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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • polannypolanny Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Jetta GT that will not go into park so steering wont lock and cant remove key. Tried moving steering and pushing shift lever.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the shift interlock solenoid, located in the center console. Unless you are mechanically inclined, this might be time for a tow truck.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    You need a special tool that attaches to fuel filter tube stem, once it is pressed down inside the fuel line quick connect retainer tab, it will spread the tabs and allow the quick connect to separate from fuel filter stem. You may be able to spread the locking tabs with a small flat blade screw driver. Sears sells the tool that has mutiple tube size adapter for about $10.

    If you have never done this befoer, you could break one of the retainer locking tabs with screw driver. Be gentle and patient.

    Joe
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    After laboring over buying a Jetta, I ended up buying a 2001 5 speed with 2.0L engine.

    Where do I go for VW OEM parts like extra remote, gear shift booth, and large plastic under engine cover. There must be a VW dealer with website that sells stuff at lower than our local VW retailer.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • gehad3003gehad3003 Member Posts: 1
    I had jetta 99 (new body style) which gone into an accident. The car was hit in the front left tire. The airbags and the seatbelts were deployed. A mechanic fixed just the tire so I can drive it and it worked just fine. he changed ball joint, control arm, sway bar, and tie rod end. I drove the car for about a week. Now, the problem is when I start the car it dies right away except if I press down the gas. I can start the car and immediately press the gas and drive it. I also was able to drive the car with this situation but the rpm is low (about 500).

    by the way, the mechanic was thinking about changing the strut mount but he said it might be not necessary. And, it seems that the battery goes off once i try to start the engine because the car goes without electricity for a while after i try to start the engine for the first time.
  • kenadelekenadele Member Posts: 3
    2001 VW Jetta. Just how difficult is it to re-wire the front oxygen sensor, or should I pay the extra $100 and get the one with the plug connector?
  • freeantelopefreeantelope Member Posts: 5
    I have been searching through the threads for a while and have gotten very confused on what this issue could be. My car Bought today used from Canada is surging and bucking. I went to my mechanics house and got the following codes

    P1550 Idle Peed control auxilary inputs
    and
    P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire

    could the injector 3 be faulty and need replacing? What doers the first code mean? My mechnic works primarily on gasoline cars and he wasn't sure but thought that replacing the injector 3 would be a good start. The other question is what is the firing order so I know which injector 3 is. I think it's 1-3-4-2 from left to right when standing at the hood looking towards the windshield is that correct?

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    From your discription, I would think the idle problem may be caused by the misfiring. The "Idle Speed Controller" would have a tough time doing its job when a cylinder is misfiring.

    I beleive that ONLY cylinder#3 is monitored by the computer... so it is the ONLY one that can flag a problem. You will see that the injector for that cylinder is the ONLY one with the monitor-wire attached.

    Also, consider doing a compression-test to make certain the valves are all sealing properly. Lets hope you do not have a mechanical problem like a bent valve.

    It is also possible that your IP (Injection pump) is malfunctioning.
  • jnoe35773jnoe35773 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2004 VW Jetta, and I haven't even had it two weeks yet and the EPC/ESP and Traction Lights are all coming on. I took it to VW, and they ran all the codes on it. They first told me it looks like it needs a throttle body but before they replaced that they wanted to clean the throttle body to see if that wouldn't clear up the code, which it did. About 3 hours later all the lights came back on again, so I had to run it back down to VW. They then told me that they thought it was the pedal position, and they wanted to get another pedal from another 2004 Jetta with the same engine and see if that didn't clear up the code, so they did that. The codes still came on after they did that. Now they are thinking that it might be the engine control module (ECM), and that part alone runs from $700.00- $1100.00 plus labor. They called me the next morning and said they would like their "main tech" to look at it and see if it might be a wiring issue or something like that before they replaced anything. I'm now thinking that they don't even know what's wrong with my car. I have been reading a lot of problems with the ECP light on this website, and it doesn't look like there is a solution to this problem. If anyone has had this problem and has found a solution, please pass it on to me so that I don't have to invest a lot of money that I don't have into this darn car. I'm really upset about all of this because we haven't even had the car 2 weeks yet. Thanks so much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually it sounds like your dealer is doing a very good job of trying to solve the problem for you and isn't just throwing parts at it and wasting your money. I'd suggest you work with the dealer, keep in good communication and see what they have to say. Everything they did so far makes sense to me. Modern cars can be a devil to repair. There is, in fact, no "computer" that tells the mechanic the exact problem--only the circuit/system that is in distress.
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    my 95 jetta 2.0 started bucking and loosing power, so i decided to change the fuel filter. i double checked i put it on right, and i did, but now it wont start, my buddy said it might be a vaccumm leak so i replaced all the hoses on the top side of the engine, and now the only way it will stay idling is if we pull the throttle out...but she still idles rough, and when i went to start her yesterday, she would stay running...any suggestions? fuel pump? spark plug cable? is it possible that im not running on all 4 cylinders? im dead with out my baby what do i do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well maybe the factory tech is now what a line mechanic used to be at a dealership. We do know that there's a big talent shortage at most dealerships. If you are THAT smart, why work on cars? (good question).

