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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • robalo76robalo76 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8 Turbo that the Antifreeze reservoir Light keeps coming on.
    The VW service could not find a problem after doing they said a system pressure test.
    At first the reservoir was below the minimun line, so we have added 20 ounces of fluid to the reservoir in say three months. You can smell antifreeze at times when the car is parked. It appears to be slowly going somewhere. Now the reservoir is above full and the light for needed fluid is coming on again.
    Anyone have any ideas before i go back to the dealer and they say it's ok?
    Thanks.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    The next morning all was wonderful on 10 mile trip into the big village. No jerking, of course. My non-VW but trustworthy mechanic listened to me, did a road test etc. and called me back.

    "Did see some oil from the front struts. But struts seemed to work fine, axle, CV joings etc and rest of front were tight. Rear wheel bearning were grinding and while new suspension put in rear 9 months ago seemed to be knocking a bit but nothing serious. All the roads are horrible this time of year. Next spring you might budget for some new front struts. Chris I would definately put new rear wheel bearings in but that would not cause the jerking."

    Just drove the car back home, no problems. It is quieter with new rear wheel bearings. Am thinking, cold (its been a lot colder), snow, small frost heaves, weight of car balancing to the front.....strut frezzing to cause a jerk?

    One of those mysteries. Still will entertain some ideas.
  • rosas1rosas1 Member Posts: 2
    That would be the KEY STARTING ENGINE.
    Thanks again!
  • jph96jph96 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you!! I will have them switched out because it is really really bad and it makes me CRAZY!! Thanks for your advice.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Chris,

    Last winter, I developed an awful "Shimmy - Shake - Vibration" in my passat (not a jerking as you describe, but a huge difference in a normally smooth ride). It could be felt at slow speeds and prevented me from going much over 30 mph. It turned out that during a snowstorm, hard packed snow froze on the inside of the alloy wheels. This block of snow was like a wheel weight on one portion of the wheel and as it rotated with the tire it caused the car to really shake or jump. It was not obvious at all as it was on the inside of the wheel: I really had to look carefully to notice the snow. A trip to the car wash solved the problem (I was surprised it hung on so well, but it was the right combo of ice and snow).

    Mike (also in NH but far enough inland to have missed the blizzard of '06)
  • galogvigalogvi Member Posts: 41
    I have an '02 1.8T and was having similar problems. No leaks, but when the temperature was below 40 degrees the light would come on. However, the coolant level was between the full and low lines. I found info on this forum that mentioned that the only fix for this was to replace the Coolant expansion tank (reservior). When I mentioned this to the dealer, they said that they would have to have the car overnight to try to reproduce the problem and that it could be any number of things causing the problem.

    Long story short, they added some coolant and said the problem was resolved. Not so. And sadly, I found out after the warranty ran out.

    Bottom line - I ordered a new expansion tank online for $18 + tax, installed it and haven't had a problem in over 3 months. It appears that the sensors in the tank were defective.

    This maintenance is very simple and it was worth the cost not to have put up with dealership. Afterall, my time is worth much more than this repair cost me.

    If you do a search on this forum or on vwvortex you can get the diy for this maintenance and save yourself a lot of worries. I did! Let me know if you want the online parts store I ordered the tank from.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    Mike,
    Thanks. Well I went to the Dentist in St. J this morning from my home in Franconia. Not much going, on the way back I could feel it. Nothing grabbing like down in my test run in Lincoln after my daughter parked it. But still there. As you know it is an almost balmy near freezing.

    I was coasting in neutral, and could feel a tug to the left on the downhill. Strut, bad power steering assist unit, one of those Vermiters hiding out of sight trying to mess with what is left of my mind. I could call it the Bode thing but...it is too small a village :)

    Think I am going to have to take it to the "good but fix everything" foreign car garage. Want my car back from the daughter, although I will miss the heated seats.
  • kylep86kylep86 Member Posts: 51
    I'm posting this for my friend who today had this happen to her:
    i've noticed recently that every now and then when i flip on my high beams or a turn signal the radio will turn off for a split second, then come back on but at a very low volume. today i was backing out of my parking spot (my car had been sitting for a day and half) and my car stalled. i turned it back on and noticed that as i continued to back out it was idleing very very low, and i felt the car losing power. when i pressed on the gas to try and keep it from stalling it felt like there was no power going to the gas pedal. i managed to pull it back into another spot before it could stall again. at that point it began to idle normally again. i backed out of the spot without a problem and parked it down the street a little further. my friend noticed that my daytime running lights were not on at that point. i let the car sit for a few hours then drove it a few miles with no problem. Thanks
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Chris,

    I wish you luck in the great north woods (also far enough inland to have only experienced the Fizzard of '06).

