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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Bpeebles, ruking1 or anyone - how about writing this up in the CarSpace Guides section? It's fun!
  • jettinjettin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T. On real cold (freezing) or real hot days (90) I lose power assist to the brakes. This happens when you first start the car and usually as I am backing up. After it warms up a little, does not do it anymore. Dealer changed vacuum hose, master / booster and it still does it. They are at a loss and think I am crazy since they can't reporduce when they test. Anybody have this problem, if so how was it fixed?

    Thx Lou
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Is every 2004 Jetta 2.0, VR6 or 1.8T has pollen filter? Is it same as the air filter?

    I try to replace the air filter on my 04 Jetta VR6, but after unscrewing two screws on the filter cabin, I still cannot take out the air filter, will appreciate if anyone can advise me how to take out the airfilter.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The pollen filter IS the AIR FILTER for the CABIN.

    It is NOT the air filter for the engine.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Thank you, Ruking1, so this pollen filter is the filter for the Air conditioning, which every car should have.

    Can you show me how to change the air filter for the engine please?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I could tell you in print but it might be hard to visualize. So to establish a common visualiation, go to www.tdiclub and look for the air filter change video. Since yours is NOT a TDI, it should be a no brainer to adapt for the differences.
  • badvw7badvw7 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 VW Jetta that will not start... It will not even turn-over. The battery is confirmed good. I believe that their is a problem in the shift lock system. When i turn the ignition to the On position the "brake pedal light" momentarily comes on then goes off and I hear a relay click in the shift console (It is an automatic transmission). The "brake pedal light" should stay on until I press down on the brake pedal, which then allows you to shift from park into the desired gear. I can shift it freely into any gear even without pressing down the brake pedal. Also the electronic gear indicator on the dash does not indicate which gear I am in. I am not so sure that this is a brake light switch problem. I could be wrong though. Please someone help...!!!
  • biofriedbiofried Member Posts: 6
    One thing that you can start with is when you turn the key on are your brake lights on? Which will indicate a brake light switch problem.
    Or it may be your neutral safety switch. Try to start the car in neutral instead of park.
  • zzeekerzzeeker Member Posts: 9
    I own a 99 jetta gls with 140,000 miles on it. I've notice a ticking or tapping sound that seems to fluctuate when i feather the clutch in and out. I only hear it on decceleration while down shifting. It is more noticable with the clutch engaged. I've been told this may be the throwout bearing. Has anyone else had this problem? Any idea on how much this would cost to change? The car has the original clutch.
  • rhinoman4rhinoman4 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 Jetta, but mine is starting and will not let me put it in gear (automatic, TDI) and the brake seems to 'drift' really far down before any pressure builds. I do get the brake pedal light, but cannot get it to shut off.
    Is there a ABS or brake module that would do this??
    Thanks for the help!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you are not losing brake-fluid, then that sounds like that may be a master-cylinder problem. Also suspect the vacuum-booster.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd guess internal pressure loss in the master cylinder, presuming you aren't actually losing brake fluid as bpeebles says.

