Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

1…8990929495…131

Comments

  • hogyldhogyld Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 1.8T Jetta, I have been getting a rich mix code about once a month. Can this be caused by fuel, o2 sensor or something else? Please help if you can!!
  • leeannrleeannr Member Posts: 7
    Well, the problem occurred again. :( My husband said the brake warning light and beeper came on during his drive to work. He checked every fuse in the fuse box and all are okay. Evidently, it's not the fuse, like the dealer told us. So back to my original reason for posting: has anyone else had such a problem as this? If so, what turned out to be the cause and how was it fixed?
  • voloctyvolocty Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Jetta is doing the exact same thing. I have already replaced the ignition switch, which helped for a while but it's back. Any luck figuring it out?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    While we're waiting for owners to jump in on your question, perhaps your husband could unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and jiggle the little plunger up and down, and see if that affects the light in any way.
  • kcflynnkcflynn Member Posts: 2
    The same bulb has both high and low beams. You will need to replace the entire bulb, even though the high beam still works. I think it's a Sylvania 9007 or something like that, about $9 at an auto parts place. It's not a fuse issue. Pop off the black cover and unscrew the plastic retaining ring and the light will slide out. Don't touch the glass on the lamp.
  • vwregrettavwregretta Member Posts: 7
    WOW!!! I THOUGHT I WAS THE ONLY PERSON IN THE WORLD THAT COULD NOT CHECK MY OWN TRANSMISSIONS FLUID!!!!! I'M SO GLAD I BOUGHT MYSELF THIS GIFT THAT KEEPS ON TAKING! thanks for that dipstick comment, i thought it was me.
  • vwregrettavwregretta Member Posts: 7
    PLEASE!!!! I BEG U!!!!! TAKE IT TO THE VOLKSWAGON SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT THE NEAREST DEALER IMMEDIATELY. I LET A HONDA CERTIFIED MECHANIC DIAGNOS MY TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS, AND NOW MY 2002 JETTA HAS SLIPPED INTO A COMA. I AM SERIOUSLY THINKING ABOUT PUTTING IT OUT OF ITS MISERY.....BECAUSE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE CHARGED WITH FELONY GRAND LARCONY, AND FRAUD. GOOD LUCK, IT WAS 16,000+ FOR BOTH TRANNIES, AND I MIGHT NEED ANOTHER SOON. MAYBE IF I BUY 10 THEY WILL THROW IN A FREE ONE.
  • vwregrettavwregretta Member Posts: 7
    If the car made it to 120,000 miles, its probably worth something. Such a rare find is lucky, so take advantage!
  • vwregrettavwregretta Member Posts: 7
    My 2002 jetta and I have nothing in common. Our relationship is going nowhere FAST, and the lemon layers don't think i have a case. I bought the car and applied for my IDIOT license in late January, only to have the engine light come on early may. It cost $800.00 for a piece of paper stating i need $8000.00 in work done. A NEW TRANNY!!! It remained in the shop from May to June, while I continuously fought with the dealer, warranty company, and manufacturer about who is responsible for the bill. While they were having it out, I'm trying to find a ride to the bank so i can make my car payment. YES. Clearly the $14,000 loan i just signed included a transmission, but i must have missed the fine print that says..........."parts don't have to function at all."
    I am now on my 3rd transmission, and even though the car runs now, i'm planning for the future by watching for signs of transmission rejection. Does anyone have some info? A word? Anything? Oh yeah, and the engine light never went off.
  • vwregrettavwregretta Member Posts: 7
    jetta!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi - sorry about what's happening to your Jetta.

    Let's keep this conversation all in one place. I've renamed one of your new discussions so that the title reflects better what you want to know, so let's continue at this link: vwregretta, "Is my Jetta a lemon?" #1, 25 Jul 2006 6:03 pm.

    Also, I'm not sure if you understand that this is a message board, not a chat room. Response time will vary, but please don't think that just because you don't have any responses in just a few hours that you won't get some eventually.