    My gut reation to my car's problem last year was that something major had let go. It was sudden, noticeable and quite shocking. In reality, it was a minor issue that was solved with a $9.00 car wash (and a bonus clean car). I would not have thunk it so simple (and an unscrupulous dealer or repair center could have taken me to the cleaners!). It only happened once, and was the perfect combo of rain, snow, ice and wind that resulted in big blocks of snow and ice forming inside the alloy wheels.

    Mike
  • mjoey83mjoey83 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I bought this Jetta used last April w/ about 50,000 mi on it. At the time, I used regular octane gas (like 87 or 89) and wasn't having any problems. Then the trouble began: the car would stall every time after I started it unless I stepped on the gas immediately). Well then one day while pumping gas, I noticed on the gas cap it said to use premium, so I did and that problem stopped. Currently it has about 65,000 mi and is starting to act up again. When I first start it in the morning (winter in new england)there's sometimes a muddled banging or clang noise coming from under the hood and it acts as if its it gonna stall (it sounds as if it's revving up really high, then it'll go really low), but doesn't stall. I let it warm up for a good 10 minutes then go. When I'm on the road and take off, it almost feels as if the car isn't accelerating properly. It will rev up and everything, but there's no power. It'll finally "kick" and start to go. Ive noticed that this problem happens more violently if I press the gas as hard as I can. If I am gentle, it doesn't kick as bad, but it still kicks. I'm just wondering what this could be. Ive read up on various websites about ignition coils, coil packs, etc. and was wondering if that is in fact my problem. Also, I know there was a recall on the coils for all 2001 jettas, but does that still apply to me since I bought this car used?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • loftygrlloftygrl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VR6 Jetta with only 39k miles. I recently took it in for a 40k mile tune-up and was told I needed new spark plugs, which I had replaced. As I drove my car home I noticed that it didn't seem to drive well. It turns out my clutch was "slipping" (the VW service did not mention any problems with the clutch at the time of service). Two days after having the service done I had to have my clutch replaced! A week later, my check engine light went on and then immidiately my car started sputtering. I took it back to the shop only to find out that my spark plug wires had gone bad! Has anyone else had maintenance issues happening much sooner than expected? I had been told that spark plugs (much less the wires) don't usually go bad this quickly.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You suggest that your sparkplug wires went bad quickly... Do not forget that they do not "wear out".... it is TIME and HEAT that ears on plugwires. Since you have a 2001, It is not unusual to have the plugwires start getting whimpy.

    WITH THAT SAID: I would sooner think that if your plugwires really were found bad - it is because somone pulled them off of the sparkplugs without using the spoecial tool. That could easilly break a plugwire internally.

    I beleive that if you had never had the sparkplugs replaced, you would have NEVER had any problems with the plugwires.

    I know that the plugwires for my daughters 4-cyliner VW are over $80 just for the wires..... I can only guess that for the VR6 engine, they are over $100.

    I am Sooooo glad that my VW does not even have sparkplugs nor wires to replace. (I have TDI)
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    Visited a small shop that does a lot of VW work and has a good local rep. Will set an appointment for a test drive on Friday. They said if I can't duplicate the problem, then it might be tough to find. My regular mechanic sends them business.

