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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tony61984tony61984 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 jetta the car shut off at the light after i was driving it for about a half hour didnt overheat and their is gas in the tank it turns over fine it but it seems that it isnt firing or no gas is getting to the plugs or something any help of what the problem may be
    :sick:
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Buy an ignition coil from VW. An after market one may not last for more than about 5 months.
    Try spraying starting fluid after the MAF sensor and into the intake. If it runs for a short time then suspect fuel pump and/or fuel delivery issues. If it does not run even after that then the ignition coil.
  • cburke5cburke5 Member Posts: 4
    that happened to my 2004 jetta and i had to get a new ignition coil, cam sensor and O2 sensor
  • stacyj1stacyj1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Jetta VR6. Not sure if its my actual cigarette lighter that is broken or something else. I have plugged my GPS charger in. it charges for maaaybe 5 minutes, then stops working. very temperamental, sometimes works for a few minutes, sometime doesn't work at all. tried my cell phone charger..same thing. sometimes may work for a few minutes...sometimes doesn't work at all..same thing wil ipod charger, etc, etc. all work perfectly elsewhere.

    thought about just getting it replaced..(not really interested in spending the money though)

    someone said they got some sort of "sleeve' that goes over the plug or somethign that helps make these charger plugs fit better.???

    ..anyone heard of this or had this problem? id really appreciate it..i want to use my garmin!!! haha
  • askfl7askfl7 Member Posts: 2
    Can I reset the Service Now indicator on the computer on my 2006 Jetta TDI? I have done all of the service.
  • hpmuffinhpmuffin Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    My gf's jetta wont start... I replaced the battery. recently replaced timing belt, spark plugs, wires, by mechanic. Acts like there is no fuel, but disconected fuel intake into maifold and fuel was pumping when cranken over. What should I check next? Is there a good on-line trouble shooting site? I have limited knowlege and $ is tight.

    thx
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You might check the coil pack, especially if the problem occurs with damp weather. My son had starting a problem with his 1996, he found a crack in plastic case of the coil pack when he took it off. His problem was intermittent and mostly occurred in wet or damp weather. I believe problem with coil packs are common on these cars.

    I think places like autozone may do free testing of several starting related components, but it's hard to get it there for them to test if it won't start at all.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 Jetter 1.8T. The check engine light keeps coming on. The code is P0171 running lean. One dealer had the car for three months replaced all kinds of parts. Carried to another VW dealer and they have replaced cat coverter, pulled the head and checked it (it was fine), have replaced several sensors and usually before we get home from the dealership the light is back on and with the same code. This time we drove the car for 166 miles before the light came back on, but it is back on again. I am getting really tired of it. It is getting very expensive. The car runs perfect, just the check engine light. Can you help me? :mad: :cry:
  • microjmicroj Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1998 Jetta GLS 5spd. manual Tran.
    The car has only 25,000 miles but is now 10 years old.
    I've been told timing belt is both mileage and Time sensitive.
    Do you think I should change the timing belt and water pump? this is about $900.00 thru dealer.
    Is there an affordable alternative(have mechanic look at it?) or is the expense in the labour getting to the belt?
    Thank-you
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You can get that done a lot cheaper. IIRC, a VW specialist in our area quoted something like $200-300 for timing belt on a 4 cyl 1997 GL, not sure what water pump would add. Did not need the work done, I had just asked out of curiosity.

    As to whether you should get it done, I don't know. I have never heard of having a time interval for timing belt, but it kind of makes sense that a rubber belt might deteriorate with time as well as mileage. I do think that by the time they do the labor to look at it, you might as well just replace it.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    As an Autozone manager in Cincinnati I will tell you we can check codes for most cars 1996 and newer (OBDII). We can usually do battery, starter and charging system on the car in the lot. We can test starters, batteries and alternators while off the car in the store We can test some parts on the Wells tester, (Ignition Control Modules and the like.).

    The ignition coils for these cars need to be replaced by a VW part. After market parts do not hold up to the specifications required of the Jetta.

    First replace the coil about every five years.

    This replacement will also help with shifting issues which sometimes happens when the large voltage is thrown off of a damaged coil.

    If you can test your own coil with a multi-meter then most Autozone have the specs for this part in their Wells manual.

    All these tests are done free, Gratis. Of course outside tests are controled by the weather.

