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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2011
    1) Drive a manual xMission (they get better MPG and rarely fail)
    2) Seek another mechanic (Get at least 3 estimates before spending $$)

    BTW: On a 2002 you should have expected to have some suspension work.... but $2000 is OUTRAGEOUS. I had the suspension replaced on all 4 corners of my 2003 Jetta for under $500. ( http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_63&products_id=1148)
  • fordnutsfordnuts Member Posts: 19
    Replace the electronic door mechanism in driver's door. Had a draw on battery..tried everything and then found out to replace that and it worked. No more constant draw. ;)
  • fordnutsfordnuts Member Posts: 19
    Nobody has had to replace the trunk mechanism in a VW (Jetta '02)???. Talk about an overcomplicated device. The electronic latch by driver's door works...you here it activate a mecahnism in the trunk, however, the trunk would not open. Took all the screws off the carpeted door frame in the trunk and found out the one plastic piece that releases the latchwas broken. And it can't be glued back together.. too much stress is imparted on the this piece. I'll be calling VW to see how much it to replace, very doubful they just replace the single plastic piece, we'll see.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Yup - sometimes, due to cost to repair, you may opt to just use the key in the trunk to open it.... or are you suggesting that the key does not work either?
  • jcroylejcroyle Member Posts: 2
  • jcroylejcroyle Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 jetta 2.0l 5sp. It has 240k miles on it. Recently it has begun stalling while driving. This happens at any speed. It will surge a few times before the engine cuts out. It will not restart for about 2-3 minutes later. Now it may run for another 30 miles just fine, or it might do it again in 2-3 more miles.

    Things I have done:
    replaced fuel filter
    replaced timing belt
    replaced MAF
    replaced cam position sensor
    plugs and wires are only one year old.

    The dealer has no idea why it is doing this......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Almost sounds as if engine is starving for fuel. Have you considered the fuel-filter or fuel-pump?

    I believe there is a "diagnostic test" that can be done which entails removing the fuel-feed line from engine and sticking in coffee-can. Then jumper the socket for the fuel-pump-relay to force the fuel-pump to run.

    As I recall, there is a specification which says how much fuel should be in the can after so many seconds.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Try seeing if the ignition coil is causing intermittent spark?
    If it is bad and gets overheated then it may fail to give the right voltage.

    Normally when Jetta coils go they just quit all together.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Actually, the CEL will lite up if ignitor is failing to fire the sparkplugs. I am not sure the original Poster mentioned that ANY lites were on the dashboard... hence we have to assume the ignitor is not the issue.
  • spenseroneillspenseroneill Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like the O2 sensor is bad..... I have had cars putter and stall on me because of a dirty or failing O2 sensor
  • luvmy01jettaluvmy01jetta Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta and the interior ceiling is coming down. Any suggestions on how to repair it? Also the material around the door is coming a loose..HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    These are molded one-piece headliners, so it's hard to know what your problem is exactly. Maybe a clip broke or something? You'd best check in with an upholstery shop unless you can post us a photo of what's going on.
  • sbellahsbellah Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    I have a 2002 Jetta, GLS 1.8 T., 145,000 miles. About a week ago, the coolant light (flashing thermostat) came on the dash. Checked the "globe" coolant tank, it was empty. I bought 50/50 coolant (NOT the red colored VW coolant) and added to the full line. About 24 hours later, light came on again, coolant was completely empty. Kept adding coolant for about 3 days until the oil pressure light (flashing oil can) came on with the coolant light and the thermostat maxed out to 260+.

    I found that there were two separate hose pieces that were connected near the radiator (why not ONE single hose?) that had broken apart. Coolant was simply spilling out like a garden hose. Was able to connect them back together, added coolant, but still seeing light come on. No noticable leak anywhere, nothing pooling under car. The reservoir will still be completely empty after 10 minutes of driving. I can hear a rushing/flushing sound under the hood when I turn off the engine, near the radiator-like when a washing machine drains.

