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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • shwnduganshwndugan Member Posts: 3
    I bought a GLS 03` 2.0 a month ago. After putting 1K on it I noticed that the oil was only half way up on the dipstick. I went to the VW dealer and he said that it is acceptable to burn 1Q of oil every thousand mi. Is this right and if so where is this oil going? I park it in a garage and the area under the car is oil free. I have never heard of a car with 40K miles on it burning ANY oil let alone this amount. If anyone knows anything I would love to be informed. Thanks.
  • cacorbcacorb Member Posts: 6
    I'd be interested in a response to this too. I have a 2002 Jetta and burn oil incredibly fast with no leakage noted in my garage.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have no direct experiences with late model VW gasser engines. In contrast, I have 90,000 miles on a TDI or turbo diesel. With 20,000-25,000 mile oil change intervals, the oil consumption has been a regular 1/4 to 1/2 quart
    (8-16 oz) per 20,000 miles. So with 4.5, 20,000 mile intervals, the TOTAL oil consumption in 90,000 miles ranges from 1.125 to 2.25 qts. The nexus here with the gasser turbos is the (TDI)turbo.

    VW engines have always had a reputation for consuming oil. As a result, it makes sense to check the oil levels at regular intervals. Another consequence, it makes almost no sense to do a LESS than 10,000 mile OCI. In effect if the consumption is 1000 miles per quart (or whatever), you have put up to 10 new (more or less of course) quarts during the 10,000 miles OCI. Indeed that is more than the 4.5 quarts or so that IS normally changed at 10,000 miles.
  • campoutcampout Member Posts: 22
    Hello to everyone on the list. We own a '03 Jetta Wagon GLS with the 1.8 turbo. I don't have a service manual and need to replace the cabin filter. My question is does it install under the dash somewhere or is it under the hood? Any info would be appreciated. Thanking in advance.

    Sincerly,
    Paul
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To replace the cabin filter, THIS LINK may help.

    Here is a movie that shows how to replace cabin filter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Some of the 2.0 engines consume oil. This can often be traced to improperly breaking in the engine when new. (The cylinder walls glazed before the rings seated)

    My daughters 2001 Gulf also consumes oil the same way. She just carries a case of cheap oil in the trunk. My other daughter has a 2001 NewBeetle with 2.0 engine and it consumes NO oil at all.

    Keep in mind this is NOT a problem per se, as long as you do not allow the oil to get low enough to cause damage, this is just an inconvenience.

    "Where does it go" you ask? The answer is "out the tailpipe".
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    Sometimes if the steering wheel is locked at hard right or left I find that I can't shift the car out of park unless I remove the steering wheel from this locked position. I have found this to happen on other cars than my 04 Jetta also.
  • donnaldonnal Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Jetta. Last week I brought the car in for service - new front brakes (pads/rotars) and tire rotation. The next day while drivng the brakes locked up causing tires to overhead/smoke coming out of tire area. Brought it back to dealership. At first they said they could not find a problem but after driving it on the highway, it locked up for them. They uninstalled and reinstalled the new brake pads/rotars and said it was fixed. Within 2 days brakes starting locking up again. What would cause the brakes to lock?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have replaced disk brakes many times over the years. (VWs as well as Asian and Domestic)

    In my experience, there are several possibilities for the brakes to "drag" and cause overheating just after replacing the pads.

    1) Air bubbles in the hydrolic system
    2) Sticking calipers
    3) Pad sliding-surfaces not properly filed smooth and lubed.

    The "dragging" brakes very often show up just after replacing the pads.

    If they "opened up" the hydrolic system, there is the possibility that some air got into the system. Air in the system is usually accompined with "spongy" pedal feel.

    Another reason is because the calipers have to be pushed in to make room for the new pads. This forces the caliper pistons to be "working" in an area in which they were not previously.

