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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds like the alarm system thinks that you are using an improper key. Are you certain that the keys you are using are the proper ones for that car?
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Member Posts: 13
    my blinkers are blinking at twice the speed they should be. i already replaced the electrical unit of my ignition housing, and the fuse seems ok, but i have not replaced it. i have read that putting a higher wattage bulb in will slow them down, but they all blink fast. sometimes when i brake or do something they will return to normal :confuse: what could i do?.
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    webb,sometimes fast blinkers are a indication of a burned out tail light,but not all cars.check to see when you have your left or right blinkers on that the rear lights are blinking as well.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with steven39 -- fast blinkers is very often an indicator of a burned-out bulb somwhere.
  • syzygy00syzygy00 Member Posts: 11
    Dear Fellow Forum Members,

    Please advise me. I took my 2004 Jetta to the dealership yesterday for the 20,000 mile checkup. They noticed that the ribbed v-belt was worn on the outside edge. On further inspection, they saw that the crankshaft pulley had a small dent in it that was putting pressure on the belt and causing it to wear. The dent looked shiny and therefore new and they concluded that while driving, a rock must have flown under and hit the crankshaft causing the dent. This is considered an outside influence and therefore not covered under the warranty. The cost to have it fixed will be $270. The service adviser said that they were absorbing most of the cost of the labor. I explained that I only use my car to go to the grocery store and drive to work and sometimes on the highway. He said this could've happened when I was driving as low as 20 mph. My question is, shouldn't this be considered as manufacturer defect that it is not built to withstand normal driving? We had a long discussion and he showed me the damage but he said that the warranty would not cover this. Does anyone have any suggestions on trying to get this covered?

    Thank you,
    Jasmine
  • missytgouldmissytgould Member Posts: 4
    Well I originally posted this the first time the dealership looked at the transmission problem. I have had it back 2 other times since then and, again, they were not able to 'duplicate the problem'. Are they schooled to say this?! Anyway, I was talking to my dad about the problem and he said to take my car to a local tranmission shop that has done lots of work for him in the past.

    Well I waited but got it in there yesterday, explained my problem to them and guess what.....THEY WERE ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. How about that!!

    The mechanic printed the test results and will give me those when I pick my car up. Anyway, I hung up the phone and called the dealership that has looked at my car in the past. Told them I need to make an appointment and she pulls my information up. She says "What are we looking at?" and I told her the transmission. And she was quick to jump the bullet and said "Well how do you know somethings wrong" bolded in B*TCH talk. So I told her that since her mechanics (she is the service manager) weren't able to duplicate the problem, I had someone else look at it and got it to do exactly what I've been telling them it was doing. I proceeded to tell her that I will be bringing those test results with me and she said "Well they won't be the same as our tests...'cause we're dealership and all." And I said "I'm aware of that because their test results showed the problem and yours didn't." The only reason I got lippy was because of the tone she was taking with me.

    So, she says "The next opening I have is January 22nd." So I said "put me down." When I hung up the phone, I was ticked. I called another VW dealer about 10 minutes from me and told them my problem. And his response was "Having those test results from the other mechanic will be a lot of help. And we will definatly fix the problem. How does Friday sound?" So I made my appointment there, cancelled the other one, and hopefully will have a transmission that functions the way it should.

    Hopefully, there won't be anymore negative follow ups but we'll see. After all, it is a car.
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    I have a Jetta 2000 and recently I found some issue with windshield wipers. they are moving really slowly and I need to check for the motor and linkage on arms.
    but I couldn't reach that section because they are covered by a plastic shield.
    could anybody help me to reach the wiper motor or the linkage system.

    Thanks,
    :cry:
  • ccostableccostable Member Posts: 55
    You might want to check your battery and make sure it has good contact with the cables and also that it is not dying.
  • jlf2007jlf2007 Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I am hoping someone can help. My 98 Jetta 72,000, will just shut down if I am driving under 35 mph or at a stop in colder weather. I have brought to local shop and dealership and they don't know what is wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
  • bronxsmamabronxsmama Member Posts: 1
    is it the same rule for when that light is on and the car wont shift out of Park?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This is a common problem with VWs.... and your 2000 is right on schedule to have this problem. I fixed my daughters 2001 last year... and I have had to fix this problem on several other VWs over the years.