    See you over in the other discussion!
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Pat, why did you make this apparent Jetta problem it's own discussion? Is a 2002 Jetta a Lemon? NO, it's a 2002!!!!! That simple answer doesn't need it's own thread or discussion forum. That's just my opinion!! For what its worth.
  • noah37noah37 Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!! I have a 1999 New Jetta and yesterday the air conditioning stopped blowing cold air. The fans and everything were still working, but the cold air stopped. The water pump was replaced 45 days ago...and the thermostat is good. So could it be just a refill of freon....? Please help.
  • vwjettaownervwjettaowner Member Posts: 1
    In 2004 I bought a new Jetta off the dealer lot. I have been the only one to drive this car and have driven manual trasnsmission cars for many years. When the Jetta hit 30,000 miles the clutch blew. The dealer reported the flywheel was cracked and that "the clutch was being ridden" meaning while driving the car down the freeway the clutch is also being pressed....as the dealer stated "being lazy and not taking the foot off the clutch". I do not drive my car this way. To make a long story short, the new clutch cost me $1,600. I have researched VW car clutches on the internet and there are many complaints. I am hoping those with similar complaints take their problems up to VW so we, as consumers, can get a solution to this issue VW is notorious for. No one buys a car which they expect to put $1,600 into within the first 2 years or 30,000 miles. This is the first VW I have owned and the last.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    I feel sorry for your clutch fault.
    Do you feel any difference for foot feel on clutch before the clutch blew? Is it harder to press the clutch?
  • dakotisdakotis Member Posts: 1
    This 99 Jetta is a fun car to drive, but a pain to maintain.
    The A/C only works when the fan blower fan is on speed 1. As soon as the fan is changed to any other speed, the green light goes out on the A/C button, the fan continues to blow but not conditioned air. I replaced the board, It is not climate controlled, just manual dial (red/blue). Sounds like a relay problem but not sure. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your description sounds like the MAF sensor. The 2001s were NOTORIOUS for getting RICH -then- LEAN readings. The computer is being fed bad info from the MAF and is thusly injecting too much/little fuel.

    The good news is that the MAF is coverd by an extended warantee.
  • vrajeshpvrajeshp Member Posts: 9
    i bought a brand new 2004 Jetta GL and ever since i have it its been nothing but a problem. at 5000miles the transmission started to slip, took it to dealer more than 10times but everytime they said its normal they could not duplicate the problem. So finally i decided to wait it out until the problem gets worse (have warrenty so if something goes wrong they will cover it) It now has 30K miles on it and now i have a new problem on top of the previous one. when parked on an incline the car and put the car in reverse the car will roll forward like more than 4 feet. This is risky since if a car is parked infornt then I could hit it. Took it to the dealer 4 times and when they duplicated the problem they came back to me and said that this is normal and all jettas are build like this. CAN YOU BELIVE THAT! they tested another Jetta and it also rolled forward when in reverse, I can understand that since Jettas dont have the neutral lock. But if a car rolls more than 4 feet then there is definately something wrong with it. So now I am stuck with this piece of scrap metal and VW does not wanna fix this. I am pretty sure that my transmission is going bad. Called VW several times and they keep telling me to take it to dealer but then the dealer comes back and tells me that the VW Tech Reps at Headquarters tell them that this is normal so the dealer says their hands are tied. So i am basically playing a cat and mouse game here.
    NEVER EVER BUY A VW Product again THEY DONT STAND BY THEIR PRODUCTS and THEIR SERVICE SUKCS!!!! NO WONDER THEIR SALES ARE GOING DOWN.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Sorry to hear about your problems with the Jetta. Is your car a manual or automatic? What do you mean by "slipping"?

    When you called VWoA customer service, what did you want them to tell you? They can't diagnose the problem without a dealer seeing the car. Maybe you shoudl take your car to another dealer and get a second opinion!!