    Also, the sliding surfaces where the pads ride against can get "pitted" with use. If this pitting is not filed smooth, then the new pads can bind up. (thus not release)

    You may also wish to ask about your brakes in the forum titled "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    When your brakes lock up, try sticking your foot under your brake pedal and lift up on it to see if that corrects the problem. I have seen posts where a bad brake booster unit can cause this. I have also seen where an impropperly adjusted brake light switch has caused this (did they change you brake light switch as part of a recall?).
  • arlanbarlanb Member Posts: 3
    We towed it to a European-specialist-garage. They did a $150 diagnosis, and told me that there was a large crack in the intake boot (Part $162, Labor 3 hrs. $268, total $449)
    Any chance I could fix this with a little duct tape?
  • biofriedbiofried Member Posts: 6
    If they are talking about the flex tube that goes between the air filter and the intake. Then yes $0.50 worth of good duck tape will fix the problem.
    Gotta love the DUCK. :D

    Dave the Pirate.
  • fpjdpfpjdp Member Posts: 10
    This car has about 74,000 miles on it. When I put the car in drive it will not go into gear until I rev up the engine then it kicks in. It shifts and runs great after it kicks in. Any advice on what to do to solve the problem.
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    I'm driving a 2000 VR6 Jetta. recently I found out when I'm turning the stirring wheel to the left or right I can hear a strange sound which is coming out from passenger side and it's looks like coming out from front passenger side spring. with a close look I understood that looks like the spring is not rotating properly and I think there is some ball bearing or so which is jammed somewhere.
    does anybody have any idea how can I fix this issue.

    Thanks,
    :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Bad strut bearing? Replace both front struts I would guess or at least the bearing and cap. Here's what they might look like (this is for a Nissan).

    http://westfield-et.com/product_info.php?products_id=51
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    Has any Idea how can I replace that bearing?
  • fpjdpfpjdp Member Posts: 10
    what kind of sound is the car making. I just exprienced something similar with my jetta. Maybe I can help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Should be a warranty item on a 2006. You have to compress the strut, remove it and disassemble it. Not that easy a job.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Make sure you have checked the level of oil in the transmission.
    If it is low it might take a little extra revs to get enough pressure for the trans to be able to shift.

    There are some transmission places that will test drive and put a scanner on it for little to no cost.
  • fpjdpfpjdp Member Posts: 10
    Funny thing, I can not find where you check the tranny fluid. any thoughts
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Most VW automatic xmissions need to have the level checked with a scan-tool.

    Have you looked in your owners-manual?
  • soheylsoulsoheylsoul Member Posts: 6
    but my car is 2000 not 2006 and it's not under warranty any more. I need to know how can I replace this part.
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, I read it too fast.....2000VR6......that turned into 2006....

    I'm not even sure this is what you need, since I can't hear the sound. Since you're going to need to buy a strut compressor anyway, and a workshop manual, you might think about just taking it to a shop that sells struts--of course they'll want to sell you the whole thing....an alignment shop might take a crack at it.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I would have a qualified shop diagnose the noise before I'd start tearing the strut out. Even if it is the strut and you replace it you need to have a shop align the wheels. Also, you never, ever replace one strut; always in pairs.
  • joker55joker55 Member Posts: 49
    Hey guys, sorry, not sure if this is the right place to post this
    I own a 1999 New Jetta 2.0 Automatic, and i recently replaced the stock air box and filter with a performance cone air filter
    i notice a difference in sound when accelerating the car, but cannot really notice a difference in horsepower, or gas mileage.....yet

    i've been told by someone that this is not necessarily a good idea to have a cone in place of the stock air box, because the cone is more exposed to the heat of the engine compared to the air box and actually sucks in more hot air, thus having a NEGATIVE effect on the engine. that having the box protects the air coming into the engine more

    others have told me that the air box "chokes" the engine of air and thus results in poor gas mileage and power and that the cone is the way to go

    can anyone clarify any of this for me? should i just put the air box back in get a KnN filter? would this result in more HP and bring in somewhat cooler air compared to the cone just being out in the open?

    both these people i've talked to seem to have pretty good points to back their arguments, but not sure which one i should agree with, i just wanted to see if any of you guys out there could help out a fellow VW driver :-)

    any help and thoughts are greatly appreciated

    thanks in advance
  • carriuolocarriuolo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 VR6 jetta wagon. When my husband was driving it yesterday the car started acting like it was going stall, was running very rough, the check engine light was flashing and there was a rotten egg smell. I have been reading about the coil pack issue. Not sure if the VR6 is covered in the recall. Does this sound like the problem? Would the cost be covered by VW? If not, about how much will it cost to have it repaired? Should I have it towed to the dealer tomorrow or is it ok to drive. (about 10 miles away) Thanks for any help.
    -Kay
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is NOT recommended to alter the stock air-filter system. As long as you keep the snowscreen clean , the stock system has been proven in MILLIONS of miles to be the best for your VW.