    Pray this helps.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    While a mechanic is there you should change whatever can be change since most of the costs are in the labor to get in there. Things that are in there could be water pump, seals, oil pump, belt tensioner and the like.

    I do not know about time interval for changing but rubber belts do get dry rot b/c of the pollution in the air .
  • vwjetta07vwjetta07 Member Posts: 1
    got a 2007 jetta, I need to change the oil and filter. Where is the oil filter and how can that be access? Is the filter accessible from the top or under the engine. How about using oil suction pump to take the oil out, any comments on that?
  • piersonapiersona Member Posts: 1
    This probably isn't helpful, but I know a few Jetta owners who gave up on the check engine light. I've paid plenty of $ myself on "problems" that did not seem to present a problem other than a check engine light, but cost a few hundred bucks getting "fixed." I also have a 2002. When something seems wrong, you can go and maybe then they can figure it out. Good luck.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    what grade of fuel do you run in your Jetta?
  • mk4wemk4we Member Posts: 2
    strictly shell v-power also strictly valvoline syn power 5w 40 i have an 01 wolfie 140000 miles and she treats me very well still wouldn't trade it for just about anything
  • lions6lions6 Member Posts: 2
    My daughter has a 97 Peice of crap jetta. Lately the alarm has been setting itself off and keeping the car from starting. I am not really sure how but sometimes I can get it to stop going off and then it will start. Today she brought it over and we cant get it to start at all. I have tried disconnecting the battery and that didnt help. Is there any way to bypass the alarm so the car will always start? I cant wait till she can afford another type of car. This one has been a nightmare in the 6 months we have owned it. I was reading old posts and several people said the alarm thing may be part of the door locking mechanisn on the drivers door. Is there a sensor or something behind the lock that may need to be replaced or possibly bypassed. I really dont care if she can use the alarm I just want her to stop calling me to rescue her cause it wont start. Any help would be appreciated.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    What octane rating fuel do you use--high test, medium grade or regular? Thanks,
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I have a 1997 Jetta 2.0 with 250,000 miles. Here's my rule of thumb when it comes to timing belts:

    1) Timing belts on these cars should not go beyond 90,000 miles between changes.
    2) Change the waterpump every other timing belt change (every 180,000 miles).

    Follow these guidelines and your engine will last a long time...
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Have an Autozone nearby? Then have them check the condition of the battery. A marginal battery may have voltage issues that may reset the alarm. Also check battery terminal for corrosion and bad connections.
  • angela1978angela1978 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, Everyone. My husband replaced my coolant yesterday and ever since then my fan has been turning on AFTER i shut off the car. And stays running for about 15 minutes. Even if i just drive a minute around the block. It has NEVER turned on before when shuting the car off.. ANY SUGGESTIONS on whats going on with my dang fan??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here are some possibilities

    1) Wrong type of antifreeze used. (intermixing different antifreeze can produce a jell which may plug up internal, engine passagways)

    2) Air bubble in the system which needs to be "burped" out.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Another possibility is a faulty cooling fan after run switch (normally attached to the cylinder head) that senses the engine temperature after you shut the engine off, and ensures that the engine cools down properly. This is separate from the regular cooling fan switch that is located on the bottom of the radiator.
  • brighterfuturebrighterfuture Member Posts: 2
    I read the other posts that are similiar to mine but I still can't start my car up. I bought this car a couple of weeks ago, it has 187,500 miles on it. It idled a little rough but other than that it ran great. So I made some "biodiesel" and drove it around, still ran great.

    Went to change out the fuel filter and I didn't have the right one so I just drained the old one and filled it back up with diesel. Tried to start the engine, won't start. Pumped the air out of the lines with a Mityvac, won't start. Pumped out the lines again and again and again. Still won't start.

