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Help- 2009 Sonata ignition and steering wheel locked up
HI,
I have a 2009 Sonata Limited that is generally in fine working order. Tried to move it today after a snow and the key won't turn in the ignition, the steering wheel is locked up and can't shift it. We can unlock and lock the doors. Seems like an electrical problem? Any insights or suggestions?
See Also: How to unlock your Hyundai steering wheel
I have a 2009 Sonata Limited that is generally in fine working order. Tried to move it today after a snow and the key won't turn in the ignition, the steering wheel is locked up and can't shift it. We can unlock and lock the doors. Seems like an electrical problem? Any insights or suggestions?
See Also: How to unlock your Hyundai steering wheel
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I should mention one other cause for a problem like this, as it happened to me once. And was quite embarrassing. I went out to one of my cars (it was a Hyundai), put the key in the ignition, and it would not turn. The wheel was straight, not locked, so I could not figure out why the ignition would not turn. Finally I called Hyundai Roadside Assistance. While I was waiting for the tow truck, I noticed the key was not the key for that car! I quickly called Hyundai and told them to call off the service person. Yes, quite embarrassing. The funny thing was, this other key for a different brand of car fit into the ignition of the Hyundai.
I just saw your message. Are you the same Backy of white wagon fame on the VW vortex board years ago?
Earlier My friend turned the wheel all the way in one direction in order to turn the key but however strange it may sound the steering wheel got locked(expected) but the wheels were still pointing straight ahead (unexpected). It appeared that the wheels and steering wheel has no connection. There was absolutely no wiggle in the steering wheel and yes I tried yanking it pretty hard.
This is how I sorted the problem.
(1) there is a transmission lock notch next to the shifter. Open the tab and use a key or something to push it down and shift the car to neutral.
(2) push the car a bit. At this time I had a little wiggle in the steering wheel.
(3) disengage the steering wheel adjustment lever under the steering wheel. So that you can move the steering wheel up and down and back and forth.
(4) while moving the steering wheel up and down try turning the ignition key while keeping the brakes depressed.
At this stage my ignition turned normal and I was able to start the car.
Usually I set my steering wheel is at the lowest possible level -maybe this has something to do with the 'disengagement' of steering column to the rack and pinion.
Hope it helps somebody.
Ignition lock-up problems (usually the key won't turn) seem to be endemic to "newer cars". Ignition locks and keys are typically made out of brass (which is a soft metal), and bits of brass from you car key(s) can eventually start to clog up the ignition lock cylinder. I don't know why this (potentially lethal) problem is more prevalent in "newer cars, but the severity/cost of the problem is significantly exacerabated by the host of closely coupled security (aka. anti-theft) features in the newer cars. More specifically, the steering wheel will lock up if you try to turn the wheel when the car isn't started. The gear shift remains locked in park until you start the car. And in many cases, your car won't start unless the key contains a specially coded chip. If your newer-car's key locks up in a remote location, you will probably die.
The fix usually requires removing and cleaning (or else replacing) your "ignition lock cylinder" (the cylinder that you put your key into). Others have fixed their problem -- at least temporarily -- by replacing their old key with a new one (the dealer and some locksmiths can cut a new key based on your VIN number).
Removing/replacing your ignition lock cylinder is a fairly straightforward process -- but only if you can turn your key to the ACC position. So what do you do if your key won't turn? Well, the intent is to clear the "crud" from inside of your ignition lock cylinder that is stopping its tumblers from moving up and down freely. In most cases, the "fix" involves rotating your locked-up steering wheel to the extreme left or right position and then turning the key. Next, you can try clearing blockage with compressed air or by spraying WD40 into the the lock cylinder. Next, you can try tapping on the key with a hammer (while twisting the steering wheel). If that doesn't work, tap harder. Next (and this is the one that worked for me), use brute force and a pair of pliers to turn the key. See NO KEY remove and install ignition cylinder -1998 toyota camry - YouTube for an overview of your options.
If that doesn't work, then you have entered the realm of the pathological; and you should probably call a mobile locksmith who specializes in fixing key-doesn't-work problems. But desperate, poverty-strickened, DIYers may want to attempt more extreme fixes: (1) heating the lock cylinder with a hair dryer, (2) pounding a broad, flat-head screwdriver into their keyhole and twisting, (3) drilling out the spring-loaded pin that blocks you from removing the lock cylinder unless the key is in the ACC position, or (4) drilling out the lock cylinder.
A locksmith will probably want you to have a new ignition lock cylinder ready for him to install when he arrives. As of June 2021, you can buy one at AutoZone for $160. You can buy the exact-same part on Amazon for $80, or a budget-basement part on Ebay for $45. The new lock cylinder will come with a new set of keys (so you end up with two sets of car keys -- one for the ignition and another for everything else).
After you have successfully turned your key to the ACC position, removing/replacing the ignition lock cylinder is a fairly straightforward process. You will want to either (1) replace your old ignition lock cylinder with a new one or (2) clean and lube your old one. You should use a dry lube (ie. a PTFE-based lube -- teflon for example). WD40 may help to clean the crud out of your old cylinder, but it is not a dry lube. In fact, it isn't a lubricant at all. DIYers can disassemble, clean, and lube their ignition lock cylinder as shown at 2007 - 2010 Hyundai Sonata Ignition Disassembly and Rekey - YouTube.
You gain access to the lock cylinder by removing the panel below your steering wheel. This requires removing 4 phillips-head screws (2 on the bottom and 2 on the left side after popping off the fuse-cover panel). Remove the attached electrical connectors by pressing inward on their squeeze tabs. For improved access/visibility, you might also want to remove the plastic cowel from beneath the steering column. The cowel is held in place by 3 phillips-head screws. Unfortunately, these screws are deeply recessed. I ended up upside down peering upward into the recesses in order to see the screw heads, and cursing Hyundai's "engineers". Once you get the screws out, you can easily separate the top and bottom cowels by pressing inwards between them on either side. Disconnect your car's negative terminal (using a 10mm socket). Disconnect the wires to the ignition cylinder's illuminated bezel by pressing inwards from the left on the connector squeeze tab that is located at the 10 o-clock position. Place the key in the ACC position. Use a small allen wrench to press inwards on the spring-loaded pin located immediately in front of the bezel-wires' connector. The lock cylinder will slide in/out with little fuss. See Ignition lock cylinder replacement, Hyundai Sonata 2007 - YouTube.
Good luck.