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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
scsolara "Toyota Solara--Part 6" May 18, 2001 8:29am
My solara '00 Se v6 manual did this as well it was more of a loud click then a thump though as I remember. One of the other items that some people had been disscussing at one time was the fuel tank actually makeing a thunking noise. Mine never did that though.
I am getting a little oil in the middle and the bottom of the timing belt cover, and I think its coming from the camshaft end seal.
now 105k.
I doubt the seal was replaced at 60k - all up cost at dealer, inc belt was like $150 at the time in 1999.
http://www.motorvate.ca/
since there are probably 5x as many camrys as maximas, is there a similar site for Camrys?
elrlaw: Likely cause: Bad alignment. Solution: Take it to a workshop for a wheel alignment. About 60-80 dollars excluding any parts such as bent suspension components (if required).
I'm looking to buy a new 4 D sedan. As an older female I need a car I don't need to worry about (ha if that is possible !). AFter reading posts for the Camry, I'm wondering if this car is right for my situation? I'm getting rid of a minv van and looking at Camry, Accord, Taurus & Stratus/Sebring... any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.
1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?
2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said bolt on.
Thanks.
I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.
1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?
2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said bolt on.
Thanks.
I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.
1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?
2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said "bolt on" CV axles.
Thanks.
The dealer said its not the alingment. The tires are good.
The wierd thing is that i drove 3 used 2002's and a new 2003 and they all seem to do it.
I also find myself having to correct to the right a little. Its not something that happens when i brake.
I know it could be connected to the brakes in some way...has anyone experienced or heard of this being a problem with '02/'03 Camry Le's?
I used to have a Chrysler LeBaron that had the same problem. Even after having the wheel alignment service the problem remained. It turned out to be a defect in the rack and pinion. I don't know if that's the case with your Camry.
Another thought: does it happen all the time in all places? I drive a certain route where there's always a cross-wind from the right, which makes the car pull to the left.
Good luck!
Tony
i drove on all different roads because the dealer told me the highway in front of their place was uneven. (hmmmm)
I took the one I'm thinking of buying back to the dealer and made the service manager go for a ride. he said it shouldnt do that. there going to look into it tomorrow.
the dealer and salesman have been great dealer so far...they've gone pretty far to make sure i'm happy..and this is a used car.
I signed a contract on it to get 3.9% financing which ended 2/28, but its all contingent on me accepting the vehicle. And i'm holding a down payment check until its ok.
if anyone is in Delaware and looking for a good dealer..i'll let you know how this all goes. so far so good. they're giving me a loaner car tomorrow, which is cool.
Gool luck!
Tony
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jayme
Andre, sorry for not getting back to you sooner. It's month end around here and I don't know why but seems like everybody and their sister want to buy a car at the end of the month. I didn't get the TSB numbers but they do exist, I even saw the one for the "thunk in the trunk" most are very easy fixes, the thunk in the trunk and even some in the front are from the struts. The nut that goes over the struts were not tightened to specs according to the tsb. I'm sure if you bring this up to your service department they can look them up for you. Have them look in the TIS computer, they should know what you are talking about or in the Dealer Daily. If they ask how you know about these systems, just tell them you have connections with Toyota ; )
Mackabee
when we drew up the contract i had them write this on it...that i could back out of the deal unless I was satisfied it was ok. Assuming they fix it and tell me what was wrong and it makes sense to me, I'll add that also. thanks.
i have the balance of the 36 month warranty..and its certified (although i thought they were supposed to check these things!) and they added bumper to bumper to the certified warranty...so its covered with that until 2008.
other then that problem the car seems great...12k miles, clean. they said they got them thru toyota, who was leasing them on a one year program..i think around Washington DC. They have like 8 of them.
so far its been my best experience with a dealer. hopefully it continues.
everything in writing!! this thing will have to drive dead straight and they'll have to write down exatly what was wrong.
thanks
colleen
Since they're trying so hard to please you, you might as well tell them to install an in-dash 6-cup Coffee Maker hooked up to the cup holders!!! :-)
If you have a 36 month warranty, that will cover your car till 2006 not 2008. It should also mention the mileage (usually 36,000), whichever comes first. Please double check all the info before you accept the deal.
Let me know how things go.
Tony
dropped it off this morning and they gave me a loaner car. so far the dealer gets a 10...we'll see how it all plays out.
i'll try for the in-dash 6-cup Coffee Maker hooked up to the cup holders! ya never know!
thanks again
colleen
i'll try for the
Boots alone can be done separately of course.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
C'mon Toyota, let's get this brake stuff right!
The Sandman :-)
As far as Toyota brakes on the camry, car mags have been saying for years they were dissatisfied with the brake pedal feel (not confidence-inspiring), and yet when they got to instrumented testing, the car consistently performed better in emergency braking than some of its peers.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
On the brakes, I took my car to another dealership. They were nicer but still said that the performance is by design. They said they get complaints all the time about the four wheel disc ABS. I test drove a 2002 SE V6 with 5,000 miles and while the brakes were sill soft they did not go to the floor during a hard stop. My car still does. Nippononly, my wife was driving the car and was in an accident and the brakes went to the floor and did not perform well. When I have had to stop short a few times the brake performance has been bad.
No offense intended, and I am sorry your wife was in an accident.
Another thing that a lot of dealers do is put brake cleaner on the rotors to stop the brakes from squeaking,and they leave too much of it on there, so that when you drive away the brakes are next to useless for the first couple of dozen stops. You should go straight back to the dealer in this situation too.
Pedal to the floor situations indicate poorly bled brakes, or a defective wheel or master cylinder. In the case of defective cylinders, you will see the level of the fluid going down in the reservoir, so check it frequently.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
if the pedal went to the floor...or i had problems stopping or i got in an accident as a result of the pedal going to the floor, I'd have that car in the dealers front door and in the showroom demanding they fix it..and the accident damage. or i'd contact my states attorney general then a news agency.
colleen
Service rep says only Toyota can be used, Parts dept and technician say the green stuff is compatable not dexcool.
Does anyone know???????
But the regular stuff can be various colors depending on the coloring they put in, so you can put more red stuff in now. If you put in green without draining the red, it will not cause harm, but will change the color so that you cannot tell if rust has started (the mix will look rust color). So stick to the red if you have red in there now.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)