    So now the battery is starting to run low... took it to Autozone to be tested and it passed but it has a low charge, left it there to charge up. Looked at the wires on the battery and there's some corrosion on the main connection to the fuse panel thing on top of the battery. So I'm going to clean those up, pick up the battery and try to start it again. I doubt it will work so any suggestions on what else I should do? Thanks in advance.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    I also have a used Jetta 1.8T (02) and had to have the cat converter replaced just last week because of the check engine ligh and I did not have to have the service records. After the replaced cat converter, my check engine light went out but came back on after 166.6 miles. The code is P0171, running lean. It seems like every time I get one thing fixed another has to be fixed. The car runs perfect, you would never know anything was wrong if it were not for the check eng. light. I have had 02 sensors, MAF sensor, all kinds of vacuum lines replaced and the light still comes back on. I need help...running out of money and every time I take it to a VW dealer, it cost a lot...
  • microjmicroj Member Posts: 10
    You could try replacing the gas cap.I know it sounds crazy but it worked on my Jetta. I was having the same problem..It's a 10 dollar gamble that could save you hundreds ...
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks, after spending 100s what could $10 more hurt. Did you buy an after market gas cap or from VW?
  • microjmicroj Member Posts: 10
    After mkt. I believe. My mechanic did it for me,and seeing as it was so inexpensive I would have to guess it was not a VW part.They tend to be pretty costly.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the info, we are going to try it this weekend and will let you know if it works for us.
  • pmorg1pmorg1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 VW Jetta, 1.8L Turbo. Check engine light comes on occasionally with error code 2181. Anyone know what this code is ??

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    coolant temperature sensor malfunction. That would be a good one to check.
  • searlestsearlest Member Posts: 1
    Hello just purchased a 2000 jetta (for my 17 yr old daughter) with a 2.8 L VR-6 engine odometer reads 150,000 miles car is non running seller advised VW dealer ship advised timing belt was broke.

    I just ordered a Chilton’s manual from Amazon.

    Could someone pleas advise on best place to purchase parts? What should be the average price for parts? I have found a timing belt kit with water pump on E bay for $220.00

    It also would appear that it is commonplace to replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Please advise!

    Would also like input about chip up grade for HP and mileage.

    This is the first VW car I have owned so if someone would like to give any other advice I would be grateful!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you should let a professional do this job. It isn't easy, lots of labor, disassembly (front grille and bumper come off if I recall rightly) and if I remember correctly this is an interference engine, so if the belt broke there is a good chance you have bent all the valves in the engine. AT THE LEAST, have a professional evaluate the damage before you proceed. If you need new heads, water pump, belt, tensioners, head gaskets, etc., that might run $3,500. If the pistons hit the valves hard enough, you will need a new engine which suggests perhaps not repairing the car.

    Maybe you'll be lucky and all that's broken is a tensioner and not the belt. Somebody needs to check this engine out before you starting orderingn parts or unbolting things.
  • bham757bham757 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had a new heater core installed into my 95' Jetta III VR6. It took 6 days for the mechanics to install it, and cost me $650 dollars, but that is not the problem. After driving my car no more than 30 miles my car began to smoke and leak coolant, so I took my car back to have it looked at. After checking out the problem the mechanic told me that I have a broken heater hose and it would cost me $250 to fix it. I then asked if the new heater core had anything to do with the heater hose breaking and he said that normally the pressure from a new heater core will rupture old heater hoses. Before I go back to the mechanic, is there anyone who can tell me if replacing the heater hose is involved in the process of replacing a heater core. I have been trying to search the web for answers but had no luck finding anything, and I don't have a Haynes Book for my car. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It depends which heater hose broke and where. The heater hoses ARE connected to the heater core, but that's under the dash or at the firewall. If the hose broke at the water pump or some other place, it would be difficult to hold the mechanic responsible. I suppose he would have wiggled the hoses around but that shouldn't break them.

    Tell you what---he'd better be able to show you a broken hose. If the hoses aren't split, one might have to suspect a loose hose clamp, which could be the mechanic's fault. Old heater hose looks OLD---cracks, splits, etc.

    But replacing heater hoses on a car this old is not a bad idea and is probably good preventive maintenance.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    we changed the gas cap and so far 200.9 miles that light is still off. knock on wood. I hope it stays off. thanks for the info, we will keep you posted. :)
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    we changed the gas cap and so far 200.9 miles that light is still off. knock on wood. I hope it stays off. thanks for the info, we will keep you posted.

    well i spoke too soon. 210.8 miles and the check engine light came back on with the same code. running lean. have you got any other ideas? we appreciate the info about the gas cap, at least it was worth a try.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A bad gascap would NEVER affect the "running lean" condition... it would affect the EVAPERATIVE EMMISSIONS diagnostics.

    Did you consider the other high-flyers that could affect a "running lean" condition?