    Is the car just starving for coolant after not getting any due to the broken hose? How much coolant should it take to properly cool the radiator/engine? I've been told it may be the water pump. Again, with no coolant visibly leaking, where does it go? I'm seeing the same behavior as before, but thought that re-connecting two obviously separated hoses would do the trick. Not so far. I've only driven the car once since connecting the hoses, for about 10 minutes. I don't want to overfill with coolant, but I also don't want the engine to overheat and seize. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think if I were you I'd get the cooling system pressure tested. This will tell if there are any leaks and also might help identify head gasket problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Mixing ANYTHING with VW G12 coolant is a bad idea. (I realize you were in a bind but distilled water would have been a better choice.)

    Now that it has been 'mixed' consider a tottal R&R of your coolant....Lest, you may get 'gelling' and plugging-up of the cooling system.

    The sound you hear under the hood after turning off the engine is BOILING ANTIFREEZE... this a a bad thing. Do not drive until you have this under control.... Lest you risk warping the head and causing serious trouble.

    For now, if you cannot obtain G12 antifreeze, get a case of distilled water and carry it in the trunk.

    Here is a URL which helps explain G12 antifreeze
  • cody818cody818 Member Posts: 1
    There is no score/ mark in the top pulley to line up. Has anybody come across this issue before? :mad:
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    OK so I have a 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 5sp Manual and I am having some serious issues. I bought the car and it had problems with the cat converter. Had it replaced last winter. Had new o2 sensor, plugs and cables 2 yrs ago. check engine light on until cat replacement then shortly after went on again. Took it back said it was something to do with my idle. I planed on bringing it back as soon as I had the cash but it went off again. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, car ran very low on gas, only had a few dollars to put in but it should have gotten my light off. My gas light stayed on and it was reading over a quarter tank and chugging a bit, idling, running rough. The light should have been off at the point the lever was reading. i went to get some fuel cleaner thinking I had a clog or something but before I got to the station to fill it up it kinda chugged once hard and all resumed normal. Light off not running rough. A few days ago my check engine light came on again. Since then it is getting worse, have to push more on accelerator taking of or it feels like it is going to die, intermittent chugging at steady speed, idling ROUGH, and yesterday the check engine light started blinking at me!!! It is not consistant though, it is off sometimes, solid sometimes, and blinks sometimes. I stopped by a shop and they ran the codes and here is what I got. I have NO idea where to start.
    17990 idle adaptation limit reached P1582 intermittent problem ecm. 0134 Engine control module defect intermittent, 16684 random missfire, 1687 cylinder #3 missfire, 17988 throttle actuator bank 1 malfunction intermittent, 17708 missfire detected possibly low fuel P1300 intermittent, 16686 cylinder #2 missfire.
    My car has a salvage title. it was wrecked and rebuilt the yr it was new. it has an interior leak that comes through the right front wheel well area. the carpet is gone and the electric controls on that side of the car do not work. seat heater, defrost. My temp gauge sits at bottom level but once in awhile, like now, moves to middle 190 point. never hot and does not move high to low and such. I get 28-29 MPG. My car just turned to 140k miles. The shop said it may be a computer issue and I need to replace it first. I am afraid my car will blow up or something. I can not see anything when I visual my engine. It is clean and nothing apparent. I am mechanically inclined but I am now preg so no fixing anything with fluids or fumes. I need any help possible of things I can try and do for myself. I have the Chilton book on it too if that would be of help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited October 2011
    You mention several unrelated issues. I will try to give you some help

    1) That year of VW was *known* to have a bad temperature-sender. Simply replace it with one of the upgraded (green) ones. (less than $20 part) On the 2L engine, I have replaced the temp-sensor in the dark with my daughter holding a flashlight. (it is that simple)

    Here is link to new sensor, O-ring and clip for your engine.

    Since a faulty temp-sender could cause ALL KINDS of goofy problems and errors, I would absolutely get it replaced before doing anything else.

