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This is a great time to remind everyone that one should NEVER sit still with the clutch pedal pushed.... you are ASKING for premature throwout bearing failure. (Only push clutch pedal to shift gears!)
Also, clutches that wear out have been mis-used. I have traveled over 200K miles without any clutch wearout. (Clutch lasts useful life of vehicle.)
SECRET: Do not touch throttle pedal until clutch is fully enguaged! It is possible, I tought my daughter this trick and she can now drive a standard smoother than many automatic xmissions.
I have a 1997 Jetta as well... :shades:
Anyone have any insight?
If so:
1. Make sure clutch cable adjustment mechanism is compressed.
2. Coat clutch cable suspension point at the clutch pedal with grease.
Clutch Cable
3. Press the clutch cable through the bulkhead and suspend in front recess of the clutch pedal while making sure that the load plate is installed on the clutch cable
4. Route the clutch cable and end piece through the bracket on the transmission and through the release shaft lever while taking care not to damage the plastic sleeve on the clutch cable.
Clutch Cable
5. Hook attachment parts onto release shaft lever
6. Suspend the clutch cable in wire holder.
7. Install the over-center spring. See: Clutch Pedal Assembly
8. Depress the clutch cable several times.
9. Check the operation of the adjustment mechanism.
1. i'm driving a 01 Jetta VR6, and I get about 19-21mpg driving 90% highway, avg speed 80mph. I'm not complaining, but like anybody else, wouldn't it be nice to get 30mpg? One thing I've noticed is that I get about 24-26mpg when the weather is warmer over 70 F (I live in MN, by the way we expect snow this weekend). Any clues why the change in mpg with the weather, should I change anything to get better mpg?
2. I do a lot of the maintenance myself, recently changed plugs/wires (from the dealer $, after reading too many reviews I decided to stay with stock); but use fram for filters (oil&air). for oil I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 winter & 10-30 summer. Are those bad, is there a better brand that people use? :confuse:
Just want to hear some opinions. :shades:
Thanks
If you are still confused, there are several helpful webpages to visit on the ross-tech website that can help guide you. Their What to buy webpage is very helpful.
Also, you can just send an eMail to them. They have always been responsive to my inqueries.
I assume that you know that anyone can just download the software as often as you wish. (I visit the VagCom site several times a year and download the most recent version.)
The information you all provided helped me document that a mechanical inspection was needed. When she refused to do it, she also had to abandon her legal threats. I never spoke to her again (although she confronted me in the parking lot whenever she could).
Apparently, she had other issues that caused her to have to move away - far away.
Thank you so much. I was really stressed out from her legal threats and I couldn't have survived it without you all!
Thanks
TS
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/
When I accelerate my Jetta at low gears, acceleration is very jerky like the car only feels me pushing the pedal intermittently. It does this all the time now, and twice, while driving, it drops into "limp-mode", and I have no acceleration whatsoever. If the car is turned off and restarted, the car goes back to jerky. The EPC light and the spinning tire come on when it goes to limp mode. The jerky acceleration can be felt mostly in 1st to 3rd gears, it is harder to feel in higher gears. Does anyone know what may be happening?
I appreciate the info,
jp
An ignition coil that is arcing will sometimes cause transmission like troubles without it actually being the transmission.
Do not waste your money on an after-market coil. Spend the extra to buy an OEM from VW. Mostly the after-market one will not stand up to the extreme specs of VW engineering.
And for my first Jetta and having owned it for 7yrs and then selling it easily for $5 less than what we bought it for, I have absolutely no complaints. That, and the fact that I'm onto my second black Jetta and haven't had anything wrong with this one either - just bought a GLS that's fully loaded and is having an engine swap soon.
First Jetta made it from Vancouver, BC down to Seaside Oregon on one full tank of gas so for fuel mileage, definitely beat out any other car I've had or he's had. Can't beat 600kms on one tank of highway driving. And my newer one (which is a '95 still goes about 570kms before you push it too far. I've never gone until the car has died). It's a 2.0ltr right now and I can say that with only a different exhaust system on it (all stainless steel from front to back) I can still beat a brand new automatic Camry off the line. And the pick up in fourth is far superior to most cars I get to try out.
