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Where is the whining noise coming from, and does it happen on all kinds of road surfaces (could be tire noise)?
I am wondering if they put something like engine honey in the transmission to muffle any problems. One of my friends recently got a car and this was done to it and the engine ran like crap until it warmed up and the 'engine honey' thinned out a little bit.
Well anyway sorry about my SOB story just needed to get a little steam off my chest.
just trying to figure out what comes next. I will probably drive the car how it is for a while. I will try and get the fluid and filter changed and that leak sealed to see if that helps at all. For now I just put the car in neutral when I am costing. I try not to let the car downshift a lot because that is there the problems seem to arise. Other than that it drives pretty well. I think I can keep the trans in good enough condition to save up for a beater car. Who knows we will see I will try and keep you updated.
Feel free to vent all you want.
What's next? You will have to source a transmission. Plenty of them out there on the net. Check out prices and warranty. Like the one I posted for you, the shipping was reasonable. Then you will have to find a shop that will put it in for you. For something this big, make the road trip to a shop that you feel good about doing the job.
What about taking your car to them to have the trans checked out? Road trip, I know but you could come away with a lot of good info.
Tracy
Your car is new. Have you taken it back to VW? Can you reproduced the metallic rattling with the A/C off? How about when you turn right?
Where do you think the whining noise is coming from? Under hood, IP, wheels.
Backy is right, I would check out the balance, as well as, the tires and rims. Drive shaft and/or wheel bearing can give you vibration and noise as well. But your car is very new.
Tracy
This seems like a pretty good price to me, and they will help me out a little more since they know my dad. However the place is like a 6 hour drive from here so I will have to drive the car as is for a little while until I get time to take it up there for however long it is going to take them to do all this work.
Bizarre.
Free at Autozone.
Loose or corroded connections on battery.
Loose belt on alternator.
Bad alternator.
Bad diodes in alternator.
Bad dashboard dimmer switch.
These are the things I would look at.
Might be other things that other people might come up with that is more specific to VW.
We took the car to a different mechanic and he replaced the plugs and wires. The car ran great for about 100 miles and then went totally haywire. The mechanic says that there are about 10 different codes in it now. If we can't get it running, I guess I'll have to have towed back home (yuck).
The P0606 code said a PCM processor fault. I'll have to try and narrow down the clicking.
It sounds like the ECU may be a good place to start.
Thanks again...
Mud
First, my automatic transmission makes a slight but percteptible thud as it downshhifts into first gear when I stop. I took it to VW service, and they told me that all the electronics on the transmission check out fine. They will not say if this "thud" is typical or not, or if it should be happening at all.
Anyone have experience with this '09 six speed automatic? What should I expect?
Second, on two occasions I have turned off the engine only to have the fan continue to run at high speed. In each casse, after waiting about three minutes, with fan still whirring, I re-started and shut down the engine and the fan stopped.
Is it normal for the fan to do this?
We had that happen a few times on our gas Jetta 2.5. Then we had CEL on with the code 2181 and there was some pretty extensive and expensive ($600-800, IIRC) repairing done (under warranty) to some cooling system sensor(s) and associated wiring harness(es). I figured the fan staying on was related to the failing parts that eventually set off the CEL. The fan has not done this again in the 6 months since the repair.
Grounds would definitely be a thing to check. You wouldn't think it would cause so much trouble, but they do. I'm not sure if the ECU is self grounding or not. If it is, you will have to clean up the contact points. It's probably the mounting bolts. Over the years they can corrode. If not, then it is grounded through a wire coming into the unit.
Check around for a shop (to include VW) that can check the ECU. The check would rule out or confirm the ECU is bad.
Tracy
Well, I'm off to try and figure out where the heck an ECU is on this car? This sounds silly (sorry), but can you take the ECU out of the car and take it somewhere to get checked? I would surely rather do that before I buy a new one.
Thanks again!
HOWEVER: I would not expect this to happen very often except in extremely hot weather or you did not allow the proper cooldown of the turbocharger.
REMINDER: With a turbocharged engine, it is ESSENTUAL that you allow engine to idle for awhile to circulate cooled oil thru the turbocharger before shutting off. This is especially true when you pull off highway traveling 65+ MPH into a "rest area". turbocharger can be RED HOT at that point!! If you do not allow idle-time for turbocharger to cool off, the bearings can 'cook' without flow of fresh oil for several minutes.
