Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1) My turn signal sound won't stop making the clicking noise even when the turn signal is off
2) My car won't start correctly, I have to hold the key in the start position for about 45 seconds to get it to start.
3) When the car does start it shakes really badly, and sometimes just shuts off
4) Doesn't idle properly
5) Today I was slowing down for a light, and it felt like my car shifted down into first and then wouldn't shift out to speed up when the light changed.
6) Also my check engine light, won't go off
So I am taking it to the mechanic tomorrow morning, but if anyone else on here has had these problems please let me know. (I am just worried as to how much the repairs are going to cost) The car is an automatic with 92,000 miles on it!!
Mileage: 40,000 approx
Engine Type: 4 Cylinder ?
Hi There,
My neighbor moved in about 3-4 months ago from Greenville, SC to SW Florida during the rainy season. After a month, her car began to smell like ammonia inside. I have sat in her car and smelled it and it is strong.
She is blaming my cats. She says that they are spraying the tires and under carriage of her car because she transports her dog in the car.
I am not so sure because:
1) There is another dog owner in our p-lot and they have never approached me about this issue.
2) I struggled with a cat pee smell in my own vehicle (1998 Dodge Dakota) for 5 years before I broke down and spent $1,500.00 to get the dash pulled, the carpet replaced, and the A/C problem fixed (The work was by Toyota Pre-Owned in Ft Myers,FL but it only lasted 2 years and the carpet crystals are back - another story).
3) I own a portable black light that came with the product Urine Gone. I have repeatedly checked the tires and undercarriage of her car and do not see anything.
Can you let me know if this is a problem that other VW Jetta wagon owners have had?
The owner refuses to get the mechanical aspect of this issue checked due to "cost" but she is demanding that I keep my indoor/outdoor cats inside and pay for her vehicle to be cleaned.
I have been piecing my life back together here after being kicked out of my home by hurricane Charley in 2004...so when this first came up, I was super busy. We both agreed to try cat repellent. I bought it for her ($15.00) and then she said she didn't want to try it. So, I have a friend who offered to power wash her vehicle underneath with Ammonia followed by Murphys Oil soap, and she declined that offer too.
I have pointed out that there are many cats in the neighborhood. I have asked her basic questions like, has she ever seen my cat spray her car? No. She says she has (4) witnesses, but she won't go so far as to say that they actually saw my cat pee on her car. The first time she brought it up, she said one of them told her that she had seen my cat walking by the tires...another "witness" saw my cat by her gate. It's all a bit thin.
My cats are learning to live inside night and day for the next 2 months. I could just imagine her cleaning her vehicle's carpets the week before the 2 months is up and telling me that everything is allright as long as my cats stay indoors.
So what. What makes you think it is okay for your pets to roam the neighborhood? People with cats, dogs, or whatever should keep their pets on their own property.
That said, it seems everyone, including the cats, would be better served in this situation if they became indoor cats. I know it's a difficult adjustment, but it would certainly solve the problem and keep the cats safer at the same time.
Personally, I don't think grayson has any reason to foot the bill for anything unless someone can offer absolute proof his cats are responsible.
If it helps, normally, my cats are out for 1 hour in the morning, then they come back in and sleep all day. Then they go out for 2-3 hours after dinner and come back in and sleep all night. I don't let them out in the morning when it is dark, because I don't want them to attack the bunnies. I've never saved or buried a bird during the evening time, and Tiger does kill rats - which we get a lot. I donate to the Center for Rehabilitation of Wildlife on Sanibel Island whenever I can.
It come directly off of the expansion tank and Plugs into a caseing,I am not speaking of the typical upper and lower water hose, this is a pressurized hose that runs from the expansion tank and travels under the car and follows the frame work to about the middle of the car itself on the under side, I need to know what type of hose this is and what its purpose is so I can pruchase it when needed.
I have done work on all my Hondas and have never seen anything quite like this as there are a total of 4 hoses that go into the casing it is a much much smaller hose and extremely long.
Please any Help would be great.
