Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) are simply pointers and hints which help guide you to a problem. Unfortunately, some folks think the DTCs are telling you what needs to be replaced.
For example, a "misfire" DTC is flagged when the O2 sensor is sensing that there is too much unburned fuel in the exhaust system. It does NOT necessarily mean that a cylinder misfires... perhaps the O2 sensor is wrong... or a fuel-injector is squirting too much fuel. Applying simple logic to the issue will lead to the proper solution.
If you would please tell us specifically what DTCs are being flagged on your car (and which engine-code you have) we may be able to help point you in the right direction to a repair. Do not forget that the "mix" of DTCs you are seeing can combine to help lead to the solution.
TSB 69 11 01
February 17, 2011
Otherwise, the answer to your question is "no"--a scanner cannot usually identifying the EXACT part that is bad---it could very well be a sensor.
I have two or three problems with my 1991 GL diesel, which just turned over 204 000 mi. The problems might or might not be related. The last attempt at repairs treated them as three related problems. The problems:
1. fuel gauge functioned irregularly and erratically (indicating OK or ¿high? then low)
2. all the time, the coolant temp indicator indicates only barely "warmer" than the "cold" area
3. infrequently and irregularly, the oil pressure warning light and buzzer come on for no apparent reason; accelerate or rev the engine, and they stop. This happens when driving "straight-and-level" and at steady, "in-town" speeds. Checking the engine oil indicates that it's just fine on the dipstick.
What we did:
1. Oil system under pressure tested "good"
2. Replaced both senders or sensors for oil pressure
3. Field-expedient soldering by senior mechanic of circuit for fuel gauge
4. The instrument cluster tested "good," so its printed circuit board became suspect. Replacement circuit board was not found.
4. What _might_ have worked: Field-expedient wiring by master mechanic of three circuits might have repaired the problem with the fuel gauge. A few weeks' time will tell.
The problems with the coolant temp indicator and the oil pressure warning light and buzzer remain.
Before posting this, I saw in the forum the recommendation to test the oil system under pressure. I don't remember whether that was done.
About a year ago, I changed engine oil from Kendall-brand "straight" petroleum to Kendall-brand "synthetic blend." (I was told Kendall no longer makes "straight" petroleum oil for specification C.) I use 15W-40 during the Summer; 10W-30, Winter.
I find it hard to believe that synthetic-blend oil would contribute to the two remaining problems. I have no impression that, at operating temp, the engine is running so "cool" as to cause the coolant temp indicator to indicate temp that's only barely just above the "cold" area. I also can't imagine that synthetic-blend oil would cause the pressure sensors and such to malfunction.
While using "straight" petroleum oil, the oil pressure warning light came on perhaps five times in 15 years. Each time, it was while decelerating and turning right, as when on an exit ramp and decelerating from high speed. I was given to understand that this was because the oil in the pan sloshed away from the intake siphon when turning right at "high" speed. Didn't happen at "in-town" speeds.
I have two or three problems with my 1991 GL diesel, which just turned over 204 000 mi. The problems might or might not be related. The last attempt at repairs treated them as three related problems. The problems:
1. fuel gauge functioned irregularly and erratically (indicating OK or ¿high? then low)
2. all the time, the coolant temp indicator indicates only barely "warmer" than the "cold" area
3. infrequently and irregularly, the oil pressure warning light and buzzer come on for no apparent reason; accelerate or rev the engine, and they stop. This happens when driving "straight-and-level" and at steady, "in-town" speeds (40 mi per h to 45 mi per h). Checking the engine oil indicates that it's just fine on the dipstick.
What we did:
1. Oil system under pressure tested "good"
2. Replaced both senders or sensors for oil pressure
3. Field-expedient soldering by senior mechanic of circuit for fuel gauge
4. The instrument cluster tested "good," so its printed circuit board became suspect. Replacement circuit board was not found.
4. What _might_ have worked: Field-expedient wiring by master mechanic of three circuits might have repaired the problem with the fuel gauge. A few weeks' time will tell.
The problems with the coolant temp indicator and the oil pressure warning light and buzzer remain.
Before posting this, I saw in the forum the recommendation to test the oil system under pressure. I don't remember whether that was done.
About a year ago, I changed engine oil from Kendall-brand "straight" petroleum to Kendall-brand "synthetic blend." (I was told Kendall no longer makes "straight" petroleum oil for specification C.) I use 15W-40 during the Summer; 10W-30, Winter.
I find it hard to believe that synthetic-blend oil would contribute to the two remaining problems. I have no impression that, at operating temp, the engine is running so "cool" as to cause the coolant temp indicator to indicate temp that's only barely just above the "cold" area. I also can't imagine that synthetic-blend oil would cause the pressure sensors and such to malfunction.
While using "straight" petroleum oil, the oil pressure warning light came on perhaps five times in 15 years. Each time, it was while decelerating and turning right, as when on an exit ramp and decelerating from high speed. I was given to understand that this was because the oil in the pan sloshed away from the intake siphon when turning right at "high" speed. Didn't happen at "in-town" speeds.
Thanks.
I went to try and start the car again, and it started right up, perfectly. Sound clean, and drove smooth.