    Yesterday was even milder weather. Stopped at the shop to set up Friday, then on the way to work and tried to make it do the thing. Nada. Not even a hint I could feel on our frost heave covered roads. Some variation of your ice fur ball theory is looking pretty good :)-

    So now does Dad let daughter keep "his car" because the Jetta might revert back to its ugly side when the next cold front passes through (Friday night of course after the shop closes and when daughter returns for weekend before leaving again). Decisions.
  • smitteyb11smitteyb11 Member Posts: 6
    I've read this many many times, and it finally happened to me. I'm in flight school in FL and I recently purchased a USED 2000 VW Jetta GLS. The car was perfect for 5 months until one day my driver side window made a crunching and grinding sound and the window was having trouble going up and down, needless to say it finally stopper working alltogether and now my window is stuck 2 inches down. Within 2 DAYS the passenger window stopped working as well, however it is in the up position. I cannot afford 2 new regulators at $1100 a peice. My question is, because I bought the car used, if there is a recall on the windows, will VW still cover it, even though I am not the original owner? Any information would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I dont know how many times we have to say this... a RECALL is mostly for SAFETY-RELATED items. The term "recall" is a specific term used for FEDERALLY MANDADTED action. Emmissions control equipment may also fall under a "recall"

    The window regulators were never a "recall" item... but they were covered under a TSB (Technical Service Bulliten) offered by VW. You *may* be able to have a VW dealership look up your VIN to see if the window-regulators have already been replaced and if VW would cover them.

    You may also try these URLS and search for yourself.
    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/
    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
  • jmr813jmr813 Member Posts: 6
    I should preface this by saying that I really know nothing about cars.

    But anyway. I have recently (as in..2 days ago) purchased a brand new 2006 Jetta 2.5 with automatic transmission and package 1. This morning I went to start the car to go to church and the first two tries....it wouldn't start! The power came on (radio, dash display, etc.) but nothing else happened. The engine didn't even sound like it was trying to turn over, there was no noise at all. It finally started on the third try, but needless to say, I am disturbed by this since the car only has 71 miles on it! Also, it was very cold this morning - 14 degrees farenheit outside (very unusual for the southeast US) and the car was not in a garage. Does this have something to do with the cold, or should the dealer take a look at it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • rcnaylorrcnaylor Member Posts: 1
    I just acquired a 2004 Jetta GLS TDI. The one option it doesn't have that I would very much like is the electronic traction control.

    I know this is unusual, but, is this option possible/feasible to add on? From the factory it only adds about $200 to the cost. I woudn't mind paying more to get it installed if it can be done "aftermarket".

    Any one know?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Not a trivial task. The ESP system is tied into the ABS brakes, the Electronic traction control and adds some "yaw" sensors, steeringwheel angle sensor and some other items.

    Dont forget that the ESP system has the capability of APPLYING the brakes at any one wheel indipendantly. (Think ABS in reverse)

    I am SOOOoooo glad that I "held out" for a Jetta with ESP. It may be the very best option for driving in the snow....and is inexpensive too. It is almost IMPOSSIBLE to make the car go into a skid. (yea.... I have tried it)
  • rwatsonrwatson Member Posts: 144
    Are you in Pensacola? I don't know who has a dealership there, but you may have to drive to Panama City.
    Anyway, in 1999, I purchased a used Jetta GLX (my heart-throb!) with a warranty of 2 months left (bumper-to-bumper) and had and had the same problem almost a year after that warranty expired. With a sick feeling of dread, I drove up to Jack Ingram VW in Montgomery, AL. I was stationed at FT Rucker at the time and they were my closest VW people. I will never buy a car there due to their salesmens' attitudes, but their service dept always treated me good. I told them I was out of warranty, and asked if this is something VW hard-wired into the system. They immediately said "No. This shouldn't happen," and they took care of the problem.
    It all depends on how you approach them. You SHOULD HAVE (don't you just love hind-sight?) immediately taken it to a dealership garage and built a rapport with them BEFORE any problems happened.
    Did you get your other window up? I messed with the motor button while pushing up on the glass until it finally slid up into the channel. Then I took some small, black rubber tubing and wedged it down between the glass and the upper door panel trim to create a sticky wedge. That kept it up until I could get somewhere.
    Good luck and keep us posted on what happens.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    ESP have increased my confidence in putting a l ow profile Max performance summer tire (SP9000) in place of the stock All season junk tire (Eagle RSA) just three weeks ago. And I have tried in this light snow in the NE Winter Blizzard which is OK despite its not a A/S or snow tire.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My wife thinks the ESP is fantastic for winter driving too. I am going to try to hold out for that in whatever new car I eventually get.
  • 10641064 Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact same problem with my 2004 Jetta 2.0 automatic transmission. I Had 27000 miles on the car. I took it to Appleway Volkswagen in Spokane, WA and they replaced it with a new one. They didn't say what was wrong with the old one, but I didn't care as my warranty covered it. This was just done two days ago.
  • whyvwwhyvw Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Jetta GL with the same problem. I had a similar problem at 65000 miles and since my car was under warranty (Certified Used), it was fixed my VW. Now I have 128K+ and looks like I have a 'Torque Converter Lockup Clutch Mechanical Fault'. The VW service says that I have to replace the entire transmission. I can't believe that transmissions can't last beyond 65000 miles! I am yet to resolve it. I called VW customer service and they wouldn't help. The car is still at the VW dealer/service.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    From what I have heard about recent A3s, Jettas, GLIs and GTIs, there is at times a bit of a timing problem when using the iginition key too quickly. Try to inset the key a bit more slowly, taking your time before you actually turn it. This is not a joke - several things need to be initialized and primed before the engine can start. If the engine does not even try to turn over with a good battery --- this is a sure sign that something got skipped.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    Mike,
    Talked to my plow guy this morning. MechEng student at UNH, daughter's contemporary, think he is on break. "Oh yeah, going downhill jerks and all sorts of nonsence on my mother's Audi. We pulled the wheels a couple of times to get rid of the ice on the inside of the rims. You know we live on a dirt road and we think that contributes to the problem".