I know that Corrados looked great in their time and it was one of VW's sporty cars but, anyone that does play around with this line of cars or knows these cars really well and is going to give you the best output for your buck, will never recommend a VR6. VR6's were replaced with the 1.8Turbo because the VR6's were too finicky and were crapping out too soon. They overheat and die out too soon. Even with modifications, they are quickly going the way of the G60-which was a horrible engine. Overheat and die really quick. (That's why you won't see those in any of VW's cars anymore.
1.8T is the way to go if you want more power and easily modified by chipping them. VW's are going more to the Audi side of the family so we're now reaping the benefits of the more expensive end of the family for the lower end prices. Another reason why VW doesn't want you to call the VW's A4's - too much like the Audi's. So they've reverted back to the original way of determining the years - MarkIV, MarkV, etc.
As for your last comment about the Jetta being grossly under tired and having too much bodyroll, what do you think you're paying for when you buy an Audi? Look at the specs between the two and you'll be surprised - just like what I was saying...other than the same rims and lower profile tires - the chassis are becoming very similar these days. Have you not noticed the similarities yet? Befriend someone at VW or an aftermarket shop and they'll show you. You're going off the premise of, "it's gotta be better because it costs more."
Check out the high end Jetta and then the Audi...the specs aren't that much different. (Sorry for the disillusion).
Is this a scam or a legit test study? Anybody have experience with this kind of study?
Every other time I stop at a stop light, my engine will start to hum with a deep loud sound. I can feel the vibration too as if it were a belt vibrating heavily. Also, when this happens, my A/C loses its coolness and if I either let off of my brake and start to accelerate or turn off my A/C the humming will go away.
Is anyone familiar with this? Do I need to tighten the belt somehow? I opened the hood and looked, but did not see any belts that go to the compressor. I couldn't even see the compressor. This is my first European car and I'm used to American cars where I open the hood and see a serpentine belt and can tighten it right up.
Thanks for your help.
VWs do not use a "clutch" on the AC compressor like some other vehicles. That is why you do not feel the AC compressor kicking in and out. Instead, the AC compressor is "variable" and changes the amount of freon it pushes based on cooling demand and engine speed.
Perhaps you would want to check that the AC system is properly charged with freon (or whatever it is charged with).
Today my Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on.
My car is due for an oil change either before Feb. 2008 or before I hit 33967 miles.
Currently I have only 333391
As I was going to take my car in this weekend anyway..does anyone have any idea what may be going on here? The booklet says the emissions and don't drive fast or any steep hills, but I really as you can see don't drive it as much. When I got the car in 2006 it had 22000 miles approx.
Any insight would be helpful. especially on the how much this would cost approx. I need my car!!
Thank you!
It has 85K miles, manual, with 2.0L engine. The guy says it uses a quart of oil every 1500 miles. The VW dealer says a quart of oil every 1000 miles is normal. It may be normal for a bad design, but it is certainly not normal for a decent engine. My 2001 Mercedes E430 with 93K miles that holds 8.5 quarts does not use ANY oil between its 10K oil change interval, nor does my 93 Ford Ranger with 153K miles.
My question is this...will this oil consumption get worse with time? or it will remain the same?
Also I thought the timing belt/water pump replacement is due at 100K. My local VW dealer says pre 2002 it was at 80K. Is he trying to sell me the $700 service or is it truely needed at 80K? I know the timing belt failure is a distaster on VW/Audi engines and I will never take a chance on that.
Has anybody had timing belt failure before 100K miles?
One last question.. can I request water pump with metal propeller instead of one with original plastic one? I know there were some water pump failure where the plastic propeller broke in pieces and they ended up in the engine and the radiator.
Thanks,
Joe
I say this as a 03 VW Jetta TDI owner with 107,000 miles looking to go a min of 500,000 miles. Current oil consumption is 1/8 to 1/3 qt (4 oz to 11 oz) in the course of a 25,000 mile OCI. (yes I know the oem recommendation is 10,000 miles)
03 TDI timing belt changes are at 100k. However this presupposes the bigger bearings and improved belt. So IF the smaller bearings and (non) improved belt is/are used, then yes the lower mileage interval is prudent. This needs to be verified to say one way or the other. No, I have not had T/B failure. I have personally seen 15 or more old belts ( TB/WP jobs). While visual inspection can be deceiving, my own belt changed at 100k looked good to go for another 20,000 miles as a minimum. Also the oem water pump plastic impellor showed signs of coolant seepage. As you mentioned it is way foolish to chance this. Of the belts I have personally seen, there indeed were a few where you " knock on wood" they even made it before the change.
