dealership, it is still on.... I always have the oil changed regularly and used the right oil weight...so, that is not the problem.
    Anyway, I just did the diagnostic test this past weekend.
    I was able to use it free of charge at a local Auto Zone, auto parts store. It is very easy to use. You just plug it in...the location is just under the dash on the driver's side. Very easy to get to and like I said..very easy to do. Just right down the error codes, and the guys in the auto parts store will look them up on their computer. My turned out to be ignition coil malfunction..so now I am checking on having that replaced. Hopefully that will solve my ongoing engine light problem.
    skm4 :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Those codes point to the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) Basically what it is saying is that the onboard computer is "confused". The MAF is telling it is too lean and to squirt more fuel into the engine while the O2 sensors are saying "WHOA-- its too rich" coming out the exhaust.

    The MAF has "extended warantee" for most 2000-2001 VWs. (extended warantee 7 years 70K miles)

    I diagnosed this MAF problem with my daughters 2001 Golf using my VAG-COM and suggested she take it to dealership for free replacement of MAF. No troubles since new MAF was installed.
  • etown1etown1 Member Posts: 5
    So, can I just take it to the dealer and ask for the replacement, or will they have to diagnose the problem first? I guess what I'm saying is, is it enough for me to say "I know I have this problem". thanks for the help!
  • wrightflyerwrightflyer Member Posts: 9
    Are you using your seatbelt?
  • new2jettanew2jetta Member Posts: 4
    Thank you! Very cool of you to share your info...
  • new2jettanew2jetta Member Posts: 4
    Thank you! Auto Zone loans out the diagnostic scanner/test in my area as well. Now I know where to look for the plug. This message board is great!
  • jags2jags2 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: Hi, I've a 2003 automatic jetta and here's my problem. When I start the car in the morning (I live in a cold weather city), I keep it running for 5 mins or so, but when I want to put the car on Drive, I can't move the stick, I press the brake pedal and try again but nothing happens. It's very hard and I can't move it. I left the car running for 20 mins and tried again and now it worked just fine. I don't have this problem during the rest of the day, just in the mornings or when it's too cold outside. Any ideas of what could be the problem? Thanks
  • casinospanicasinospani Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much for you help you are right on the mark about the soot in the tail pipe and that is why i thought is was burning oil. Where can i find this engine temp sender under the hood and is it easy to replace my self. I have been putting 10w30 to top it up so that o.k.?

    again thank you so much for you knowledge
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You can use oil with a viscosity grade of SAE 5W40
    across all temperature ranges for normal driving conditions.
    However, if engine oil viscosity grade SAE 5W40 is not
    available, you can also use viscosity grade SAE 5W30
    or SAE 0W40 as long as it meets Volkswagen oil
    quality standard VW 502 00. Please remember that
    not all commercially available oils conform to
    Volkswagen oil quality standard VW 502 00 even
    though they may have the same viscosity.

    from: Choosing the right oil for your 1998–2006 Volkswagen with a Gasoline Engine
  • mg2000mg2000 Member Posts: 2
    My 98 Jetta also has a hard start in the mornings, especially when its cold. I just had it in the shop where they replace the air flow meter and temp gauge but it still has trouble starting in the mornings. Please let me know if you find whats causing this issue.
  • mg2000mg2000 Member Posts: 2
    My 98 Jetta is having a tough time starting up in the AM, especially when its cold. I just had it in the shop where they replaced the air flow meter and temp gauge but it still has trouble starting in the mornings. Once its started it runs fine. Please let me know if others are experiencing this same issue and any diagnosis.
  • mn_patmn_pat Member Posts: 67
    Had a similar prob in my 98 jetta, on cool and wet days it wouldnt start. It turned out to be the ignition control module. Super easy fix, no prob easy DIY. here is where i got the part, I got the $52 part:

    http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/smittys/ap/wizard.jsp?partner=smittys&clientid=aplusp- arts.com&baseurl=http://www.aplusparts.com/&cookieid=1M30TWQE71M30TWTKC&year=1998&make=VW&- model=JET-GL-002&category=F3&part=Ign+Coil+%26+Control+Unit
  • revan555revan555 Member Posts: 1
    All I can say is WOW. I was, keyword here is "was", considering purchasing a 2006 Jetta until I read these posts. I am considering trading in my 1998 Honda Accord and looking at all similar vehicles. I really like the design of the new Jetta and the features that are offered as standard equipment. Unfortunatley, from what I have read the Jetta will never be as reliable as my old Honda. I am amazed that people with vehicles that are only 3 yrs old are having such serious problems. I also notice that VW dealerships are usually unable to diagnose problems and cannot repair the vehicle until the cost rise above $1,000. For the record these are the problems I've had with my Accord since it was purchased in Feb. 1998 with 8 miles on the clock:

