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Thanks
You might need a new ignition switch. But before going that route, perform the following troubleshooting steps:
Check the battery and look for the small circular sight-eye indicator. If it is any color other than green, the battery needs to be replaced.
If the battery checks good, the next step is to check the battery terminals for excessive corrosion (usually a white or gray powder). If corrosion is present, the terminals need to be cleaned.
If the terminals are clean, check the condition of the battery cables for excessive corrosion, fraying, breaks, or any signs of damage.
If all of the above checks good, then the likely culprit is the ignition switch.
HTH...
I just checked the VW-recommended 40K mile service items ( http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/maintenance/en/us/ ) and there is nothing special about the 40K service. (no wheel alignment or other expensive items) It is essentually an oil and filter change, sparkplugs and inspection.
You should NEVER just tell a dealership to "perform the xxxx service" you are essentually asking them to take your money.
You should ask them to ITEMIZE what they will be doing for this 40K service and compare that against what your owners-manual says. I would bet that they are proposing to do a LOT more than what is called for by Volkswagen.
BTW: I also pulled out my "Jetta" file to check and I was charged about $300.... and I have a DIESEL! (my oil and fuel filter is more expensive than yours is.. but I dont have sparkplugs)
Oh wait...they also list lubing door hinges, maybe that adds a couple hundred to the cost .
HELP ME!!!!! Please!
recently i cant even break 250 miles before hitting the reserve. GOD NO!!!!
i've recently changed my spark plugs i put in"Bosch Platinum +2" i am running a K&N Filter in the Stock Air Box, its fairly new, only a couple of months. I previously put in a bottle of STP Octane Booster, but did nothing (i was told the STP would help clean the fuel lines)
My oil is 10w-30, would that have something to do with it? (running too thick an oil???)
My tires are the correct PSI, i check them every time i fill up.
thats all i can think of, am i missing anything that could be causing me to get such crap mileage??? i don't drive like a maniac , i am easy on my accelerations and i don't carry extra weight in the car
WTF mates???
any help is greatly appreciated
thank you
Also make certain your snowscreen is clean.
Also you are running an oil which is too thick for that engine. (VW specifies 5w30 for the 2.0 engine)
Also you may want to assume that your MAF is now contaminated... which would account for such poor MPG.
BTW... I get between 50 and 56 MPG on my Jetta TDI. (up to 830 miles per tank)
my snowscreen ceases to exist, i checked awhile ago and found that it was ripped, so i just cut it out
i am due for an oil change very soon, so i will change it 5w30 then, i will see how that works out for me and if no change i will assume the worst and have my MAF inspected/checked.
thanks again for your help bpeebles, you have been a great help to me in the past as well.
p.s I also have a rattle/vibration noise i find i hear it most when i am around 2500-3000 rpm traveling at about 15-20 mph, it doesn't happen all the time, its just really annoying when it does :mad: . if i had to say where it was coming from i would have to say around the front portion of the car, probley just ahead of the cat
thanks again bpeebles, i owe you a beer
If you shop around for a MAF, you can often find a reasonably priced one. You can either replace the entire housing...or just the plug-in MAF element. (requires specaial tool to fit the screws)
I am lucky that with several VWs in the family, I have swapped MAFs between vehicles to isolate a bad one. (I also have VagCom 8-)
As for that rattle, it sure sounds as if one of the heatshields on the exhaust may be buzzing. Somtimes, a small stone gets up in the heatshield and vibrates at specific RPMs.
In the past, I have fixed heatshield vibrations by just putting a large screw-type radiator-hoseclamp around the whole thing and snug it gently. (dont squash it down)
Later she got stranded about a mile from home. Again, radio turned off and it would not respond to throttle. I got to the car and it cranked, but would only run for a few seconds before the rpm guage would not move, and the engine would not respond to throttle. After the third crank, it would just click with ignition and the guages would go nuts. I jumped the battery (out of desperation and/or ignorance!) and got it going enough to get home.
Could this be as simple as a battery? And if so, are there any special requirements to changed this thing. Much to many wires coming from the battery which makes me cautions to just disconnect/reconnect like any other battery.
Much thanks to any assistance.
BEWARE... Disconecting the battery may make the radio think it is being stolen and it responds by going into SAFE mode. Make certain you have the code to reprogram the radio incase it goes into SAFE mode. (The code was given to the original owner and is often written in the owners manual)
Any others hate the jetta???