    BTW: VW Sales have increased from last year!!
  • vrajeshpvrajeshp Member Posts: 9
    its an Automatic Trans. When slipping i mean when the car shifts I feel a hard jerking/Knocking sound. This happens mostly in the mornings when i start to drive and goes away after the car warms up.

    Also when talking to VWoA cust service I just want them to research the prob and fix it. Also I have tried taking to different dealerships they are all the same :mad:
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Sorry to hear about the problems you're having with your Jetta. I had the same problem too with my ex-2002 Jetta 1.8T. I sold it a month ago... No regrets selling it. Please see my posting link title on the problems I had with my former vehicle. I had to threaten my dealer with a lawsuit before they agreed to replace it at their cost.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I have an '02 VR6 and the auto-transmission has behaved poorly since new. Sometimes it doesn't seems to know what gear to choose and then abruptly clunks into gear. It is worst when under moderate to full acceleration or when you go off and back on the throttle quickly. It also clunks when downshifting at stops. Some days it is acceptable though. I believe it's not a mechanical problem but rather a computer issue. While it was under warranty, the dealer would not acknowledge any problem. Since this car is paid for, otherwise runs good and gets good mileage I'm keeping it. Would not buy another VW however.
  • vrajeshpvrajeshp Member Posts: 9
    this is crazy I dropped my car again today at the dealership, explined again that the car launges forward and also Jerks hard when shiting from lower gears (Usually happens in the morning) But I know they are going to say nothing is wrong. So I filed a case with BBB on VWoA and Lets see what they come up with. This car is a LEMON, I have had problems with this car from Day 1, took the car to the dealer for the Jerking and hard shifting when the car had like 5000miles on it and ever since then Its been to the dealer several times but still no luck. FRUSTRATING...thats why I file a case with BBB and hopefully they can help me out here.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    I wish you all the best with the BBB. If they don't help or seem to "liaise" with VWoA, then i would suggest that you consult a consumer relations lawyer; Fight for your rights vehemently, and once you get a new transmission put in, SELL THE CAR!!!! I fought tooth and nail until the dealer admitted fault indirectly and replaced my transmission, free of charge.
  • vrajeshpvrajeshp Member Posts: 9
    Guess what the Dealer told me today, and also VWoA called.They said that nothing is wrong and the car is functioning according to factory specs. But they also said that I can speak to the VWoA Techinical Rep Quality Control guy when he shows up at the dealership on Aug 17th. I am going to try that out and see what he says. (for which I already know the answer--same BS). In the mean time also waiting to hear from BBB and see what they say.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    When I was having the same problem with me ex 2002 Jetta, the dealer gave me the same BS; transmission is functioning to manufacturer specifications... blah blah blah! When my car had ran out of the manufacturer warranty, then the dealer changed their story and said that my transmission was now showing signs of wear and tear. How convenient... That's when ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE!!! Don't let them get away with this!!!! Fight to the bitter end.
  • ericqliericqli Member Posts: 3
    A few days ago, I took my 01 Jetta to the dealer because it had trouble starting. I had replaced the battery less than a year ago, so I didn't think it was the battery but rather the alternator that was bad. The dealer told me that the battery was the problem, and that the alternator was fine. They charged 270 bucks for replacing the battery and another 500 or so for the basic 40K mile tune up, which included checking the alternator. 2 days later, the car broke down. Now the dealer said the alternator is bad, despite the fact that it was apparently good when they did the tune up. They want 880 bucks for replacing the alternator. I can't help but feel that I am getting ripped off. Any suggestions on what i should do?
  • jameskevjameskev Member Posts: 1
    About a month ago I purchased a 2005.5 New Jetta (pkg 2) with only 1600 miles on it (should have been the warning sign but I thought I found a killer deal). So I've had the car a little over a month and so far I've had the altenator replaced, then the steering rack. In the defense of the dealership, the mechanic thought the problem with the power steering not working was initially the altenator...car was displaying codes indicating altenator issues.