    The shafts where the windsheild-wipers rotate are getting hard for the motor to move. The lubrication is probubly dried out. The "fix" is simple enough... lubricate the problem-areas. The tough part is GETTING into the area.

    Another option is to simply replace the entire wiper moter transmission assembly. (which includes new wiper-axles).

    Here is a link to a discussion about this windshield-wiper problem. It discusses both of the options I mention above plus several others. It also has photos and detaild instructions about how to libricate the shafts.
  • auto06auto06 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 2004 Jetta 2.0 (Auto)odm 24,000 mi using quite a bit of oil. 1qt per 1300 mi. What do you mean "This has been resolved"? My local VW states it's Normal to use 1qt per 1000 mi. I do not agree with this!!

    Did the VW dealership or Corp office okay a repair to your engine???
  • auto06auto06 Member Posts: 3
    What brand of 5w-40 oil are you using??
    My 2004 Jetts 2.0 Auto is using quite a bit of oil. VW says that 1qt per 1000mi is normal. I do not agree with VW!! Are that any other VW owners has similar problems; any recall, service bulletins..etc. HELP!!

    I think the 2.0 is used in other model Bugs, Golf..etc. Do they all burn or consume oil at that rate??
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    I need some help in changing the air filter, is there only two screws to unscrew as I have unscrew the two screws and the filter plastic hood still cannot be removed?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Oil consumption was an issue with early MK4 VWs (Model year 2000 - 2001) I have never heard of a 2004 2.0L with an oil-consumption issue.

    Here is the official Oil Consumption TSB from VW

    I wonder if your engine was not broken in properly? (Like using the cruze-control during the breakin period) There is lso a possibility of other factors causing oil-consumption on your 2004. (like allowing the oil to run low or problems with the crankcase-breather) Are you CERTAIN that it is not leaking somwhere?

    In any case, it is not really a "problem" per-se. As long as you keep oil in the engine, it will last a very long time.

    Each of my 2 daughters have 2001 VWs. One of them consumes NO oil and the other one consumes about 1qt per 1000 miles. She carries a case of oil in the hatch and adds as necessarry.
  • taraorourketaraorourke Member Posts: 2
    I was hoping someone could help me with this problem.

    The check engine light on my 2002 Jetta 1.8T came on this weekend while I was away visiting my parents. I drove it about 100 miles with the light on because - well- it was running and I wanted to get there. I took it into the shop my Dad uses (for an oil change and a check on it) and the mechanic ran the diagnostic test. The test indicates that I need a new catalytic converter.

    I bought this car used last year from a non-VW dealer. I bought the extended warranty but the catalytic converter is not covered (figures!!!!!!!!).

    Right after I purchased the car the dealer I purchased it from had to send it over to VW to replace engine coils b/c the car was just loosing power after exiting the highway. That was last March and about 8k miles ago.

    Could this have affected the cat converter?

    Also, looks like there was a recall for this part but NOT on my 2002 Model. (ugh!)

    Any one have the same problems?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Why should your extended warantee cover something that is ALREADY covered under Federal government regulations? All emmissions equipment are coverd by the Federal Emmisions Warantee. You need to read it carefully.

    I beleive on your 2002 that covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years / 100,000 miles.
  • taraorourketaraorourke Member Posts: 2
    Yes, you're right! Spoke to someone over at VW Customer Care this morning. They said all cars are covered under this federal 8 year 80,000, mile warranty. Includes coverage of the:

    Catalytic converter
    Onboard diagnostic
    ECM

    Really good to know!!!! Does anyone know if the warranty requires all service records? I bought my car used so I have mine but not the previous owners.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just a correction - The 8year/80,000 was changed to 10 year/100,000 by the feds. I beleive any vehicle sold as model year 2000 and newer falls under the 10/100,000 (I am not certain of the specifics though...)

    Like I said before READ THE EMMISSSIONS WARANTEE THAT CAME WITH YOUR CAR. That document should be correct for your specific automobile.
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    thank you very much. I got lots of usefull information. i'll try it this weekend and hope I can fix it.

    thanks again
  • yokohamayokohama Member Posts: 1
    Help! Can anybody tell me how to fix my radio? I took the face off because it was coming loose at the top, and I thought it would be easy to put back on once I figured out why it wasn't fitting properly. Now, the power comes on, but I can't get it to "snap" back into place and none of the controls work. Also, all I get is static noise. Did I screw it up permanently or can I fix this?