    Why do I think mom's car is now parked every night in that nice heated slab floor garage that the "boys built" to work on toys. :)
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Chris,

    The simplest of solutions. Again, I kind of freaked and thought the worst when I suddenly experienced the carzy vibration. But, considering a small weight (like 1/4 oz.) can be used to create "balance", a frozen chunk of ice will certainly create "unbalance".

    Glad it worked out for you.

    Mike
  • rcolli02rcolli02 Member Posts: 1
    We have the exact same problem with our 2002 Jetta. 45,000 miles. Losing lots of oil mysteriously every couple of thousand miles. Clean motor, no apparent leaks, no excessive smoking. Dealership has no clue what's going on with it. Offered a lame explanation saying that this is common for VWs to burn so much oil. Has anyone else out there experienced this? If so, any answers? :confuse:
  • waluleywaluley Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Jetta that has already had the hazard switch replaced by a recall a year ago. However, now when I complete a turn and the signal turns off, there is still a intermitant clicking. Sometimes it is fast and stops, sometimes it will click a few minutes later or while I am driving. I went to the dealer and bought a new switch to replace it and still have the problem. I have read that the signal will click faster when a bulb is out, could this be the culprit?

    Any answer would be appreciated, because the clicking will drive me insane.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The dealership was correct!! Some of the 2001-2002 2.0L engines do - in fact- consume oil.

    Consuming oil - by itself - is not a big deal. HOWEVER: Allowing the oil to get so low that the pressure-light comes on may damage the engine.

    My daughters each have a 2001 VW (Golf and NewBeetle). The Golf consumes oil while the NB consumes none at all.

    Check your oil at every gas-fillup and carry a quart of 5w30 at all times.

    Also, check your snowscreen and clean it often. Most of the oil is being sucked thru the intake (PCV system) and keeping the snowscreen clean can reduce the amount of vacuum in the intake plenum.
  • stetsonhatterstetsonhatter Member Posts: 16
    I'm considering purchasing my leased 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI. Does anyone know the cost of the extended warranty, what it covers and whether or not it's worth it? Anyone have experience with the VW extended warranty?
  • jkrug9jkrug9 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6 and have been havng a problem I was hoping one of you may have run acrossed. I haven't driven it for some and noticed recently as soon as I start it I hear kind of a whine for about 2 seconds. It does this everytime. The car seems to run fine otherwise. I lifted the hood and had a friend start it a couple of times as I listened. It does not seem to be a belt (though it does kind of sound that way). Seems to be coming from the back of the engine. Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
  • fppdrummerfppdrummer Member Posts: 4
    I am in the market for a 2001 volkswagen jetta 1.8L Turbo. I was told that by having a turbo charger on any car engine would cut the engine life in half. I was wondering if this is true.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, maybe 10% less longevity on any factory engineered turbo vs. the same engine normally aspirated---if you bolt one on an engine not built for a turbo, you might not do as well.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have never heard of anyone actually wearing out an engine. (Except a trucker-buddy that has about 1 MILLION miles on his Freightliner)

