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Comments
A variation of this has also happened to me when I've driven through puddles or in the rain - my car doesn't shift propertly and eventually feels as if it's going to stall. Any ideas as to what's going on? My CEL has also been on for some time and I was told I needed to replace the O2 sensor, is this related?
Thanks!
When you feel that the steering-wheel is locked up and the battery light comes on... this means that the engine has stopped running and is not spinning the power-steering pump and alternator. In other words, this is just a symptom of a stalled engine and may not be related to the root problem in any way.
The problem you describe after going thru a puddle is most likely your ignition system. (sparkplug wires getting wet and shorting out the spark to the cylinders for a few moments)
After the above - What we have left is still your stalling problem which is not easy to diagnose. At this point I cannot even narrow it down to Fuel, Ignition or electrical.
Can you perhaps describe the CONDITIONS under which your car stalls. (Wet, Cold, turning right, turning left, Below 1/2 tank fuel, Accellerating, Highway....etc) Basicly anything that can help us narrow in on what is happening?
I am a long way from needing to think about this, as we have a 2005. I had figured that this would be something I'd look into when the car is about 10 years old, but since the topic has come up, I thought I'd see what people think about this.
Our other newish car has a long life antifreeze (Mazda calls it FL22), but the manual says to change at 10 years.
I think you got confused about what issue I had. I just had an erratic hot engine where the temp gage climbed, so I replaced the thermostat.
I do like VW's for the way they drive and handle. Their reliability is nothing to brag about but the way they handle no Honda or Toyota can touch. I had a brand new 1985 Jetta 5 speed, put 180K miles on it. It was a great car. The gearing ratio makes the RPM run high. You feel like you need a 6th gear. I had a 92 325i that has similar gearing.
Taking about oil filter changes... I have had two Accords. I rather jack up the car and get to the filter than drip over power steering hoses and engine block with the filter sitting in the front. Filter changes are messier in 2.0L VW than in Hondas. I don't know about other VW engines. My 85 Jetta did not have power steering or spalsh guards to mess with, but the filter in it was in the same place. Actually it could be the same filter.
I do have issues with items that are lifetime like coolants or automatic transmissions that they claim it never requires service.....really?
Will report back on my son's Jetta if any Prestone coolant related issue comes up. If I learn a lesson, I would like you all to know.
Joe
The 2.0L manual has 93K miles. It had on and off starting problem. No cranking at all. when you turn the key all light are dim and when you turn the key to crank position, all lights just fade and you hear a click click click inside and NOT atthe starter. When you are outside the car, and push the remote the light are very dim.
My mechanic gone through all kind of connection cleaning and tightening for $270. When the car acted up again, he came to my house and checked everything again and said it is for sure the starter.
I replaced the starter myself back on Oct 5th. since then the car has been prefect with every crank. two days ago, it started acting up again. He came over again, and checked the battery, check the ignition wire going to the starter, and the ground to starter. Everything checked OK. but when we plugged the starter wire back to to the starter, all lights were strong, and it started right up. He said I will be wasting money by replacing a year old battery or the ignition switch.
He is to check on line with other VW mechanics to see what they can tell him.
I was wondering if I were to get a new audio system with CD player and Aux jack, would the I still be able to use the steering wheel audio controls? I searched the web but mostly found info about changing steering wheels. :mad: :sick:
Any Info appriciated. THX!!
Btw, they were 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 4AT. The 02 did not have them.
-Cj
I was cleaning my neighbors Beetle's interior. I needed to vaccum the car so I pluged it up and turned the key to the on position. Little did I know, the DRLs(Daytime Running Lights) were on the entire time! Ok anywho, the radio dimmed out, the lights inside faded away, and the power windows reminded me of my 95 accord's (SUPER SLOW). Then I tried to start the car and it was just loud clicking almost sounding like the Wheel of (mis)fortune and the car wouldn't start.
I loooked that up online and saw that that is VW's way of having a dead/dying battery. Next we just jump started the car and all was fine. We just let it run for about 10mins before turning it off.
If this is constantly happening to you, I think that your altenator may need replacing because it will not hold a charge.
hope this helps!
BTW, the next day her beetle's key snapped in half... It was a make shift key, not the switchblade or old style key. Anyone know how to get the switchblade key for a reasonable price that doesn't include paying $350 to the dealership for ONE key? This would be good for her because she really needs a key and me because all the Jetta i've been shopping around for only have one switchblade key .
-Cj
NOW: The big question is "Is the battery bad or is it not charging?"
You can easilly test for either of these conditions. Most autoparts stores (AutoZone...etc) will charge and test your battery for free.