    Quite frankly, if a line mechanic spent the time you do in carefully diagnosing and repairing the problem, I mean with that level of deliberateness, they'd probably fire him for being too slow. :P Some dealers can be slave drivers.

    I didn't get the impression they were charging him for all the time they were spending. Maybe I misread it.

    This is why I like independent shops. The highly competent ones will approach the diagnosis differently than a line mechanic at a dealership who is under the gun to perform. Also these shop owners are invested with a sense of ownership and reputation.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you... if a dealship tech were to take the deliberate time to actually DIAGNOSE each problem... the dealership would be selling less parts and getting fewer cars thru the shop each day.

    That is why I have migrated from fixing computers (the kind you walk inside) to developing software to earn a living. Now, I just fix cars, TVs and other electronic devices for fun. (because it does not pay the bills to do it for a living and be honest at the same time.) I just could not bring myslef to sell somone $200 of parts if they only need a component lubricated. (like a trunk latch for example)

    On the other hand, some folks would argue that they want their car fixed FAST and not be charged a lot for labor. This approach would mean a tech should just replace all suspect parts as fast as he can. (and hope he fixes the problem)

    Somtimes, you end up paying either way.... labor one way -or- parts the other way.

    Each approach has its pluses/minuses and either of them could be the less-costly.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    some folks would argue that they want their car fixed FAST and not be charged a lot for labor.

    And in particular, they probably do not want to be charged for a lot of diagnostic labor.
  • johnjm1johnjm1 Member Posts: 1
    I hope this helps someone, because when I was looking for the answer no one posted their fix! All it takes is a few minutes to create a post and cut/paste it to several forums. Let others know what worked for you! Please post solutions too, not just questions!

    I purchased a 1999 VW Jetta. Speedometer & Tachometer didn't work. Tach sat at zero... speedo "bounced" on zero. Odometer, cruise control, and all other gauges worked fine.

    I removed the instrument cluster. It's really simple, a couple of plastic covers, the light switch, and four screws. It was MUCH easier than removing the gauges from my F150!

    I opened the speedometer and found no servicable parts. Some posts will tell you there is a gear inside that is stripped. That may be the case, but I didn't want to risk breaking anything else!

    I found DNA Speedometers by searching the internet. They're in Tamp, FL. I packaged the gauges and shipped it allong with a check for $129. Turn around time was GREAT! The received it, fixed it, shipped it back. That's it. I didn't have to call or send nasty emails... nothing. They litterally turned it around in one day! Round trip took a whole week... that's UPS ground!

    When it arrived I installed it and took it for a test drive. It worked like a champ. They even replaced the blown bulb in it. DNA Speedometers even garauntees their work for six months!

    There are other places on the internet that repair speedos... I went with this one and had a GREAT experience.

    (Posted 6/26/2008)
  • buzzdogbuzzdog Member Posts: 1
    can anyone help me to get my glovebox out and my new one in??i bought the car and thehandle and lock were missing on the glovebox..i bought a new one $117.00 at dealership. i have three screws out along the bottom out side and three out inside the glovebox but i cant get it to come out..the two hinges at the bottom are holding it...anybody know what else is holding it in????any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance...
  • samsawaysamsaway Member Posts: 1
    Let me preface this discussion with the fact that I know little to nothing about cars. Which I guess would explain why, on the tight budged I have (read: no money), I was "smart" enough to purchase a VW. Which I still owe quite a bit of money on.

    ANYWAY. I have a 98 VW Jetta K2. It has about 125000 miles on it. I drove it from Wisconsin to Connecticut, but before I did so I had an oil change and had it checked out. The mechanic told me I had a coolant leak and that my transmission may have some problems, but that it'd be ok for my trip. That was about a year ago. Since then I had one mechanic look at it after it overheated and broke down (scary!), and he suggested I use a coolant stop leak system and keep some coolant in my car. So that's what I've been doing. Because I can't really afford repairs.