    Vacuum booster defect would give you a very VERY hard pedal and very little stopping power, if you don't have those symptoms, then my two cents is that it's not the booster.
  • lajetta2006lajetta2006 Member Posts: 1
    they're dime a dozen but looking to bring my Jetta2006 value edition in for bodywork. not looking to get ripped off, any kind of input is greatly appreciated. thanks!
  • lappa411lappa411 Member Posts: 3
    HAVING PROBLEM STARTING THE CAR LATELY HAS CRANKING POWER JUST WONT TURN OVER.DOESNT ALWASYS HAPPEN JUST SOMETIMES,FOR THIS MAKES IT HARD FOR MECHANIC TO DIAGNOS.CAN ANYONE HELP.THANKS
    MIKE
  • lyndmaxlyndmax Member Posts: 2
    Be careful with this. I have a 2002 Jetta and have had the same problems as you are describing. I have had the piston rings replaced TWICE. The first time the car was under warranty (happened around 35,000). The second time (30,000 miles later and OUT of the 60,000 mile warranty), I had to argue with VW to cover at least half of the very expensive repair. Do not let the dealership tell you that this type of consumption is normal. It is not. Go to the dealership and have them do an oil consumption test, if it is still under warranty. Document everything and like others have said, make sure you check your oil at every fill up. If you don't catch this before it is too late, you will have major problems.
  • lyndmaxlyndmax Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Jetta GLS with the 2.0 4 cylinder engine. I just had the spark plugs and spark wires, along with the ignition coil replaced, and the mechanic (independent garage) told me that I need to have my timing belt replaced soon. When does VW recommend that timing belts be replaced, and/or when should I really replace it? I don't want the thing to break on me and total my engine! Thanks.
  • pjbreadingpjbreading Member Posts: 2
    Help! I'm getting water on my drivers side whenever it rains or snows!! No sunroof but had work done on the wipers - could there be a plug open where the wires go for the wiper motor or something on the firewall? Thanks- going to dryvac it now and air out since its not snowing today
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well an open plug/seal in the firewall would only be an issue if the "basin" that sits under the wipers (the fresh air cavity) is all plugged up with gunk. There are drain holes down there, and if they get plugged up, water fills up and THEN it can seep through little grommets and plugs in the firewall...which are after all meant to keep out air, not water.

    so you could test for a leak by pouring a small amount of water (half a cup?) into th fresh air vent. It should drain immediately under the car or out a hose in the firewall (just behind the engine) and you should see it dripping on the ground. If you pour water in and it doesn't come out, you have a problem.
  • biofriedbiofried Member Posts: 6
    There is a chance it could be your Glow Plug Relay. Or a fuse. The glow plug relay is a 50amp fuse found under the hood on the firewall near you brake booster. The relay is most likely buried deep in the dash.
    Good luck in the problem solving and I hope this info helps.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    And glow plugs wear out just like spark plugs and need replacing from time to time. On a hard starting diesel, those are always suspect. Also if you have adjustable valves (can't remember on that engine) then adjust them.
  • pjbreadingpjbreading Member Posts: 2
    Thanks going to check it out today!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here is all you need to know about checking/changing your glowplugs.
  • cvonicvoni Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1996 Jetta Gls (88,000 miles).
    My car was stoloen the week before. I drove a couple of days...ran out of gas, fixed that. But, the next day, while driving...I start to slow down...my radio goes out for a min, then the car dies. It turns over...but still not connecting. It WILL start with some ether-based starting fluid, but not on it's own, or STAY running. I replaced the fuel pump, and gas tank (turns out there was a hole in that anyway) then replaced the fuel pump relay...still nothing. Anyone have any ideas...or am I a dumb girl who made a silly purchase?
    Just call me "LUCKY"...just like the 3 legged dog
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    great post! Thanks!
  • subaru_mansubaru_man Member Posts: 17
    I'm thinking about getting the new Jetta 2.0T 6-speed. Can someone give a quick summary of what I can expect to see from a maintenance standpoint? Are the maintenance more expensive compared to Honda's and Toyota's? I hear that the TDI engine requires some special oil and the cost is about $10/quart mail order. Is this true? If so, maybe I should negotiate some kind of maintenance agreement with VW before purchasing the car. Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No I think you can just use Castrol synthetic 5W40, which is CF rated, and you should be good to go. Just make sure your DEALER actually uses the oil the TDI is supposed to have in it. VW kinda screwed up the ratings for a while but I believe the Castrol CF rated stuff solves the confusion for everyone.

    Is maintenance more expensive than a Toyota? That depends on your service contract and what it does and doesn't cover. It's a hard question to answer because the VW may cost more to maintain but your purchase agreement might pay for most of it, whereas the Toyota costs less but Toyota makes you pay for each service.

    What I did when I bought my new car is ask about the service intervals and the estimated costs for each interval up to 60,000 miles, when I planned to ditch the car. I'm a believer in not risking ownership while a modern car is too far out of warranty, and with a German car, that's something to consider in your long term view, IMO. I get nervous around 80,000 miles. Or looking at it another way, one big wipe-out of a major component and all those years of gas savings are down the drain.

