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Comments
There is no better place to be than in Neyland Stadium on a chilly, sunny fall day with 107,000 fans going nuts. It is a surreal, dreamlike experience.
I just got a chill up my spine thinking about it.
It's good to meet another Tennesseean. The downside to living in Nashville is that the city is attracting a lot of LA entertainment types. I hope that the rest of the U.S. never discovers just how great this state is so that it won't turn it into another California.
Since your comfort level is what's important, Iwould advise that you stop by the oil site and read for a few days, even pose a question... Those guys over there are always helpful and will recommend an oil and a change interval for you, regerdless of whether you choose dino or synthetic.
The main reason most use blackstone is to help support them because they pay good advertising money to help support the bobistheoilguy board and they appear to do an excellent job. But as for choices, many oil companies do supply analysis.
Thanks!
It did very well. The new Supersyn will even perform better for you . I like that oil !
The 3800 will run many miles with either of those oils .
Not to argue , just an observation based on the much touted oil analysis some like to have done .
Look here at antimony pentoxide and other variances of antimony. It appears to be a solid additive much like moly disulphide. I would personally avoid any solid additives in a motor oil. They speak of actual micron sizes here .
http://www.usantimony.com/products/ant_oxide.html#vf
M1 is fine if synthetic is what you want.
My 2 cents.
However, it seems M1 0-40 is replacing 5W-40. What do I do??? I am intending to increase drain intervals gradually to 10,000 miles over the next 2-3 oil changes with intermittent top-offs as required. I live in the Dakotas. Your thoughts please......
And because of that it can improves engine performance/compression/mileage and reduces friction/exhaust emission/oil consumption. Does it make sense? Anyway I have tried with my 88 Corola (160,000 mile) and 98 Altima (90,000 mile), both work very good and I can tell big difference before and after.
Ray
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;- f=5;t=000830
It's just snake oil, similar to the comments on the linked page. If you want to ruin your engine, just go ahead.
Since I am going to do 3,000 mile oil changes, I prefer not to use 5-30 M1 (although with only a 3.5 liter crankcase capacity and no oil consumption, maybe M1 isn't an impossible choice in terms of cost).
My driving is mostly freeway, but a couple of times a month I'll do interstate runs of 200-400 miles at interstate speeds. I also have a stick shift and will occasionally run the engine up to 5,000 rpm or a tad under redline, and when driving on mountain grades downhill, will let the engine rev high so as to get the engine braking effect.
Sigh... I guess I'm going back to dino now.
Jack
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The Sandman :-)
Everyone else's opinion is just that, opinion. The question you need to answer is, what's the hurry or benefit of switching so soon?
I would think that the best time to use non-synthetic motor oils in an engine is during that nice clean period while it's new, assuming regular oil changes, of course.
Dusty
How is your engine worse off?
Thanks.
http://www.getahelmet.com/tech/syntheticoil.htm
Their original 5W30 IMO will never make 25,000 miles and still be servicable. The diesel 5W30 (can be used in gas engines), maybe but very doubtful as well. Most people doing the oil analysis rarely make 15,000 on a synthetic, too many factors make the oil too contaminated to continue (unless you have a bypass filter) like driving conditions, climate, well operating engine etc.) I personally cannot go beyond 12,000 miles without the oil being too contamnnated to lubricate properly and the wear metals get to the point of being too high for my comfort. I am afraid you bought into the Amsoil marketing hype on the 25,000 mile change and need to do an oil analysis ASAP to see what is going on with the oil. try a sample at say 12,000 miles as see what it looks like. I have been using Amsoil for over 10 years and a binder full of oil analysis results on my cars. Please do not take their hype for granted!
As to their foam air filter, the origianl (now they ahve a new version) has been proven in many small tests to actually not filter as well as the OEM paper filters in terms of keepin silicon/dirt out of the system. I will no longer use them and OEM have been the best for me in terms of reduced silicon in the oil analysis. The foam just doesn't work IMO and is too much of a hassle to clean and reoil
I am guessing you are probably talking of the V6 problem of coking in upper engine parts due to poor Toyota design?
So cutting to your chase, if I understand where it is leading(if not correct me) : 1. if Mobil One has a higher coking point than say the Toyota recommended oil, he is recommending the Toyota oil with the lower coking point? 2. He is recommending lower oil change intervals with lower coking point oil to compensate for a poor design?
If so, may I recommend the higher coking point oil Mobil One and if you have a concern about coking change it out more frequently?
For me this coking problem is a clear red flag.Specifically the V6 in older Siennas has been the issue. In fact,Toyota has had coking SLUDGE even when I had 1985 V4's Toyota Camry's.
Dusty
Kudos!
Finally, I found a website with reasonable prices on K&N oil filters so I bought three of them. After looking for these filters, my sense was that some e-retailers don't pay much attention to how their website functions. They could learn a lesson from Amazon.com! Have a great day!