WallyMart sells a tester which plugs into your ciggerette-lighter socket for about $12. It can monitor your charging system while you drive. It is a great addition to any toolbox.
I tried starting her up a couple of months ago and didnt seem like it had enough juice tried to get a friend to jump start it and or charge battery but now its not doing anything.
I was just wondering how detrimental it is not to use the right coolant and how hard changing alternators is on jetta.
The big sign of acting up, is the remote key, when I unlock/lock the car, flashers/horn are very weak.
Last night when it did not start in the driveway, I took off /plugged back in the ignition switch to starter wire, and that did not help. Then I started pushing and releasing the clutch pedal 6-7 times, while trying to crank, then all of a sudden it started right up.
I will buy that gadget from Walmart that someone suggested and will monitor the charging system. I will also stop at Autozone and have them check both the battery and the alternator.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Joe
Good Luck!!
-Cj
Has anyone else seen this issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? I drive a 2004 Jetta 2.0L and I believe it is a GLS.
I'd like to know if anyone else had issues with these belts on cars that had between 60-105K. If so, please let me know. I've contacted a lawyer and am planning a class action lawsuit against VW - because this should not happen. When the belt breaks, it trashes the engine. Timing belts should never break, much less at 100K miles or earlier.
Please let me know so we can get this fixed and wake the folks at VW up. I for one will never purchase a VW and am going to tell everyone I know to stay away from these junk cars!!!!!
Chris Ingle
wtknght1@aol.com
Audi engines and some Hondas are the same way. It is always wise to know this when buying a car.
Joe
Even Audi specs the 1.8T TB replacment interval at 60K or 80K miles. VW may have made a grave mistake specing it at 105K miles.
To more specifically answer your question.... I did a quick search of the internet for this subject and found MANY folks that had their TB break before 105K miles.... I would suspect there is a class-action suit on the way :surprise:
HOWEVER: I beleive that VW also speced an interval for the TB to be inspected at 40K and 80K.... If you cannot prove that your TB was inspected at the proper intervals, you may be SOL on this one.
http://www.vw.com/dealer/MaintenanceSchedulesQuery.do?year=2003&engineCode=1.8T&- carModel=JETTA&TEMPLATENAME=maintenanceComplete&output=print
My wife has a 2000 VW Jetta with about 140,000KM on it. Recently, the heater doesn't seem to get hot at all. Sometimes it does (very rarely), but for the most part it just gets luke warm.
I understand this could be the cause of the thermostat not opening? Is this something that is easy to replace on these cars (seems nothing is!).
Could there be another issue?
Thanks!
Steve
From your description of the symptoms... it sounds as if you have one or more of the following;
1)Ice in the cooling system blocking coolant flow (highly unlikely)
2)Waterpump which is not moving the coolant as it should. (known to happen with the plastic waterpump impeller)
3)Thermostat which is acting up (Not likely because you were getting NO HEAT when the guage was at max)
4) Guage wrong (Again ...Not likely because you were getting NO HEAT when the guage was at max)
Yes it's #9 fuse in the fuse panel, a 20 amp.
I did some checking online and noticed there was a recall on 2005 Jettas for the brake master cylinder. This is a VW Certified car, purchased new and serviced where I bought it, and I would expect all of the recalls to have been taken care of... but maybe not? The car has about 20 warranties on it (well, not 20, but at least 4: original factory warranty through 1/15, 2-year VW Certified warranty after that, the dealer's own 30-day/1000 mile warranty, and an 8-year bumper-to-bumper warranty I got in order to avoid unexpected repair costs). So if there is a problem with the brakes other than normal wear/tear, it should be covered.
Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel? Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer?
I don't think that is correct about the master cylinder recall. There was a recall for the brake light switch. Do you know this for certain? My records don't show it at any rate but they may be incomplete.
Here is the recall info, from edmunds.com ("Maintenance, Recalls and TSBs" page for the 2005 Jetta GL):
Nature of Defect:
3. SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:MASTER CYLINDER
Recall Number: 07E023000
Dates Manufactured: N/A to N/A
Number of Vehicles Affected: 13128
Date Owners Notified On: N/A
Vehicle: 2005 Volkswagen Jetta
Defect Description:
CERTAIN CARDONE MASTER CYLINDERS WITH DATE CODES LOWER THAN DCA7078 SOLD AS REPLACEMENT EQUIPMENT FOR USE ON THE VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. THE SEAL ON MASTER CYLINDER CAN FAIL AND LEAK BRAKE FLUID.