    Some negative effects of your "cone";
    *)Suck in warm underhood air. (The stock system sucks in COLD air from front of grille)
    *) If it is the "oiled guaze" type, the oil from it will DESTROY your Mass AirFlow meter.

    It has actually been PROVEN with testing that the german-made filters are the best for your VW. The others simply do not contain the same amount of filtering material and they allow more crud to pass into your engine. There are websites you can review if you are interested in the details of these tests.

    Also, you may actually get LESS horsepower with that "cone" because the warm underhood air will "fake out" the MAF thus forcing the computer to inject the wrong amount of fuel.

    I am willing to bet that most of the folks you are listening to have been reading advertizments that try to SELL those cone filters. Unless you have highly modified your engine, the stock intake system is the best. It is a JOKE to think that the German engineers designed the airbox to choke the engine. Do not forget that the VERY SAME airbix is just fine with the VR6 engine and turbocharged engines that consume MASSIVE amounts of air.

    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU INSTALL ONE OF THOSE OILED GUAZE FILTERS (aka K&N)-- THE OIL FROM IT WILL DESTROY YOUR MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR!! -- (you have been warned)

    If you want HORSEPOWER on the 2.0 engine - install one of the supercharger kits. (Then a "cone" may be needed)

    If you want MPG - change your driving habits. (Or get the TDI engine which is over 50MPG)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A cold air intake system is different than a ram-air "short pipe" that sits in the engine compartmnt....and yes, it's true, that warm air inside the engine compartment is less dense than cold air sucked from the grille or fenderwell.

    A short pipe inside the engine might give you just a touch better throttle response but really this is a minimal positive effect, especially on small displacement engines.

    I'd say either go back to the original stock system or buy a high quality cold-air system---and even with the latter, your HP "gain" is going to be very minimal, and at very high RPM.

    Unless you couple the custom air intakes with other modifications to fuel system, engine internals and exhaust, it's pretty much a waste of money for the paltry gains in power IMO.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    To add to what bpeebles and the host have said. If the good advice doesn't please you, (on mine anyway, A-4) you can remove the snorkle and leave the bottom of the air box open. The snorkle is really for cold weather prophalatic purposes. So IF you do not want or need and/or willing to self insure.... You can also band a nylon stocking over that opening.

    Truly it will work, but I would not recommend it. But to follow the already proffered advice. It is truly that good from the oem.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Just a minor update, only because I just did this less than 15 min ago. I just changed the (oem type) air filter with 50,000 miles, with the oem shop and owners manual recommendation of 40,000 miles. Even at 50,000 miles, I changed it WAY TOO EARLY. With the snorkel screen cleaned every 5,000 miles and the air box NOT OPENED for 50,000 miles (next time 60k) there was little of the dirt and debris one would expect with 50,000 miles. The (CLEAN SIDE) top portion of the air box and top portion of the air filter was in fact, CLEAN. I wiped the clean side of the parts with a WHITE terry cloth dish towel wrung of hot soapy water and there was literally no visible dirt.

    The (dirty) filtered side was as one would expect, dirty. :)

    It is hard to ask for more trouble free maintenance!?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU INSTALL ONE OF THOSE OILED GUAZE FILTERS (aka K&N)-- THE OIL FROM IT WILL DESTROY YOUR MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR!! -- (you have been warned)

    Partly true - a K&N filter can be used successfully without destroying the MAF sensor - the key is making sure that the filter isn't over-oiled - a common mistake made by those unfortunate few whose MAF sensors met their demise.

    I don't use it personally. After months of researching performance filters for my car, I decided to keep the existing factory airbox and purchase an ITG panel filter for my chipped 1997 Jetta 2.0L. It's a high-flow filter with a dust retention rate of 99%. The ITG Panel filter (made in England) never needs washing or oiling (unlike the K&N) - the bottom half of the filter is pre-oiled from the factory (The oil that is used is somewhat thicker than the K&N oil). They recommend wiping the filter with a lint free cloth to remove the surface dirt, and then using a vacuum cleaner to remove the deeper particles at every engine service interval.

