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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

1969799101102131

Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your 2003 TDI is known to have issues with the alternator pulley... It is not just a solid pulley -- instead, it contains a one-way device (sorta like a rachit). When this pully starts to go bad, it is said to squeel as if the belt is slipping. Most folks with this problem ususally replace the belt and the squeeling does not get any better.

    A bad alternator pully may also explain why your lights were getting brighter/dimmer. Your buddys thought about a bad tensionor should also be considerd. If the alternator pulley has been misbehaving for several thousand miles, it could have overworked the tensionor too.

    (The reason VW engineers built a one-way device into the alternator pully is to put less strain on the tensionor during decellation)

    Before just putting a new serpentine belt in place, ALL of the pulleys it touches should be inspected for undue wear. A serpentine belt does not just snap... breakage is usually caused by mis-aligned pullies.

    PS: You should consider replacing that bad MAF... my 2003 TDI gets well over 50MPG. (up to 56MPG)....that 44MPG you are getting is pretty lame for a 2003 TDI

    Let me put it this way - If my 2003 TDI got only 44MPG, I would start looking for the problem immedeately. I expect AT LEAST 650 miles per tank of fuel. (usually more like 730 miles per tank)
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Well this is what has been checked.
    The ignition coil has electrical power.
    Fuel pump fuse has no power when key on Acc.
    When the key is in the engine start mode there is power to fuel pump and the fuel pump goes on.
    There is gas at vacuum sensor on the return fuel line.
    There is spark to the distributor cap.
    There is some notice of brown discoloration in the distributor cap. Arcing?

    Sprayed starting fluid into the air intake with the following result:
    A less than a second buck of some type.

    No sign of spark plug wires shorting out.

    Several have suggested the following:
    Hall sender or sensor. Located at the bottom of and inside the distributor.
    The crank shaft sensor.
    The fuel pump relay.
    Some device that has shut off the fuel at the injectors?
    Some device that has shut off the fuel at the fuel rail?
    The injectors are not spraying fuel into the engine?

    I thought the fuel pump primed when the key was in Acc. position?

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It looks as if you "did your homework" and checked a lot of pertinant items. (You are a lot better than many folks that ask "My car wont start can you tell me why?"...LOL)

    I would also suggest that you pull the sparkplugs and "read" them.... if they are "dry" you DEFINATELY have a fuel problem... if they are "wet" then you are getting fuel.

    Given the info you have provided....
    I would say that you can assume that the ignition is OK. (Perhaps ruling out Hall sensor, and crank sensor.)

    The key is that you say the engine trys to start when you spray some starting-fluid in.... this points to the FUEL system not delivering gasoline.

    If this is the case, it is more difficult to troubleshoot than ignition problem. If you can put a pressure-guage on the fuel-rail, that could cut the problem down the middle (rule out pump and pressure system leaving the injector system as the isssue.)

    Let us know how it works out...
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    "The key is that you say the engine trys to start when you spray some starting-fluid in.... this points to the FUEL system not delivering gasoline."

    I do not see where you arrived at this answer.
    I said that the engine only gave like a bump for less than a second.

    There does not appear to be any sign that the engine trys to start.

    I thank you for the info on reading the plugs. I had thought that, and it was the next thing to do. Of course that is after putting on the new cap and rotor. I may just put in the new plugs if I can get to them. The intake manifold seems to be in the way of two of them.

    If the plugs are dry and spraying starter fluid into the air intake hose does not get it started that is why I thought the car is being told not to start. Is there such a item that prevents the engine from running? Would any of the existing relays make it not work if the fuel pressure is too low?

    Should I disconnect the battery and reset the CEL. I know she had a new radio put in that does not need a code. When she purchased the car the dealer wanted 40 to reset the code. The faceplate of that radio was broken so she just brought another for 130 installed at Best Buy.

    The Hall unit would have been 53 and the Crank unit 78 for a total of 131. If I do not need those then I am good.

    How can I fool the system to believe there is enough fuel pressure? Since, I do see fuel at the rail on the left of the intake manifold. At least on the return line under the sensor. This is the line with a blue arrow. I took off the fork clip and as I lifted the sensor there was fuel squirting out. I did not take out the sensor or pressure switch. I just lifted it.

    Any more help would be appreciated.

    Putting this car into any regular shop is pointless. VW is it's own kind of animal. I may have to get it to an import shop where they work on VWs regularly or just take it to a dealer shop. That will be a pretty hefty outlay.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I hope you are not spraying that starter fluid into the intake where it can cantaminate the MAF sensor! You should be spraying AFTER the MAF sensor.