Consequence of Defect:
LOSS OF BRAKE FLUID CAN RESULT IN POOR BRAKING PERFORMANCE, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.
Corrective Action:
CARDONE WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER TO REPURCHASE ANY DEFECTIVE MASTER CYLINDERS. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING APRIL 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT CARDONE AT 1-800-777-4780.
Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel?
VW brakes have always been firm and almost "touchy". Anything more than the pressue of my big toe would make the passengers lunge forward against their seatbelts. (I do know a guy with a Porsche that has better brakes than my Jetta - LOL)
Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer?
I would be concerned! The first thing to do is the have the brake-fluid replaced and the hydrolic system fully bled. Bleed the ABS pump and clutch too! (The clutch fluid is 'shared' with the brake master-cylinder) Use only DOT4 fluid in VW systems.
Are you aware that on ALL vehicles, brake fluid should be replaced every 2-3 years reguardless of miles? Your car is due for its SECOND brake-fluid change in 2009.
Just so you are aware of my experinece with VW brakes... I have been servicing the brakes on all of my personal vehicles for many-many years. (Because I do not trust most so-called mechanics.) I have owned VWs since my 1979 Scirocco. I replaced the brakes on 3 VWs this summer. (including using laptop computer to bleed the ABS pump and valving.)
Owner of a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0/4 CYL manual TRAN.
The check engine light has been on since a week after I bought it used. Many different codes, VW says its the computer. Don't have $1,000 to drop into it.
Last December it began to sputter and go through an ENTIRE tank of gas in 100 miles. or about 8 miles/GAL. Multiple misfires whenever I drove it. Replaced the 1 and 2 forward O2 Sensors and that cleared up the problem.
Now again, 1 year later the problem is back. It may very well be the O2 sensors and if it is, that is fine I accept that. But my question is, what it causing this? Why are the O2 sensors going bad after 10,000 miles? I run 87 octane in it and from what I've read that is fine, but willing to switch if it will help the vehicle.
I am receiving a P1128 code which points toward the mass air flow sensor, but that was replaced to no avail. Check engine light was still on. Thats when VW told me it was the computer.
I appreciate any help or ideas. Thanks!
Does it have a warranty?
If so get it replaced again.
If the code says MAF sensor then that is probably your problem.
This can cause bad MPG.
Misfiring of the engine.
As the fuel air ratio is not correct and the computer tries to compensate for bad information from the MAF sensor.
Check the wiring connections.
CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner.
Buy at an auto parts store.
My Autozone has them.
Spray that into the MAF sensor with the sensor off of the car.
Reinstall the MAF sensor.
Then run the car.
See if that clears up the issue first.
If it does then make sure your air filter is still good.
If cleaning does not help then buy an after market MAF sensor that has a warranty and if it goes bad again use the warranty.
Usually at Autozone it is a one year warranty.
This of course if for re-manufactured ones.
Only boneheaded mechanics who want to make $$ selling you parts will try to tell you that a "code" told them that a part was bad. Perhaps they do not want or know how to UNDERSTAND what the "code" is telling them.
Examples;
*)If a code says that the "MAF sensed too little airflow"... then you should check for air leaks. NOT replace the MAF.
*)If O2 sensors are telling you there is too much oxygen in the exhaust... then suspect plugged injectors or low fuelPressure.
To more specifically answer your question about O2 sensors going bad prematurly....An O2 sensor should last over 100,000 miles. Its life is shortend if your engine is buring oil or blowing antifreeze out the exhaust. That will contaminate the O2 sensors.
Lets use some LOGIC against your specific problem:
"P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean" This is NOT necessarrly related to the MAF because MAF does not measure 'leanness'.... the O2 sensors measure 'leanness'
Instead, This means that the O2 sensor is telling the computer that there is not enough fuel being sensed in the exhaust based on how much air the MAF is measuring. So, to compensate, the computer is injecting more and more fuel in an effort to satisfy the O2 sensor. The problem is that the O2 sensor is telling the computer the WRONG INFORMATION. Thus, you are burning way too much fuel.
I am surprised that your CEL is not *flashing* because running this rich can burn out your catalytic converter. Speaking of catalytic converter.... I am thinking that yours may already be burned up.
You should also check/replace all vacuum lines. A vacuum leak can cause this kind of problem and the vacuum lines are cheap and easy to repalce. Any air leaking into the system AFTER the MAF is not measured by the MAF... (but is getting into the engine)
One simple way to check for bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical connector from it and then start engine and drive for a few days. (This WILL lite the CEL) Check if the engine runs better without MAF connected.
Above, I have given you a start in how how to diagnose your problem... I will let you continue from here...