    Recall: Ignition Switch Interlock
    Recall: Emission Control System Check Engine Light on
    Cooling Fan Motor Replaced
    Alternator Replaced
    Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replaced

    The car currently is almost 8 yrs old and has 110,000 miles on the clock. It has not been "trouble free" but compared to the Jetta it is bulletproof. I must also say that all the dealerships that I have dealt with have been outstanding. They quickly service the vehicle only doing what I have instructed and have only recommended additional services per Honda maintenance schedules. The most I have ever paid is $800 to get the timing belt, drive belts, spark plugs and water pump replaced.

    Reading these post made me realize that the little things count. My car is on its 3rd set of tires, and 2nd battery all the hoses and lights are from the factory even the battery in the keyless remote is original.

    I don't want you VW guys to think that I am bashing VW I am just disappointed. I hate the design of the current Accord and will not purchase it. However I haven't seen many people post problems with the current Jetta and hope that VW has vastly improved their quality. With that in mind I think I'll wait and see how it holds up since it is the only car in that has the features I want at a reasonable price and a classy design that will still look good years from now. I have never owned a VW but it nust be outstanding when everything works since most of you guys sick with it despite the problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is best to discuss the situation with your dealership BEFORE they do any work. Also have them agree that your car DOES-IN-FACT fall into the "extended warantee" for MAF replacement before they start working. It does not hurt to have a copy of the letter from VW about the "extended warantee" on the MAF in your hand when you arrive at the dealership. (Search the internet for a copy of it)

    The typical process is...
    1) The dealership must hook up your car to their diagnostic computer.

    -- if it shows a MAF problem... then MAF and everything else is coverd by the "extended warantee".

    -- if it does NOT show a MAF problem... then you must pay for the diagnostic even if they do nothing more to your car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "engine temp sensor" is located on the drivers-side of the engine pointing twards the firewall.(with electrical connector on end of it) There is a "clip" that needs to be removed and you may lose some antifreeze since the end of the sensor is actually touching the engine-coolant.

    (REMINDER: NEVER-EVER use anything but G12 antifreeze in a VW)

    I understand it may cost about $20 for the engine-temp-sensor and it has been "superceeded" (re-designed to be more reliable) several times over the past 5 years. (I think the newest engine-temp-sensor has a GREEN electrical connector on it)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Revan: Just so you know that the 2005.5+ Jetta really shares nothing with previous version. Our 2005.5+ is our first VW. I had some concerns with possible reliability problems too. Some things that reduced my level of concern were:

    While an extended warranty for a VW would be a little more expensive than an Accord it was not a huge difference. It was about a $500 difference for 100,000 miles. So that is about $50-100 per year more...that is not enough difference to make me choose one car over another. I did not buy a warranty, I just use the cost information to get an idea of what the real differences are.

    Many VW owners that have posted on edmunds and elswhere have indicated that their car was nearly bulletproof too. Generally people who have a lot of problems are more likely to post about it though. Not every Honda is problem free. I would not want to buy a car I don't like because its is expected to be "reliable" and end up being one of the unlucky ones who has a lot of problems. I'd rather go the other way and hope I get lucky with a car I like :) .

    VW has a better warranty than Honda.

    VWs hold their resale value very well, despite the reliability issues. So if the car is problematic, selling it would lilkely not be too painful.

    The old Jetta appealed to a pretty young group of drivers, for the most part. This could increase the number of problems for a number of reasons.

    VWs are, I think, a little "fussier" than a car like a Honda and I don't know that everyone who owns one treats it accordingly when getting service. Just one example is the oil...VW requires/recommends synthetic oil, but how many owners just go to a quickie oil change places and have whatever generic oil they are selling put in? I plan to take are to VW dealer or VW specialist for all service.

    VW has been beat-up so much over reliability problems, I figured they were going to really work hard to avoid problems with the new Jetta.

    I have read about people having problems with some dealership service departments too. I think that will vary with the dealership. I don't have much experience with that yet but we did have our Jetta in for 5 minor issues and all were taken care of in our one visit.