I bought a new timing belt and put it on, and now the car struggles to start up again, and when it is on, there is a LOUD knocking sound coming from the area of the belt. Also, the car and electronics feel like it has surges or energy. Lights dim, idle goes down, etc.
Keep in mind though, that when the belt was off, the car was fine.
What could this be?
The timing-belt is under a cover and not viable by just looking at the engine.
If your timing-belt had snapped, then your engine would likely be a suitable boat-anchor. (because the valves would have crashed into the pistons.)
---- Now - on to your question...
If it were mine, I would remove those 2 accessory drive-belts and try to MANUALLY spin each of the accessories. (alternator, power-steering pump, AC compressor...etc) If anything does not spin freely, then you found the problem.
many of the symptoms sound like they can be caused by flaky-ground-wire somewhere, or wildly varying voltage going above 14V or below 10V maybe. possibly the voltage regulator is flaky...
Also if not done already, check or replace the ground wire that goes from negative battery post to the negative post on the starter motor, or the ground to chassis wire from there. I suppose the master-mechanic dude must have checked that already though! are battery cables or either post heavily corroded? again, mechanic must have checked/fixed that already?
Thanks for your response. After my posting and with a planned road trip of about 1100 miles, I did have the oil pump replaced. In doing so, the oil was changed to 20W-50. I had had 15W-40 in for the Summer. I've been using 10W-30 for Winters. Since that time in the shop, the problem with oil pressure has stopped, and the pressure was fine throughout the trip. With more than 205 000 miles on the car now, I'm thinking of using higher-viscosity oils, both Summer and Winter.
For the malfunctioning gauge for engine coolant temperature, I plan to have the voltage checked the next time I have the car in the shop.
¡Thanks for your help!
I drive a little over 100 miles per day for work, so I drove the car out of warranty in a little over a year, although I don't use the door locks any more than anyone else. I've talked to my dealership about the locks and they pretty much just shrug at me and tell me how much new modules cost. I find this to be unacceptable since door latches are safety parts (of which I have reminded the dealer) but apparently Volkswagen doesnt' care about that.
At any rate, if anyone has figured out a way to fix these things without simply replacing them all, I would appreciate hearing about it.
This is true for ANY type of car with aluminum wheels.
If you have a manual, then I would say the clutch is slipping.
If you have an automatic, then the problem may be the xmission itself.
He would have had to be extremely abusive to burn out a perfectly good clutch--it can be done, but would require some pretty radical burnouts, etc.
So perhaps your clutch was worn---did you notice beforehand that the clutch grabbed only at the very top of the clutch pedal travel?
There's a small chance that some kind of adjustment might help this, but with all that slipping, there's been a fair amount of damage already to the clutch disk. and given that your clutch is hydraulic and not cable driven, there's not much to adjust.
Labor to replace a clutch is about 5 hours. Normally one installs a "clutch kit", which includes disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing--and any guide pins, etc that might be required. Have it done right--you don't want to go in there 2X.
spark plug densel: $2.99/ea
coils: $21.99/ea
connector $16.99/ea
Judging from your description.... I can only suggest that perhaps you are hearing the starter-moter spinning without engaging its gears. It would sound kinda like a 'whine' as the motor spins faster and faster with no load on it.
Part of my livelihood is 'figuring things out' (perhaps better described as a professional troubleshooter) Compared to the complex, worldwide software-systems I work on, an automobile is a very simple machine to me. Except, with softwre, I miss the hands-on of holding a piston in my hand to diagnose why it failed.
MANUAL
REMOVAL
Loosen the cable adjusting sleeve locknut and turn until tension is relieved in the cable. Remove all parts from the cable end beneath the clutch release lever and pull the cable end from the lever.
Unhook the cable from the top of the clutch pedal assembly and pull the cable through the firewall from the engine compartment side.
INSTALLATION
Install the clutch cable. Be sure to lubricate both ends of the cable with multi-purpose grease, then insert the cable end through the firewall and hook the cable onto the clutch pedal.
Position the rubber washer and rubber grommet properly.
CAUTION: Make sure that all rubber parts are installed correctly. If parts are not installed properly, the transaxle vent which is protected by the rubber washer could become clogged, causing oil to leak past the seals.
Insert clutch cable end through rubber grommet and the release lever. Attach all parts to the end of the cable.
SELF-ADJUSTING
This is more complicated and would require a guide with illustrations
Exhaust system --Leaks
Fuel injectors --clogged, dirty
Fuel pressure regulator and residual pressure
Fuel Pump (FP)
Intake system -- Checking intake system for leaks (false air)
Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system
Checking secondary air system for proper seal
Note: Check vacuum lines for leaks.
Is this the oil gauge light or the oil change reminder light?
An oil change reminder light usually needs to be reset.
The person doing the oil change should know how to and should do that reset
If it is the oil pressure light:
This light usually comes on because if there is not enough oil in the system to generate pressure it is sensed and lights up.
It is not usually set to come on just because of low oil.
So a bad or marginal oil pump might be the culprit if you just got an oil change and it is full.
Poor pressure can be because of extra wear in the channels where the oil must travel.
If the oil light was on when they did the oil change why was the vehicle not checked for correct oil pressure?
Some of these instant oil change places have no clue of why the oil light may come on?