    So I finally get the car back two days ago and now the engine light is steady lit..indicating exhaust/emission issues....do you think I have a lemon on my hands??

    Oh yea, one other thing I thought was weird and didn't find out until after I purchased the car...went on to carfax and the VIN shows that the car arrived at a michigan dealer, was there for several months (late 2005), then the dealer auctioned it to the dealer I bought it from...is it typical for dealerships to auction off pretty much brand new cars?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I would not say you have a "lemon"... just some electrical issues that need to be ironed out. I would suspect most of the issues can be traced to a single problem. (although may not be easy to isolate.) Most of todays "mechanics" are not skilled enough in electronics to know the difference between "voltage" and "current" and how electrons behave in a circuit.

    As for your question about a vehicle being "acutioned" from dealer to dealer.... this is not unusual. If a dealership has a customer for a specific model/options/color... they will often "trade" with another dealership to get what that customer wants.

    On the other hand.... you *may* have one of those cars which had an "unfortunate accident" in tranzit from the factory and was rebuilt.... technically, that is still a "new" car.

    I have heard stories of cars that "fell off the truck" on the way to the dealership. I have PERSONALLY seen a car on the back of a car-carrier which the hood had popped open and was crushed around the wihdshield by the wind force. (that truck with the car-carrier was traviling at least 70MPH when I saw it go by... the driver had no clue about the hood of that car on the back of his truck.)
  • ajp2ajp2 Member Posts: 2
    I've had four VW's three Jetta's and one Passat and have had no problems with them. The worst car I've owned was a Plymouth Turismo. We have had problems with our Q45 sunroof windows stereo and recalls for FI runners leaking fuel. We have a J30 with sunroof problems the battery drains and gets horrible mileage. We had electrical problems with our Landcruiser and both the Landcruiser and our old Corolla go through powerwindow cable. when someone broke into my first Jetta the glass destroyed the cable but, I changed it myself. When it happened on the Corolla I couldn'tdo it myself. The Landcruiser has gone through alt., power steering pump and minor elec. probs. and only has 85000 mi.
  • jchagtdijchagtdi Member Posts: 55
    UH OH...I just visited a VW Dealer tonight. I drove a 2005.5 Jetta 2.5 auto w/PKG 2. It had 119 miles on it. Dealer claimed it was a hail damage car. The trunk latch was broken (perhaps it was this Plat. gray Jetta that fell from the transport truck???)

    The car drove like a dream. I was most impressed with the 6 spd auto and the sound of the 5cyl motor. It felt much like driving a Volvo S60. The luxury items in pkg 2 like 3 way memory for drivers seat and power pass. seat are a pleasant surprise in a car like the Jetta.

    The price is about $5000 off sticker. I'm suspicious about this car, but I'm sold on the A5 Jetta!

    Also drove an 06 Jetta TDI manual PKG 1. I'm really looking for Jetta TDI w/ PKG 2, but there are slim pickings left on the TDIs... the 2.5 is not as bad an alternative as I thought it might be.

    PS- I was surprised to see that the 07 Rabbits on the lot were all assembled in Wolfsburg, Germany VIN WVWxxxxxxxxxx.
    Perhaps we're getting the German built cars until the Puebla Mexico plant is up to full speed??? Get ready for Mexico/Germany build quality p*issing matches on the Rabbit forum!
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    So, you going to get the 05.5 Jetta?
  • jchagtdijchagtdi Member Posts: 55
    No. I've searched dealer inventory within 100 mi of my home and there are a handful of these 05.5s out there. I am afraid of the possible problems I may have where this car's past is suspect. I'd prefer to spend the extra dough and get an 06. There are tons of 06s left. I may find a decent deal on an 06 pkg 2 over the next month or two..
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I would guess you WILL get a good deal on a '06. Good Luck!
  • jettaturbofanjettaturbofan Member Posts: 6
    Hi,

    I have a 2000 Jetta 1.8 T and was having this problem of constant check engine light coming on with the "P0411 SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM INCORRECT FLOW DETECTED STORED IN DTC" and the VW Technician could not find anything wrong anywhere and he would clear the code and asked me to ignore it. Eventually that led to my MIL (bulb - LED) to burn out and when I recently got that LED replaced, the MIL is back on with the same code and also something wrong with the Oxygen sensor.

