Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

cosmo · October 2006

Responding to your question is difficult because it is unclear what you mean by a tank. Some people consider the 1/4 level as a time to refill, others when the warning light comes on, and others when the needle is right on E. What is the actual mpg you have been getting?

bpeebles · October 2006

Jessy - As I recall you got a lot of very good suggestions the last time you asked that question. It appears that the very same suggestions are being said again for this time you complained about MPG.

You may wish to RE READ all those past suggestions.

Bottom line:
1) Consensly think about how you are breaking in your engine.
2) Consensly change your driving habits to improve MPG.
3) Engine is not "loosend up" in for at least 15K miles.

Actually MEASURE your MPG.... judging from a "tankfull" is not accurate because of many factors including;
*) size of fuel tank
*) behaviour of fuel gauge needle (as compared to other cars)

BTW: I constistantly get between 600 - 700 miles per tankfull on my TDI 8-)

I also write down EVERY drop of fuel that is put into the tank and the milage. I KNOW that I can get up to 56 MPG on my Jetta.

fish8 · October 2006

This has already been asked, but how much gas are you putting in your car when you fill up? If you are filling up with half a tank left then your 200 mile range is not accurate. 1/4 tank left? Please tell. 250 miles with 1/4 tank left on city driving is not too bad.

I asked these same questions back in Aug and don't think you ever answered them.

mwebb11 · October 2006

alright so here's my pickle... i just bought an aftermarket cold air intake for my 98 jetta, and the first problem i might have is keeping all the necessary electrical hooked up for it to function correctly... i dont' want my jetta to act up or any warning lights to be on... so if anyone has installed an intake on their jetta, an tips would be GR8!! secondly, if i do install it now, is it going to cause me problems in the winter... i don't want my fuel line to freeze up.. i'm pretty sure i won't have a problem with h2O getting into my engine cause it will be pretty protected, but should i install it before winter or wait.. I DONT WANNA WAIT THOUGH

:confuse: oh yeah.. my dang blinkers both "work", but they flash too fast... and very dimly... should i just a higher wattage bulb in them... the fuse looks good, but can it still be bad without being burnt out?

jettaturbofan · October 2006

Sorry for the late reply .. I got a VAGCOM code tested and it shows up as P0411, the o2 sensor code does not show up but I still have the cel on. Upon talking to a dealer - he thought the best way was to get it diagnosed there since they are better equipped and can better troubleshoot.

Can the VAGCOM be different from what the dealer has?

thanks

bpeebles · October 2006

The VAGCOM is no better or worse than the computer which the dealership uses. The real trick is the SKILL which is used to diagnose a problem. Most dealerships DO NOT have some special skills.... but they do have access to troubleshooting information which many folks do not have.

A VAGCOM used in conjunciton with troubleshooting skills is no less effective than a dealership computer.

BEWARE: Most dealerships will CHARGE you to just hook your car up to their computer (somthing you already did with VAGCOM anyway.) Theere is no guarantee that a dealership will actually FIX anything... their main job is to make $$. They will gladly charge you for labor to change parts and charge you for the parts too. (irreguardless if they actually fix anything)

=======
I looked up "P0411" it comes out as "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected" (but you already knew that)

"P0411" also is VAG code "16795"

Soooo you need to first understand what this errorcode is telling you... then you can begin to troubleshoot.

dwsjps · October 2006

The check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer who ran the diagnostic. HE said it needed a new catalytic converter. With only 82k miles this bothers me. I drove it off and said i need to think about it. the light went out for a while then came back on. Makes me wonder if I should pay the $830 the VW dealer is asking. HAs anyone had a problem like this or have ay advice? It's a 2001 2.0 Jetta.

mfb1 · October 2006

New to the board, please go easy on me...

I have a 2000 VW Jetta GLS, 4 cylinder, 2.0 with 79,500 miles on it. Recently, I've discovered a strange problem with the car...