    It is better to pop off one of the smaller hoses near the throttlebody and spray into that opening. (I usuall save spray nozzles before tossing any cans... so I have some spare WD40 nozzles with the thin pipe on it that makes it EASY to get starter spray into the smallest opening.)

    PS: I know what you mean about the center 2 sparkplugs being VERY difficult to access.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Yes I disconnected the MAF and sprayed into the hose after it.
  • jettagyalgojettagyalgo Member Posts: 11
    Hello,

    This is my first car, ever.

    I am taking my car for a service check tomorrow but, I just had to run this by some people.

    When I purchased my car in July 2006 it already at 23,330 miles on it. To date I drove it approx. 2,620 miles.

    I started checking my dipstick a week ago because I was told around 3,000, you have to bring in for oil change, fluids, etc.

    My dipstick was dry.

    I called a different service place and the VW lady told me that the dipstick was tricky and that i needed to bring it in, since I may still have oil in there. She went on to tell me not to take it to a midas, pep boys because it is a european car and they won't know how to take care of it. When I ask to make an appt. the next one was a week and a half away! I asked what type of oil and she said 10w30

    To make a long story short, I took to a pep boys after I purchased the oil and they stated to their knowledge and by computer I was to have 5w30, 10w30 was too heavy. After checking the engine they stated that there was no oil. I put 2 bottles of oil in the engine.

    Now, from what I read in the manual, no warning light comes on for low oil and my engine was not making any type of noises, stallings or anything, but, How can oil disappear from an engine? People are saying that oil does not disappear only gets dirty? I do not see any leaks from where I parked recently or ever.

    Any thoughts? :surprise:
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    The 2.0. VW engine is known to use quite a bit of oil. There are some engines that use minimal amounts and others up to 1 qt per 1000 miles. This high oil consumption, according to VW, is within normal parameters. I had a Golf 2.0. that had a very careful break in period and after more than 100k miles of ownership used only about 1/2 qt every 5k miles.

    Make sure to check the oil in your Jetta at EVERY fill-up or at least bi-weekly.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    ..."I put 2 bottles of oil in the engine"...

    This may or may not have solved the problem/s. :(:)

    There are a couple of things I think you should know and be able to do (item 3):

    1. The actual oem recommended oil dipstick check procedure
    2. The overnight level, (knowing the range between minimum and maximum during #1 item one).
    3. Do a dipstick oil check at no more than 1000 mile intervals. Indeed the information you provided indicates you have a 2.0 engine that consumes 1 qt of oil each 1000 miles or so.
    4. Carry 1/2 qts of the correct specification and viscosity oil in your trunk

    Once you know items 1 and 2 you can CHECK, and if necessary, add oil with a reasonable assurance you are within the min and max ranges.

    Know what the actual specification and viscosity the oem calls for. As you have experienced, even the dealer can be incorrect.

    The OCI or oil change interval is 10,000 miles!! If you chose to go to that interval, given your consumption you can expect to consume an additional 10 qts. This means a 3,000 mile OCI is TOTAL overkill.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Congratulations on owning your first car... and WELCOME to the world of auto-ownership.

    You have already learned that MOST people have NO CLUE what they are talking about.
    *)Lady at dealership was WRONG about proper viscosity. (5w30 is correct for your car)
    *)People that tell you that oil cannot disapear are WRONG. (it can leak or burn off)

    You did NOT tell us WHICH ENGINE you have. Since VW offered 4 different engines in 2003, we really need to know what we are talking about before we can give you any details.

    Since you added 2 bottles (I assume quarts) then there was still some oil in the engine...that is why the oil-pressure light did not come on.

    VERY IMPORTANT!!! THE OIL-PRESSURE LIGHT IS NOT
    MEASURING THE AMOUNT OF OIL IN THE ENGINE. It measures the pressure of the oil being pumped to the bearings. If this light comes on--- VERY SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE can occour within 2 minets of running the engine.

    I think you caught the low oil in time before any damage ocoured.

    BOTTOM LINE: With you "new" car, You need to check the oil EVERY TIME you fill up with fuel. After awhile, you will start to get a better understanding of what is going on.... (how fast is the oil going down and under what conditions does it go down faster...ie highway driving)

    Once you get to know your car better, then you can cut back to checking the oil perhaps once a month.