    2) Remove/clean all ground connections. With all those goofy, unrelated errors, the only obvious answer is the ECU is not getting a solid ground. (or +12)

    Explanation: If the ECU (Engine Computer) gets bad signal from the engine-temp sensor, then the ECU may make bad 'decisions' about how to control the engine. For example, if the ECU 'thinks' the engine is cold when it is really warmed up, then too much fuel may be injected and the idle-speed will be incorrect.
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    Goodness I hope you're right! I had to drive my daughters 94 white and purple geo tracker today, aka the barbie jeep, and felt like I was driving a box! I miss my car! I appreciate the help :-)
    Oh and GREAT site! I found a new window kit for so much less than the dealer wanted :-)
  • jj09jj09 Member Posts: 1
    i had a problem in my 02 vw jetta 1.8t jolting and lights coming on... they are on the right track... you should check if you need a crank position sensor... if the car jolts and it feels like your not getting enough power to your engine and the epc light along with other check llights comes on that should be the prob and those other codes you could awlays google it and something should come up
  • steven64steven64 Member Posts: 3
    Good Afternoon,

    I have a motor drop issue and not sure how it happened.
    Please read this letter.

    My Jetta TDI has only 131678.0 miles on it.
    This TDI for the past 11 years has had every oil change, sessional tire change & rotation and VW parts replaced by a VW Authorized Service Technician.

    I just had it in for service, oil change with filter, new fuel filter. new ball joint on front right side and two days later driving home my engine falls out of the car and drags on the ground!
    I phoned my VW dealer and expressed my concern, they said bring it in and we will look at it. Then the manager sends me an email and in his email is written:

    "Looking at the photo’s it seems like a motor mount has broken? We have seen this before with TDI’s. The side mount by the timing belt can snap, or the bolt can break which causes the motor to fall…."

    Since this happens with the TDI, why didn't I or the other TDI owners receive a
    VW ALERT about motor mount failure?

    If VW put in a faulty taillight bulb that may cause a potential fire there would have been an alert but not if you have bad motor mounts that may cause your engine to fall out and put you or someone else at risk of being hurt!

    When I went to my VW Dealer for a service a few days ago and my VIN number was keyed in, why wasn't there an ALERT notification telling the service department that this TDI needs to have its motor mounts checked?? If it did have an alert my engine would not have fallen to the ground while on the highway which could have caused a serious accident but luckily no accident. Otherwise, I would not be sitting here this morning writing this letter and looking out my living room window at my VW Jetta TDIs motor sitting on the ground.

    "Would you like to buy a new VW TDI they are a great looking car but be aware the motor mount may break and the engine may fall to the ground"

    steven63

    http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g417/Absnitch/VWEngineDropNov42011791.jpg
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure if this is your problem or not... but I will mention it here for your information.

    When the Timing Belt (TB) is replaced on TDI engine, one of the motor-mount bolts MUST be removed to access the belt.

    The factory shop manual *SPECIFIES* that the motor-mount bolt MUST BE REPLACED anytime it is removed. This is because it is a TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt which stretches when it is installed. Once stretched, if it is reused, it may snap off. (later down the road at some unexpected time)

    There are documented cases where a TDI owner has TB replaced and the mechanic re-uses the motorMount bolt.... at a later time, the bolt snaps and the engine falls out from under the vehicle.

    My suggestion to you... get your hands on the original receipt when your TB was replaced. If it does not specify that they REPLACED the motor-mount bolt (by evidence of charging your for new bolt).... then you may have a case against that service-provider which replaced your TB.
  • fordnutsfordnuts Member Posts: 19
    I'm replying to my own post. I was able to replace the door latch mechanism and VW did sell it seperately at around $60. It is easy to replace yourself. About 20 minutes and includes taking the 20 screws on and off the carpeted trunk door.
  • fordnutsfordnuts Member Posts: 19
    Replace the coil pack. AutoZone sells the part for $90 to $120 and is cheaper than dealer price. The Coilpack is held in by 3 screws. Disconnect battery then remove the spark plugs noting which order they were removed to match up with new coil. One of the 3 screws of CP is a little tough to remove, but in 15 minutes it completed. Reconnect plugs, battery and start car and drive with a smoother running car.
  • fordnutsfordnuts Member Posts: 19
    Correction to post 6559. Coil pack sold for $201 + tax, a BWD brand, at Autozone. Order on-line and save a little more if you can wait for it to be shipped.
  • steven64steven64 Member Posts: 3
    2012 Golf TDI Wagon or a 5-Door

    Good Morning,

    I am thinking of purchasing a new 2012 VW Golf TDI Wagon or a 5-Door in either the Comfortline or Highline.
    Has anyone on this forum purchased either of these two VW Golfs? What are your thoughts on these two models?