Personally, I always watch the clock and allow 2 full minutes of idle-time when I pull into rest-area before shutting down.
Do not forget... unlike some other turbocharged engines (Subaru).... the TDI turbocharger is OIL OOLED ONLY.. (not watercooled)
Do not forget that the ECU is covered by the Federal Emmissions Warantee which may be 100,000 miles on your 2002.
I cannot stress enough that yours is most likely a ground problem. A ground is perhaps the ONLY thing that can cause multiple - simoutainious errors. All the sensors that feed the ECU and all the outputs from the ECU rely on GROUND being solid and well-connected everywhere.
Personally, I remove and solder EVERY ground connection in my cars. I also file-clean to shiney metal every ground holddown point. Why do I do this? I am trained in electronics and know what a bad ground can do to a computer system in a car.
The other day all the coolant leaked out, I noticed this hose seems to be broken (see pics) where there was a connector or plastic piece of some kind between two clamps. Can someone please help me identify the part and let me know if I just replace it and fill er back up with coolant will everything be good to go? Thanks so much!
Images here: http://yfrog.com/11dsc03408vkejx
As for your problem - I am not familear enough with the 1.8T engine. I am sure any VW dealership would have diagrams of the components. (or a car on the lot you could look at)
To answer your question if everything will be OK.... I would say YES - provided that you did not drive without coolant in the engine.
IMPORTANT: You *must* use only G12 coolant in that engine. In fact, your last photo shows this fact on the resivour. (The icons mean READ THE MANUAL ans USE G12)
I'm pretty far away from the dealer so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and am hoping to order the piece. It just looks like a connector of some sort, perhaps so the whole hose doesn't have to be replaced? The connections on either end (one in the back of the engine, one up under the front) look like they might be a bit harder to replace...
Thanks for the tip on the G12. I was aware of that and won't use anything else. Thanks for the response!
Just ask for a hose connector for the right inside diameter of your hose.
Open the clamps pull out old plastic parts and then put in a new plastic part.
Should be real easy since you can get to it right off.
Looks as if someone before you had a hose that they cut and put in the connector.
They might have done this to flush the system.
You could use a t connector to allow access for a flush at a future time.
ALL automobiles should have the brake fluid changed every 2-3 years (milage does not matter at all).... lest corrosion will eat the hydrolic system from the inside-out. No vehicle is immune to this. The corrosion starts in the LOWEST parts of the system (calipers) and works up into ABS components and master-cylinder.
Dont be fooled by carmakers who do not recommend this change to happen. This has been discussed several times over in the "brakes" forums and the best conclustion I have seen is that some carmakers hope you will trade it in before all the brake-problems start to occour due to not channging the fluid regularly.
(Some specialized brake fluid may be colored blue to help with changing ...by looking for color-change when bleeding the brake-fluid.)
Anything I can do?
Sounds more like the fan motor or bearings have went bad. Unplug the wire harness from the fan motor. If you spin the fan and it gets hard after a few turns, it's probably not the switch or relay.
Warning.....The fans are always "live". Don't mess around with them when the fans are connected or if the battery isn't disconnected. The fans can come on without warning.
Tracy
I need your recomendations to what might be the problem and what do i need to check.
I feel it might be the spark plugs but the the symptoms are not visible when the car is still.
awaiting your feedback, thx
It's still under the full 4 year 50K mi warranty, isn't it? Wouldn't this repair (whatever it is) be covered by the warranty?
Thanks.
Essentually, there are 'must be replaced' bolts, pullies, tensionors, waterpump and even the seals for the crankshaft and camshaft. (many quality kits come with BRASS IMPELLER waterpump!)
I caved and had it towed to the dealership. They said my two year old battery was bad and needed to be replaced. They also needed to reset it once installed. Well, that was two weeks and $400 ago. So far it seems fine but I can't help but drive with some trepidation. I think it is too soon to tell as the problem was always intermittent. I will keep you posted if the problem returns. Keep your fingers crossed that this was it. Thanks for posting.
I do agree, stop worrying. Batteries don't last forever. Just smile and enjoy your Jetta.
Tracy