    Thanks for your help!
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    thank you very much, I replaced that transmision system and you were right. right know it's working great.
  • afussafuss Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 1999 Jetta in november. I've had problems with the check engine light. but it seems to fix itself. Lately though.. the weather has been a bit colder than my car is used too.. at least since i've owned it. When i get in the car to start it once the engine is cooled. the red light beeps and blinks at me. After a little while it goes off. I wasn't too concerned until i started the car after it was half way to regular temp. and the red blinking and beeping started again then soon cut off. I am thinking it's electrical. but i haven't read anything up here that sounds somewhat similar.
    any guesses? :(
  • svargassvargas Member Posts: 5
    I am having this exact problem with my jetta. I have a 2001 1.8T. I love it, but the last six months have been absolute hell.

    Reading your post described my current problem perfectly! Did you ever find what was wrong? My engine light is on, and I took my car in for this exact reason about a month ago.When my engine light came on again two weeks ago I went to have the codes read. My mechanic told me the engine was running too rich on fuel, but he didn't know why. Now my car won't even drive without the rpm's surging out of control.

    Please help if you have any information.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A bad MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) is the most common reason for running rich. A MAF is VERY easy to replace but pretty expensive. (I have replaced MAF in about 3 minutes in a pouring rainstorm)

    Your 2001 was part of an "extended warantee" pertaining to the MAF. Here is a link to the details. ==>
    http://home.comcast.net/~peebsrus/MAF-Refund-Page1.jpg

    When I diagnosed a bad MAF in my daughters 2001, the dealership gladly replaced the MAF at no charge.

    Also, your 2001 may run rich due to bad ETC ( Engine Temparture Sensor). (The sensor incorrectly tells the computer that the engine is always cold... so it injects too much fuel)

    The ETC is less than $20 and is pretty easy to replace, (My daughter and I replaced the ETC in her Gulf in the dark. She held the flaslight and I had it replaced within 5 minutes.)

    PS: If you mechanic really did not know the reasons your engine is running too rich... mebbie it is time to get another mechanic. This is pretty basic stuff.
  • lxs333lxs333 Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 wolfsburg (75000 mileage), bought it new 6 yrs ago and has not given me that much problem excepts some repairs due to the recalls.
    Mine has both MAF and ETC replaced recently, but after driving for about 2 weeks, the engine light is on again and I feel the turbo lag pretty seriously. Can someone share your experience and knowledge about why I'm having this symptoms? Appreciate your help!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There are several reasons that you may be experiencing turbo lag. It could be a $12 solenoid.... or a $1500 turbocharger.

    Without knowing the code which is causing the CEL (Check engine Light), we cannot help you very much.

    Many auto-parts places will "read the code" for you for free. Perhaps if you can tell us the code.
  • arlanbarlanb Member Posts: 3
    My 95 Jetta GL 111 has been running great, but the other day the "check Engine" light went on, but it continued running fine for a couple of days. Then I went out to start it, and it ran really rough for about a minute, then died, and would not restart. White smoke comes from the exhaust that smells like unburned gasoline. I've tried it each day for the last three days, and it does exactly the same thing.
    The oil and coolant are fine. Any ideas?
  • chicagojettachicagojetta Member Posts: 1
    This winter my 2000 Jetta began surging forward from a stop. It only happens when the weather is below 40 and the car is not warmed up.

    It appears that the transmission is engaging after a 1-2 sec delay when I give it gas. Of course this causes a quick surge or jolt forward.

    So far, the geniuses at the dealership have replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Ignition (after pulling some stored faults in the computer)despite my belief that it is a transmission or computer problem.