    Thank you.

    steven63
  • raggzraggz Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    Did you ever find the solution to your problem? Cuz my sons Jetta is doing the exact same thing.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    OK you Jetta geniuses, hope you can help me with this. My Pastor has a '95 Jetta 2.0. It was given to the family nearly 3 years ago and now his teenage daughter drives it. He put a lot of $$$ in it in 2011, most notable another engine because the timing belt went on his old one and lunched the motor. Since this was done and a few other minor things taken care of, he was telling me yesterday that when his daughter went to go somewhere the other day, the car started spewing oil like crazy. Naturally, she didn't notice it right away(Do teenagers notice ANYTHING? LOL) There was a trail of oil down the street, and then she told him the car shut down. I think is because there MAY be a sensor or switch(Low oil pressure cutoff switch??) that will shut down the engine before it seizes up, yes??

    Anyway, I was at his home yesterday and had a chance to look at the car. There was no oil on the dipstick when I pulled it out, so he went and found some and put it in. I told him to start the car and oil starts gushing out of the TOP of the filter housing, right where the round part sits on top of the square part. I see that there is a water connection to this square piece, but the oil was definately coming out underneath this round seam. Now is this a faulty gasket issue? I got one from a local parts supplier and it's called the Oil Filter Bracket Gasket. On top of this round piece of the filter housing, there are 2 metric allen screws and I THINK one is further back near where it attaches onto the engine block. The shape of this gasket has me thinking that this belongs where the filter bracket is attached onto the block. If this is true, then I have the wrong part, because the oil is coming out around this rounded part sitting directly on top. Any help any of you can give me on this issue will be deeply appreciated and a very Happy New Year to you all.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    On many VW engines, the oil-filter screws into the "heat-exchanger". This "heat-exchanger" has antifreeze flowing thru it to help cool the oil. (and heat the oil to the same temp as the antifreeze)

    From your description, it sounds as if the O-ring between the "heat-exchanger" and the engine has started to leak.

    Personally, any vehicle which was ingored/disregarded to the point of allowing the timingbelt to break may be suspect for additional problems stemming from a ignorant owner.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    bpeebles, thank you for responding to this problem on my friend's '95 VW Jetta. I had a feeling that this was an O-ring issue and NOT the gasket I got yesterday from the parts store. This gasket HAS to be the one between the block and the filter housing, in back of the sending unit. It makes more sense that there would be a bad O-ring that's causing the oil to gush out right above this heat exchanger. I shall address this when I meet with him tomorrow and see if we can solve this problem. While I do thank you for this info, I must take exception to your use of the term "ignorant owner"! This man is a church pastor and I said he was given the Jetta almost 3 years ago and the car ran well up till the day when the timing belt snapped. The engine had about 150k on it at that time. His wife used it earlier in the day and said she had no problems when she was driving it. When he tried to start it the next morning, it cranked over without starting. He knew his battery was bad, and thinking this might be the problem, put a new one in. When I got to his home and heard the engine turn over, my next move was to pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor was turning. Of course it was not, and then I knew what had happened. I realize that if the proper timing belt change interval had been followed, perhaps this could have been avoided. Perhaps you might in the future try to use your words more wisely. Things sometimes just happen, and it's not at all due to being an "ignorant owner"!!
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    edited January 2012
    As a pastor myself the word was used correctly.
    It may have had bad feelings behind it but it also may not have had any malice behind it.

    ignorant
    [ig-ner-uhnt]
      Origin
    ig·no·rant
     
     [ig-ner-uhnt] Show IPA
    adjective
    1.
    lacking in knowledge or training; unlearned: an ignorant man.
    2.
    lacking knowledge or information as to a particular subject or fact: ignorant of quantum physics.
    3.
    uninformed; unaware.
    4.
    due to or showing lack of knowledge or training: an ignorant statement.
    Origin:
    1325&#150;75; Middle English ignora ( u ) nt < Latin ignōrant- (stem of ignōrāns ), present participle of ignōrāre to ignore; see -ant

    To be uninformed of the timing belt change interval can be considered ignorant of facts. see definition number 2

    Sorry to get in the middle of your transaction but as a minister I could not let this go.

    Blessings.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Thank you [revmarket] ... I meant EXACTLY what the word ignorant means..... Lacking the knowledge that the Timing belt should have been changed BEFORE it broke. I see no malice in that.