Thanks!
If it is a VE (like ours) you may not be able to change it back yourself because those do not have the "multi-function computer interface" (or whatever they called it). For VE might have to have the dealer do it for you.
The remote is locking the car, right?
If the only things that mattered to a
car buyer were performance, comfort,
and safety, Volkswagen would be at the
top of the heap. Its Volkswagen and Audi
models do well in handling, braking, and
standard safety features. But few VWs
have decent reliability.
Conversly, if all that matters to you is reliability, then I guess Toyota is your best bet.
I don't know about CR's use of the term "decent" there. I think it overstates the differences. I would have put it this way: most VWs have had below average reliability.
We bought the new model Jetta in 2005. It had several very minor items that were taken care of at the same time that we had it in for the one recall that it has had. After that we had a couple more significant issues taken care of under warranty. This was during the first year.
Since then, for the past 1.5 years, we have had no issues. We only have about 20,000 miles on it, though.
Consumable items on the Toyota and Honda do WEAR (get consumed ) much faster than on the VW. For example I have received checks for so called faster wearing rotors and brake pads from Toyota. Some folks have reported normal change rates @18-20k miles. Mine where at 40-60k. On the VW Jetta for example, at 99,000 miles app half of the material in the brake pads are left.
To date, I have had two VW TSB's: 1. brake light switch replacement (never malfunctioned but changed anyway) 2. rear door lock parts replaced, from plastic to steel parts (again, never malfunctioned but changed anyway)
The goals for the VW Jetta is a min of 5 to a max of 10 timing belt/water pump changes @ 100,000 miles per timing belt/water pump change.
The goal for the Civic is a min of 4 timing belt/water pump changes @ 105,000 miles per timing belt/water pump change.
"Models that score a (much worse than average) are not necessarily unreliable, but they have a higher problem rate than than the average model. Similarly, models that score a (much better than average) are not necessarily problem-free, but they had relatively few problems compared with other models.
Because problem rates in some trouble spots are very low, we do not assign a (much worse than average) or (worse than average) unless the model's problem rate exceeds 3 percent. If a problem rate is below 2 percent, it will be assigned a (better than average). If a problem rate is below 1 percent, it will be assigned a (much better than average)."
So, that implies Consumer Report considers a model with a 3% problem rate or better as "decent". Seems to me that a model that is only average is still a good risk. We're not talking about the reliability of 1960's British or Italian sport cars here.
The rates, whatever they are or purport to measure, are really statistical CHANCES of getting the so called -(old maid- the card game.). To me it is important what each dealer/oem warranty/logistic supply system will do to rectify the problem at so called no to reasonable costs.
So as it applies to TDI's and VW's (since we are on a specific VW thread) the dealers and oem/warranty/logistics system has notoriously taken the position/s its the customers fault/problem. So from a customer service point of view, they need to shape this portion up ENORMOUSLY. So if you do happen to have a good VW dealer, count yourself lucky!
So for those who do not wish to understand a vehicle, or do not have access to so called "guru's" I would say; stay away from VW's. For those who can see the problems, opportunities, can and want to use independent shops, can hook up with guru types, the VW is truly a hoot in almost every sense!
There is NO doubt in my mind that if you get one of the majority of the so called "good ones", that one will be very satified. So in my case, there is no doubt in my mind that 500,0000 to 1,000,000 miles (baring a crash) is do able. This of course is NOT a characteristic of a poorly made car!
"So for those who do not wish to understand a vehicle, or do not have access to so called "guru's" I would say stay away from VW's. For those who can see the problems, opportunities,can and want to use independent shops, can hook up with guru types, it is truly a hoot in almost every sense!"
There is a risk in buying any car. My wife has had two VWs a 1986 Golf made in Germany, and a 1997 Jetta made in Mexico. Reliability was/is never a question. I won't be purchasing another VW anytime soon because I don't have the time to devote to a car anymore like I used to, and I haven't found an import mechanic yet to help fix/diagnose the major things. Both VW dealership service departments I have dealt with were beyond reproach and VWOA only came through and helped me one time.
I would use oil filters either oem ( and usually oem'd by) or Mahle, Mann. They are manufactured to VERY stringent specifications, among them, being able to endure a (normal) 30,000 mile OCI!