Yes you can request/get the W/P with metal (brass is best) rather than the "plastic". Laso makes the brass impeller one. Lastest research indicates the Laso, brass impellor is the best. The complication is the water pump is made by a few vendors, Bosch, Graf, Hepu, Laso comes to mind.
Not to add any more complication, but Laso also makes a "composite" (aka RESIN) impeller (so does Graf. :sick: ). To LQQK at the "composite" aka resin, one side by side with another make's (Bosch makes oem) "plastic" ones does not help much as both LQQK PLASTIC. Please also be aware (sans Bosch "plastic" ones) that a TDI guru that I respect makes an argument that "resin" ones such as Laso, Graf, actually flows coolant better.
Check engine light appeared so I used code reader u380 and found problem with misfire in #4 cylinder. Changed spark plugs and then tried to start engine . no response except when key is turned on, clicks are heard and flashings on control panel are seen. nothing electrical works ie. windows radio Code reader now shows "link error" when used. What could it be ?
Check engine light appeared so I used code reader u380 and found problem with misfire in #4 cylinder. Changed spark plugs and then tried to start engine . no response except when key is turned on, clicks are heard and flashings on control panel are seen. nothing electrical works ie. windows radio Code reader now shows "link error" when used. What could it be ?
http://www.motortrend.com/features/car_care/112_9510_new_car_care_products/index- .html
Most '94 and virtually all '95 models use CFC-free R-134a.
Are you saying you go 25K miles between the oil changes? Unless you are doing 100% highway driving in 70-90F ambient temp, I am not sure I want that oil hang around in the engine that long.
If I end up buying this Jetta, I will look for W/P with brass impeller.
Joe
Yes I am am saying 25k miles OCI's :shades: Again to make a long story short, a good reason why I got lucky on the 03 TDI. :shades:
It is amazing how VW calls this defect "Normal". I had an 85 Jetta, bought it new, put 180K miles on it. That Jetta never had the oil consumption problem. I wonder what went wrong some 16 years later..
Joe
Thanks,
Woody54
*)Clean the "snowScreen" (there is an online movie showing how to do this)
*)Make certain the foam pads which cause rust have been addressed. (There is a TSB about this)
ENJOY YOUR NEW CAR!!.
In any case, oil-consumption by itself is NOT a problem. Just keep oil in the engine and it will last a long long time. In fact, it can be argued that the oil "changes itself" as you drive.
Also, there are some things you could do to minimize the consumption.... but keeping a case of oil in the trunk is the cheepest.
Please keep in mind that VWs have been ASSEMBLED in Mexico since the original beetle.
HOWEVER: The sources for the components are many. Xmissions come from one country, engines from another. The Mexicans just bolt the components together. You really cannot blame the Mexicans if an engine built in Brazil consumes oil.
I was wondering if anyone got back to you regarding this question... my MIL came on last night as well, and I have no idea why?!?!?!... I have a 2003 Jetta and it has 33000 miles. There's never been anything wrong with it except for an electrical problem that was solved under warranty... but I don't know how much I"ll have to spend if I take it to the dealership ... I check the booklet and it's exactly what you say. Don't drive fast, no Steep Hills, etc.. ugh.. ...any insight?
Thanks so much for any help! :confuse:
If it is "BLINKING" - DO NOT DRIVE because there is immenent danger of bad things happening. (catalitic converter overheating...etc)
If I were you, I would take car to autoparts store who often can "pull the codes" from the onboard computer for you. (and reset the MIL at the same time)
This will NOT fix the problem.. .but knowing what code is causing the MIL will go a long way twards figuring out the next step to take.
Also, my steering wheel shakes whenever i drive around 80 mph on the highway. Is that normal?
Your steering wheel shake is probably a tire or two that is out of balance.