    PS: If you have been reading the owners-manual... why the heck did you just not read the part about which oil viscosity to use and how to use the dipstick instead of asking somone that has no clue?
  • frankstarquestfrankstarquest Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the battery in my 2002 VW Jetta TDI after it's five year old original died. I tried several times to start the car, but after a few attempts, I turned the key to the start position and nothing happens. HELP!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Trying cleaning and tightening the battery cables.

    Also if you took a battery off the shelf of a store, it may or may not be properly charged up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with the past appender... a "new" battery is not necessarraly a "good" battery.

    Dont forget that a Lead-Acid battery starts to "age" as soon as the acid is put into it. Always check the date-code on a battery before purchasing it. If it has been sitting on the shelf filled with acid for months... it is likely to have very little power in it. (That is why the very best batteries are stored DRY and acid is added when you purchase it)

    In all cases, a new battery needs to be FULLY CHARGED on a charger before it is expected to provide good performance.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    So if I read correctly what you have said, you are on the second battery?

    To hopefully solve the problem, it needs to be recharged. (commercially if you need it done fast). Hopefully you have not worn down one or more cells, so it can be used again. So in the worst case, you might need a new battery. :(

    Hopefully you replaced it with an oem battery. Replacement with aftermarket products can be a bit dicey. The reserve power requirements are greater with a TDI than with a gasser is the real reason. For example, every time you "start" the car you are heating 4 glow plugs. This of course uses even more power in winter.

    The upshot: get and use a "Battery Tender" or similar type product. Use it on some scheduled basis. There are indicator lamps for: 1. needs continued charging 2. 80% 3. to 100%. It has a built in limiter chip, so the battery does not get overcharged. 30-150 dollars, depending on models and capacities.

    The same happened to me at a tad less than the third year mark. The car was/is garaged and sees no "real" winters and the drives tend to be very long. I employ a Garmin GPS and radar detector, sometimes both at once. Barring that essentially even with an oem battery, the alternator does not even bring the charge of the battery back to 80% let alone 100%. LONG drives don't even get it back to 80%. Combine that with how YOU specifically drive, use the battery, environmental conditions, your accessory use, 24/7 daylight running lamps, and/or the fact that almost EVERYTHING uses battery power, it is really just a matter of time before the battery goes down to "weak"(and can not start) without a "Battery Tender" type product.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Hi trueog,

    I had a similar problem with my car (2002 Jetta 1.8T). This was caused by a broken hose (whose name I forget). The dealer should be able to diagnose it for you.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Trueog,

    It was a problem with the breather hose.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    missytgould,

    I hope all went well with your car, and the dealer was able to resolve your problem. Please let me know. Thx.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    I just realized that you were able to resolve the problem with your car. Sorry you were not able to receive help sooner. Some of us do not log on to the forum frequently, but that's beside the point; There was no need to insult the people in this forum. That was unfair and uncalled for. All the best with your car.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Even though the ignition coil had a good spark it was found to be bad by the Twin Imports shop. Cost to diagnose and repair $244.
    $70 per hour and part.

    Wow what a blessing.

    I guess it pays to make sure you take your VW to someone who knows VWs.

    Thanks for all your help.
  • pharrison68pharrison68 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 1996 Jetta Trek and it seems to have an intermittent starting problem. It has a kill switch and sometimes it starts and other times it does not. I think that it may be an electical problem since when it does start it does not appear to have any problems starting. Also, the drivers side door lock also works intermittently. Sometimes it will allow the key to turn and unlock the doors, other times it does not and I have to go to the passanger side to unlock all doors.

    Any ideas are appreciated!
  • mfp1636mfp1636 Member Posts: 3
    This exact same thing happened to me. Except my fuse was blown. I changed that and nothing happened. The dealership wants to charge me $120 to look at it and I would rather fix it myself. Did you ever figure out what happened?
  • mfp1636mfp1636 Member Posts: 3
    When I turn on the car, evertything lights up and works except the radio. I had a completely dead battery, had a new installed a couple months ago and there were no problems. Recently, the temps got super cold here and my battery completely died. I had the car jumped and they accidently crossed the hookups. I checked the #42 fuse and it was blown out with some white residue around it. I put a new fuse in and it still not working. What other fuses should I check besides the drivers side fuse box? This is not the SAFE issue since the radio doesn't turn on at all. The security light does not even blink. Any suggestions?
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    I have a 2002 jetta, and when I close the passenger front door, the door lights remain on...and the center door ajar light stays on...even though the door is closed.

    Someone said it was a door switch. Does anyone know or had it happen to him or her ?