    If you follow the VW recommendations and use the proper engine-oil and only run hi-test gasoline, I am certain you will not wear out the engine before the rest of the car wears out. (well over 150K miles )
  • crossbolcrossbol Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2004 VW Jetta Wagon 1.8T and I've been using regular gas. I did not have any problems by using regular gas. What they told me is that while you stay with one type of gas you are fine. And be sure you get it from a "reliable" gas station.
  • fppdrummerfppdrummer Member Posts: 4
    I would love to get the turbo engine, but the premium gas factor turns me away. is that ok to use regular gas in the turbo engine??
  • migelrmigelr Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Jetta and was driving along and the motor just quit. Doing checks on it I have no fire or fuel. Have changed coil out and checked all wires and stuff. Has anybody had this problem and what do I look for? ECM ?
    Mike
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is a reason that turbocharged engines reccommend higher octane fuel. Some people may report that they have had "no problems" while running low-octane fuel... but they are only fooling themselves.

    Higher octane means SLOWER BURNING fuel as compared to lower octane. Using too-low an octane in a turbocharged engine is asking for PRE-IGNITION. This can put a hole in a piston.

    Do yourself and your engine a favor... follow the recomendations for fuel and oil. German automobiles especially need to follow the recommendations. Squeezing that kind of performance from a small engine means that the engine is under more stress.

    I also was turned away by the requirement for hi-octane fuel in the 1.8T. I ended up with the TDI... it is ALSO turbocharged.... and gets up to 56 MPG.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Is the $10 more per month in premium gas really that much of a deterrent?
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Totally agreed with Bpeebles. If you (fppdrummer)want to ruin the engine, go for 87 octane. You can try the difference of power, by putting 93 or 94 octane gas. Its just night and day. My VR6 also requires minimum 91 Octane, but now I use 93 or 94 octane to get the best power out of it. Good luck if you keep using 87.">link title
  • refalenrefalen Member Posts: 3
    My daughter has a 2000 Jetta with a manual 5 speed transmission. It has around 66,000 miles. I believe that it has the 1.8L engine. Currently she describes a problem of the engine speeding up then slowing down again while she is stopped at a traffic light. She says that this seems to happen about 3 or 4 time ( during the same stop ) but does not do it every time she stops for a light. She also mentions that the "Check Engine Light" has come back on.

    Any suggestions / assistance would be greatly appreciated
  • mordechaimordechai Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same problem. did you find out what caused this problem?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The problem you describe may be related to the MAF(MasAirFlow) sensor.

    Some of the 1999-2001 models had a letter sent out about a factory "extended warantee" for the MAF sensor.
  • xlaurax36xlaurax36 Member Posts: 2
    I'd first like to say that I have found this forum very useful in the past so I thank you!

    I have a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta GLS that always has the check engine light on. Last week I was rushing to an appointment and was on empty but was in a hurry so I put about 1/4 tank of gas. When I left the appointment and turned on my car it somewhat shuttered and hesitated, but started. Later on in the day I turned my car on again and it had a very weird noise, it was humming over and over again with only about a second in between, as I pulled out of my driveway the battery light turned on and the car just stalled (I replaced my battery back in January). We were able to turn on the car after several attempts by pumping the gas pedal but a cloud of smoke came out of the back. The car was fine for about 2 days but now whenever I try to turn on the car it hesitates and practically sounds like a boat turning on (very deep, low, gurgling noises), unless I pump the gas at that point it won't turn on (a couple of dashboard lights come up when I'm trying to turn it on, including the battery light), once it's on there's no driving issues. Also, when it doesn't hesitate to turn on, it starts but with a really peculiar noise after the start that kind of sounds like a belt pulling. A couple of mechanics have told me it's either a problem with the starter or alternator, but wanted to make sure I got a neutral opinion before I began spending enormous amounts of money on repairs. Please help!
  • refalenrefalen Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the information. I have printed the letter and will pass it on. We bought the car second hand from a VW dealer so I am not sure how that works.