    Could it be related to the software update as posted or something else? Am unable to find a reliable VW tech/dealer in Atlanta area.

    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    THese 2 codes may be related. If I recall, the "secondaary air" is fed into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter ignite. The oxygen sensor code may be a symptom and not a failure with the O2 sensor itself.

    You really need to find somone who is familiar with emissions systems and how to diagnose problems with them. If your are so inclined, a VAGCOM may also be an option for you.
  • ziplockziplock Member Posts: 5
    2003 Jetta bought used. The brakes seem a bit soft but the vehicle stops. If you rest your foot on the brake peddle, as in waiting for a light, the pedal migrates tor wards the floor to the point you can pin your other foot under it. It pumps right back up. First mechanic changed out two master cylinders, the dealer went to replace the master with a new one and found it very defective, then had to replace some other cylinder. While it is better the pedal still migrates to the floor. $800 bucks and I don't trust it. Is this normal for these cars or is this a sign of things to come.
  • ziplockziplock Member Posts: 5
    Truck. When you release the trunk is it suppose to open up by itself or do you have to open it. I drove a new 2006 Jetta and the trunk automatically opens wide. Which is kinda nice.
  • ziplockziplock Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know of any after market noise kits for the diesel. It seems a bit noisy.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Ziplock, you have a lot of questions - I will attempt to answer.

    lets get the easy ones out of the way.
    *) NO -- the trunk DOES NOT open when you 'release' it. (I like it this way, an accidently 'released' trunk wont open up on the highway or fill with rain overnight)
    *) The TDI is very quiet for a diesel engine. VW has already done everything possible to make it quiet. (I wonder if your engine-cover is not installed?)

    The best "kit" available is to always-ALWAYS use a diesel additive which increases the Cetane. It can make noticable difference in quieting the engine. I put ~6oz of additive in EVERY tankfull of fuel and regularly get over 650 miles per tankful. (Vermont to Ohio on ONE tank of fuel...This is over 55MPG)

    ---------

    NOW-- on to the more difficult question - your brakes.
    VWs have VERY powerful brakes. my 2003 TDI can throw somthing off the passengers seat by just touching the brake pedal with my big toe. Your brakes are NOT RIGHT!

    The brake pedal is NOT supposed to sink to the floor. This phenomenon is most often caused by bad master cylinder. There are few other possible causes for a sinking brake pedal. (ABS accumulator?)

    Dont forget that a diesel engine DOES NOT have a supply of vacuum like a gasoline engine so there is a seperate vacuum pump on the TDI. This distinct difference needs to be considerd when working on TDI brakes.

    You also say that the brake pedal feels "spongy" I am wondering if there is air in the hydrolic system. The ABS system is very difficult to bleed if air gets in it.
  • chaosmommachaosmomma Member Posts: 1
    My poor little car, I love it so. The A/C drain is clogged up with nasty leaves, and now the water dumps out from underneath the glove compartment down on to the carpet. :cry: Is there a cheap easy way I can clean out the mess that's clogged up this drain without having to take it into a mechanic? I have other more important things for the mechanic to look at for me! Is there a website where I can find the schematic or diagram of the engine of my car so Hubby can do this stuff for me? Thanks to any and everyone who aids me in my life long quest to be lazy and cheap! :shades:
  • ziplockziplock Member Posts: 5
    Thank you that is very helpful. I'll try the additive. The car has been through 4 (four) master cylinders since purchase. This does not count the one the car came with. I guess it is time to research ABS accumulator. While the brakes are marginally better than when purchased the sinking pedal does not seem right. Thank you again.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if you kindly ask a shop with an air compressor to give it a blast of compressed air up the evap drain line, you can give them a little tip for their time.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your cold-startup noises may be the valvetrain before the oil-pressure builds up. Hydrolic lash adjusters need oil-pressure to do their job. VW engines have made this sound for at least 15 years. (ever sense VW change over from solid lifters to hydrolic lifters)

    I know that some vehicles make "gulping" sounds when the level in the fueltank is at a point where one can hear the sloshing of the fuel within the tank. Perhaps that is what your are hearing?