    How can I fix it ?

    thanks...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have answerd this question several times. Please use the search function within the various VW forums here on edmunds.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You can go here and search all of the Jetta discussions at one time. If you have trouble finding what you're looking for, post back and I'll see if I can find it for you.
  • campoutcampout Member Posts: 22
    Hello to everyone on the VW Forum. I own an '03 Jetta GLS Wagon with the 1.8 turbo. It has only 23k on the odometer. My question is as follows. Is it unusual that a battery goes dead after only four years? I have read about the shelf life of the batteries and know about proper maintenance, but after this cold spell we had in the Chicagoland area the past two weeks the car can be jumped but the battery goes dead in about two days. Also, would a battery from Sears work just as well or visit the dealer and get an oem replacement. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanking in advance.

    Sincerly,
    Paul
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's about normal life for a battery. Some go more, some less, but 4 years is "no complaints".

    This info might be helpful to you:

    http://www.galttech.com/research/cars/buy-car-battery.php
  • bakwas0bakwas0 Member Posts: 3
    bPeebles - You mentioned that you had a problem with the Temp Light coming on in the morning on Cold days. I have the same problem and the dealer replaces the Temp Circuit, but the problem is still there.

    Could you please tell me what the resolution for your problem was so I can tell my dealer ?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    03 VW Jetta TDI here. The battery died at the 33 mo mark. Most of the driving was long distance and or over 1 hour.

    Upshot:

    1. Especially for the TDI (so I am not so sure it is as critical for the gasser side) match/exceed the oem specifications when/if you are considering other than oem.

    2. The other important point is get a battery trickle charger (like Battery Tender @ app $40.)

    Prior to the VW, I was used to batteries lasting 9/10 years. (Toyota Landcruisers oem Panasonic batteries)Using the Battery Tender, I have come to see graphically, the VW's charging system does not let the battery get back up to an 80% charge, let alone par (100%) So when you combine that with multiple known and unknown sub systems (to you and me) that draw power intermittently to literally 24/7 with add ons you may or may not be mentioning, this further stresses the system. When you add how you actually use battery power, I think you get the concept.

    I do need a couple of years to tell you if this second oem battery using a scheduled battery trickle charge has let the battery go beyond 3 years. All the best.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Diesel engines seem to be tougher on batteries in general.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Absolutely! So the arcane issue would be does the diesel model have a better, worse or same charging system as the 1.8T turbo? The same death rate hints to me NOT.

    Perhaps I should have said or added it more directly, consult your particular owmers' manual or technical or shop manual for the battery specifications.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't have a Jetta turbo in front of me (hey, why not?) but I do know from past experience that turbo car engine compartments get really hot...so if the battery is in the engine compartment, watch out for that.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It probably needs to be said also, the temperature on the total system in the turbo gassers runs hotter than like diesel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Right...if you have a gas turbo car with the battery anywhere near the turbo tubing, you'd better stock up on batteries.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It would be interesting to see the results side by side.

    I just did this yesterday, drove from the San Jose area to Davis CA. 97 miles one way actual R/T 204 miles. I am swagging you know the route, roads and conditions. Traffic moved at 85/90 but I used the slower lanes for most of the trip each way at app 80 mph average. Passed several time by CHP cars and motorcycles on the prowl. So the one way time was app 1 hour and 15 min. I ran the A/C on the way back app 1 hour and 15 mins (to function the system seals etc).

    Upshot: It took the Battery Tender app 1 hour to get to 80 % charge and another 2 hours to get to a steady full 100%. The battery is app 15 mo old. It has been on an app once per week trickle charger schedule to "top it" at scheduled intervals.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Actually what I said was that my ESP light would come on VERY cold mornings.

    Your "Temp" light is a different problem which is easy to fix. It is VERY common for this to happen on cold mornings when the antifreeze is a bit low. Once the antifreeze warmes up (expands) then its level goes up a little and the light goes out.

    You can add less than one cup of DISTILLED water to a cold engine to bring the level up a bit. This should fix your problem.

    If you need to add more than a cup of liquid, then you MUST use G12 antifreeze. (anything else will clog up the engine passagways)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Did another round trip, same destination, 97 miles one way app 200 miles R/T filled 9.4 gal for 484 miles. Pretty similar traffic conditions but NO CHP.