    However, my car has been running like crap. It has barely been accelerating, and today it overheated and started smoking and coolant spewed everywhere and was dripping out under my car onto the road. I didn't know what to do, so I called a couple people who know cars, and they suggested I put water into the coolant tank just so I could get the car home. I did this, but noticed that as I was driving home my power steering wasn't working.

    Does anyone know what any of this means, or if it's something I can have fixed by someone other than an overpriced dealership or garage? I really need to be able to get to work, and I sincerely do not have the money to spend on repairs (or a new car). I have about a half hour commute and would be interested to know if my car is fixable, or if anyone has some general idea of what the problem could be.

    Thank you in advance for any help you can offer me.
  • lennyj01lennyj01 Member Posts: 1
    I recently took my 1999 GLS VR6 Jetta in because the battery was not functioning... turns out I needed a new alternator.

    About 3 days after I got my car back, I was driving down the highway when suddently the speedometer and odometer both stopped functioning. The speedometer just fell to zero. I went back in, and was told it was not the speed sensors, it had to be a separate problem. They said that in order to determine what that was, they would have to remove the entire transmission of the car -- meaning that I would have to pay a minimum of $1000 just for that. Since I had just paid a hefty amount for a new alternator, I declined at the time to have it fixed.

    Has anyone else had this problem in a Jetta, and any idea what caused it? (without ripping out the transmission?)

    Thanks.
  • paulanthonydfwpaulanthonydfw Member Posts: 6
    :( I don't know if anyone else has this problem, I have a squeak/rattle at Hwy speeds on my 2003 Jetta GL. It sounds like its coming from the passenged door. Should I just have someone try to take a look at it. If anyone elsa has this problem please let me know. It's driving me crazy!!!

    Thanks,
    Paul
    Dallas, TX
  • kneebs1kneebs1 Member Posts: 1
    HELP! I just recently bought a 08’ Wolfsburg Jetta. This being the first time that I have ever owned a car I’m somewhat new at what high performance engines require. As I was gassing up the other day I noticed that the gas cap said PREMIUM gas. Despite mentioning to the sales men several time that I wanted to SAVE on gas prices he neglected to tell me that VW recommends 93 octane for the Wolfsburg. With PREMIUM gas being $4.50 a gallon I don’t want to go down that road, the whole reason I bought a Jetta was to save on gas.

    My question is, will it hurt the engine to use regular? Another option I thought of was using mid-grade with an octane buster. Will either of these options damage the engine over the life of the car?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, it probably means you've blown the head gasket, and with it any hope of dealing with this inexpensively. If you'd dealt with the cooling problems before, that would have been a minor expense. Fixing the engine will be a major expense.

    You're trying to keep something running that needs an investment, without making the investment. If you can't afford it, then park it. Fixing it now is going to cost nearly as much as another very used car....rebuilding the head, and the cooling system, is going to be [by my experience] at least a couple of thousand $.

    I know this sounds brutal, but the reality is that the car needs a lot of mechanical attention. If you're not a mechanic yourself, it simply cannot come cheaply.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I am fairly certain that they design the engine so that it will adjust timing, etc. if you use lower octane gas. You'll know if it doesn't as it will knock.

    However, you will get less power and lower mpg, as the engine is designed to run optimally on the higher octane. If mpg drops 5%, and I have no idea if it will, and premium costs 5% more, you will not save anything with cheaper gas, anyway.

    I guess for the future you have learned that you need to do your own research, rather than count on a car saleman to do it for you. You could have bought a Jetta with the 2.5 engine that uses regular. But then, according to EPA, the 2.5 engine uses 4% more gas than the 2.0T so the fuel cost per mile is almost the same. EPA gives an annual fuel cost estimate of $2598 for the 2.0T and $2565 for the 2.5, based on 15,000 miles.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, I'm puzzled by this query...you really can't use regular in any recent, modern, turbocharged engine of which I'm aware, and I'm a serious car nut. Unlike a normally aspirated engine, using regular when premium is called for risks more heat [from retarded timing] than the turbo, oil, and coolant will want to put up with in the long haul.

    Wrong choice of engine, and maybe wrong choice of car altogether if high mileage on regular gas is the goal.
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    hi folks,iam considering purchasing a 08 jetta 5sp and wanted to know how many miles can i expect to get out of the clutch with normal wear and tear......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It really depends on your abilities with a clutch pedal.

    I have driven well over 150,000 miles on many vehicles and never had any clutch issues. My daughter had a Honda Prelude that went over 250,000 miles on original clutch.

