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Comments
:sick:
Try spraying starting fluid after the MAF sensor and into the intake. If it runs for a short time then suspect fuel pump and/or fuel delivery issues. If it does not run even after that then the ignition coil.
thought about just getting it replaced..(not really interested in spending the money though)
someone said they got some sort of "sleeve' that goes over the plug or somethign that helps make these charger plugs fit better.???
..anyone heard of this or had this problem? id really appreciate it..i want to use my garmin!!! haha
My gf's jetta wont start... I replaced the battery. recently replaced timing belt, spark plugs, wires, by mechanic. Acts like there is no fuel, but disconected fuel intake into maifold and fuel was pumping when cranken over. What should I check next? Is there a good on-line trouble shooting site? I have limited knowlege and $ is tight.
thx
I think places like autozone may do free testing of several starting related components, but it's hard to get it there for them to test if it won't start at all.
The car has only 25,000 miles but is now 10 years old.
I've been told timing belt is both mileage and Time sensitive.
Do you think I should change the timing belt and water pump? this is about $900.00 thru dealer.
Is there an affordable alternative(have mechanic look at it?) or is the expense in the labour getting to the belt?
Thank-you
As to whether you should get it done, I don't know. I have never heard of having a time interval for timing belt, but it kind of makes sense that a rubber belt might deteriorate with time as well as mileage. I do think that by the time they do the labor to look at it, you might as well just replace it.
The ignition coils for these cars need to be replaced by a VW part. After market parts do not hold up to the specifications required of the Jetta.
First replace the coil about every five years.
This replacement will also help with shifting issues which sometimes happens when the large voltage is thrown off of a damaged coil.
If you can test your own coil with a multi-meter then most Autozone have the specs for this part in their Wells manual.
All these tests are done free, Gratis. Of course outside tests are controled by the weather.
Pray this helps.
I do not know about time interval for changing but rubber belts do get dry rot b/c of the pollution in the air .
1) Timing belts on these cars should not go beyond 90,000 miles between changes.
2) Change the waterpump every other timing belt change (every 180,000 miles).
Follow these guidelines and your engine will last a long time...
1) Wrong type of antifreeze used. (intermixing different antifreeze can produce a jell which may plug up internal, engine passagways)
2) Air bubble in the system which needs to be "burped" out.
Went to change out the fuel filter and I didn't have the right one so I just drained the old one and filled it back up with diesel. Tried to start the engine, won't start. Pumped the air out of the lines with a Mityvac, won't start. Pumped out the lines again and again and again. Still won't start.
So now the battery is starting to run low... took it to Autozone to be tested and it passed but it has a low charge, left it there to charge up. Looked at the wires on the battery and there's some corrosion on the main connection to the fuse panel thing on top of the battery. So I'm going to clean those up, pick up the battery and try to start it again. I doubt it will work so any suggestions on what else I should do? Thanks in advance.
Thanks
I just ordered a Chilton’s manual from Amazon.
Could someone pleas advise on best place to purchase parts? What should be the average price for parts? I have found a timing belt kit with water pump on E bay for $220.00
It also would appear that it is commonplace to replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Please advise!
Would also like input about chip up grade for HP and mileage.
This is the first VW car I have owned so if someone would like to give any other advice I would be grateful!!
Maybe you'll be lucky and all that's broken is a tensioner and not the belt. Somebody needs to check this engine out before you starting orderingn parts or unbolting things.
Tell you what---he'd better be able to show you a broken hose. If the hoses aren't split, one might have to suspect a loose hose clamp, which could be the mechanic's fault. Old heater hose looks OLD---cracks, splits, etc.
But replacing heater hoses on a car this old is not a bad idea and is probably good preventive maintenance.
well i spoke too soon. 210.8 miles and the check engine light came back on with the same code. running lean. have you got any other ideas? we appreciate the info about the gas cap, at least it was worth a try.
Did you consider the other high-flyers that could affect a "running lean" condition?
*)MassAirFlow sensor (MAF)
*)Airleak in intake system
*)O2 sensor(s)
A VagCom is perhaps the ONLY way to isolate your problem. And you would now own a VagCom so you can troubleshoot future problems.
For me, my VagCom paid for itself several times over within a year. (Family has 3 VWs). In several cases, I was able to use VagCom to print out the failure and show to the VW dealership who in-turn covered the replacement parts under warantee.
Peraps those "crazy looks" you are getting from the dealerships would be wiped off their face once you SHOW them you know what the problem is.
Now that would make going to a dealer FUN!
Between my trusty VAG-COM and one of three VW mechanics that I go to (in my area), my trips to the dealership have become few and far between (save for recalls and TSBs, of course....:) )
VWs tend to last a long time when properly maintained - so I think you'll be much better off having your husband maintain the vehicle (as opposed to the dealership where customers are treated like cattle)...
Good luck....
I just want to be sure before I reasemmble, as this project has been a huge pita. Anyone know anything that might help?