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also there's no oil pressure when the engine is not running, so even if the dashboard were reporting 'oil pressure low', that would be correct/no-worry.
if engine overheats, you can try use max-heat/max-fan to cool it (especially fun in summertime!)
cheers!
I have 2001 Jetta VR6. And I just found that I had coolant leaking problem.
When I checked it, I located the parts which is like the part shown in the link below:
http://www.bizrate.com/automotive-parts/oid726644457.html
Is it the water pump? Is it the only water pump in this model. Somebody said there possible one model has two different water pumps.
a 150HP engine is generating over 10,000 watts of power. This is not easy to duplicate with a small electric heater.
Any of the 'portable' heaters I have tried (plug into cig. lighter outlet) are pretty whimpy.
Looking at the numbers tells the story... Most of these outlets are fused at 20Amps.
12V X 20A = 240watts maximum. This is not a lot of heat when you need to remove ice from a windshield which is 10F outside.
Also, the intense localized heat from one of these can easilly crack a windshield if it blows directly on it.
Are you CERTAIN you cannot reach up under the dashboard and move that flapper to "heat" for the winter?
I recently bought a used Jetta 2000 model. It has run close 110,000 miles.
I want to know what regular servicing does this car require, and at what intervals.
Thanks
Ajay
The 2000s were known to consume some oil. This is NOT a problem as long as you keep it topped up so the oil-lite never comes on.
Timing Belt every 60K miles (including pullies and waterpump)
Change the Cabin Filter
clean the SnowScreen
How could have VW ignored this problem? I just don't get it!
Thanks for any feedback that any of you might have.
I am thinking this is too long. I would rather not wait that long. For me, I will have that next August and that would seem to long to be running on new car oil and not to have the tires rotated. I am assuming that I would be responsible for the services in between the paid program intervals? I will probably get it done around 5k give or take. Certainly not 10,000 miles. If it is every 10k, that is roughly only about 3-4 times for me, since I lease. That is not enough. Perhaps it is, but I wouldn't feel right.
Am I thinking correctly? lol
As for tire rotations, I don't think the interval matters much so I wouldn't worry about 10,000 miles. The only purpose of rotating is to equalize the wear.
Oil and filter changes are about $60-70 using synthetic oil. This is still cheap insurance to insure your engine is running with new fresh oil, and certainly not overly expensive.
It is your decision, but certainly changing the oil / filter more often is not a problem, and it gives me extra peace of mind that the engine should be getting the best care.
Bel Air Car Guy
I will still probably schedule an oil change and rotation at about 4k. This coming spring, it will be ready! Especially the tires being rotated. I have the SE and it has the Hankook tires. I am impressed with these tires, as they were on my 08 G6 and looked quite clean and great condition with 40k on them! Even my dealer stated they looked really good. I am not really hard on my cars though either.
Thanks to ASA for explaining the reason that this seems to occur on newer models.
I'm now curious if putting wind deflectors on the windows could help resolve this problem. Has anyone ever tried to get rid of this noise this way?
Considering that I get over 650 miles per tank of fuel, I think I am getting pretty good MPG.
for ventalation, use the sunroof. It is DESIGNED to be open at speed, has a buit-in wind-deflector which retracts at speed and allows plenty of ventalation.
My daughter's GLI has the driver side low beam HID out. It flickers when it comes on but won't stay illuminated (and doesn't come on after a while). I'm not sure if it is a ballast issue or a bad bulb. I want to swap the bulb from the passenger side to the driver side, but before I did that, I wanted to make sure how to put it in and take it out without breaking anything (it's been cold out and things are more brittle).
Is there a way to remove the entire assembly to make things easier?
ANY input would be appreciated!!!
-Paul
Great idea to remove the racks, but what is involved in doing this? Are there holes to fill, painting to be done? Is this a job for a body shop?
I recently had the transmission rebuilt and now there are some odd noises coming from it.