The morning start (cold start) idles extremely low and sometimes dies on me. Once I get the car running, take it for a drive, the start/idle problems disappear for the rest of the day. Like a ghost, they're gone (until the next morning). I've taken it to just about every shop I can (besides the dealership) who I just don't trust. Nobody can explain it. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the platinum spark plugs, nothing seems to cure it...

Anybody have any idea what's causing this?

Thanks in advance. Great site, great people.

bpeebles · October 2006

On your 2001, the Catalytic converter (and all the other emmissions equipment) are covered by the "Federal Emmissions Warantee" which basically states that the MANUFACTURER must cover all emmissions equipment for 10 years and 100,000 miles. (Different model years have different coverage thru the "Federal Emmissions Warantee")

Read the "Federal Emmissions Warantee" booklet which came with your car when you purchased it.

I believe the emissions warranty is part of the federal Clean Air Act, so the dealer shouldn't be able to duck out of honoring that part of the warranty.

Basically, the Feds are the ones that mandated that the automobile manufacturers meet the clean air act... and their products must meet the standards over the life of the vehicle. (not just when it leaves the factory) If a vehicle DOES NOT meet emmissions standards... it is the MANUFACTURER that is responsable to pay for failed emmissions components (ie... catalytic converter)

bundschu · October 2006

I had similar problems with a 2001 1.8T very soon after I bought it (~20k miles) they did the converter (no cost).
the engine lite went off for about 3 weeks then came back.
I didn't note any problems after the light went on. Gas milage
was consistant with that before the light went on. I drove it for 2 years until it was time to inspect. I took it to a
reputable guy I know. The code (I don't remember) but he said
the code indicated a rich mixture but because it was running
GREAT he didn't want to do anything other than blow some air
down the throttle body. Light went off for about 6 months.
When I came back on, I decided to try the same thing only I did notice a buildup around the butterfly. I cleaned it up with some starting fluid and a tooth brush and the light went off. So what I'm saying here is check out what it looks like around the butterfly. If your not getting the right amount of air intake, the computer thinks there's too much fuel.

bundschu · October 2006

I'm new here so bare with me. I have a 2001 1.8T Jetta. The problem I'm having at the moment is that out of nowhere,
when I accelerate, it starts hesitating and there is no
power. It runs fine at idle. When I finally do get up to speed
it seems fine until I fo to accelerate again. When the hesitation is occuring, the engine light is flashing.

I'm thinking injectors or the ignition coil here but at $118 a pop fo rthe injectors, I want to be sure. I have 113K miles on it. Thanks in advance.

bpeebles · October 2006

the 2001 1.8T was "recalled" for faulty ignitors. If your ignitors were not checked/replaced... then suspect one or more of them is cutting out under load.

As I recall, the partnumber suffix imprinted on the ignitors is a way to tell if you may have a questionable one in your hand.

Also, you may wish to verify that the turbocharger is supplying the expected boost pressure. A turbocharged engine with no boost would behave EXACTLY like you describe.

highender · October 2006

seems like you are a VW expert....I wanted to seek some advice...or experienced opinion :

the previous owner of my jetta tdi was also a mechanic hobbyist...and went out and did some modifications to the car.

1- new Mass air flow body
2- No EGR back to intake manifold
3- larger injectors,
4- new,ECU chip

The guy looked like he know what he was doing, he had all the spare parts..used parts, and could speak intelligently about the mods. However, do you think all this will significantly decrease the longevity of the engine ? Providing that I do all required maintenance on schedule?

thanks...

pmorg1 · October 2006

I have a 2002 Jetta with 1.8L Turbo. The MIL lamp comes on from time to time with code P0171 (Lean Fuel Mixture Bank 1). Just about as often, the MIL light goes out in a couple of start cycles.

Anyone know what might be causing the Lean Mixture or if this is a common problem with this car ??