    The secret (as I taught my daughter to drive) is to NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE until clutch is fully enguaged. (Obviously on a hillstart your tecnique needs to be adjusted slightly.)

    On my Jetta TDI, I can ripple thru the first 3 gears without touching the throttle. (Why bother touching the throttle in the city between stoplights?)

    This tecnique takes a lot of practice but rewards the driver with a long-lasting engine/clutch and excellent MPG numbers.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    It also depends on the type of driving. Obviously cruising on the freeway is not causing any clutch (or brake) wear.

    I and my familiy have driven manual transmission cars up to as much as 150K mi, and never replaced a clutch.

    We drive normally using the throttle and, anyway, I don't know that engaging the clutch without it is the best thing for clutch wear minimization...seems to me you would have to let it out so gradually that there might be increased wear due to the extended time during which you have the clutch partially engaged.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You are correct that highway driving is ZERO wear on a clutch/brakes.

    The main "wear factor" for the clutch is HEAT. Heat is generated when the delta between engine RPM and road-speed is large.

    I know people (usually teenagers thinking they are cool) who REV the engine repeatedly as they enguage the clutch. A clutch treated in this manor may not last 50,000 miles.

    Conversely, if engine RPM is as low as possible when enguaging the clutch, the heat (wear) will also be minimized.

    Also, the ability to match engine RPM with roadspeed between shifts minimizes clutch wear.... (and makes gear-changes smooth) I would bet that most people riding with me would not be able to feel when I shift gears if they did not hear/see me going thru the motiions.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I bought a 2001 Jetta for my son with 85K miles. Yesterday he said the car did not start twice during his stop and go driving through out the day.

    When he turned the key and depressed the clutch, all dash lights were coming on but no clicking or cranking. After several attempts of turning the key on and off, the car started up normal.

    The battery, starter, and red battery cable appear new. Is there any history of Jetta having problem with clutch safety switch where if the clutch is not fully depressed it won't let the car start? If so, does the switch have an adjustement range?

    It sure feels like clutch safety switch not making it than anything else at this point.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The fastest way to find out is to hook up the Vag.com.
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    i just found out i have a blown head gasket...im willing to put 300 max into it...how hard is it to replace? any pointers, tips? will it be in my price range?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No you can't get a head gasket replaced for $300, no matter how you scrimp and save on the job.....unless you did all the labor yourself, and even then it would be close, because you'll need gaskets, fluids, timing parts, ignition parts, little bits and pieces and a radiator flush.

    One problem is that you'd best find out WHY the head gasket blew in the first place. Did the gasket cause the overheating, or did overheating cause the gasket to blow?

    I'd budget about $1,000 for this job, presuming that there is no valve or camshaft wear than needs correcting.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I had a 4X4 Honda CIVIC once that needed head-gasket replaced TWICE! (No, did not overheat) Imagine driving down the highway in -10F weather and the hot antifreeze comes out the TAILPIPE. The cars behind us were coated with antifreeze after they endured the thick fog of instant steam in the winter cold. This also destroyed the O2 sensors in the exhaust system.

    Now I dont own any Hondas.
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    i was able to find a kit with all the gaskets and rings and bolts for 95 bucks. im in the middle of doing the labor myself.. i almost have the head off as we speak...any pointers/hints/advice? thanks for the reply
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    i was able to find a kit with all the gaskets and rings and bolts for 95 bucks. im in the middle of doing the labor myself.. i almost have the head off as we speak...i dont think i cracked or warped the head, it didnt over heat, or spew any water out the back, or under the hood i think i caught it before any of that happened...any pointers/hints/advice? thanks for the reply
  • tomc11tomc11 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2002 Jetta GLS VR6. Last December the remote entry key fob stopped working. Changed the battery: no good. Tried the spare fob: no good. Both fobs have the little flashing red LED when you push the buttons, so they must be transmitting.

    Took the car to the dealer and they narrowed it down to the "convenience control module." Recommendation: replace the convenience control module for $650.

    Has anyone else had a problem like this?

    Is this module a user serviceable part (ie can I put it in the car)?

    In addition, the right front pax door control panel (window, lock and back light) works intermittently in temps <40F. Supposedly this is linked to the convenience module as well.

    BTW, VW Customer Care was worthless on this issue. But they were willing to give me a $750 rebate on a new car :P.

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A machine shop should check the head for warpage and cracks for sure.