    So far I've been using this filter for 15,000 miles, and there hasn't been any residue on my MAF (or on the top 1/2 of the filter), and the engine's pickup and response has improved greatly, without the excessive intake sound from the cone intakes.

    That being said, I wouldn't try this on my 2003 1.8T. That car will use nothing but stock air filters. During discussions with my longtime VW mechanic, he mentioned that the Mk3 MAF sensors are less susceptable to contamination due to the quick heating time of the magnesium element (to 1000 degrees F). The MAF elements on the early MKIV cars, for some reason, didn't heat up as quickly, and as a result, failed because it wasn't hot enough to burn off any residue. The MAF was eventually redesigned for the later MKIV cars in order to heat up quicker for contaminant removal.

    Stay tuned...
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    The codes from the CEL will give you a start as to what might be the trouble.

    If you can get to a auto parts store they might be able to read the codes for you.

    Our AutoZone does it for free and then can print out what each codes represents.

    Had this done for my daughters 1998 Jetta.

    Hopes this helps.

    Once you have codes and what they are for then post again.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    The 1st thing that you need to do is have the codes read. There are a lot of various sensors and parts in these cars that are capable of making the car run crappy. The rotten egg smell is putting too much unburned fuel through your catalytic converter (not a good thing to do as eventually it will overheat and get damaged). When the coil pack started going bad on my daughter's car, the problem only appeared on rainy or very humid days (if your car runs ok on dry days you can spray a mist of water from a spray bottle onto the coil pack to try to prove that it is bad). I would think that you can drive it to the dealer. You really do need to see what codes are setting the check engine light before you rush to judgement on the cause of your problem though.
  • joker55joker55 Member Posts: 49
    hey bpebbles i recently just placed my stock airbox system back in my car, i took a look at my snow screen (thanks for the vid by the way)and the screen is completed ripped! is there any way to replace this screen and is it expensive???

    thanks again
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Not bpeebles here, but the screen sub assembly is held in, as you probably can see by two black philips screws. Upon removal of the screws, the piece sort of notches/unnotches.. slides (at an angle) into the main snorkle assembly. So while I would think your local junk yard or specialized VW independent shop might have one lying around; abeit, cheaper, take the pieces to the dealer and ask their pricing. While not absolutely necessary, it DOES tend to keep the bigger chunks (of debris) out of the bottom (dirty side) of the stock air box.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If your snowscreen is physically damaged, you may consider just remove the rest of the snowscreen and leave it out. (put the end which contained the snowscreen back on the pipe)

    If you want to replace the snowscreen... I would personally start at a salvage yard. All of the A4 VWs (except New Beetle) should have the same snowscreen.
  • carriuolocarriuolo Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I took it to the dealer, had it towed (lucky for me I have AAA, so it cost about $10). The dealer determined that it was the ignition coil. SO we replaced that and $700 later I get my car back, drive it around for about 24 hours and the check engine light comes back on. I brought it back to the dealer and the code it is now coming back with is in regard to the catalytic converter (p0420). He cleared it hoping that it just needed to burn through some of the fuel . I drove it around for a little while and the next day the light is back on. He did locate a technical bulletin from VW in regard to updating programming and that the catalytic converter monitoring is too sensitive. So, I will try this $90 attempt to fix it and hope that it is not the catalytic converter which would cost me a whole bunch of $$$$. Any other advice?
    THanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The coil-packs on the VR6 engine were "recalled" due to a high failure rate on them. I beleive your 2001 was part of that campaign.

    Also, your MAF sensor was part of another VW recall.Here is a copy of it If your MAF is not sensing the airflow properly, then it MAY be affecting the effecincy of yout catalyst.