Jason Burroughs
I have a 2002 Jetta, automatic transmission with ~67,000 miles on it. Just this Saturday I noticed the gears were slipping (making a jerking sound) when thecar shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I took the car to the shop that my family has gone to for some years. They told me it could be either that the transmission fluid needed to be flushed or that there was a problem with the transmission. They were about to close so the owner asked me to bring the car Monday morning to flush the transmission fluid. Well on Sunday the jerking/kick back noise got a lot worse, and
the check engine light went on too. This morning the repairman told me the error he got was P1778 indicating the transmission is no good anymore.
So it looks like I need a new transmission.
My warranty information said the Powertrain warranty is good for 5 yrs/60,000 miles. Has anyone else had similar experiences/problems? Any luck in getting VW to cover the cost of changing the transmission. Or does anyone know of a good place to get the transmission replaced that isn't too expensive in the Washington DC area?. I hear transmissions can cost ~$4000-5000
By the way I looked up error code P1778 and supposedly it means "Solenoid EV7 Electrical Malfunction" - what does this mean? Does it actually mean the transmission is bad?
Thanks
I'd see if you can find someone who knows a little more about transmissions and/or VWs.
With a front-wheel-drive, there is not much twards the rear of the car except fuellines and brakelines. (Neither of which would plug into xpansion tank.)
Perhaps you can tell us WHERE this hose you are following plugs into underneath the car?
There is an electrical connector which plugs into the side of the xpansion tank. The early 2000s had a known problem with this connector leaking antifreeze at the tank. (but the wire did not go under the car.)
I have my Bently VW service manual open in front of me. The ONLY small hose that I see is the one that feeds coolant from the "watercooled EGR" to the top of the xpansion tank. Is this the hose you are thinking of? This hose constantly "pees" coolant into the tank while the engine is running.
Just took the Jetta in for 80K checkup (now in Austin, TX) and found the radio in SAFE mode again. No worries! I had the code and instructions. Guess what. Cannot get it out of safe mode.
I drove around for more than an hour with the radio on and still couldn't get it out of safe mode. Today, I left the radio on and the keys in the ignition for three and half hours. Still can't get it out of safe mode.
Question:
1. Should I disconnect battery cable and reconnect and try radio again? or,
2. Should I pull the radio out of the dash and put it back in to try to "fool it."
Or... any other recommendations. I love this car and take good care of it.
First, I cleaned the mass air flow sensor in an attempt to make sure that the air flow measurement is correct to adjust fuel / air mixture ratio. That went well, and easy.
Second, I would like to check the engine coolant temperature sensor to ensure that the fuel / air mixture is set correctly. I know of no way to do that without the Vag Com software that reads the diagnostic codes. Is there another way to check that the sensor is operating properly?
The third item is to use a fuel injector cleaner. I am trying Sea Foam. The directions indicate that it can be added to the tank, which I did just now. The can also be added through the main vacuum line. Is it important to add this through the vacuum line rather than just through the fuel tank?
Anyone had any luck with these or other attempts at improved fuel economy?
Then, after reconnecting battery, try the SAFE mode sequence again.
Each of my 2 daughters have a 2001 VW (Golf and a New Beetle) I just PMd (preventive-Maintainced) them both in preperation for the winter. Before I started, the wheels were almost impossible to spin by hand. When I was done with PMing the brakes, the wheels would spin pretty freely by hand.
Both of my daughters have noted at least 30 more miles by 1/2 tank of fuel. (They ALWAYS fill the tank so they can guage relative MPG pretty well)
=========
As for your comment about checking the coolant temperature sensor -- if it is not a GREEN one, replace it. (only $14) If is a green one, then it is likely OK.
The VAG software cannot really "check" that the sensor is accurate. It can only tell you what it 'thinks' the sensor is telling it. What you can do is check the antifreeze temparature with an accurate digital thermometor and compare that reading to what the VAG software is telling you.
Although it shows a modified sensor... it may be enough to show you where the 3 sensors are located. Each sensor is held in with a plastic clip. (seen above each sensor)
Depending on which 2.8L you have here is another photo of alternate location. (Still, held in with plastic clip and O-ring seal)
On the positive side, this car is a blast to drive. It handles extremely well and the turbo engine is sweet :shades: ;cruise at over 80mph and get 28-30 MPG. I have never waxed this car, yet water stands on it as though I just finished a wax job. The silver color is just as shiny as it was on day 1. Also, the dealer even loaned me a new jetta last time I got the CV boot fixed.