    I would like to hear if anyone else has had a similar problem (and how it was solved) before the dealership takes anymore of my money for doing nothing. Thanks!
  • esmesm Member Posts: 3
    I got 2001 VW jetta 2.0 with 165K mileage, during warm up and in mornings or eninge is cold, it runs rough and will not accelerate at all, engine scanner shows P1128, long term fuel trim B1 system too lean, help.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    My daughter's Jetta died on the road to the airport.
    She just bought it used 3 months ago. 92000 miles on it.
    The Check engine light has a code for rich fuel. Has been on since purchasing it.
    We had it towed to CarX. They did a diagnostic for $70.
    They said it was the fuel pump.
    They wanted $420.00 for part and $70 to install.
    So we towed it by rope behind my son's car to home.
    We bought a pump from TrePerformance on Ebay.
    $80 for part. $40 S&H (Express USPS)
    I put the pump in but slots on bottom will not line up to tabs on bottom of gas tank. It seems only three line up.
    Connected all and still it will not start.
    Took pressure sensor off at front of engine and there is gas there. Also supply line has pressure in it.
    What else could be wrong?
    What else can be wrong and how should I check?

    I tried the old pump while outside of the tank by connecting it to 12v and it seemed to be turning. Of course it may not be up to pressure.

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You car is running WAYY too rich. The possible fixes may include the MAF or ETS. You need to "pull the code" to see what is up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is VERY unlikely that a fuelpump would make engine run rich. I cant think of any way this is possible. (A weak fuelpump *may* cause LEAN running if it is weak.... but not RICH.)

    A fuel-injected engine runs rich if the computer is fed bad information from a sensor. There are several ways to troubleshoot the sensors. (Or just replace the inexpensive ones and hope for the best.)

    Consider the (Engine Temparture Sensor) then the MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor as the most probable culprits.

    You should have fixed this long ago when you noticed the CEL was on. Your daughter is spending wayy too much in gasoline with the engine running rich. It is well worth taking the time to fix it the right way.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Thank you for the information on the MAF and the ETS. I will replace those.
    But what do you think is wrong that it will not start even with enough gas at the fuel pressure sensor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Basic engine troubleshooting (Which I learned around age 12) says to "read" the sparkplugs.
    This troubleshooting technique holds true if you are working on a 1-cylinder lawnmower...or an exotic 12-cylinder sportscar. (Why do you think that most engine troubleshooting books have several color photos of sparkplug tips in various conditions?)

    By looking at the insulator-tips on the sparkplugs, you should be able to tell a lot about what is going on.

    Another thing I learned around age 12 is that an internal-combustion engine needs only 3 things to run..... compression, ignition and fuel. Using the process of elimination, you should easily be able to determine what the problem is.

    HINT: Determine which of these 3 things is missing ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Another hint.... on VWs, you can simply DISCONECT the electrical plug from the MAF (when ignition is OFF!) and see if that improves things. Somtimes, running without any MAF signal at all is better than running with BAD signals from a defective MAF.

    NOTE: Unplugging the MAF will definately cause the CEL to light up. This is because the onboard computer will fall back into a "failsafe" mode to keep the engine running.

    Also, Keep in mind that another sensor (The O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust pipe) can cause rich running.

    Basic lesson about electronic fuel injection:
    The onboard computer monitors the O2 sensor and adjusts the amount of fuel injected to maintain optimum effiency. The signal from the MAF is used to modify the fuel injection based on airflow into the engine.

    Finally, the Engine Temp sensor is used to further modify the injected fuel based on when the engine is cold or hot. A common failure mode is for the ET sensor to tell the conputer that the engine is ALWAYS cold (even when it is hot)... this causes a rich running condition.
  • trueogtrueog Member Posts: 2
    Hey Guys I need a little help with my 1997 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L
    For the last couple months, when I'm driving my car, inside the cabin area there's a strong exhaust smell that sometimes smells like gas. It seems to be coming in through the vents, and it switches between exhaust smell and a heavy gas smell. It doesn't seem to be leaking gasoline, as I've raised the car and checked. However its fuel consumption right now is out of this world, its horrbile on gas and seems to be dumping raw fuel/ running very rich. I can't seem to figure out what the problem could possibly be. If you guys could give me any suggestions or idea's on what it might be it would make a world of a difference.

    thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Please read thru my past appends to get your answer... I must have answered this type of question 3 times in the past month.
  • 1vwman1vwman Member Posts: 14
    Well 1st system too rich would be too much gas...second the mass air meter is a cause for too rich sometimes....
  • 1vwman1vwman Member Posts: 14
    Mass air meter
  • 1vwman1vwman Member Posts: 14
    all your lights may be blinking but the slightest bad contact can be the cause...gently hit each light when they are fast and see if the jolt fixes the prob then replace that bulb and socket
  • 1vwman1vwman Member Posts: 14
    If it was that way from the start the belt would of freyed before 5k....i have seen it before the slightest thing can get thrown up into the belts and damage a pully...and yeah if the dealer turned the pully into vw they would decline the claim...sorry
  • 1vwman1vwman Member Posts: 14
    its sad but true...1 qt per 1k is the rule...dont agree but they say its ok...I know down the road as the engine breaks in the rings will seal and you will not use as much and the power will get better as well...if it goes over 1qt a re-ring is in order..
  • esmesm Member Posts: 3
    I will research it, but if you know which forum message number it is would really appreciate it, thanks
  • esmesm Member Posts: 3
    With engine running rough, will not accelerate and feel like it wants stalls, during morning time and engine is cold, beside the mass air meter, what is the second item that could be the problem???
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The easiest thing to do is to use the "Search This Discussion" feature on the page bar. You may have missed that, lots of folks do.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Also, you may wish to track the following VW discussions which have lots of good info in them. For the most part... (except for TDI engine) all the VW vehicles are simular.

    *)Volkswagen Beetle Owners: Problems & Solutions
    *)VW Jetta TDI
    *)Jetta Engine Questions
    *)Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
  • trueogtrueog Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input guys. The problem is solved. No thanks to anyone here, most people on this board don't know shiiit. This board probably has the biggest collection of people asking questions to deaf ears, so honestly do your self a favor and join a proper VW online club...
    -------------------------

    I started off by changing OEM Cap/Rotor and Spark Plugs hoping to solve the burning rich problem, and it worked like a charm. Turns out one of my cables was shot, so i must have been running on 3cyc's and the computer was probably compensating for the power loss. This lead to excessive fuel consumption, it was pretty much dumping fuel like a 747 planning a crash landing.

    While I was doing the spark plugs, I noticed my breather hose which looked fine from my viewing side, had actually eroded from the side facing the engine. It had a massive hole in it and i noticed oil residue against the engine. When I removed it, it was fragile and breaking with simple squeezing. I took the part to VW and they quickly found the part for me.

    Cost: $125 for Bosch Spark Plug Cables
    $35 for cap and rotor
    $77 for oil breather hose thingy..lol.

    all prices in CDN.

    I had two mechanics(indies) tell me my engine was shot and no one noticed the problems of one cylinder not working and claimed head gasket as reason for oil smell entering through vents. The car runs like brand new right now and the smell is gone.

    p.s. The only reason I did such a massive write up is to show people that you should always take a look your self before listening to a mechanic, i thought I was in for an engine overhaul.
  • lifelover1965lifelover1965 Member Posts: 6
    Hey every body! It's been awhile since I have been on. I still see an old stalwart:bpeeples is still helping every one. Where's ruking? Anyway, my 03 TDI manual tran with 87k has been running great without the MAF plugged in for the last year and I have been getting great gas mileage (combined 44mpg)Well, I have the 4 year car itch real bad right now (looking to get an 06 Xterra 6sp manual)and I was just ready to put up my car for sale (around 10K)when the belt started squeaking really bad. I took it to my regular mechanic who couldn't isolate the problem. He could see the belt tensioner was leaking slightly and he thought the belt was in good shape. He wasn't sure if it was a bad pulley, belt, or tensioner. So he sprayed the belt down to see if that might help. It didn't. I drove it home and could notice some power surges (the lights would get brighter and you could feel a slight surge like a click) Well, I got it home from work the next day, and then tried to leave an hour later. It started up but when I tried to pull away the power steering was out. I opened up the hood and, sure enough the belt was broken. Is that the only belt? Is it expensive to put in at the dealership? My buddy says he can do it, but it aint gonna be fun? Do you think it was a bad tensioner that caused it? How can you tell? Past experiences anyone? Thanks in advancefor your help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    glad you got your car fixed.

    It's rather unfair to blame a forum for not being able to fix your car by remote control, and really it sounds like the people who don't know very much are the mechanics you consulted---and THEY had the car in front of them.

    Plenty of people get very good answers here...sorry you didn't.
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