    I like the features and the way my wife's Jetta drives so much that I am now considering a Golf for myself in a couple years. (By then, it should be clearer if VW has taken care of the "reliability" problem).
  • eyc51keyc51k Member Posts: 41
    I have never owned a VW but it nust be outstanding when everything works since most of you guys sick with it despite the problems.

    -------------------------------------------------------

    That one sentence says it all. I have also owned a Honda, it was a good, ho hum car. Like you said, not perfect but ok. I do a lot of driving, up to 800 miles a week and my Jetta makes it a pleasant experience, very pleasant in fact. It handles like a race car, has fuel economy that I can't even believe, it's the TDI, has tons of power for such a fuel miser. Since I have the loaded package 2 version it makes the experience that much more enjoyable.

    Your concerns: Any car is made of nuts and bolts, and trust me, reading on here and then assuming everything is accurate real world facts is a very misguided assumption. You have emotion driven rants from individuals who are simply venting their frustrations. If VW were as bad as what you read here, they would be out of business. Like the airline who had one too many crashes, it just doesn’t make that airline as bad as it's "perceived". Tell that to a nervous passenger.

    If you are an individual who can't stand leaving your emotional security zone, perceived or real, then I would stick to you first love a Honda. Myself, I moved on and above and beyond the Honda world and loving every mile and happy I am here.
  • vdubfanvdubfan Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I was doing a little browsing for an '04 Jetta GLS at a local VW dealership when after testing driving one of the cars, the dealership consultant that was helping me offers to sell me his personal Jetta GLS which looked exactly like the one I was interested in. He said that he is ending his lease but he is over mileage and would rather sell the car and transfer ownership than pay the overage fees. He's asking for the residual value of the car which would be the buy-out amount of the lease contract. My questions are: How does this process work if he doesn't own the car yet? Is there any potential for me to get burned on this deal?
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,517
    It is mostly paperwork. basically he buys out the lease and turns around and sells it to you for the same price.

    In terms of getting burned, be careful about tax consequences (not sure if you both have to pay sales tax).

    The other way I see you getting shafted is by paying too much for the car. Residuals aren't an exact science, but it was set assuming X miles, and the car now has X+. So, make sure to figure out what it would cost to buy the same car elsewhere, since it may not be worth the residual.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Is there a conflict of interest in this case of the dealership consultant dealing personally instead of selling his company's product?
  • vdubfanvdubfan Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the feedback stickguy. I never knew folks made buy -out transactions like that. The car is immaculate and under full bumper-to-bumper for 2 years. I'm still doing my research but this car is pretty high on the list for what's being offered.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,517
    It has been interesting to read this thread the last few days. I recently became interested in a Jetta 2.0t, and it is enlightening to mention VW on these threads. If nothing else, it gets a reaction.

    I have decided to go with the drive what you like theory. Maybe the odds of getting a troublesome Jetta are higher than some other brands, but even most VWs are going to be reasonably trouble free. Plus, I'm hoping they took extra care to reign in some of the quality issues, since this car really needs to suceed for them to survive.

    besides, it really can't cost any $$ for 4-5 years 9given the warranties), so the most you are really risking s/t is some aggrevation.

    Functionally it is a nice car though, which is what matters the most to me.

    Too bad the really reliable brands don't have any attributes that make me want to keep them for a long time!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • kylep86kylep86 Member Posts: 51
    I just want to let everyone know how much i love my car. I love taking it on the highway and back roads; soo smooth. Today my friends and i hoped in it for a 6 hr roadtrip, without any hesitation. (def, not the first time by anymeans) I know people come on here and seem to form these hesitations on the quality of VW, but every car has its flaws. Trust me when i say, its an amazing automobile. VW4LIFE. haha, thats all folks. :)
  • shaolingolfershaolingolfer Member Posts: 28
    I just bought my VW, Jetta TDI with DSG. It's a wonderful car and drive much better than Honda. I understand and know Honda is a more reliable car but VW is not that much worse. If you look at other threads like "Honda Accord problem and solution", there also have lot of peoples complaining about their Car, how upset they are about the quality and problems they have. ;)
  • shaolingolfershaolingolfer Member Posts: 28
    Check your manual but Engine light usually because of a misfire. It can happen to all the cars when you run low on fuel, has low grade fuel, did not tighten up the gas cap as recommeded. Put some high grade fuel in it, maybe mix in some RXP (from autozone) and run it for couple tanks and 99% of time, it will just go away.
  • usmcandersenusmcandersen Member Posts: 4
    have this code p0411 for my 2003 1.8t and unsure what to do. secondary AIR injector is what it says. anybody else had this?

    josh
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