I also have an '07 jetta wolfsburg for my wife..
thanks
I am interested in connecting with someone who is very familiar with the Teves ABS unit used on the 1990-92 VW products. Specifically, the accumulator mounted on the abs pump. I believe this unit is the same as the one used in 1988-1989 Merkur Scorpios.
If you have information regarding this or even parts, can you please contact me at Saul@MerkurRS.com.
thanks!
Take a large Ziploc bag and place the MAF sensor in it. (JUST THE MAF.... not the entire housing) Pour enough Isopropyl alcohol into the bag to completely cover the MAF sensor. Gently shake the bag to allow the alcohol to pass through the sensor. Take the MAF sensor out and let the excess alcohol drip off. Set the MAF sensor down on a paper towel to drip/air dry. You may want to use the compressed air spray to blow dry parts such as the connector port. Allow the MAF sensor to dry completely before reinstalling it in the car. This will take between 1-5 hours. Then reinstall.
Here is a link with photos
Here is a product for cleaning MAF
Some people have reported that using "Brake Clean" has worked for them.
The important part is to allow MAF sensor to completely dry before use. (Or it may burn up due to the built-in cleaning cycle)
Also, here is how to diagnose a bad MAF
My 2.0L '00 Jetta sometimes won't start. It turns over but won't catch. Giving it gas doesn't help but does rev the engine way up once the engine does eventually start. However, this problem doesn't happen every time I start the thing. It only seems to happen once or twice a week. Sometimes I'll drive it and try it again a couple hours later and struggle to get it started. Then, in another couple hours, will try again and the car will start right away. I just had the oil changed and went over 100,000 miles but haven't had any major problems to speak of in the past with this vehicle (keeping my fingers crossed.)
Also, if anyone knows a good VW mechanic in/near Hollywood in Los Angeles, please let me know. If (when) I need to take my car in, I'd like to have a friendly, fair-priced place in mind.
Thanks!
The only way I can describe it is like boiled cabbage..almost a garbage-y smell.A bit like a stove w/ a gas leak.
It happens usually when I first start the car in the morning and pull out of the garage.Also If I have been at a redlight and start up.,it seems just to happen in lower gears and reverse.
I just bought the car used .It had one owner and 21,000 miles on it(and service records to prove it!) .Also a new clutch was installed before I bought it.Other than that it runs great .it's practically new.
Might the smell be be gear oil ?
Any ideas?
Thanx.
If it keeps up, you may want to have somone to look at it.
BTW: Why do you think it is from the xmission?
Any other suggestions are apreciated.Other than that, the car is in immaculate shape.I've had to get it saftey inspected,and emission tested as well as a rustproofing.All the garage owners that have driven it cannot believe how well the gears change and how the car and the engine looks and handles.It was obviously cared for.
Thanks for your help.
I am telling you all of this because your comments seem to suggest that gear oil gets smelly with age. This is simply not true.
HOWEVER: Most manual transmissions should NEVER have GL5 oil in them because the additives tend to corrode the bronze bushings used as synchronizers. Lets hope your manual xmission does NOT have GL5 oil in it. (Only use VW-approved gear-oil in the xmission!)
Also NEVER-EVER apply rustproofing to a Volkswagen. Unlike most other automobiles, VWs come from the factory with galvonized steel bodies and factory-rustproofing. That is why VWs have 12Year/unlimited-milage rust warantee from the factory!! (applying rustproofing voids this factory warantee because it may actually PROMOTE corrosion)
If you truly had rustproofing applied, that may be the source of your odor. (may be some on the exhaust pipes.)
I fear if I take it back in without the actual condition being present, it will be the same "no problem" diagnisis.
Has anyone seen this at all that can guide me on a course of action?? Can't have my 16 yr old girl wondering when its going to stop and I certainly don't want her stranded!! Much thanks!
It really is'nt an oily smell.More like something organic that is rotting..
The symptom of the lights going dim definitely point to an alternator/battery issue.