    That ignorant owner was VERY lucky the TB did not snap whilst driving. The engine would have instantly become suitable for a boat-anchor or a doorstop.

    Volkswagen engines are so tight that a broken TB can leave some valves open such that the pistons will hit them.... the inside of the engine becomes trashed.

    In fact, it is possible that engine DOES have some internal damage... was the head pulled off and the pistons/valves inspected. (or use a scope thru the sparkplug holes.)
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    It certainly wasn't my intent to get involved in a war of words over seeking help with this '95 Jetta. If I've offended anyone, I stand corrected and offer my humble apologies. At any rate, it may very well be that my repair efforts to correct the oil leak issue above the heat exchanger was moot at best. We started to access the O ring on Saturday morning, removing the oil filter, disconnecting what I believed to be the inlet water hose and then removing the retaining nut from the threaded filter pipe. This action allowed us to remove the heat exchanger and when we did, there was the original O ring in 3 pieces. We put the new O ring on, reversed our procedures, and then filled the oil to the correct level. We also had to add some antifreeze as some leaked out.

    The bottom line is that I didn't like the way the engine sounded last Wednesday when I first was asked to look at the car and upon my friend starting it then, saw where the leak was. I wondered aloud if the engine wasn't already damaged because practically all the oil was gone then. It didn't sound any better to me on Saturday after the O ring change. The leak was gone, but the engine sounded terrible. We went for a ride because it was low on gas, got some and he took it on the highway near his home and we went for about a 12 mile ride altogether. Then the oil pressure light came on and a tone went off, but the car WAS running and we didn't see a trail of oil anywhere. We stopped, shut the car down and rechecked the oil level and it was fine. There were no leaks of any kind. We started for his home, and were about a mile away and the oil light and tone came back again. I wasn't having a good feeling. Some hours later his daughter was taking her 2 younger brothers out for a treat at an ice cream store. She never made it. She was about 2 miles from her destination when she claimed she thought the car was on FIRE! She managed to get the car off the highway at an off ramp. Lo and behold, the guy behind her confirmed he saw flames coming from underneath the car and he was a fireman/EMT. She got her brothers out of the car quickly, but there was only a lot of smoke and no fire. A local towing service towed the car to their lot, which is only about 2 miles from my home. I went there today to see the car and expected to find evidence of a fire, but that engine compartment was fine. It was when I opened the door that I smelled what I believe to be the odor of an electrical fire, perhaps something melted, I can't be sure. It seems that at this point, the work her father and I did to fix the leak was totally unrelated to what happened later. I'm just thankful to God that these 3 got out of that car OK.

    Not sure what will happen to the car now, it may well be that proverbial boat anchor that you spoke of earlier. Sorry to be so long winded here, but I just wanted to tell you that your suggestion was spot on and I thank you again for that info.
  • johnbartonjohnbarton Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0L. The timing belt just broke on my Jetta. I drove to the store (no problems) when I came back out, I started it up, and it was running a little rough, and the check engine light came on. I turned the engine off, and then went to restart and it just spun. Towed it home and replaced T-belt. Now the engine is making a slight ticking noise that wasn't there before, and it seems to be idling a little rough. It sounds like it might have a bent valve. Could just turning it over with the stater have bent the valves?
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    As was stated in the previous reply, yes it could have damaged a little or a lot.
    Inspect the heads, and cylinders, and pistons, and valves for damage.
    Cranking the engine can cause all those parts to move.

    Is an 11 year old car worth a repair to the engine, or a new / used engine?
    Only you and the owner can make that determination.

    Praying all works well for the owner, the daughter and you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could do a compression test to see if one valve isn't seating just right.