    I think on the TDI you get a basic 4yr/50K and 5yr/60K on the drivetrain. Your dealer probably has service packages you can buy, and maybe some are included---don't know about that.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I will answer historically, since there is not much history on the 2007 VW, Honda, Toyota. I happen to have all three but not all the same segments.

    From a DIY point of view on a 2003 TDI 5 speed with 89,000 miles, all I have done is change the oil, oil, fuel, cabin and air filters. All these are so called consumeables. It went into the dealer for warranty, the rear door lock material replacement to replace a plastic part with a metal part?

    Without question the key is to use VW specification oil. You of course can purchase the oil and filter and let whom ever do the change. But once you have an evacuator the oil and filter changes are WAY easy. On the oil and filter change I bought an evaculator (25-45 dollars on up) to do a 5 min oil and filter change. The rest of the 10-20 mins is spent doing clean up!!! You know, wipe everything, put back on the acoustic insulator, recycle the containers, put things away, etc. New car oil and filter changes are recommended at 5,000 miles and 10,000 miles. 10,000 miles past zero, the oil and filter change interval goes to 10,000 miles.
  • biofriedbiofried Member Posts: 6
    I have worked on a 2006 VW TDI and for warranty purposes you do need to use the high grade high cost oil.
    As for how long to keep the car. My 1989 VW diesel curantly has 417K+ miles on it. It is a very reliable car and though I am now using the dreaded gas station fuel in warm weather I use my own home made BIO fuel. not only is it about $0.65 a gallon to make but it smells good when driving!!
    Although my niebors daughter drives there old camery to school every day and it is now up to 392K so it is all about maintenance and how you drive it. Be nice to your quality car. And I stress quality don't try the life long ownership with a KIA or Hyundai. But you never know.
    Good luck with your choice. But if it where me I would buy another VW any day.
  • fateluvfateluv Member Posts: 2
    Hello-

    I have a 2004 Jetta and tonight after my husband drove his normal 45 minute commute home he stopped to pick up my step son at school, got back in the car, it started but the EPC light came on and he couldnt shift whatsoever. The car was stuck! He left it there, unplugged the battery, tried to shift it again and it was stuck in park (car still runs) so we left it there for a while with the battery unplugged, went back about 30 minutes later and at first it wouldnt shift but after my husband pumped the break about 10 times it shifted and we were able to drive it home. What is going on do you think??? In the book that came with the car it says that the EPC light should flash and ours didnt, it just stayed on (but went off when we went back after 30 minutes) at first when we unplugged the battery the light was still there. My car has 30K on it. I just had the oil changed last weekend, everything seemed fine. It does shift kinda funny (sometimes) but not jerky or anything (its an automatic) and sometimes after its been running for a while I hear a clicking sound while its running, it just sounds a little different after its been running for atleats 30 minutes.

    So like I said we got the car home tonight it finally shifter after my husband pumped the break about 10 times but has anyone had this problem and what do you is going to happen now? I cant just keep it like this what if I get stuck somewhere by myself and have to wait 30 minutes for it to want to shift again or something...HELP?!?!?!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you were able to "fix" the problem by pumping the brake pedal... perhaps the recalled brake-light-switch (connected to brake pedal) would be suspect.

    I know that the recall for the brake-light-switch actually MENTIONS not being able to take out of "park".
    Here is copy of brake-light-switch recall.
  • fateluvfateluv Member Posts: 2
    Thank you! I called the dealership and gave them my VIN number and my car does have a "recall" on it. Something to do with the breaks for sure. I dropped it off this morning for them to fix it. Thanks again for your help and I would suggest that everyone that owns one of these cars should go get that checked out. I didnt even get a letter about it, had to find out the hard way.