Any help much appreciated.

bundschu · October 2006

Yes. I'm aware of this recall - thanks. I had them replaced
under this recall at ~20-25K miles. Givn what you suspect with
the turbo, I think I'm going to look there as I don't hear it
"winding up" at 2500 rpms or so.. Thanks!

zjhh26 · October 2006

What's it mean when my 95 Jetta beeps at me 3 times? I don't have an owners manual. The electrical system seems to be going downhill fast. Thanks for any help!

bundschu · October 2006

Any advice on troubleshooing a turbo? I checked all the air
connections and all the engine fuses in the fuse box.
Thanks in advance.

dwsjps · October 2006

I have the '01 2.0 4 cyl, and this is the corective action for the P0171 code:

1. Check Fuel P">ressure Regulator and residual pressure
2. Check Fuel injectors
3. Check intake air system for leak
4. Check Fuel Pump
5. Check exhaust system for leaks
6. Check secondary air intake for seal
7. Check vacuum lines for proper seal

dwsjps · October 2006

Thanks for the note on the cat conv. However, I just told the dealer thsi and they said only the AVG Jetta engine model was covered to 100k, and mine the AVH was only til 80k. Sucks for me cuz it just went over 80k last month. If you had anything that you thought would help me get them to pay for it, I'd send you $50 bucks :-)

600kgolfgt · October 2006

I would have the voltage regulator checked. It is mounted on the back of the alternator (with two screws - the black plastic cover will need to be removed) and has two spring-loaded copper brushes which ride on the alternators' rear copper ring. Check the condition of the brushes on the voltage regulator. If the brushes on the voltage regulator are low, but the grooves on the alternator's copper ring aren't worn down significantly, you will only need to replace just the voltage regulator.

If the alternator's copper ring has very deep grooves, then it's time to replace the entire alternator (new alternators have the voltage regulator already installed).

HTH

zjhh26 · October 2006

Thanks!

bpeebles · October 2006

The updates to your TDI may actually reduce chances of problems. Although disabling the EGR is illegal... it also elimiates one of the most nagging problems with TDIs (intake plugging)

bpeebles · October 2006

The only thing I can tell you is that I was under the impression that it was the MODEL YEAR and not the engine-type that determined the length of the "federal emmissions warantee" Again... READ the original warantee paperwork that should be with your owners manual... that should take precidence over whatever "word of mouth" the dealer is telling you.

bpeebles · October 2006

Suspect your MAF sensor... it was recalled by VW for exactly those symptoms.

Here is the link to the recall notice.
http://users.adelphia.net/~peebsrus/MAF-Refund-Page1.jpg

I realize your 2002 does not fit into the recall range... but it is a place to start. There are some other possible reasons you could get this "lean" code. (ie... faulty O2 sensor)

The reason it "goes out" is because the computer will "reset" the code after some number of "trips" that do not throw code.

BTW: An inline 4 cylinder engine only has ONE "bank"... a V-engine would have 2 "banks"

pmorg1 · October 2006

Bpeebles.....

Thanks for the info. This is my daughter's car, but I am in charge of keeping it going. About 3 months ago, this Lean MIL code showed up, found that the a crankcase hose (Y shaped and expensive) had a tear in it allowing outside air in. Replaced it and the Lean MIL code went away, but I wondered if the MAF might have been contaminated.

Maybe it has. Any idea what VW gets for a new MAF sensor ??

bpeebles · October 2006

I can relate to being the Dad who maintins a daughters car. I have 2 daughters - both with VWs. With 3 VWs in the family, I was able to justify purchase of VagCom to troubleshoot VWs.

A VagCom goes deeper than just "reading the codes" and is able to help you isolate the failing component.

There is no need to go to VW for MAF... there are several online VW parts suppliers if you need to purchase one. Here are some examples.

http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.bestforeignparts.com/
http://www.autopartsworld.com/volkswagen_parts.html

cruzer80 · October 2006

This is more of a stress-relieving rant than a question. I have had my 2000 Jetta for 3 1/2 years now and since then the clip that closes the lid on the center console has broken TWICE, the plastic hinges on the glove box also, broke TWICE, and the cup holder is non-existant now because after being broken for about a year, it finally fell out completely! Does anyone else have these problems, and do they know where to get cheap replacement parts?? Or if not cheap replacements, maybe a decent cup holder that will keep my coffee from spilling all over the place in the morning??