    Hooked up the Battery Tender (off schedule). This time it took 10/15 min to 80% charge and another 45/50 min to 100% charge.
  • gatorlane77gatorlane77 Member Posts: 6
    2003 Jetta GLX

    I changed out my spark plugs and when I started up my car it was shaking pretty badly. Well I took out the plugs and compared them to my original ones and it was obvious that they were different. I showed them to the guy at the parts store and he agreed. They didn't have the ones that fit so I put the original plugs back in. My car is still running rough and the gas mileage is poor. Before I take it into the dealership and spend an arm and a leg to get it looked at, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on what the problem could be.

    Thanks
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    It sounds like you may have mixed up the spark plug wires, and thus altered the cylinder firing sequence.
  • gatorlane77gatorlane77 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the response. I know that I didn't do that though. VW has made it fool proof when it comes to hooking the wires back up. You physically can't do it.
  • justinboviejustinbovie Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1996 jetta gl, with a 2.0. about a month ago, my cooling fan quit working. I tested the fan moter by giving it a hot line, and it works. I replaced the thermostat, the thermostat switch, the cooling fan controll module, and put all new coolent in,my fan still did not work. i decided to take it in to someone. i ran a hot wire with a fuse to the fan to keep it cool, however it still overheated. I felt my hoses, and i dont think water is running through them, although i know it was during the time the intitial fan problem occured, because i poped a hose. I looked around my water pump, and there is some sort of white powdery residue around it and the surrounding engine components.

    My question is this, could my water pump have burned out when my fan quit working? could this residue have somthing to do with that? Also, does anyone have any idea why my fan still does not work. any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could you have damaged a wire by yanking on it too hard?
  • biofriedbiofried Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1989 jetta diesel with only about 400,000 miles. I hade a fuel line leak and lost prime . I have never had this problem in the past and though I have done all mantainance on this car I can not get the beast primed. I am suffering driving my truck every where and I need my 50mpg's back.
    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    these comments might help:

    Then come back and let us know if they worked and what you did, so we can share that with other Jetta diesel owners!

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2964845
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Congrads on 400,000 miles !!!

    First of all make sure your trouble shooting has systematically eliminated any other problems or fuel line leak in another area of your system.

    So given a "good system" you can reprime either by vacuum or just shoot some diesel fuel (or additive) into the fuel filter. (hopefully you are familar with the R/R procedure for the fuel filter change?) It takes a huge amount of cranking if the fuel filter gets depleted and sometimes it causes more wear than it is worth. So again in a good system fill the fuel filter either with a vaccum tool or just fill it with #2 diesel. So once filled with #2 diesel, because of the almost extreme fuel efficiency you now have to dry crank to fill the now empty fuel lines to the individual injectors.
  • asifgrkhanasifgrkhan Member Posts: 13
    I need to replace the headlamp of my 2000 Jetta (driver's side). Is there any way to do this at home without going to the shop and paying $50.
    The drivers side does look pretty complicated.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Oh yes! However it is really a piece of cake! But what makes it look complicated/hard is it is SO very tight. I did my 2003 Jetta from total dumbs to changed out and tested lamp (drivers side)in less than 10 mins. If you'd asked me to do it 5 mins after getting the hang of it, probably 2/3 mins.

    Now that I have totally forgotten it after a year, it probably will take 10 mins again, plus 15 min longer for I will search the empty memory banks to try to remember how to do it (AGAIN) ! :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    As ruking says, replacing headlamp bulb is pretty simple. With 3 VWs in the family, I replace several bulbs a year.

    Most of the time, I pop the hood in the Wallmart parkinglot and pull out the bad bulb... then go into the store with old bulb in hand to make certain I get the proper replacement. Wallmart carries several "grades" of replacement bulbs.

    The only tool you would need is phillips screwdriver to remove 2 screws that hold a cover on. (the 2 screws are clearly marked with arrows)

    Then, there is a "bail" that needs to be popped over to the side to gain access to rear of headlamp housing. (your phillips screwdrive may help with this task)

    Then, pull the electric connector from rear of bulb.

    Then, there is a retainer ring that twists 1/4 turn on rear of the bulb so it comes out.

    DO NOT TOUCH QUARTZ PART OF NEW BULB WITH FINGERS..lest you will shorten its lifespan.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The only thing I would add to that is to look at the seals to make sure it is clean (if not, clean it) and treat it so it will remain leak less and supple. If I remember correctly, I also used a silicon grease or some such, small amount applied with a Q tip.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here is video link showing how to replace headlamp bulb. The only difference between the video and my instructions above is that they pull the electrical connector off the bulb AFTER removing the retainer ring.
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