    -Heather
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes I have read the "recall" letters are slated to go out in April 2007.
  • jettadriver2jettadriver2 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 2003 Jetta GL sedan with manual transmission. Twice, while driving on the freeway, he noticed that the car was not accelerating. Soon after the engine died. Once on the side of the road, the car started right up. He was able to drive off and the car seemed to be fine. We took the car to two VW dealers and neither one could find anything wrong. There was nothing in the onboard computer to indiciate that there was a problem. Has anyone heard of this problem? What could be causing it? Any help would be appreciated.
  • bhyogybhyogy Member Posts: 1
    Hi, this is an old forum that I am replying to and I hate to bug you, you probably do not have the car anymore, but I have a 99 Jetta also with this same problem. It started right after I replaced the battery myself this past cold winter day. I found out later that when you replace a battery in these buggies you should have a power source hooked to the cars electrical system while you change the battery. I was wondering if you had to go to the VW dealer and have them reset the puter or something. thanks Bryan
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The only thing that *might* be affected by replacing the battery would be the radio. If the radio is affected, it will say the word "safe" on the disply.

    It is a simple matter of entering the "security code" to get the radio working again. (It is assumed that you *have* the security code somwhere...)

    Are you seeing somthing besides a problem with the radio?
  • thenamespthenamesp Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I have a 2000 VW Jetta w/ a V-6 and for the past couple of months my car has been acting strangely. One night while driving to pick up some food I went to start off and I pressed my gas pedal and it basically went all the way to the floor without accelerating hardly at all, and then would sputter to change gears (it's automatic). We had it checked because the check engine light was on and they told us that there was misfires...so we changed the spark plugs. For about a week my check engine light was off but it still felt like it was misfiring. We took it back and it said there were 3 misfires again, so we changed the spark plug wires and it seemed MUCH better. Well the next day I took it and had the oil changed and the next day when I drove to a nearby town by interstate it was having trouble accelerating and my check engine light came back on. Now whenever I stop my engine will shake, but it's ONLY when I stop and sit, you can feel the car shake the entire time, then when I start off the shaking ceases but it still will not accelerate well. When I get around 40-45 mph the engine misfires, as well as around 65-70 mph. Any acceleration is hard and going up hill is a nightmare and the engine misfires and the check engine light begins flashing. After spending $200 + dollars on new spark plugs and wires, I'm at a loss at what to do with it. If any one knows what could be causing the problem please let me know! I have a vacation planned in like 3 weeks and I don't want to have to worry about my car breaking down.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    From your description, it sounds as if you are on the right track. After 7 years, I am sure the sparkplugs and wires were in need of replacing anyway.

    The part of the ignition system you have NOT dealt with is the coil. An easy way to isolate it as a problem is to spritz some water on it while idling. (an old windex bottle works great for this task) If the coil is "leaking" the high-voltage, the engine will start to misfire when coil is spritzed.

    BTW: $200 for 6 sparkplugs and wires seems expensive... are you sure that is all that was done?
  • thenamespthenamesp Member Posts: 5
    I had Autozone run the codes on it again (third time) and it's codes PO300, 301, 306. Any suggestions? Should I take it to the VW dealership?

    and as for the price, my brother-in-law installed all the stuff and my spark plug wires were $100, the spark plugs, I'm not really sure because my sister bought them, I just estimated that it'd be around the same as the spark plug wires.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I looked up all the codes you mentioned.

    I think I already said that the ignition coil is your next thing to check (all the sparkplug wires are plugged into it) Test it by spritzing water on it while engine is idling. If engine stumbles at all... the coil is suspect.

    Personally, I would REMOVE the ignition coil and wash it in hot-soapy water. (just like doing the dishes) Use an old toothbrush to scrub it. Somtimes, a layer of grime on it could cause the symptoms you are complaining about. (Worth saving $300 for a new coil)

    IMPORTANT: Make certain that you write down where all the sparkpug wires plug in BEFORE you remove them.
  • tones1029tones1029 Member Posts: 1
    Upon starting my 98 Jetta TDI, especially when it's cold, my headlights, wipers, and heater fan fail to work. The brake light is also dimly lit. After the car warms up and/or I hit a bump, they'll all fire back on again; but that's not to say that they'll all fail again as well. Restarting the car also helps 80% of the time.

    I am assuming I have a short somewhere... but where? Hopefully the fact that all the following are either on or off together will lead someone to a schematic that has all in line or something...