Oh, and the lights in the console that light up the air/heat dials only turn on when they feel like it---it drives me nuts!

Thanks for listening to my rants!

whynot2 · October 2006

Just put a VW jetta back on the road after sitting for 2 years. After cleaning the mold from the old gals interior. She needed a new oil pump, belts, battery and CV joints.To be expected. She worked fine for a few days then got strange??? Now the oil pressure light blinks on and off, the charging light started flickering and is now on all the time, radio asked me for the code (which I have) then it shut right down besides when I turn it on the light comes on and I get a short "burp" from the speakers? Any Ideas?

mwebb11 · October 2006

yeah.. where's the german engineering we all love when it comes to interior parts??? my glovebox handle is also broken, and i don't think $46- is well spent on a new clip.. at least it broke off when the glovebox was closed... as far as your console lights, check your fuses... of course. junkyards almost ALWAYS have these types of parts.. heck you could bye a whole new glovebox for the price of the handle the dealer would charge. i'd check into it or maybe try vwsalvage.com... just helping

dancerman · October 2006

2002 GLX. My climate control lights sometimes don't light. If I bump the side of the housing lightly they come on and stay on. This doesn't bother me. My center storage lid latch broke once. I replaced it and now I'm more careful with it. No problems with glove box but I seldom uses it. No problem with the cup holder and we use it everyday (both sides).

I have noticed that my driver side, driver window switch does not work useless you push it down all the way. Now this irritates me.

meklenk · October 2006

So I came back from a long weekend and my battery was dead. A friend went to jump the car, and he hooked up the jumper cables wrong, resulting in the jumper cables bursting into flames, but it seemed as tho both cars were ok. However, now my passenger doors will not unlock using my switchblade remote - they will only unlock using the manual unlock button in the drivers' side door. (The drivers side door will unlock with the remote, but no others.) My question to the forum is this: was this from the battery dying or could the screwed jump attempt have somehow fried the electronics? The car seems to be working in every other way... I have an '02 jetta GLS. And I SWEAR to you that I didn't hook up the jumper cables. :-)

cacorb · October 2006

Did you ever figure out what the cause of these leaks were? I have had the same problem with 2002 Jetta and last week had about 1" of rain water in my car with all doors, windows, and sunroof securely shut. Now, the stench of mildew is overwhelming. The car is currently sitting at the shop and I am waiting for them to figure out what the problem is!

deaner14 · October 2006

I've had the same issue and was able to resolve it by making sure the drain lines from the sunroof were clear. Free of "stuff".

There is a nipple on the inside of the front doors that manages to accumulate small rocks (from shingles), pine needles and other assorted grunge that impedes the draining ability. Plus, with the Texas heat, my passenger side exit valve was effectively closed until I reamed it our with a micro screwdriver.

The rear drain holes I couldn't access without taking off the sunroof, but I was able to clear the exit holes (near the back of the car underneath). Amazing what you can find in there.

tom007 · October 2006

CAR SAT FOR 3 DAYS WHEN TO START CAR ALL DASH LIGHTS COME ON, IT CRANKS BUT DOES NOT TURN OVER. ANY ADVICE?

bpeebles · October 2006

Those symptoms sound like the immobilizer. You can try another set of keys to rule that out.

bradless · October 2006

Hope this might be of some help . . .

I had a leakage problem in a '95 Jetta that I owned. I discovered the source of the problem - the water from the sunroof was routed via channels that ultimately ran under the backseat. When I lifted up the back seat there was a hole in the channel. It appeared that the hole was formed due to a automated welding mishap when the body panels were welded during manufacturing. I just fixed it myself with something like rain gutter putty/sealant. By the time I realized that this problem existed there had already been damage to the computer that controls the transmission (which was contained in a box that was also under the back seat. Because the computer that controls the transmission was damaged I eventually ended up with a ruined transmission. Fortunately the vehicle was still under warranty and they replaced the transmission for free, but overall it was not a good experience. Some little thing like a bad weld that exposed the sunroof drain channel ended up ruining the transmission.