So for example, while I use Mobil One Truck & SUV 5w40 aka Delvac One 5w40 (2003 TDI)for app 95,000 miles/100,000 miles, it does NOT meet the VW 501.00 (for TDI of that YEAR)!!?? HOWEVER, it EXCEEDS that specification with the CF4 specification! So depending on year/s and engine models, I would not necessarily recommend either. Indeed, given the specific specifications, I would not recommend Mobil or Delvac at all!!!
So on the come side of your 06 VW 2.0 engine meeting the VW 507.00 specification, some good oils are the ELF, (certain Mobil One EP)Motul and of course certain Castrol's (available usually at your VW dealer.) VW oem BRAND is also usually available, also at your dealer.
2002 Jetta-VR6-TipTronic-"Hecho en Mexico"
Car will not start unless jumped. Not completely dead (like an alternator problem) but just the signs of a dead battery (clicking). Once jumped, is fine, until it sits overnight.
Had the battery replaced twice within the past 2 months (DieHard-International).
Alternator checked fine (had it replaced about 6 months ago w/a refurbished one).
Took to dealership three times and they had it for a total of about two weeks. The first time, they found a major draw from the radio. They disconnected the radio but the same issue. Took it back twice since then. Checked newest battery, fine. Checked alternator, fine. The last time they stated that there was a half amp draw but could not isolate where it was coming from. They also stated it sat for two days (w/ doors unlocked & windows down) then cranked fine on the third. Took it home, cranked it the next morning and no go. They asked me to not jump it and have it towed to them so they could better isolate the draw. Not too confident they can/will find it.
Any suggestions?
Yes VWs have been ASSEMBLED in Mexico for many years.... but the components which you suggest are troublesome are NOT built in Mexico. (Engine, xmission...etc)
Dont take my word for it... READ the window-stickers. By Federal law, they must list the "country of origin" for all components.
(Copy of windowSticker is found under carpeting in trunk)
The REAL problem with VWs is that there are not many mechanics which know how to troubleshoot and work on them. Many mechanics take a small problem end up making matters worse.
This is not being "picky"... this is the nature of a turbocharged engine.
The Synthetic oil is the only kind that can stand up to the rigors of hot turbocharger bearings. Premium fuel is required because of the high combustion pressures induced by the turbocharger.... lest you may get holes in the pistons due to pre-ignition.
May I suggest you actually READ your owners manual several times cover-to-cover. You may discover a lot of things you did not know about your VW.
The problem you describe is not difficult to isolate... but it does require some knowledge of electron-flow. (aka electricity)
BTW: Are you aware that VW has had 2 recalls for brake-light swithces because they would get stuck "on" and the brake-lights would drain the battery while vehcile is parked? (I would like to think that your dealership has already ruled this out as your specific problem)
Hmmmmm. :confuse:
My 2003 TDI is rated at 90HP... but I really love the 800+ miles per tank of fuel. (about 55MPG)
I just changed oil/filter/fuelfilter/airfilter this evening. It took me about 1/2 hour to perform this 80K mile service.
When my TDI ever needs replaced (at over 200K miles) I am looking forward to the new diesel engine technologies which will be available then.
I think there is some truth to that. I don't think VWs have this poor reliability reputation in Europe, where they are much more common.
Some folks tend to get mixed up between the terms QUALITY and RELIABILITY. These are not the same metric.
Having owned VWs and Asian vehicles over the years and doing my own maintenance on all of them. I can say without hesitation that VWs are higher QUALITY throughout. Historically, the materials, design and maintainability tend to be outstanding on most German vehicles. This may not be what many people consider the most "RELIABLE".
Aisan vehicles generally are designed to be pretty much ignored. This is a good thing because common maintaince tasks can be challanging. (Changing the oilfilter on my Honda required a contortionist wearing a burn-proof protective suit)
The makers of Asian vehicles are MASTERS at hiding the truth about their reliability issues. (Honda with their headgasket and transmission problems -- Toyota with their total-engine-failure issues) They do this with an EXCEPTIONAL dealer network that instanly fixes all problems without question... making for happy customers who felt they were treated right.
VWs -on the other hand- seems to have not figured out that trick. They still tell people that they should have changed their oil...instead of just replacing the boneheads engine.
Perception goes a long way... I find it amusing that some people suggest VW QUALITY is a problem when in fact, it may be the LEAST of their problems. (Fixing the PERCEPTION of poor quality is not as easy as just having good quality)
As RUKING suggests... many components on VWs are designed to last a LONG time. This is due to superiour design and quality material.