    Thanks!
  • thenamespthenamesp Member Posts: 5
    My Owner's Manual says that if the check engine light blinks (which it does while accelerating, but then stops after it hits the gear) that it could be a damaged catalytic converter. I haven't checked the coil yet, but it does stumble while idle without anything, while I sit at a red light you can see the RPM going back and forth and the engine stumbling. So if it's not the coil, could it be the cat converter?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is extremely unlikely that the catalytic converter could cause misfires. You really need to trust what the codes are telling you and follow through.

    Another reason that I am suggesting that you look at the coil is because you mentiond that the problem got better for awhile AFTER the ignition wires were replaced.... Since all the wires plug into the ignition coil, it may have been 'disturbed' enough to make it work for awhile.

    The blinking CEL is most likely due to the misfiring. If the sparkplugs misfire, that means RAW FUEL (unburned) will be pushed into catalytic converter. Eventually, if you keep driving while it is misfiring, you will destroy the catalytic converter. This is because the raw fuel can cause it to overheat. (the fuel burns in the converter!)
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Member Posts: 13
    I agree, I would definitely start working on your coil and distributor... the sputtering and missfires definitely sound like a problem with these. I don't know about a 2000 jetta, but my 98 had problems the same. Took it to a car wash, got the distributor cap wet (damn undercarriage cycle) and when i pulled out and stopped at a stop sign on a hill, my car sputtered then stalled. I removed the cap, unplugged the plugs 1 AT A TIME , marking there locations, and let it dry out. If you try to run a car with a malfunctioning coil/dist, you will destroy your CC. If one part of the coil is malfunctioning, this means you are running without a cylinder functioning properly, injecting gas with no burn One question... when you are trying to drive at high speeds, are your RPM at an abnormal level... are they higher than they should be. One big sign a cylinder is not working
  • thenamespthenamesp Member Posts: 5
    yes, my RPMs are higher than they should be and are all over the place even when I stop. I took it in today and he said they'll probably have to put in a new set of spark plug wires because a couple of them are shot. Basically I was running on 4 cylinders in a 6 cylinder, not good. Thankfully I have a warranty on those wires considering the fact that I JUST got them. Also, my ignition coil, but he's trying to find one that's less than $500. So my car is in the shop, and he's calling me tomorrow to let me know the prices. This would also explain the extreme amounts of gas I've been burning. So anyone have an estimate price for all this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "This would also explain the extreme amounts of gas I've been burning."

    Correction... you have not been "burning" the fuel... is has gone thru the engine UNburned.

    BTW: Ignition coil for your car are about $300 for BRAND NEW ones from:
    http://www.worldimpex.com/

    Again, I would personally try to get the original coil back into working order before spending any mony on a replacement. There are several options from this perspective.
  • jenhack63jenhack63 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta and I am experiencing the same thing. 2 months ago my check engine light starting going on and off and would stay off for weeks at a time. It then started sputtering out. The RPM goes back and forth and just this morning it stalled 4 times until I could keep it running. I have already replaced the coil pack which was advised per the check engine light. After 4 weeks with no engine light it just re-appeared last week. ERR! Is this something that is covered under the powertrain? I have that 100k mile powertrain warranty.
  • thenamespthenamesp Member Posts: 5
    yeah, my estimated cost was $1300. Basically, I'm saying no, and ordering the parts myself, but I mean he's giving me $395 for spark plug wires, isn't that a little high?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I thought you said that you JUST REPLACED the sparkplug wires while troubleshooting (shotgunning) this problem?? Why do you need to replace them again so soon?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (JenHack63) Please do not suggest your problem is the "same thing" as somone elses... It is very bad assumption to start with that premise. (and usually wrong)

    1st of all - Which engine do you have?
    2nd - What are the codes ?

    Once we have those details, we may be able to guide you to a satisfactory repair.

    As to your question about being covered by some warantee... You would have to ask the folks that are providing the warantee.
  • lappa411lappa411 Member Posts: 3
    just to let everyone know that the problem with the starting was that the ERG throttle body had to be replaced,for it was full of a black substance.enough to keep the butterfly from opening and letting air through.
    mike
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