This whole experience turned me off to VW for a number of years. I recenlty purchased an '06 GLI and I'm having some rattles. This doesn't bother me too much if we can isolate the source and fix them. I've had it in for service but we didn't isolate the source. I now think it's been isolated (the door opening mechanism inside the door - if I press on the opener where your thumb goes I can make a rattling sound inside the door). Otherwise, the new GLI does seem quite a bit better than my previous Jetta re interior quality, engine, transmission, etc... and it is really fun to drive.

amber1813 · October 2006

I own a 2002 Jetta TDI. In the past year and a half it has cost me $3,000 in repairs. First I had to replace me glow plugs, then it was the wheel bearings, next the water pump, and recently the alternator. To replace the alternator we had to remove the power steering pulley and remove the power steering mounting bolts. (Note: Serpentine belt was changed during alternator replacement.) After that the power steering pump was making a funny noise. The power steering pump was bled according to the Haynes manual that I have and fluid was added. The car has been driven for approx. two months. Today when replacing the headlight we noticed that the power steering pulley is cracked and wobbles vigorously when the engine is on. The part is only $17, replacement isn't that difficult. I am looking for some information on what the possible cause could be in order to prevent the same thing happening with the new pulley. :confuse:

missytgould · October 2006

I have 55K miles on my 2003 Jetta 2.0. I have an automatic transmission and I have been having the following symptoms that the dealership can't seem to 'duplicate.'

* After sitting for a while (a few hours or overnight) and I go from Park to Reverse to Neutral to Drive there is about a 4 second delay. If I step on the gas immediatly, the car jerks in to drive.

* Also, the past 2 weeks there have been a few isolated incidences where I will be at a stop and begin to accelerate (not at a ridiculous speed or level of RPM's)and when car hits about 3000 RPM's at about 20 miles per hour the car feels almost the transmission dropped out. I'm not sure how i explain it. It doesn't slow down or stall the car but its almost like I hit a huge potholes but there is nothing on the road). When it does this, there is no sporatic change in the tachometer. But I know that it is not normal.

I took the car to the dealership to have the shifting delay problem looked at and the dealership charged me $175 to diagnose the problem, that they couldn't duplicate. All volkswagen models have a 60,000 powertrain warranty so I was a little confused as to why they charged me for that service. And I'm afraid that they will continue to charge me for the diagnostics.

Any advise would be great!

missytgould · October 2006

I am having a similar problem with my 2003 jetta 2.0 . And I wasn't sure how to describe this problem in my recent post until I read yours. Have you gotten any useful information as to what the problem is?

bora1 · October 2006

It's appalling to read that the dealer charged you $175.00 for diagnosis. This is ridiculous and unheard of. Generally, VWs are known to have automatic transmission problems, therefore the dealer should own up and refund your $175.00. In fact, you should demand that they replace the transmission since it is under warranty. Don't hesitate (or threaten) to file a Lemon Law suit against the dealer and VWoA to get them to do what is right. I had a transmission woe with my 2002 VW Jetta, and after raising hell and high water, the dealer replaced the transmission (see my earlier entry in this forum).

Bet advice I'd give you, once the problem is resolved, just part ways with the car.

missytgould · October 2006

Thank you for the advise. I am going to be handling this situation just as you suggested. However, I can not part ways with the car. I've only had it 3 months so there are a few more payments that need to be made on it. Ive had a few other minor issues but they were under warranty and free of charge.

bpeebles · October 2006

It is "Standard practice" to charge for hooking you car up to their computer for "diagnosis". If this leads to you paying for a repair.... then the diagnosis charge is waived.