    The error codes that I did not know about seem to indicate that there is a problem with the Temperature Sensor. the codes are P1296 and P1255 which translate to DTC 17704 and DTC 17663. I am in the act of trying to identify if I have a repair manual so that I could determine the feasability of replaceing the sendor my self. I will also look into the MAF sensor as well.

    I have googled quite a bit even jeeved a couple of times, but I am unable to find an online repair manual ( other than one I could buy and have shipped to me) Are you aware of any type of online service manual?
  • refalenrefalen Member Posts: 3
    The error codes seem to indicate that there is a problem with the Temperature Sensor. the codes are P1296 and P1255 which translate to DTC 17704 and DTC 17663. I am in the act of trying to identify if I have a repair manual so that I could determine the feasability of replaceing the sendor my self. I will also look into the MAF sensor as well.

    I have googled quite a bit even jeeved a couple of times, but I am unable to find an online repair manual ( other than one I could buy and have shipped to me) Are you aware of any type of online service manual
  • jazzmennjazzmenn Member Posts: 1
    what is the online store that you purchased the tank from?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am lucky -- my wife gave me the factory service manual for christmas. Given that we have 3 VWs in the family and I have VagCom, I am well-prepared for most maintenance tasks at this point.

    The "coolant temperture sensor" (CTS)is KNOWN to have issues. It has been superceeded several times. (I assume that currently available temp. sensors are now reliable)

    Although I have never had to replace the CTS myself, I understand that is is simply a matter of removing the electrical connector, then pulling off a clip and it slides out. (Dont forget to drain some antifreeze 1st into a clean container so it can be reused)

    NEVER EVER use standard "green" antifreeze in VW engine. Use only G12.
  • elbyelby Member Posts: 1
    first I,m not a mechanic but I know the simple things. It does sound like the starter if it drags or has a grinding sound. The hesitation may just be water in the tank especially if you run low tanks alot. Just put a can of Seafoam cleaner/dryer in gas tank with 93 octane gas that will remove any water.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I really would not be driving this car with the problems you are describing. Sometimes, repairs that could be fixed at a reasonable cost can turn into very expensive repairs by letting them go. When a cars stalls or makes the weird noises that you describe, all I can think of is things tearing themselves up. The stuff that you have described sounds like your engine has multiple issues. When the "battery" light on your dash comes on, it does not mean that your battery needs to be replaced, it means that the alternator is not charging it. I tend to replace my batteries based on age (whatever the warranty is thats about how long they typically last) and how well they turn the car over in the dead of winter (hardest condition on a battery for starting a car; slow cranking is indicative of tired battery). With the battery light coming on as you described, it sounds like you alternator did stop turning, but there are other things that may have caused this (the other things you describe that happened later make me think your alternator is ok). Your alternator is driven by your serpentine belt, a spring loaded tensioner maintains the propper tension on the serpentine belt. It is fairly common for the spring in the belt tensioner to break, this could lead to some funny humming noises. If the belt tensioner is OK, you could have a problem with some other auxiliary (the serpentine belt drives your power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning compressor and is driven by the crankshaft pulley). If the battery light just came on as the car was stalling that can be normal as a car stalls. You didn't mention what engine your car has in it (I am guess the 2.0 liter, not the 1.8 liter turbocharged). You really need to have the engine codes read to get a better idea of what other issues your car has going on. When the "check engine" light is lit, something that feeds information to your car's computer is not right. Sometimes certain codes can be ignored, but others should not. Someone needs to naarow down where the gurgling noises are coming from. Mechanics have stethascopes with a long rod attached that allows them to pinpoint funny noises. If you know someone that has Vagcom (its PC based software that gets installed on a laptop, with the propper cable the engine codes can be read) ask them to see what codes are set. One of the advantages of going to a dealer over a garage is they will have the correct equipment to diagnose any engine codes. The mechanic that told you it is either your alternator or your starter doesn't sound like he has listened to the problems you described. These cars have a very high incidence of MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors failing; with Vagcom this can easily be checked (you might even find this is still covered under your warranty). Just out of curiosity, does damp or rainy weather make your problem any worse (do you have problems on dry days?); if so, it could be a problem with your coil pack or possibly a bad spark plug wire. Good luck.
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