    Also, be sure you either have the radiator cleaned or replace it.
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    once i get the head off, which is proving to ba a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], im gonna bring it in...thanks
  • djnarcolepsydjnarcolepsy Member Posts: 7
    what is the reason for the radiator flush? im gonna do it anyway, im just curious
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why would one go through all the trouble of curing overheating or cylinder head damage and not address the one component that protects the engine the most from overheating?
  • jayphatjayphat Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 jetta with approximately 120K on it. I was driving home the other day with it when my check engine light started to flash(it was already on with a too rich/too lean/ and cylinder 1 misfire light on and autozone never cleared it). It was ok at idle with a slight tick to it, but as you rev the engine, it really struggles for power. I was able to get it up to at least 35MPH and do a little "coasting" home, as I was only about a mile away, but unfortunately, I live almost 45 mins from the nearest VW dealer and no-one around me can test jack on the car for me. It shows on the check engine now as a P0301, P0302, and P0304, all misifires. Tried replacing the spark plugs, no help. Tried replacing the fuel filter, no help. My only other though process now is that it is the coils, but they are connected directly to the spark plugs, and no-one around either can either test them or carries replacements. Anyone got any suggestions as to if the coils really are the issue, because I don't want to drive almost an hour to pay a delaer for an overpriced part only to get home and find out its not the problem.
  • umhockeyfan11umhockeyfan11 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a problem with my 2003 Jetta GL. It is a manual transmission. When the front end is up on jackstands I can put the car in gear and the wheels will turn. However, I can put my hand on the wheels while they are turning and stop the wheels from turning. When on the ground the car can be pushed forward and backward while in gear and will go into all gear but the car won't move on its own. There are no abnormal noises or anything like that.

    Someone told me that it might be the slave cylinder but I don't think he knows what he's talking about. I think that it may be the either the pressure plate or the clutch but I don't know. I haven't opened it up yet but I'm just trying to figure out if this is something that I can do myself or if I should just give up and take it to a repair shop.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
    tom, i would take vw up on their offer and take the 750.00 rebate and get a new car maybe a new jetta......given the jetta's electrical problems as they age and also the fact that you would have to spend 650.00 to fix the key fob issue...the 650.00 you would have spent to fix the car plus vw's 750.00 rebate would make a nice down payment on a new jetta...it's something to consider anyway.....steve
  • tomc11tomc11 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    Here's an update.

    Talked to a friend of mine at a shop who looked up a VW TSB on this very topic ("keyless remote intermittent or inop"). It's a known problem with this model. Step 1: manually reprogram the remotes using the procedure in the owner's manual. Start with the master remote.

    Reprogrammed the remotes and they both work great. :)

    Avoided being ripped off by the dealer for $650.

    Hope this helps you out if you have a similar problem.

    Cheers,

    Tom C.
  • kddykddy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 jetta the obd2 codes are p1237 cylinder #1 fuel injection circuit open circuit and p1613 mil call-up circuit open/short to b+ if any one can help me understand a little of what that means it would be greatly appreciated
  • bbrooks762usbbrooks762us Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 1996 VW Jetta that doesn't want to start when the weather gets warm out. It turns over just fine, just doesn't fire. If it sits in the shade for a while it will usually start. Once it is running it runs great. So far I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, manifold temperature sensor, fuel pressure regulator and checked the fuel pump to make sure it is working. Does anyone have any ideas on this or have had the same problem and found a cure for it. My mechanic is stumped by it.
    Thanks,
  • younggotti167younggotti167 Member Posts: 2
    hey i also have the same problem on my 2003 jetta gl. Theres also a slight ticking sound coming from that side as well. I've brung the car into the shop and the mechanic said there was nothing wrong with axel/suspensions or wheel related. so i have no clue what the problem is but its bothering me!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A flashing CEL is bad news. If you continue to drive your car... certain damage to the expensive catalytic-converter is immenent.

    You may have thought you were saving some $$ by ignoring the CEL when it was lit... now you may have more expensive repairs on your hands.

    I am sure your initial problem was a bad MAF which was recalled by VW.

    You need to get the codes read pronto.. and get this fixed. You are not saving any money by ignoring it. (unless you like to walk to work when your car dies.)
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    Bought an '08 Jetta Wolfsburg several days ago. The salesman said to use only syntenic. OK I normally do. My question is what brands meet VW's specs???
    I think he said the service dept. uses Castrol 5w-40. Do any other oils meet VW's specs? :confuse:
    Also what brand of oil filter are people using??? A VW filter, or something else.
    Thanks
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I emailed you a list of oils meeting the 502 spec that I happen to have
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    Got it. Thank you.
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