    You did not say how many miles are on your VW... have you read your FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE that came with your car? All emmissions equipment is waranteed by law for 10 years / 100.000 miles. (for your 2001)

    (The coilpacks and the catalyst are considerd emmissions equipment which are covered by federal law.)
  • ctw5ctw5 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 97 coil pack. a quick inexpensive fix that has worked for 2 years now...we took the coil pack out dried it with a hairdryer (you'll see the hair line cracks that let the moisture in) and then we covered it in metallic apoxy (be sure it with stands high temps) let it set for 24 hrs & reinstall. Cleared the code and no problems since. 2 years later it looks like the apoxy is cracking so we'll do the same thing all over. Not a bad deal for the cost of a tube of apoxy.
  • carriuolocarriuolo Member Posts: 4
    My car has 87,000 miles on it. My dad told me that within the past few years the federal government lowered the warantee for emissions to 80,000 miles. I was told when I called VW that ignition coils were not part of the emissions system and that my VIN number was not part of the recall even though I have the same engine??? Do you have access to a copy of the coil pack recall? I will look at the federal emissions warranty that I received when I purchased the car. THanks for the info.
  • ctw5ctw5 Member Posts: 2
    my 97 is on 245,000 a few issues but stil going strong. i've just learned to ignore the check engine b/c sometimes it just isn't going to make a difference.
  • carriuolocarriuolo Member Posts: 4
    I ignored it for quite some time and now I hope I haven't done any major damage. I'm just not that confident to stick my hands into my cars engine and tinker around. But thanks anyway! :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    GOOD JOB!! I have recommended several times in these forums that a $500 coilPack may be repairable. I have been working with electronics for over 30 years and know that most electronic problems are REPAIRABLE.

    My only suggestion would be for you to use high-temp SILICONE sealer (Available in tubes at autostores) instead of metallic epoxy.

    I suggest this for 2 reasons;
    1) Silicone is FLEXABLE and will not crack.
    2) Anything metallic on a coilPack may be a source of arcing.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If you have a 1999 through early 2005 VW with the 2.0L engine, repairing the coil may be the quickest (and most cost-effective) option. I've had discussions with several mechanics concerning these coil packs, and each mechanic told me that a new coilpack of that type is extremely difficult to get (if that is even possible) because the original manufacturer of the coils didn't make enough - and production of that coil may have been discontinued...
  • jaimerobertojaimeroberto Member Posts: 3
    On my way to work this morning the temperature gauge shot up to 250 degrees, when it normally reads 150. After slowing down 40 mph the temperature dropped. Speeding up to over 50 mph the temperature climbed again. The temperature climbed at stoplights too.

    The repair shop says that the water pump needs to be replaced. He also said that small pieces of plastic could have broken off the pump and gotten into the radiator, so I should replace the radiator too.

    My question is whether there is a real risk if I don't replace the radiator or is the mechanic trying to pull a fast one?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The possibility exists... but at this point, you do not even know the failure-mode of the waterpump. Most of the time, the impeller just gets loose on the shaft and it ceases to move the water around the system effectivly.

    I have never heard of the impeller actually breaking apart causing plastic parts to plug up the radaitor. Besides....what do they do about all the engine passageways that might be plugged.

    In other words, I would recommend replacing the waterpump with one of the quality METAL impellers. Also, since they have to remove the timing belt to do this, REPLACE the timing belt and assoiated pulleys / tensionors.

    How many miles are on your 2000 Jetta?
    Which engine do you have?
    Has the timingbelt ever been replaced? (If yes, then they must have NOT done the job properly)

    Personally, I am not convenced that your problem is really the waterpump.
  • jaimerobertojaimeroberto Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the feedback. To answer your questions:

    It has 125K miles.
    It's a 2L gas engine.
    The timing belt has not been replaced.

    If you don't think the problem is the waterpump, do you think it is with the timing belt, or do you think the thermostat is bad?
  • jaimerobertojaimeroberto Member Posts: 3
    Actually, the timing belt has been replaced, but the pullies and tensioners have not been.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The pulleys and tensionsers are usually an intergral part and parcel of the timing belt change. Indeed it raises the question whether other critical hardware parts were changed also. As you know there are a host of bolts that are one use/one torque only and if they are unloosened they should NOT be re used.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sounds like somone was trying to "save a buck" by not doing the timingbelt job properly. It is usually recommended to replace the waterpump along with all the other moving parts when the timingbelt is replaced. This is because the other parts WILL NOT last long enough till the next timingbelt change interval.

    The cost of changing the timing belt is in the LABOR... it is comparativly cheap to replace the parts while it is torn apart. (Kits are available that contain ALL the replacable parts do do the job)

    Now, this false sense of "saving a buck" has come back to byte you in the backside because it it sounding as if all that labor needs to be done again.
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