    *)MassAirFlow sensor (MAF)
    *)Airleak in intake system
    *)O2 sensor(s)
  • vwgwl4nowvwgwl4now Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problems six times had car towed in because was leased! Found out it was the brake safety switch..VW re-manufactored the switch 12/07. I had a case opened and received one for my car. No more problems with that. Just Engine light on and decreased power. I had no other problems with car until VW did work on two months later engine light on and decreased power and slight miss first stop in mornings? Good Luck.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    we have been to two vw dealerships and have had a lot of work done and both have said there is nothing wrong with the 02 sensors or the MAF sensor. we have suggested that to both dealerships and they looked at us like we were crazy and not to question them. needles to say, we are doing the work now and we will check for ourselves. will keep you posted. thanks for you info, we need all the help we can get since we have spend 100s already...thanks,
  • stretch2008stretch2008 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta and need to put a new cluster in but AllData is unclear on procedure for R&R - can you point me in direction of where you found out what's involved? Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I truly hope part of the "100s" you have spend was on a VagCom.

    A VagCom is perhaps the ONLY way to isolate your problem. And you would now own a VagCom so you can troubleshoot future problems.

    For me, my VagCom paid for itself several times over within a year. (Family has 3 VWs). In several cases, I was able to use VagCom to print out the failure and show to the VW dealership who in-turn covered the replacement parts under warantee.

    Peraps those "crazy looks" you are getting from the dealerships would be wiped off their face once you SHOW them you know what the problem is.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    ..."Peraps those "crazy looks" you are getting from the dealerships would be wiped off their face once you SHOW them you know what the problem is. "...

    Now that would make going to a dealer FUN!
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    Isn't that the truth. That would be glorius. The stories we have been told everytime we go to the dealership is just that!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    To be quite honest, after the warranty ends, I wouldn't go anywhere NEAR a dealership outside of recalls and TSBs. I would look for a private VW mechanic, or better yet, a tuner who specializes in VWs. The service department at most dealerships are designed to get as many cars in, service them quickly, and get them out the door. Thourough diagnostics seem to be an afterthought - especially if they encounter a "squeaky wheel" type customer. The service department tends to tell that type of customer anything to get them out of the door (never to return to the premises).

    Between my trusty VAG-COM and one of three VW mechanics that I go to (in my area), my trips to the dealership have become few and far between (save for recalls and TSBs, of course....:) )
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for that info. We bought the car used and bought an extended warranty for the car so my husband wouldn't have to work on it, but due to all the stories and all the money we have spent we have canceled the warranty and my husband is now working on my Jetta. Needless to say, he has been a mechanic for 30 years we were just trying to have something he didn't have to work on. He replaced the timing belt, water pump and did a few other things this weekend and I feel more comfortable with his work than the vw dealer. At least I know it is fixed and he will tell me the truth. The last vw dealer we carried the car to took the two small grills off the front bumper and hit the rearend and then denied doing it. There were bolts missing and several other things. No one wants to do anything about it either believe you me...it's wrong-I called the corporate office of vw and they just took my statement...go figure.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Not a problem... :shades:

    VWs tend to last a long time when properly maintained - so I think you'll be much better off having your husband maintain the vehicle (as opposed to the dealership where customers are treated like cattle)...

    Good luck....
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    What you say regarding VW dealers in general may be be largely true, but each dealer should be judged individually. I have gone soley to the VW dealer for service and repairs since the late 1980's because the two premier VW/Audi technicians in town closed their shop and went to work for the dealer. I trust them more than the remaining independent shops. True, the guys who do the oil changes usually give me an extra liter that I have to suck out and use later to top off, but that's become a running joke between me and the service manager.
  • autowork7456autowork7456 Member Posts: 15
    I understand that there may be some good vw dealers out there, but we haven't found one yet. They stole parts off my car, hit my car and left bolts out and the list could go on and on. If you have a tech that is putting too much oil in your car at the oil change and you are having to suck it out-something is wrong with that picture because over filling your your car with oil will blow seals. My Jetta is finally running good since my husband has been working on it. We plan on purchasing the VagCom soon which should also help.
  • eggenseggens Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm in the middle of changing the clutch on my son's 1997 Jetta. The kit I bought (that was for multiple years) came with a throwout bearing, but I didn't see anything that looked like one during disassembly. I saw something posted on another site that mentioned certain Jetta transmissions not having a throwout bearing.

    I just want to be sure before I reasemmble, as this project has been a huge pita. Anyone know anything that might help?
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