None of my 7 VWs ever EVER had an engine problem.... my Honda needed 2 headgaskets within 9 years. (Hondas are KNOWN to have this issue.)
I would prefer to replace an occasional sensor on my VW than to have the engine lose all its antifreeze on the highway like a Honda.... To me, engine failure like this is a more significant problem.
Sensor = $14
Head gasket replacment = >$500
A real nexus is the VW body is made of galvanized steel. The rust through warranty is at 12 years while the "Asian" (many if not most are made in NO America) have app 3 years.
I know a guy who had a VW Golf ... all the horizontal surfaces had a slight "rippling" under the paint. It could only be seen if the light hit the surface just right.
When I asked him about this, he said his car was in a parking lot which was pumeled by hailstones. He went on to say that most of the Asian makes which were parked in the same lot were considered TOTALED by the insurance companies.... while his VW only needed some paint. (As I recall, he said a Volvo was undamaged)
Again... most folks do not realize VW has a 12-year/Unlimited milage corrosion warantee. No Aisan make even comes close to this. Here in Vermont, it is VERY important that your car does not rust into oblivian before it is paid for.
Still more reflections on the QUALITY of the materials which VW uses.
The Unions have grown so large, they have taken on a life of their own and are sucking the very life out of the huge corperations which sustain them. Experts are predicting that unless somthing changes... the Unions may end end up killing off at least one of the 'big 3' automakers. (I assume you know that Damler-Benz unloaded Dodge/Chrysler like a hot-potato because of this)
In related news - VW is purputed to be considering a plant in North America. They have already said in no uncertain terms that they will NOT be using any Union labor. (Like what almost swallowed Toyota when they 1st came to NA.)
The engineering process can extend to the maintenance and repair also.
Here are 2.5 examples:
1. VW recommended/specified G12 antifreeze/coolant (unless there are internally/externally induced problems) is a LIFETIME coolant vs the various type recommend for many other vehicles.
2. VW (to be fair, among others) started out with 10,000 mile OCI recommendations. The latest standard (VW 507.00) is the so called "extended" "long" life, and we are now talking of up to 30,000 mile OCI's.
.5. are the topside oil evacuation capability, another is the so called topside CARTRIDGE oil filter replacement. While I have never done, this you can literally do a road side rest stop, oil and filter change with the MINIMUM of tools in app 5/10 min.
This for me is EASY to contrast with almost any other vehicle I have or have had:
1. recommended 30,000 mile coolant change
2. 3,000 to 5,000 OCI recommendation (filter also)
.5. Almost all vehicles need/ed to be jacked up for oil changes. Almost all oil filters have to be accessed from under the engine bay.
I had the MIL warning light come on this morning on my 2002 Jetta 1.8 Turbo. This warning light was solid. We came up with the code P0300. Our manual that came with the diagnostic checker is in French. Do you know what this particular code means?
Again, thank you for all the great info!
But indeed if your specific owners' manual and more importantly specific engine specifications calls for the 507.00, that is the code or standard for up to 30,000 mile OCI's (long life, etc, etc.) The PD's as a rule are @ 10,000 miles OCI's.
I've a VW Jetta 2000, about 2 weeks ago i found the warning light on the dashboard for the front brake pads switched on, i had my pads and the rotors changed but the light is still on, another thing is that in the same time sometimes the heat warning light also flashes while i'm sure that the temprature is ok!!, i believe that i have to replace a sensor or something, but is both problems are from the same cause or do i need 2 sensors? i really need help.
Thanks alot.
As for your temparture thing... the "engine temparature sensor" on the 2000 model year is KNOWN to fail. The "improved" replacemeht is a green-colored one. On the 2.0 engine, it is VERY easy to replace without even losing any anrifreeze.
Cost of replacement (green) sensor including O-ring.... about $14. ( http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29_109&products_id=351 )
I replaced "engine temparature sensor" on my daughters 2.0 engine at night with her holding a flashlight. (The only 'tricky' part is disconecting the connector.)
thanks
I am not sure if your 1999 has the same engine which uses the green sensor. The shape on the electrical connector is different so there is no way to mix up the sensors. (If you read the link I provided above, it describes the shape of the connector. round -vs- rectangular)