When i engage the clutch in the lower gears I hear a "woo woo" sound and on the highway at around 60 MPH or 27/28,000 RPM there is a steadier whine/ Howling type noise when if I take my foot off the accelerator. Does this sound like a bad rebuild or will the transmission need time to break in?
It is under warranty for a year so other than the time without my car I don't mind taking it back to be fixed. If it is a bad re-build will driving my car damage anything else or will damage be only in the transmission?
Thank-you for any responses.
On my Subaru, there are perminant "rails" running front-to-back. The parts I remove are the crossbars which run side-to-side. These come off with a screwdriver-like tool which I found in the glove-compartment.
I would not advocate removing anything perminantly mounted to the roof of your car... but some of the crossbars are removable and can improve econmey by 1 or 2 MPG.
I wouldn't buy it without having it checked out. It would only cost $100 bucks or so to have someone look it over. If you buy a car for $2000 and it needs tires, motor mounts and an axle boot, (for example) it wasn't a $2000 car after all.
*)Does this same "veerng" to the left also happen when you let off the throttle WITHOUT touching the clutch?
*)Does this same "veerng" to the left happen when you hit the brakes?
I am asking these specific questions because I once had a VW that would "veer" slightly to one direction when I lifted off the throttle and then "veer" the other direction when I applied the throttle again.
This turned out to be a 'sloppy' tie-rod-end which was allowing one of the front wheels to steer itself slightly based on weather it was pulling (accellerating) or pushing (decellerating).
You'll need a flywheel locking tool or equivalent (tool # 3067).
A clutch disk alignment (centering) tool # 3190A
If you remove the flywheel, you'll need new flywheel bolts
To remove the transaxle, you 'll need some kind of engine support bridge to hold the engine up temporarily.
Also, you'll need a transmission jack
I presume your mechanic has done this job before?
Next, figure out where the coolant is coming from. It should not be very difficult with such a large leak.
Finally, lets not forget VW *REQUIRES* special antifreeze. (substitutions are not a good idea because incompatibilities may cause gelling)
Obviously driving it AT ALL is asking for $$ problems like warped head.
I went to a body shop and they said it is definitely rust coming through the paint. The paint thickness measures 4.9 mils.
I can see this being a major headache to fight VW on this claim. I have read where VW Customer Service is pretty bad. The service advisor is already giving me the run around. This is the last VW I buy, I'm switching back to Japanese (Subaru, Honda, Toyota).
Could be a bad speaker, or speaker wire.
Try to isolate where the buzzing is coming from and re-post.
vibration through the stick shift and the clutch petal. This was only felt at idle and generally when the car is in neutral. The feeling was like something slapping the transmission from the (freewheeling) side of the engine. It was definite but not consistent. Increasing rpms did not change the frequency or increase the amount of noise or feel, on the contrary, at about 1000 to 1100 rpms it would go away and run smooth without any slapping, noise or vibration. Likewise with this, you could feel a higher frequency vibration threw the clutch even at higher rpms when you would run the gears. This feeling was bad enough to be noticed by my wife as unusual and lead her to avoid the car. The last noticeable thing about this was the sound coming from the exhaust, while running the gears (worse at higher [3000+] rpms) was like a hole in the muffler or exhaust pipe.
My local mechanic couldn't find a solution and shortly before I was to take to the dealer, something really strange happened. It all stopped, no problems, no vibration, exhaust sounds, all normal.
This lasted about 2000 miles and than slowly started coming back, not so much the slapping on the stick but the rest and another noticed charismatic of this problem, when you are in any (higher) gear, while cruising, if you let off the throttle you can feel a noticeable thunk through the power train. Its somethings worst than others and can be "managed" to either make it worse or smoother depending on how you manage the throttle and whether you are accelerating hard or decelerating. One other thing, when coming off the clutch, one can sometimes notice a feeling of the clutch petal not releasing cleanly, it feels like it pops off the foot near the top of its travel. Not always noticed, but sometimes.
Having said all this, the problem is again (!!!!) either (temporary) gone or diminished.
I would be grateful if anyone has had this problem correctly diagnosed or a mechanic who was worked on this or a similar problem.