    Also I don't know if your valves are adjustable--if so, that's worth a shot if compression is okay. Also check the spark plugs for damage.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    many of TDI geeks like me are admittedly IGNORANT of what it's like to own the newest VW TDIs but we are not IGNINT about VW diesels in general.
  • bkfinest006bkfinest006 Member Posts: 1
    hey, i'm thinking about buying a used 2000 Jetta vr6 with about 104k. I'm going to test drive it and take a look. I'm not a super expert at cars or anything. I was wondering is there anything to check for that this model has had problems with a lot? Like transmisson, or axles ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated =] !
  • ellefritzellefritz Member Posts: 3
  • ellefritzellefritz Member Posts: 3
    My daughter just went to school in Texas (I'm in Cal) and bought a 2007 Jetta; her sunroof is opening on it's own and the online consensus is a faulty switch. I've ordered a new one but don't want to pay for a repair manual for this one (simple?) repair. Looks like you pop the light lenses and take out two screws - easy peasy. Can anyone confirm? Is it harder than this? Am heading down there for a couple days and hope to do this as a present for her.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you have to remove the entire light assembly. If you can buy the switch then it is separate and replaceable. On some Jettas, you have to replace the entire assembly as the switch is not separated from the unit.
  • jshelvjshelv Member Posts: 2
    Hi battery light came on and then the car overheated and said I had no coolant. I checked and there is coolant in the car. When I turned the car off the fan continued to run for a few minutes and it looked like the coolant was boiling. Any suggestions on what the problem may be. Someone said transmission! UGH!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    transmission??? That's a novel suggestion. :P

    Well you'll have to let it cool down and then diagnose what happened.

    Overheating is a complex problem and can have many causes. Some of the more likely ones:

    stuck thermostat

    coolant leak

    head gasket

    water pump

    clogged radiator

    non working cooling fan

    collapsed radiator hoses
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Initially, I was going to say "fanbelt" ... because on some cars, both the alternator (battery light) and the waterpump (overheating) are driven by the same belt.

    Alas, on VW engine, the alternator is on the fanbelt and the waterpump is driven by the Timing belt.... so that aint it!

    HOWEVER: I *would* like to know how your VW "said it had no coolant" ... does it talk?
  • jshelvjshelv Member Posts: 2
    Haha ok it didn't "say" that I had no coolant but a warning message popped up on the dash that read 'no coolant". Thanks for the info guys!
  • alaska2azalaska2az Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 jetta. 2.0L 4 door Auto

    here is the problem..

    will start and idle. every time. but if you give it any gas at all it shudders and stalls. (in any gear)

    I have done minor matneince..
    spark, spark plugs, fuel, rotor button, ran codes (brings up #1 and #2 banks... and Purge Valve) checked valve and it seems to be fine.

    checked for vacuum leaks. change oil, fuel and made sure the fuel pump works..

    IM LOST and we all know we can go broke fixing all the little things but never find the big problem.
  • cartwrnacartwrna Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I just recently purchased a 2002 VW Jetta VR6 with the 2.0 AZG motor. To make a long story short I bought it and it shifted perfectly fine and had no lights on..about 5 hours after purchasing the car the CEL came on..I hooked it up and ran the codes and got two back. The first was P0420 and the second I cant recall off the top of my head but it said the ignition coil was bad and had to possibly do with cylinder 3. After the light came on and ever since the car seems to shift funny. At times it will shift smooth and at other times it will have a delayed shift going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Also if you gas it to much when it reaches around 5 to 5500 rpms it seems to possibly slip or have a very delayed shift. There are times also when you put it in drive it will seem to lurch forward but it is very tempermental and only does it at certain times..could these CEL&#146;s be the cause of this or am I looking at some very expensive transmission problems?? Any and all help is appreciated!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    How is it possible to have the "VR6" and at the same time have a 2.0L 4-cylinder engine???
    Which is it?
    Has the original VR6 engine been replaced with an AZG motor?

    If what you are telling us is true, then the engine is NOT the original for that car and you could have ALL KINDS of problems with it.

    Oh - and I am not so sure the VR6 xmission would mate-up to the AZG motor, so the xmisison may not be original either.

    I hope you did not pay very much for that frankenWagen.

    In any case, once you validate WHICH engine is in that thing, we may be able to assist with your problems. ... You may wish to also validate that the xmission is the correct one for that engine too.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    ummm - A 4-cylinder engine has only 1 "bank" of cylinders. Please tell us the specific codes which are failing and we may be able to assist further.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    exhaust/cat-conv may be plugged. also did you say O2 sensors/banks? don't trust them , be prepared to swap them if you haven't recently.
    to test exhaust/cat, disconnect the exhaust close to exhaust manifold and let her rip.
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