Otherwise, they would have every Tom, Dick and Harry stoppying by for a free "diagnosis" ... then go home to fix it themselves. Besides, they have to pay for that computer ;-)

You have several options....
*)Purchase yourself a VagCom
*)Go to an autoparts store that offers "pulling the errorcode" for FREE.
*)Locate a VagCom owner in your area... most are more than willing to hook up your car and run thru the diagnostics.

bora1 · October 2006

This is still ridiculous if the car is under warranty. If the vehicle is not under warranty, then by all means pay for the diagnosis. The dealer should be able to spend at least 30 minutes with the vehicle before ruling out any fault. This is not the last time missy will go back to them with this problem. Do you mean to say that the dealer should charge her $175 every time they are "unable" to diagnose this problem?? missy knows her car best... she drives it everyday, as opposed to the dealer. It's a pain having to take a new car back to the shop, especially for a big mechanical problem. Missy paid good $$$ for her vehicle and I don't see the need for her to go find herself a VagCom. Stand your ground Missy, and ensure that you're treated fairly by the dealer. Don't allow them to shaft you around. I bet you missy, they will find the fault with your vehicle once it runs out of the manufacturer's warranty. Same kinda scenario happened to me.

bora1 · October 2006

Isn't it surprising how they (the dealer) will diagnose minor issues and replace them under warranty, but "conveniently" cannot diagnose a malfunctioning transmission problem.

bpeebles · October 2006

(bora1) I guess I missed that this vehicle is UNDER WARANTEE.... by all means, there should be no charge for dealer activities on a waranteed vehicle.

I *can* tell you that I had a nagging problem on my (under warantee) Jetta that only occoured on the first startup in the morning when the nightly temp was below -20F. The dealer was obviously not able to reporduce the CCOOLLDD conditions that caused my ESP light to go on.

I used my VagCom one morning to capture the conditions and print out the diagnostic results. My dealership gladly accepted this printout and replaced the faulty component.

Given that my VagCom has also helped to fix several other VWs in the family, I find it paid for itself several times over.

bpeebles · October 2006

(missytgould) When dealing with an issue that the dealership cannot easaly reporduce, it is important that you take your car in often and make CERTAIN that all complaints are logged.

If issues arrive AFTER the formal warantee time-period, there will be a record of your constant complaints. This may give you some recourse to get resolution to the problem.
I know it is a hassle to take car to dealership just to log a complaint that they will not be able to reproduce... but it may be your only way out.

Dont forget to KEEP every printout that the dealer gives you when you "complain". They may conventiontly "lose" their paperwork. If you can prove that a "defect" existed during the warantee period, then you may have the law on your side.

bora1 · October 2006

VERY GOOD POINT Bpeebles

That's how I was able to win my faulty transmission problem with the dealer and VW of Canada. Records don't lie and they will prove that you have logged a complaint over and over again. In my case, they (dealer) admitted to the problem 3,000 kms after my warranty had run out, and VW was hesitant to honormy extended warranty until legal action was brought up.

kylep86 · October 2006

2004 Jetta 1.8t 34,000miles.
On my way home tonight the the light blinked to say it was overheating. So i looked down and it was right...it was..I couldn't go above 50-55mph before it would touch the red again and blink..You could feel a lag in power, as if to say the turbo was shut off. When i got off my exit, doing anything below 40, it goes back to being normal, and the needle being straight up and down. I'm calling VW monday. Any ideas?

corriec67 · October 2006

2001 Jetta 1.8T (135,000m)
Recurring problem(s):

1) Engine idles a bit high (8,000+rpm) and when the clutch is engaged stopping at a light or stopsign too much gas is fed to engine and car almost stalls out. The tachometer drops below 2,000rpm before "bouncing" back up to about 5,000-6,000rpm. Engine recovers when idling. Usually the Engine light accompanys this problem.

2) Engine does not idle at a steady rpm, but rather constantly "bounces" between 10,000-18,000rpm feeding gas to the engine. Engine light usually remains on, but sometimes disappears for awhile. EPC light now making an occasional appearance on the dash.

Need any assistance or ideas as to what the problem(s) may be. Mechanic often can't "duplicate problem" and does his best to diagnose dilemma. Bills starting to pill up replacing parts and eliminating possibilties. HELP!

bora1 · October 2006

Kylep86, this has happened to me before. It turned out to be a water pump problem. This was replaced under warranty. it could be the same for you. Keep us posted.

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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