    Relax - you are "learning" the sounds that your new car makes. They will become commonplace background sounds as you get accoustomed to them.

    You should be concentrating on performing a good break-in of your new engine so it will give you many years of trouble-free service. Now is the time you should be concensencly thinking about your new engine as you drive and how best to wear-in the moving parts. This includes occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coasting so the rings seat well. (and never EVER use cruze-control while breaking in a new engine)
  • conessconess Member Posts: 15
    Thank you for the feedback. It definitely calmed my nerves. On a side note, any recommendations on breaking the engine in? I am currently at 500 miles and to this point haven't gone over 65mph. I try to keep the speed changing and never put the car in cruise control or even at a constant speed. I plan on doing this until after about 1K miles.
  • jessyjessy Member Posts: 4
    I really feel like the girl who cried wolf here.
    I have had my jetta 2.5 for a month, lux package, NAV. I love it except I am getting about 257 miles per tank. I have around 950 miles on car so far.
    The service guy told me not to bring it in, this is normal as the cars break in. But seeing as it is leased and I only have 10,000 miles per yr, I do not have the patience and feel the jerk should give me gas money.
    No one else I know with a VW seems to be able to relate to this. Can anyone relate or share some wisdom?
    Thanks so much!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you are already doing a good job of break-in. The first 500 miles or so are CRITICAL as some of the moving parts have a pretty tight fit and can overheat from friction before they are burnished-in. As the microscopic high-spots are worn down, the engine will loosen-up.

    I still contend that after about 1000 miles, it is good to use occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coastdown. The accelleration forces the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls. The coastdown, allows the rings to "float" and also makes sure things cool off a bit.

    You will find that the MPG will increase for up to 20,000 miles as compression builds and the moving parts get burnished in. Also, well-seated rings will reduce the chances of ending up with an engine that consumes oil.

    If the cylinder walls get "glazed" before the rings seat, it is almost impossible to get the rings to seat. An engine in this condition can have low MPG and burn oil for its entire lifetime.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I don't know anything about this, but have read that all this ring seating and such is no longer something to concern youself with on today's engines. We just followed what the owner's manual said to do, when ours was new.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You are correct that todays manufacturing methods can put a much better finish on the cylinder walls. But folks that actually MEASURE the compression of their engine at regular intervals can attest that there is still some ring-sealing going on for many thousand miles.

    Thus, any behavior that consencesly helps the rings seal is benifecial to MPG and engine life.

    The owners manual break-in process is basically some guidelines to help non-technical folks not destroy their new engine. This protects the AUTOMAKERS from having to replace an engine under warantee that was trashed due to poor break-in. It is not really intended to provide a complete guide for best engine performance.

    Personally, I expect more from my automobiles than many folks. A minimum of 12 years and 150,000 miles of service. I also like the >55 MPG that my TDI is now giving me. I know that careful break-in has contributed to this. With todays fuel prices, it is nice to get over 650 miles per tankful.

    I also know folks that have to add oil to their engine regularly. I NEVER have to add any oil between the 10,000 mile oil-changes. Again, this can be traced to a carful break-in when the engine was new.
  • tmvp24tmvp24 Member Posts: 2
    Hey all! So, a friend of mine has been trying to do the computerized diagnostic on my 98 Jetta. Apparently it is not in plain view or in any of the obvious places. I would appreciate if anyone knows where to hook up the computer, I would appreciate it. Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles